iwc yacht club

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Watch Collector’s Notebook — IWC’s original Yacht Club, an avant garde answer to the Datejust

One of my favorite vintage brands and one which I also feel is consistently undervalued is the International Watch Company of Schaffhausen, better known as simply IWC. Back in the day, every IWC watch had an in-house movement and their manual wind and automatic calibers were some of the best, most reliable and accurate machines on the market. With their bespoke Pelleton winding system , which was developed by  the marque’s famed technical director  Albert Pelleton in the early 1950s, IWC offered a solid alternative, if not also an implicit challenge, to Rolex’s longtime dominance of full rotor automatic  technology . IWC continued to develop their 85x auto calibers for nearly two decades until they reached what many experts consider the pinnacle with their legendary 8541B movement. And it is the 8541B that you find in IWC’s other implicit challenge to Rolex, the beautifully designed Yacht Club model.

Debuting right at the dawn of the funky 1970s when the Swiss watch industry would go somewhat design mad chasing rapidly changing tastes and fashions, the Yacht Club manages to be at once cutting edge and traditional. Making full use of the sweeping lines of the “C”-shape case, variations of which are also found in contemporaneous Omega Constellations and Heuer’s automatic Carrera, the Yacht Club’s heavy steel case is a perfectly proportioned 36mm X 44mm. That’s much bigger than the rather medium-sized C-shape Connie and obviously not as big as Heuer’s macho racing chronograph, so where it ends up is exactly in the same size bracket as Rolex’s evergreen, the Datejust. And that’s really the best analog and probably the exact watch IWC were gunning for. For if the Datejust was the icon of a never-changing design standard, the Yacht Club aimed to offer the same sort of elegance but with a bit of an avant garde twist for the modern man.

Hence the lugs sweep inward toward the bracelet rather than projecting out in a relatively straight line like the DJ, giving the dial extra prominence and pop. And what beautiful dials the Yacht Clubs had, from the classic beauty of starburst silver to moody, manly gray to my personal favorite, an astonishing blue that changes in hue ever so subtly depending on the angle at which its viewed. Note also the classy way the date discs are not one-size-fits-all for the colored dials but rather reverse printed with white numerals on the matching color background of the dial. Nice touch! The hands are luminous with black inlay and very easy to read and there is something that really appeals about the applied IWC logo of this period. I like it better than the earlier printed full script “International Watch Co.” alone and much more than the later boring printed block lettering, which still adorns their dials today.

The Yacht Club was also a departure for IWC in that prior to its introduction they produced only a few special models with a screw back case design, such as the anti-magnetic Ingenieur and the diver-centric Aquatimer. Clearly with its evocative, upscale name IWC felt it only right to give the Yacht Club the capabilities for excellent water resistance that a screwed back would provide. And if it doesn’t have the screw down Oyster-style crown of the Rolex Datejust, it nonetheless has a very water resistant and somewhat oversized push-in “Fish” crown. In fact, the original depth rating of the steel Yacht Club was 10 atm or 100 meters, certainly up to the capabilities of some sailing and rum & tonics by the pier afterwards . The inner case also incorporated a unique design to cushion the movement within for extra shock absorption above and beyond the standard Incabloc protection.

The Yacht Club was the forerunner of an entire line of “Club” watches that IWC planned to pitch to different aspects of the luxury set, and new models included the smallish, cushion-shaped Golf Club and the oversized, integrated bracelet Polo Club . Neither of these latter two models was successful, perhaps due to the beginning of the quartz onslaught or perhaps just because of their idiosyncratic designs. As a result, the Golf and especially the Polo are quite difficult to find today and command a premium, although I have a sneaking suspicion that they are more fun to hunt than to own and wear. Likewise, IWC later introduced an octagonal Yacht Club II with integrated bracelet. Almost always found with quartz movements, the Yacht Club II is another acquired taste to say the least, but the rare specimens with automatic movements are still quite sought after and pricey. It should be noted that by the time of the Yacht Club II, IWC had moved to outsource their movements as a cost saving measure rather than continue to produce them in-house, although they did often utilize excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauches before dropping down to ETA movements for even more economy later on.

Catalogue image of automatic Yacht Club II models, ca. late 1970s

But one of the joys of the original Yacht Club is that it’s not such a scarce watch and it’s also rather more universally appealing than those other quirky relatives. It also won’t cost you an arm and a leg, about the same as a classic plexi crystal Datejust in fact (the Yacht Club also features a high domed plastic crystal for that unmistakable vintage look and feel but without cyclops magnifier). Which is not say that finding one that ticks all the boxes is de facto easy. As always, original dial condition is paramount in my book and you can expect to pay a small premium for a gray or especially the blue dial (make sure those date discs match!). Next, look for an unpolished case if possible, one that displays sharp original edges and factory original satin finishing, as well as its still-distinct  slim integrated polished bezel.  Additionally, the back should hopefully still show the outer serial number on the edge, which can sometimes be polished out or even worn away with time (that said, the SN is also duplicated inside the back, so not a major deal breaker).

Almost as important as the first two priorities in my opinion is to find the watch on its original signed bracelet. There are a couple of variations — “rice” grain, Oyster-style, etc — but the Yacht Club, with its distinctly tapered and somewhat short lugs, looks best on its bracelet with the specific flush fit 18mm end pieces and rather less streamlined on a strap. If you’re looking at a Yacht Club sans bracelet you should be paying under $2k. Variations of the Yacht Club also include a no-date version, as well as solid gold examples, which will usually only be found on a strap and are usually $3k+. As you might expect, matching original box & papers will tend to add value and are a nice bonus for the collector although, as the old saying goes, you can’t wear ’em.

For me, the standard ref. 1811 Yacht Club with date in steel hits all the high notes. It’s got that fantastic hacking, semi-quickset 25-jewel 8541B caliber ticking away accurately beneath the substantial case. It makes a great change of pace from other steel dress watches, with just enough presence and sporty elan to make it work with jeans or a suit. And while the “C”-shape case is not everyone’s cup of tea, I really like the lines and the way it presents on the wrist. It’s unusual enough to catch the eye and a pleasure to read the time, as well as a refreshingly distinctive design. Dare I say that it’s my personal cure for Datejust fatigue?

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Hands-On Debut: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Collection Redesigned For 2020

The IWC Yacht Club was reintroduced 10 years ago now when it was revived as part of the Portugieser family. Now, as part of Watches & Wonders 2020 (online edition), IWC has given the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph its third facelift and has finally introduced a bracelet option for this “nautical sports watch” family. Of the three new models being introduced, two are done in steel, while the third is a two-tone steel and rose gold version.

With the new Yacht Club Chronograph collection, IWC is doing what great brands always do, and that is refine and iterate their products. The new case is actually slightly bigger than the existing model (which measures 43.5mm-wide and 14.1mm-thick) at 44.6mm-wide and 14.4mm-thick. However, the new filigreed bezel and flat casing ring that’s shared with the new Moon & Tide edition allows for a sleeker and more streamlined look, overall. Water resistance is the same, at 60M. Remember, it’s “yacht,” not “dive.”

The dial layout is a little different, with the IWC logo moved from 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock, the “Yacht Club” text moved from the 6 o’clock subdial to 9 o’clock, and the date window moved from 3 o’clock to now being housed within the 6 o’clock subdial. Notably, the date window now matches the either blue or silver dial of the watch. On the blue version of the outgoing model, the date window was done in white.

The chronograph hand is no longer red, rather it matches the hour and minute hands (which are the only to be lumed in the Portugieser family), done in rhodium, gold, or blued steel (the latter of which looks fantastic, in my opinion, as do the similarly blued hour markers against the silver dial). There is some red left, with the hacking seconds hand at the 6 o’clock subdial now adding that jolt of color. You’ll also notice the guilloché pattern on the running seconds subdial. The hour/minute counter at 12 o’clock remains largely the same.

As for the bracelets, these are quite similar to those found on the Ingenieur, though they are 22mm-wide, as opposed to 20mm. With alternating brushed end links and polished center links, IWC has finally successfully offered the Yacht Club on a bracelet. As much as I like a rubber strap, it always perplexed me why a bracelet wasn’t an option.

Through the exhibition caseback, you can see the unchanged 89361 calibre. This automatic flyback chronograph movement operates. at 28,800 vph and has a 68-hour power reserve.

Sportier and thoroughly more refined than the second-generation Portugieser Yacht Club, these three new watches are a welcome breath of fresh air to the collection. My personal favorite is the steel with silver dial, though the two-tone brings its own unique charm to the equation. It does come at a hefty premium over the other two, however. The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs in steel with blue dial (Ref. IW390701) and silver dial (Ref. IW390702) are each priced at $13,000 USD . The two-tone steel and gold IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. IW390703) is priced at $20,000 USD . You can learn more at iwc.com .

The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

For the first time, iwc schaffhausen relies on innovative silicon material in one of its manufacture movements..

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic . On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide . Now available in steel with an obsidian black dial, this sportier model debuts an updated movement featuring a silicon hairspring for the first time at IWC.

Originally presented in 2020, the gold Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduced a complication that could not be more appropriate for the nautical-themed “Yacht Club” sub-collection. The original, specific functionality of the model relies on two sub-counters linked to moon phases and tide calculations.  

The sub-dial at 6 o’clock displays the expected times for the next high and low tides. The interval between two high tides is consistently 12 hours and 24 minutes. After an initial calibration (via the crown) using tide tables for a specific location, the indicator remains highly accurate, with a deviation of only 10 minutes over 100 years.

The double moon phase display at 12 o’clock, featuring IWC’s signature double moon for both hemispheres, has been enhanced to indicate spring and neap tides. This provides valuable information about the tide’s strength. Spring tides, which bring particularly high water levels, occur during the full moon and new moon phases.

This new iteration of the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduces a more modern, sportier aesthetic to the model. Now crafted in steel, the case is still 44.6mm in diameter but is now water-resistant to 100m. The Obsidian Black dial is subtly enhanced with red and blue accents, adding a dynamic touch to the overall design.

One of the key upgrades is related to the movement powering these two complications. The new calibre 82836, an evolution of the 82835, marks IWC’s first use of a silicon hairspring. Operating at 4Hz, the balance is visible through the exhibition caseback. The automatic winding mechanism employs a Pellaton system, enhanced with virtually wear-free ceramic components, and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.

Although the brand hasn’t provided further details, this first model to feature a  silicon hairspring is likely not the last. While opinions on modern silicon hairsprings vary, this material offers undeniable technical advantages. This synthetic material is thermally stable, non-magnetic, lightweight, durable, and ideal for crafting hairsprings that outperform those made from traditional metal alloys. Silicon hairsprings have been around for about 20 years, initially restricted to a few brands by a patent held by CSEM as part of a collaboration between the Swatch Group, Patek Philippe, and Rolex (plus Ulysse Nardin). With the patent now expired, and despite new patents being filed, it was expected that more brands would start using silicon hairsprings. For more details, check out our article here .

The steel IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (reference IW344002) is presented on a stainless steel bracelet with brushed H-links and polished centre links. A pair of pushers release its folding buckle and features a fine-adjustment system. The price is set at CHF 22,000 .

For more information, please visit www.iwc.com .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Stainless Steel

2 responses.

Good luck with an almost 45mm watch in this day and age. 41-42mm would be much nicer in my very personal opinion and much closer to the sweet spot of 40-42mm for a sports or sporty watch. 13.4mm height is very good for the complications this watch offers!

Size and price aside, this watch looks GOOD.

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

A nautical theme to the extreme..

If you're going to make a watch line up dedicated to the yacht club – which IWC established as a subset of the Portugieser in 2010 – a tide-indicating complication only makes natural sense. (The name was first used, of course, in 1967, for a watch intended to be an all-weather but still club-elegant sports watch.) So, 10 years into the Yacht Club family line, IWC has just announced the new reference IW344001 Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. Presented in red gold with a shining blue dial and a matching blue rubber strap, this new Portugieser certainly looks the part while debuting IWC's newly developed tide-following complication. 

First things first, with a 44.6mm wide case, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is as large as it is pretty. The Yacht Club line has always done a good job of communicating a blend of both sport and elegance. While the use of a gold case on the Yacht Club Moon & Tide is decidedly foncy, the blue rubber strap does a nice job of striking a boat-ready balance. I especially like the red dial details, the clarity of the overall display, and the splash-ready 30 meters of water resistance. 

Using a newly-developed caliber 82835 manufacture movement, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide offers a brand new feature set that expands upon the dual hemisphere moon phase display that IWC has made strong use of with many of their perpetual calendar models. With a minimal addition of text surrounding the moon phase display, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide also notes the strength of the tides by making a differentiation between spring and neap tides. 

Combine that slight moon phase modification with a novel tide timing indication at six o'clock, and you've got a $34,000 IWC that can help you to better manage the ebb and flow of the tides. While not many of us need a watch that can offer such information, the complication feels both right at home within the Portugieser Yacht Club line up and a fittingly nautical way of saluting the Yacht Club on its 10th anniversary. 

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Reference Number: IW344001

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Applied, gold   Lume: Yes. Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap 

Caliber: 82835 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase for both hemispheres, and an indication of next high and low tide Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 22 

Price: $33,100 Availability: TBD

For more, click here.

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