teak deck sailboat

Everything You Need to Know About Your Boat's Teak Decking

Sep 24, 2021

There is a lot to love about teak.

Golden brown, long grain, fresh-cut teak bestows an unquestionable aesthetic elegance to any boat deck. But boat owners don’t just love teak for its looks.

TOUGHNESS AND DURABILITY

Teak is a naturally water-resistant wood from southeast Asia which has been hailed in its ability to beat many wood alternatives (like mahogany and pine) in terms of toughness and durability.

An abundance of silica in teak makes it so tough that it is known to quickly blunt the tools of expert craftsmen. Bad news for craftsmen, good news for boat owners.

Teak can withstand any weather it cruises through, and the same high silica content that dulls a tool’s edge bestows a non-skid surface that provides necessary traction on wet decks.

Teak’s high oil content also forestalls shrinking, expanding, and cracking, helping well-maintained teak decks last up to 40 years before replacement beckons.

HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR TEAK

Here’s how to best maintain teak decking on your yacht, without too much extra effort: 

Embrace Teak’s Color Changes

As teak is exposed to weather, it naturally takes on a silver-gray patina. But some boat owners prefer to luxuriate in the sun-kissed gold brown of fresh-cut teak.

Maintaining this hue long-term means using harsh brightening agents and committing to a regimen of extensive scrubbing, two things guaranteed to shorten the lifespan of your teak deck to fifteen years or less. 

You can lengthen your deck’s lifespan by falling in love with the silver patina it prefers and updating accents on your boat to match.

Cleaning Teak

Though teak’s grain is hard, the soft fibers between grains are easily damaged by hard scrubbing or too-strong cleaners.

To clean your teak deck, simply rinse regularly with fresh or saltwater. Use a mop or soft-bristle brush to wipe away tough dirt, but avoid high-pressure nozzles or washers that damage the wood’s top layer.

How often should I deep-clean my teak deck? Many boat owners will want to undertake a deeper clean one to four times a year (depending on location and wear).

• Most experts advise you to steer clear of two-step cleaning solutions and choose single-part wood cleansers and soaps to limit corrosion and maximize your teak deck’s longevity.
• If a single-part cleaner is not available, use a non abrasive, powdered dishwasher detergent (like Bon Ami or Calgon). Dilute 1/4 to 1/3rd cup of the detergent in 2.5 gallons of water before applying.
• With a mop or soft scrub brush, apply the single-part cleaner or powdered detergent solution to your deck. If using a scrub brush, use care to only scrub across the teak’s grain.
• For localized stains, put a drop or two of liquid dish detergent (like Joy) on a terry cloth and rub it into the stain gently. Give the area a thorough rinse before checking your fully clean teak.

Combating Mildew

When mildew inevitably appears on the grain of your teak, softly scrub the spot with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water.

Resisting the urge to use bleach will benefit your deck in the long run. However, if the urge proves too strong, mix 1 cup of bleach in 1/2 bucket of water and apply it to the areas in need. Thoroughly rinse the solution away before the decks dry.

Oiling Teak

Boat owners striving to maintain the warm gold of fresh-cut teak will often reach for teak oils (usually tung or linseed) to bring out their wood’s young shine.

Teak oil “feeds” the wood, brightening its grain patterns and intensifying its rich colors. Unfortunately, oiling teak is more about aesthetics than maintenance.

Teak oils do not protect the wood, and only bring back that young color for a month or two at a time. Some experts even claim that these oils catch and hold dirt, leading to blotchy, stained wood over time.

Sealing Teak

Teak sealers are a popular method of care among boat owners looking to achieve their teak’s natural look while extending their deck’s durability.

Rather than “feeding” the wood, sealers block against moisture and dirt while sealing in its natural oils and resins.

A good teak sealer only requires reapplication once a year, making it a more practical option for most boat owners with teak decking.

UNDERTAKING (AND AVOIDING) A MAJOR REFRESH OF YOUR TEAK

When teak decking is properly cared for throughout the year, boat owners can avoid a major refresh or teak restoration project.

However, all boat owners should keep a careful eye on their deck’s caulking and be quick to repair loose strips or gaps that allow water to quickly and destructively penetrate the teak.

Do not trust what you see at first glance. To fully check your boat deck for needed repairs, wet the deck fully and make note of any area that stays wet longer than the surrounding teak. These lingering wet patches give clues to where caulk may need to be removed and reapplied.

In addition to proper cleaning, properly caring for your teak decks means sanding the deck every 12-18 months. (Regular cleaning will minimize the need for regular sanding, and sanding is not recommended for any boats less than a year old.)

Luckily, you can avoid a major restoration project and enjoy the timeless style of your teak decking for decades by putting a little time into cleaning and care now.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

The truth about teak decks

• Ben Meakins
• March 1, 2016

Shipwright Robin Benjamin says modern, thin teak decks need lots of regular care, and so it’s vital to follow his advice on how to keep them looking good

In the last 15 years I have worked on more teak decks than I care to remember, writes Robin Benjamin : I think I’ve seen every problem that exists. What you have to know straight away is that, like anything, teak decks need looking after. If you take care of your decks they may last 20 years or more, if you don’t you’ll be appalled at how awful they look after only five. Because solid teak decks have been the norm for hundreds of years they have understandably earned a serious reputation for longevity. Today’s teak decks are not the same thing at all.

In many cases modern teak decks are little more than a quick way for the manufacturer to up the ‘class’ of their product. Many are poorly fitted, the wood is too thin and the caulking gap too narrow. Because of the minimal amount of wood involved the best plug on the deck might only be 3mm deep. Likewise, the caulking, unless of adequate depth and width, will not remain glued as the wood moves. However, all these problems would amount to little if folk took care of their teak decks. The most important advice is to wash the deck every week but few people can spare the time. It’s quite simple however: if you don’t wash your deck regularly it will soon go grey and dirty.

Don’t scrub

This is how worn teak decks can become after only five years of regular scrubbing and sanding

I’ve seen it done: the owner is standing there, his trouser legs rolled up, his knees red. True, his deck looks great… from the pontoon. But if you look carefully you’ll see grooves in the planks where the softer areas of grain have simply vanished. This is how it starts. Consider that you began with a lovely smooth surface, like a CD for example. After scrubbing it looks more like an LP record, but worse, much worse. Imagine now how quickly the ‘peaks’ will wear down as you walk on them. Of course it doesn’t end here, this is only the beginning. To keep your deck clean there is only one way, and that is a gentle wash with nothing more violent than a light detergent and a large sponge or very soft brush. If you do this regularly you will not wear down the teak, but you will wash off the dirt before it gets ingrained. Dirt contributes to the wear of a teak deck. If this approach doesn’t work then you can try oxalic acid. Dissolve some crystals in warm water, do not breathe the vapours and make sure you wear gloves. It burns. Rinse well. Oxalic acid should not harm anything on the boat except your skin. There are plenty of products that do the same thing but cost a lot more. If acid doesn’t bring back the colour then there’s only one thing left to do if you want a lovely looking teak deck, and that is to sand it. But if you want my advice: continue to wash it carefully and often, with soap, and live with the deck not looking its best. For some reason no one listens to me. I gladly advise people on how to look after their decks for free, even if it means I don’t get any work. It’s better for everyone, except me, that you take my advice. Yet despite this I still see people scrubbing their teak. I shake my head in wonder. Did I not explain what would happen if they scrubbed? ‘But it looks so great!’ they say. ‘So what’s the problem?’ The problem is that the next time they see their decks they will look grey and dirty again. The only difference will be that there is less teak than there was before. If your feet don’t wear down the peaks then they’ll fill up with dirt, making it look even worse. There’s only one way to get it out – more scrubbing. This time you’ll have to scrub harder to see a result. Can you see what’s happening? There will come a point soon when you decide the decks are looking pretty rough and need a good sanding.

Sand me timbers!

New decks get sanded to make everything look nice and flush – but it’s not a good idea to repeat this too often

Boatyards are very keen to do this work for you and why not? Next time you see the boat it will look great and they know you’ll be back, because soon the caulking will start to roll out in long spaghetti-like strips and the plugs will fall out, exposing the screws and making water ingress all the more likely. Now you’ve really got a problem. The plugs are not too much trouble but there will be hundreds to do. The real problem is the caulking. Just because some of it comes out really easily does not mean that it will all be like that. No, some of it will be sticking just like the manufacturer intended. You can make a special scraper to remove it but inevitably you will slip, damage areas and, even worse, you will enlarge the groove. If you’re really lucky you might be able to use a router for about 35% of the deck, but routers are vicious and it’s all too easy to make a mistake. Even a small enlargement of the slot will look terrible. Not only that but you’ll need a curved guide to run the router along for each slot. This takes ages. Bad enough if you’re doing it yourself, but it’s unbelievable if you’re paying a yard. Specialist tools exist but they are hideously expensive and it’s only the specialist yards that are likely to have them. Unfortunately the yard will be charging by the hour and there’s always a lot of work on any teak deck. So what are the options now that your deck is worn out? You can’t just remove it, because underneath it will be horrid. If it was laid properly in the first place they will have keyed in the glued surface and that means taking to it with a grinder on a plastic boat. And you’ll still have to cover the decks to hide the mess. So I hope you can see that I’m advocating care and prevention for your lovely teak deck. To just leave it uncared for is an outrageous waste of a precious resource. If that isn’t enough to make you care for your deck, then consider the cost of replacement. Teak costs approximately £3,000 a cubic metre. But you’ll need a lot more than you think, because just cutting down a big plank to size wastes a hideous amount of wood. The cost of the teak is a large part of the final bill. Basically you can quadruple the price of the teak to take into account the cost of first measuring and photographing the original deck to ensure everything fits properly, the cleaning up of the surface underneath and finally replacing the wood. To do the job properly you may have to remove the chain plates and that means dropping the mast and completely readjusting it afterwards. Not only that, but all those deck fittings that haven’t been touched for years will need to be removed. And don’t be surprised if many of the bolts are hell to get out or break in the process. It’s possible that some of the bolts were made specially or have been glassed over. You’ll need somewhere to do all this. Perhaps it’s possible to make a good cover but even this adds to the cost. The alternative is to put the boat in a shed somewhere. Anything is possible but it always costs. Replacing a teak deck is a massive job. To replace the decks on a 9m (30ft) boat is six weeks’ work – three months for a 15m (50-footer). We are talking about many thousands of pounds and your boat out of action for a while. There are other considerations before you decide on a teak deck. They weigh more: the caulking is surprisingly heavy, not to mention the wood and the thousands of screws. Perhaps what worries me most about laid decks on glassfibre boats is that you have to make thousands of holes in an otherwise perfectly waterproof surface to hold the deck down. Many fibreglass boats’ decks are balsa cored, that is to say, the deck is made of two layers of fibreglass with a layer of balsa wood in between. Balsa wood will not last long if it gets wet, yet this strikes me as very likely. The law of averages suggests that if you make 2,000 holes in a deck the chances of them all staying waterproof for years on end is pretty slim. What happens when the balsa has rotted away? I just don’t think making thousands of holes in a deck is wise. It is possible to lay a teak deck without screws, but it takes longer and therefore costs more.

So let’s sum up and cover up On the one hand I am thankful for owners and teak decks since they allow me the life I lead, but on the other I am very sad at the waste of it all. People could save themselves a lot of time, inconvenience and money if they just took care of their decks. And for some reason no one wants to spend money on ‘posh’ covers to protect their boat. Covers are initially expensive but they will repay their cost several times over. Not only will you not be required to replace your decks but you’ll be able to sell your boat for more because it has obviously been well looked after. It’s not just teak decks that will benefit from protection – plastic windows, instruments and gel coat will all last longer if kept out of the sun, wind and rain. The Grand Canyon was created by erosion from the elements. When you think like that, surely you can understand why I recommend covering up. I can only do my bit. I can’t change the world and I can’t change fashion, but I hope I can slow down the damage by telling the truth. So now you know. And remember: don’t scrub!

The good, the bad and the ugly

With decking that is very thin, the plugs over the fastenings are even thinner and can lift if the glue fails

This plug seems to have a problem. It could be loose and holding moisture, or the fastening is corroding

s Covers over vulnerable varnished work make sense, but a complete cover will also protect the deck

s Stains from oil and ferrous metal can be very awkward to remove from teak – try oxalic acid

Even old-style decks can have their problems. Here, to avoid butt joints, the planks had been scarfed together and, after many years, the feathered edge started to lift. The owner simply fixed it with epoxy

This thin timber decking has lost its caulking compound and the corner is starting to deteriorate

Tips for keeping teak in top condition

• Wash gently once a week
• Use a light detergent and soft sponge or very soft brush
• Tackle tough stains with oxalic acid solution
• Fit a cover over the whole deck
• Repair loose caulk and plugs promptly
• Scrub with a hard brush
• Leave decks to get really dirty
• Sand except as a last resort

This article was originally published in the June 2007 issue of PBO.

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• Digital Edition

Teak alternatives: 4 options for decking that doesn’t cost the earth

• May 7, 2020

Rupert Holmes explains what’s wrong with the marine industry’s obsession with hardwood and looks at real world teak alternatives

Photo: Lignia Yacht

Everyone loves an immaculate teak deck. They look great at boat shows and at chic Mediterranean quays, as well as providing excellent non-slip properties in the most demanding of conditions.

However, teak also has drawbacks. Firstly it doesn’t last forever, especially if a modern, and likely relatively thin, teak deck is scrubbed regularly. At the extreme I’ve seen a deck lose 1mm of thickness each year through scrubbing. Given the high cost of replacement this can have a significant impact on a yacht’s resale value.

The material also easily absorbs heat from the sun, making it uncomfortable to walk on in bare feet when in the tropics or Mediterranean summer. This also contributes to heating the interior of the boat.

Ocean Cork is one of many firms to offer eco-friendly teak alternatives

Teak doesn’t look good from a sustainability perspective either. A key problem is illegal logging of rainforest in Myanmar, one of the only four countries in which the species grows. Unfortunately, a ban on importing this illegal timber into the EU hasn’t stopped the trade, as evidenced by court cases in countries including Denmark, Sweden, Germany and Holland following the discovery of illegally imported teak.

As a result, the only way to be absolutely certain a source of teak is sustainable is to use salvaged material (or to ensure that the teak can be GPS-traced back to stump).

Timber at risk

“Teak is now considered a high risk timber,” confirms Nigel Stuart, MD of Spirit Yachts . “We take our responsibility to the environment very seriously and we are not prepared to risk using unsustainable wood.”

Teak alternatives have been available for many years and are gaining wide acceptance. In many cases they also offer multiple advantages over real teak, including better longevity. Many can be factory-made to match a template or CAD file, which significantly reduces labour and installation costs, while customisation can extend to logos and boat names.

Available products can be split into four broad categories:

• Modified softwoods

Expanded foam

Many of these don’t absorb liquids and are therefore easy to keep clean as any dirt stays on the surface.

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Many manufacturers offer a range of colours, with the most popular being shades close to freshly-scrubbed teak, or silvered, weathered teak. The former can look amazing at boat shows, though in the real world it can maybe look incongruous to those who understand the damage regular scrubbing does to real teak.

We’ve tried to give indicative prices for different options, but these are exceptionally difficult to pin down. Different products may need vastly different amounts of labour, which obviously affects cost, while detailing and edging is a major factor in the price of factory-made panels. The total cost for boats of similar sizes can therefore vary dramatically depending on the complexity of each of the panel shapes.

1. PVC decks

This option has historically offered some of the most convincing alternative teak products, with the grain, texture, impact resistance and non-slip properties of the real thing. As a result many of the new yachts seen at boat shows actually have simulated teak decks made of PVC.

Flexiteek decking on the SW105 Kiboko III

Despite their slightly textured surface, which replicates the grain of real wood, dirt and stains stay on the surface of PVC decking, so it can be cleaned relatively easily with a wet cloth and maybe soapy water. Unlike real teak, which has a mix of hard and very soft fibres, PVC decks can also be pressure-washed. Another bonus is that damaged areas can be sanded back to reveal fresh material that looks new.

One of the best-known brand names, Flexiteek, is celebrating its 20th anniversary and is expanding rapidly, with demand consistently growing at 20% annually. The company now produces 80,000m 2 of its decking product each year.

The 2G version, launched six years ago, is fully recyclable, while microballoons are used in place of chalk filler, which reduces heat absorption (certain PVC deck types and colours have been known to get very hot in direct sun). Flexiteek is available in a standard 5mm thickness and 11 colours, with plank widths from 45mm-200mm to replicate everything from planking to covering boards and cappings.

Flexiteek says PVC experts suggest the surface may start to crack after 25-30 years, but no problems have been observed on 20-year-old decks so far and the life span may be considerably longer. High traffic areas can become glossy, but these can be gently coarse sanded back by hand to the original matt finish.

Esthec seamless decking installed on a Princess R35

Esthec is a part of composite floor specialist Bolidt, which makes flooring in any shape for industrial applications through to decking for ships. Dutch yard Saffier has been fitting Esthec to its range of daysailers since 2008.

“We made one deck with Esthec and set this right next to a real teak deck,” managing director Dennis Hennevanger remembers, having been immediately taken by the product. “We invited all the customers who had ordered a Saffier with teak deck and gave them the choice… they instantly all went for the Esthec deck.”

Saffier has since built nearly 500 yachts with Esthec decks, “all without any problems”. Hennevanger says it is not necessarily a cheaper option to teak, but thinks it should last forever.

Saffier’s SE37 daysailer is fitted with PVC decks from Esthec

“I also like the technical side of Esthec,” he adds. “It is made completely seamless [the caulking doesn’t go right through], so it is impossible to have any leakages.” Additional benefits are that it is maintenance free, with no fading, has excellent anti-slip properties and comes with a complete freedom of design.

PlasDeck is less well known in the UK but has been established for 15 years, offering a range of PVC products in 28 shades that look and feel like wood. The company holds patents for non-migratory plasticisers that are bound to the molecular structure. The product is therefore very UV resistant and remains elastic as the oils don’t evaporate over time.

Fungus inhibitors throughout the material hold back the formation of the green mould that can all too easily grows on real teak decks, especially during persistently damp winters.

Permateek decking on a Contest 38

Permateek is another popular brand name and has recently introduced new shades that better mimic the grain of real teak. From a sustainability perspective, a big drawback with PVCs is they are plastics and will therefore remain in the environment forever. To offset this Flexiteek plants one tree for every 10m 2 of product sold. Esthec, meanwhile is formed from natural components, without the harmful ingredients commonly found in PVCs.

Prices for PVC products tend to range from €150 to €1,000 per square metre, varying according to the design and size of each panel. As a guide, in the UK Permateek costs £150-£350/m 2 depending on the complexity of the design. This compares to a material cost of around £285/m 2 for 6mm teak – but don’t forget there’s far more labour involved in laying a real teak deck.

Gisatex offers a more economic PVC product, at €69 per square metre, but in a thinner textured, non-slip material that makes no attempt to match the grain of teak. The company, which has been established for 10 years, sells matched repair kits for €10 and says a “very long lifespan is expected.” Light weight is a further advantage, but custom panels are not available.

Gisatex sits at the lower end of the PVC price bracket

There’s an increasing trend towards cork decking, according to Piet van der Staay of Marinedeck 2000, especially among younger boat owners. It’s a natural product harvested from FSC certified forests, largely in Portugal.

Common advice is to look for a product with large cork grains as these cope better with impact. In any case the material is inherently resilient and is significantly better than teak at resisting wear and abrasion.

Cork is also is a good insulator, so decks remain comfortable to walk on even in strong sun. Over a three to five year period it will slowly take a light grey hue, but this can be sanded back to reveal the original colour.

Marinedeck claims that its decking is popular among younger boaters

Marinedeck 2000 consists of cork granules with a synthetic polyurethane binder. It’s produced under high pressure, which gives the feel of high-density material, but is still flexible and absorbs knocks well. It’s supplied as individual planks, or as preformed finished pieces with a standard thickness of 9mm. The company has been in operation since 1986 and says there are still decks in good condition from its early days. As a result van der Staay quotes a 40-year expected lifespan.

Prices for Marinedeck 2000 start at €320/m 2 (ex VAT) including adhesives, while custom panels cost €520/m 2 (ex. VAT).

Another supplier, Ocean Cork, produces 8mm planks as standard, but 4mm is available if weight is critical. Given it’s one of the lightest decking materials available, at only 2.4kg/m2, for cruisers the thinner option appears to offer little benefit. Prices start at €349 (inc. VAT) for 1m 2 DIY kit (including glue and caulking) and approx €400/m 2 (inc. VAT) for larger custom made panels.

Ocean Cork is available in 8mm and 4mm thickness

This is a material with a soft cushioned feel, excellent grip underfoot and good shock-absorbing properties. SeaDek, which is made from a closed-cell PE/EVA foam is popular throughout the racing world, from sportsboats to the America’s Cup and the Ocean Race. It can be made in custom panels and in different thicknesses and is manufactured with an effective acrylic-based pressure sensitive adhesive for quick peel-and-stick application.

SeaDek’s Jason Gardner says the large range of colour, thickness, density and design options means the price range can be very wide. Whether or not there’s already a pattern for that model of boat in the company’s database also impacts pricing.

Sean Roebuck of ProCast, SeaDek’s leading UK fabricator, says prices including VAT generally work out in the range of £114-£151/m 2 .

SeaDek is popular with ocean racers. Photo: Ainhoa Sanchez/VOR

Cer-Deck, sold by Italian company Ceredi, also has a soft, slightly cushioned feel, very high resistance to degradation in sunlight and is colour stable.

It is 6-8mm thick and is available with a strong 3M self-adhesive backing to minimise labour costs when fitting. Custom panels cost around €250/m 2 (ex. VAT).

Life expectancy for expanded foam materials is around five to seven years for harsh use, and longer for less-heavily used boats. On the downside these materials are susceptible to damage from impact or pets’ claws.

Cer-Deck has a soft, cushioned feel

Modified softwood

Lignia is the latest product to be launched on the market, based on pine grown in FSC certified forests. After harvesting, the timber is impregnated with resin, before being dried in a curing process to ensure the resin is locked in at a molecular level. This gives Lignia performance and durability that can surpass tropical hardwoods.

It has a similar appearance to teak and can be worked in the same way, but has an expected lifespan of 50 years. The impregnation of resin means end of life disposal is not as easy as for untreated timber – the recommended option is to use it as fuel in biomass generating plants.

Anyone who saw the Spirit 50CR at last year’s Southampton Boat Show can attest that a quality yacht with Lignia decks will look stunning. It also has the benefit in being faster to dry than teak, which is handy in areas used for seating. Material costs are a little less than for teak, with typical savings around 5-20%. However, Lignia decks are just as labour intensive to lay as real teak.

Lignia, shown to great effect here on the decks of the Spirit 50CR, is a real softwood product treated to give it the appearance and longevity of teak

Price gauge

Tye Conway of UK-based decking specialist Elite-Teak says that typical installed prices in the UK are often lower than elsewhere in northern Europe, with many jobs falling into the following price ranges (ex. VAT) per square metre:

Synthetic teak: £200-£300 Foam decking: £150-£200 Cork decking: £200-£300 Real teak decking: £500-£600

Teak-effect solar panels

Italian solar panel manufacturer Solbian has a range of panels with a pigmented layer that creates different colour schemes. The teak option reduces output by only 6-8% compared to an equivalent standard panel, while custom sizes and shapes can be created without increasing prices.

The upcoming Spirit 44E will be fitted with teak-effect solar panels

The company has been working on projects with major boat manufacturers – the panels will be used, for instance, on the locker hatches of the aft deck of the Spirit 44E that’s currently in build. Solbian is also developing a version of the teak-effect panel with a non-slip finish.

Colour shades can also be matched to products of companies such as Flexiteek. Prices are typically 50% to 60% above those for the company’s standard solar panels .

First published in the April 2020 edition of Yachting World.

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• Boat Maintenance

Laid Teak Decks: Hallmark of Quality

There was a time when laid decks — teak, yellow pine, or fir — were the hallmark of a true yacht. The bare wood gave secure footing, easy maintenance, and reasonable protection from leaks. Since the advent of fiberglass, those same laid decks, almost universally of teak, have con­tinued to represent that hallmark. However, they have become at least as much a cosmetic feature as a functional one.

Teak decks, cockpit seats, cockpit sole, hatchtops, and cabin sole all lend themselves to being planked (or sheath­ed) in a traditional manner Almost no project can do more to “dress up” a boat than some laid decking, and it is a job the average boatowner can do himself. This article describes a simple method for laying decking, one we have used ourselves.

Let’s start with a glance at what such a project entails. Laid teak decking is expensive. As a purchased option on a production 35-footer it may run as much as $4500. The present cost of teak bought in small lots runs over $5 per board foot, and the price of glues and caulking approaches that of vintage cognac. A reasonable estimate for materials alone is about $8 per square foot, to say nothing of the labor, whether you pay a professional or do it yourself putting a fair value on your time and skills.

The idea is to lay a deck that looks traditional and solid. However, since the underlying structure, say cored fiberglass, is strong enough not to need the planking, the planking can be reasonably thin. For the typical produc­tion boat up to about 35′ the teak can be about 5/16″ thick, 3/8″ at the most. At this thickness the weight of the deck­ing is about 112 lbs per square foot, not so much that it should seriously decrease stability.

The problem with laying a deck this thin is that fasten­ing is a problem. If it were screwed to the underlying deck in the traditional fashion, the bungs (plugs) used over the fastenings would only be 1/8″ or so thick, so thin they would be impossible to keep in place and relatively soon worn through.

The solution is to glue the deck down and avoid using any permanent fastenings. With modern epoxies this system has been used for years by production boatbuilders (where, in fact, we came across it originally). Our own laid teak cockpit (seats and sole) done in this manner has lasted for four years with no signs of problems. Best of all, the system lends itself to amateur use.

The secret of doing the job depends on the right glue and then using only as many temporary fastenings as necessary to hold the planking in place long enough for the glue to set. When the fastenings are removed, the holes they were in are counterbored and bungs set in. Only you know that what looks like traditionally fastened decking is just as strong but was easier to lay than the “real thing.”

Materials and Tools

To lay decking in this fashion, start by measuring the area you wish to plank. It is best to work with smaller areas such as the cockpit sole or hatches before tackling the deck itself, realizing that laying a whole deck is a monumental project.

To determine the area, draw it to scale and decide what pattern of planking is best suited to it. Avoid trying to bend the planking to follow a curve; the thin wood we are using is hard to bend without splitting. Round all dimen­sions upward to take waste into account and buy plenty of wood for all the decking you plan to do.

The materials you will need are the following:

Wood: Teak (and for this project we cannot imagine using any other wood) is best bought dressed: sawn and planed (on one side, the top) to finished dimensions. The planks should be 11/2″ to 13/4″ wide for the most “authen­tic” look. There are two ways to have it sawn: ripsaw a teak plank of the proper thickness to produce slices of the width of your planking (Figure A); or slice thinner boards that have been ripsawn into strips the width of the plank­ing (Figure B). The latter may be a bit more expensive but it may also be easier to obtain dressed 1″ boards than the 2″ dressed needed for the former.

Glue: For best adhesion use a quality epoxy for laminating wood, thickened so that it stays in place when spread in a generous film. We recommend Gougeon epoxy. Start with the regular Gougeon laminating epoxy resin and add chopped strands or fibers (not microspheres, microballoons, Cabosil or any other mere thickening agents that do not serve to retain the strength of the glue). The glue should have the viscosity of mayonnaise (a lump should hang from an inverted putty knife without dripping off).

Caulking: This is not the place to get into any argument about what caulking to use -one part, two part, polysulfide, Thiokol, etc. The planking we are putting on uses caulking only cosmetically, not for permanent waterproofing; our suggestion is black Life-Caulk in cartridges.

Fasteners: Since fastenings are temporary we suggest #1• regular steel pan-head self-tapping sheet metal screws 1/2” long. Flathead screws tend to split thin teak if driven in too hard near the ends of planks.

A supply of 3/8” teak bungs

A handful of scrap wood the thickness of the seams between the planks (such as l/4” plywood) and a few inches long. These serve as spacers so that the seams are a uniform width.

Tools: One of the charms of laying this type of decking is that the tools needed are typically found in most home workshops: power hand drill, a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter than the screws, and a 3/8″ counterbore power sander, orbital (“vibrating” type), plus sandpaper square, either a framing square or a tri-square screwdriver putty knife for spreading glue cartridge type caulking gun mitre box and saw table saw with carbide blade (if ripping the teak planking) a few weights such as five-pound pigs of lead or even some bricks

Laying the Decking

Start by thoroughly sanding the surfaces on which the planking is to be laid. If the surface is reasonably new gelcoat (with or without a molded non-skid pattern), much of it should be removed down to the laminate underneath: unless all traces of wax are removed it will prevent adhesion of the glue. Older gelcoat that has never been waxed or painted does not need such thorough sanding. If in doubt, mix a small drop of glue, let it harden in droplet form on the gelcoat and then try to tap it loose. You should have to sand it down or, if it does come loose, it should take a chip of gelcoat with it.

From the scale plan (or pattern) you made to determine the amount of materials, cut all the pieces of planking to fit. If the area has deck fittings or follows a contour, use a precise pattern and first fit the planking to these shapes. Then wrap it in waxed paper (so it does not get inadvertently glued down) and screw it in place with no glue under it.

Then lay the straight planking out on the area to check dimensions. Once you start gluing and screwing you won’t want to be interrupted by the need to make more saw cuts or do fine fitting. If you have a choice, start at a straight edge and work toward a curve or a taper.

When the planking has been cut and fitted, mix and thicken the glue, enough to do about one hour’s work (less if the temperature is hot or the deck is being laid in the sun). Remember to mix two-part glue first, then add the fibers.

By using a thick glue there should be no need to drill pilot holes for the screws before setting each piece of planking in place. The stickiness of the glue plus the use of spacers should let you drill while holding the plank without its slipping. Tape the drill so that the holes will only be as deep as the screws are long. Remember, you only need to use enough screws so that the plank stays firmly in place until the glue cures. On smooth, flat surfaces weights alone may suffice.

Spread the glue thickly, especially in localized hollows. Don’t scrimp. The virtue of epoxy glues is that, unlike other types, they bridge gaps; that is, epoxies retain their strength even where the two surfaces being glued are not in direct contact. Use that virtue in laying the decking but don’t allow voids.

Lay each plank in the glue and move it around enough to assure that the glue transfers to the entire underside of the wood. It is okay if the glue squeezes up a bit between the planks as you set them in place; just don’t let so much get pushed up that it fills the seam.

As soon as one plank is in place and screwed or weighted down, spread more glue and go on to the next. If using planking with square edges, set spacers between the planks at regular intervals (every 2’ or so) and push the next plank tight against the spacer before drilling and fastening. As long lengths of teak may be slightly warped, you may need a screw or two in mid-span to keep the edge against the spacers.

As soon as the glue has begun to set, gently slide the spacers out; if left in place the glue at the bottom of the seams will make them stick as fast as the planking. Removing them then may result in edges of the teak planking chipping (a lesson passed on from the heart).

Once the glue under the straight planks has cured, remove any edge pieces that were temporarily screwed down, spread glue under them and fasten them down. Carefully wipe clean any glue that pushes out on the outside edges of planks. Even residual glue will show up as yellow and unsightly when it cures and will be next to impossible to remove.

Finally, after all the pieces are in place and the glue has cured completely; remove all screws, redrill with the counterbore almost to the bottom of each plank, and plug with bungs. Glue the bungs in; this the one time it pays to glue bungs as there would never be any reason to remove them.

Finishing Off

When all of the planking has been bunged and the glue is dry, carefully chisel the bungs off almost flush. Sand the new decking well with a moderately coarse sandpaper (say, 80 grit). If any plank stands higher than surrounding ones, sand or plane it level.

Next tape along each seam edge with masking tape and fill each seam with black caulking compound, overfilling the seams slightly. Then drag a putty knife blade along the top of every seam to even and smooth the tops. Remove the tape and let the caulking set.

If during finishing you discover that any planking has a void under it (it will be springy or a tap with a hard object will make a hollow sound), drill a 3/8” hole through the teak into the void. Use that hole to fill the void with glue using a glue syringe, then bung the hole.

Finally, sand the whole area with progressively finer sandpaper grits until the surface is smooth. Slightly round any sharp corners. Do not use any teak dressings or sealers until you are certain the caulking is completely cured. There have been too many recurring reports of sealers chemically attacking various caulking compounds, especially those that have not thoroughly cured.

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How to Extend the Life of Teak Decking

Extend the life of teak decking and protect your investment with regular cleaning, maintenance, and repairs. The ultimate decking choice is teak because of its durability, anti-slip properties, rot resistance, and insulation, and, of course, its beauty. To maximize its value, clean it properly; lightly sand it once each year; and inspect for potential repairs. A properly maintained deck can last 5 to 15 years longer than one that is poorly maintained.

CLEAN FREQUENTLY … and CAREFULLY

FACT: There are cleaning methods that will sustain a teak deck and ones that will destroy it.

Teak is best cleaned with a soft-bristled brush using fresh or saltwater, and a single-part cleaner, such as the proprietary  ECO Cleaners  from Teakdecking Systems. These products are  MARPOL  and  Florida Clean Marina  certified, to help prevent water pollution.

Proper Cleaning Methods

• Wash deck with a single-part cleaner ( Teakdecking Systems ECO cleaners ) and a soft-bristled brush or scrubbing pad like  Scotch-Brite Maroon pad  or equivalent, and rinse well. If a single-part cleaner is not available, use dishwashing liquids such as Dawn with a small amount of bleach. Boat soap is okay to use, too, but it has a low pH so it’s important to rinse well.
• ALWAYS scrub AGAINST the grain lightly with the soft-bristled brush or scrubbing pad.
• Wash often to keep residue from becoming ingrained in the wood.
• Clean spills immediately to prevent damage to the teak.

NOTE: Rinsing often with salt water is recommended too. Many boat owners believe this is the best way to maintain and preserve teak, minimizing the use of cleaning agents.

IMPORTANT: Only use soft-bristled brushes or a scrubbing pad. A hard-bristled brush will wear away the softwood and shorten the life of the deck.

Before & After Cleaning with  Teakdecking Systems ECO Cleaner

Improper Cleaning Methods

Teak is comprised of hard and soft wood. The growth rings of a teak tree form the dark hardwood, and the wood between these rings is the softwood. Therefore, when softwood is destroyed, deep ridges and uneven surfaces are created. Ridges trap debris, mold, and residues.

If a deck has proper care, a tight-grained marine deck constructed of vertical-grain teak will last longer because there is less softwood.

Ridges in teak collect dirt and mold as seen in this deck that is ready for replacement

The following products  DESTROY  the softwood and should never be used for cleaning:

• Power-washers
• Two-part cleaners (highly-acidic)
• Stiff-bristle brushes

CAUTION: Overly aggressive cleaning has the potential to damage the deck too. So, clean gently ONLY when needed.

PERFORM ANNUAL LIGHT SAND-OUT to EXTEND DECK LIFE

In addition to proper cleaning, perform an annual  light  sand-out (best performed by a highly experienced carpenter). A well-done sand-out will remove a thin layer of teak refreshing the surface and make it smooth. The teak’s natural oil is brought back to the surface. Further, the silver patina that naturally develops is removed with a light sand-out. This restores the teak to its original golden color should the owner prefer this look, but a grayed deck offers protection of the wood. Note, a gray deck may be cleaned and its color will not change.

Sailboat with a Fresh Sand-Out – Looks like a New Teak Deck

As stated previously, the softwood naturally wears away faster. So, sand-outs keep the surface smooth, minimizing residue build-up in rough surfaces where softwood is worn.

A proper sand-out removes a thin layer of teak (and caulking) evenly,. The skilled carpenter commonly starts with 60 grit and finishes with 80-100 grit, using a dustless sander such as a  Festool  branded product.

To ensure success, only hire very skilled technicians with quality equipment to perform this task. Seek out professionals who have strong references. (Ask local boatyards for recommendations.) A skilled technician reduces the risk of an uneven sand-out or potential gouges in the wood. Teak is an expensive investment and a bad sand-out will unnecessarily reduce its useful life. Uneven surfaces can create low areas where water can accumulate.

IMPORTANT: Cleaning regularly will minimize the need for sanding.

INSPECT AND REPAIR CAULKING

Inspect decks for loose caulking or gaps . Look for missing or detached caulking which could allow water penetration. If no failures are visible, wet the deck. As the deck dries, look for areas that may stay wet longer than the surrounding teak. This is where failures may exist.

Repair missing or detached caulking immediately to prevent damage.

Caulking Repairs are Often Necessary

Remove and re-caulk cracked or hardened caulking. Caulking must be flexible to allow the deck to expand and contract.

TIPS TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF TEAK DECKING

• Store boats under cover when possible
• Bows and swim platforms often experience the most weather damage and require more maintenance, so protect these areas if possible
• Create and adhere to a regular cleaning and maintenance program
• Make repairs immediately

Enjoy the beauty and functionality of a teak deck, and contact us with questions about how to extend the life of teak decking or read these articles:

How to Assess Teak Decking Quality

How to Inspect Teak Deck Caulking and Seams

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