rigging a cl16 sailboat

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Ahoy, fellow sailors! If you're the proud owner of a CL16 sailboat, you already know the joys of cruising gracefully across the water, powered only by the wind. To ensure that your sailing experiences remain smooth and enjoyable, it's essential to properly maintain your CL16 sailboat. In this blog post, we'll explore five key maintenance tips that will help you keep your vessel in top condition for optimal performance.

Understanding the CL16 Sailboat

Before diving into maintenance tips, let's take a moment to appreciate the CL16 sailboat itself. Designed by Canadian naval architect Robb White in the 1960s, the CL16 is a versatile and popular sailing dinghy known for its stability, simplicity, and ease of handling. With a length of 16 feet and a sail area of 127 square feet, the CL16 is ideal for both beginners and seasoned sailors looking for a fun and responsive vessel.

Maintenance Tip 1: Regular Inspections

Regular inspections are the cornerstone of good sailboat maintenance. By conducting thorough inspections before and after each sailing trip, you can catch any issues early and prevent them from escalating into more significant problems. Here are some key areas to focus on during inspections:

• Hull : Check for cracks, dents, or any signs of damage on the hull.
• Rigging : Inspect the rigging, including shrouds, stays, and halyards, for wear and tear.
• Sails : Look for tears, fraying, or UV damage on the sails.
• Hardware : Check all hardware, such as blocks, cleats, and fittings, for tightness and corrosion.

Maintenance Tip 2: Cleaning and Protection

Proper cleaning and protection are essential for preserving the longevity of your CL16 sailboat. Saltwater, dirt, and UV rays can all take a toll on your vessel over time. Here's how you can keep your sailboat clean and protected:

• Rinsing : After each sailing trip, rinse your sailboat with fresh water to remove salt and dirt.
• Cleaning : Use a mild soap and water solution to clean the hull, deck, and sails.
• Waxing : Apply a protective wax to the hull and deck to shield them from UV damage.
• Covering : Store your sailboat under a cover when not in use to protect it from the elements.

Maintenance Tip 3: Sail Care

The sails are the heart of any sailboat, including the CL16. Proper care and maintenance of your sails will not only prolong their lifespan but also ensure optimal performance on the water. Here are some tips for caring for your sails:

• Proper Storage : Fold or roll your sails neatly when not in use to prevent creases and damage.
• UV Protection : Avoid leaving your sails exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods.
• Repairs : Promptly repair any tears, holes, or loose stitching on your sails to prevent further damage.
• Tuning : Periodically tune your sails to ensure they are set correctly for optimal performance in different wind conditions.

Maintenance Tip 4: Hardware Maintenance

The hardware on your CL16 sailboat plays a crucial role in its functionality and safety. Regular maintenance of hardware components will help prevent accidents and ensure smooth sailing experiences. Here's how you can maintain the hardware on your sailboat:

• Lubrication : Apply marine-grade lubricant to moving parts, such as blocks and winches, to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation.
• Tightening : Check and tighten all hardware components regularly to prevent loosening during sailing.
• Replacement : Replace any worn or damaged hardware, such as blocks or cleats, to avoid safety hazards.

Maintenance Tip 5: Seasonal Maintenance

Seasonal maintenance is essential for keeping your CL16 sailboat in top condition throughout the year. Before and after each sailing season, take the time to perform a more thorough inspection and maintenance routine. Here's what you should include in your seasonal maintenance checklist:

• Hull Inspection : Check the hull for any signs of osmosis, blisters, or delamination.
• Rigging Check : Inspect the rigging for any signs of corrosion, wear, or fatigue.
• Bottom Paint : If applicable, apply or touch up bottom paint to protect the hull from fouling.
• Sail Evaluation : Assess the condition of your sails and consider any necessary repairs or replacements.

By following these maintenance tips and staying proactive in caring for your CL16 sailboat, you can ensure that it remains in optimal condition for many sailing adventures to come. Remember, a well-maintained sailboat is not only safer but also more enjoyable to sail. Fair winds and following seas, fellow sailors!

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• Boat Repair and Restoration
• Boat Restoration, Building, and Hull Repair
• Thread starter B. Williams
• Start date Sep 17, 2008

B. Williams

• Sep 17, 2008

Anybody here ever had the top off a CL-16 sailboat? I was given a hull where the cockpit sole is soft and styrofoam beads wash out from under it. Very nice hull but the top almost has to come off at this point. I pulled the bump rail and the sides are epoxied together and have rivets that will have to be pulled or drilled. What is the best way to break the top lose from the bottom? Do you cut this seam with a saws-all? Thanks in advance from a newly bitten sailboat fiend!  

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16' Restoration... How do I rig this lady?

• Thread starter christophermoorkelly
• Start date Aug 7, 2023
• Tags restoration rigging
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

christophermoorkelly

I've spent the last year restoring this odd 16' racer. It seems like she's something of a custom kit build. Similar to a Pirate, Comet, Lightening, etc, but not quite. Anyway, I'm struggling to figure out the exact way to re-rig. Just working with the standing rigging for now, I'm sure I'll have questions about the running rigging later. Please forgive a novice's ignorance. The sails are from a Hampton One (even have the logo), but those only have one set of spreaders. I have two. For mine, it seems like the stabilizers (diamond stay? jumper stay?) run from the top of the mast, over the top spreaders, through the bottom spreaders near the mast, and then attach. The mast is a bit forward of the two sets of chainplates. I could go on about what I don't know and what I've tried (and I've been reading), but at this point really just looking for someone who knows what to do. Notes: image is from the top of the mast down, forward side. One of the spreaders broke off on one of my test setups. Repairs underway.  

Attachments

... on some rigs (notably the B & R rig) there is no back stay. The lower shrouds are slighly aft of the mast base and serve to keep the mast from falling forward. Yours might be rigged the same way but it is hard to tell from the pics. I don't see a back stay in your photo. If your aft chain plate is aft of the mast, you might have a B&R-like rig.  

I can see that a topping lift and mainsheet/traveler probably need to be rigged to help support the mast. When the main sail is on, it will tension the mast aft as a backstay would.. Don't sail it under headsail alone unless the topping lift and mainsheet is tensioned.. She is a beauty! The spreaders probably should be allowed to pivot aft, probably not rigidly fixed, so that the stays line up correctly..  

Is the configuration of the mast and shrouds shown on the driveway the way the boat came to you? If so, then why not use the chain plate in line with the mast for the uppers and the chain plate aft of the mast for the lowers (Like rgranger said). The lowers would keep the mast from falling forward - I think. What about a forestay? I don't really see any provision for one like a tang on the mast head or near it facing forward. Is there another wire there? Is the wire flat against the mast long enough to be a forestay? If it is the forestay, that might explain the double spreaders. That would be a pretty extreme fractional rig and more support for the upper mast would be necessary. Normally jumper struts would be the way to do that. But maybe the diamond shrouds serve that function. I don't think I've ever seen a 16' boat with a double spreader rig! But why? It's more complicated than it needs to be. What about the sail(s)? I would expect a large main that would go up to that tunnel in the upper mast. In my forestay speculation there couldn't be much of a jib. Measure the foot of the jib if it exists and compare it to the distance from the bow to the mast. Does this mythical jib have a wire sewn into its luff? Sometimes that is the forestay. On the other hand you would need a furler for that setup. I don't see ant mainsail track or provision for halyards. It is an odd duck rig to me. It raises more questions than I have answers for.  

Odd duck rig indeed! The forestay is indeed there, it attaches right near the upper spreaders. Both sails seem to be right off the Hampton One, logo and all. I dug her out of some guy's yard and have been at it ever since. I haven't made any modifications, since this rig is pretty foreign to me (obviously). The plan is to recreate whatever is there and then make any necessary mods over the winter. The Hampton One sails are definitely oversized for this boat. I ran the numbers and the CLR and CoE are pretty much right on top of each other too. She might sail like a wild mustang. Little unnerving, as I had to scarf the mast back together. It had obviously snapped before, but was poorly mended. Basically a router cut and wood strips plugged in, all wrapped in fiberglass. Rotted right out. Here are some more images:  

Nice job on the scarf! And the other wood work. In image_6968 the mast shows mildly sweptback spreaders. In which case I might reverse my Rx about which chainplates to use. With sweptback spreaders, the "Cap" shrouds usually run from aft of the mast to higher on the mast. The best suggestion would be to see what the length of the shrouds tells you.  

shemandr said: The best suggestion would be to see what the length of the shrouds tells you. Click to expand

That looks like a really fun boat. I bet you will be able to get her to surf on a run....  

I'll see who I can scrounge up for another test fit. Good catch on the swept back low spreaders. I'll replicate that and see what shrouds line up. I have new wire rope ready to go once I figure it all out. And the boom is half varnished... if only the weather would work with me for a change. I haven't even thought about the running rigging yet. It's been a year since I started... so close, yet still so much to do...  

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• Sailboat Guide

CL 16 is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Ian Proctor/Graham Dodd / George Blanchard and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1967.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on the Ian Proctor designed WAYFARER. CL = Croce & Lighthouse.

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CL-14 looks sweet, any thoughts?

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Have caught a glimpse of what looks like my perfect sailing dinghy, the CL-14, and have found 2 for sale, though I've never heard of the CL name before. Anyone had any experience with the CL-14? Hoping it fulfills my need for a boat that's quick and fun for me to sail alone on the various protected bays of Cape Cod, yet not too tender or wet for also using as a skill/confidence builder for my wife (or too dangerous for bringing the toddler out on a gentle day); quick to rig, easy to transport/trailer, well built and simple in design...helpful responses to my previous post here 2 weeks ago convinced me that I didn't know what kind of boat I wanted at the time, and my subsequent rethinking has led me to this boat. Any specific comments on the CL-14 would be greatly appreciated.  

Not sure what a CL14 is, but if it happens to be an old C-Lark which was 14', that is a fun boat. Which acually was ment to be an International 14 in fiberglass, but was a bit heavy to compete, so "Clark" boat company, makers of San Juans turned it into a decent 1d class in the 70's. I will point out, I may be discussing/talking about the wrong boat, as I have not heard of the C-lark being called a CL14, but then again........ Marty  

Thanks, but I think it's a different boat. The CL is a Canadian company, still in production...first hit when you google "CL Sailboats"...Just gave the company a call, the guy was a real nice Canadian, which just made me want to buy their boat even more...  

From a generally speaking standpoint, the two look similar. Altho the C-Lark might have a bit more WL, and will plane with enough wind. This one may too. For a beginner, someone whom wants to have fun with family, this may very well be a great little boat. Has some dry storage area forward to pack some food or equal. Might be able to tent camp on a lake island if you want......... Other than first glance at pics, website etc. I would certainly consider it. Even new the price is reasonable for what you get. Vanguard as I recall also has a boat of this size, as does Catalina and Hunter IIRC too marty  

CL14s are common in Ontario... perhaps elsewhere too. They have been around for ever and have a great reputation as being "bulletproof" i.e. suitable for for the rigours of sailing schools, camps, resorts etc. I worked at a resort in the late 1970s and we had a CL 14. My daughter followed my footsteps many years later and taught sailing at our local sailing club on CL14s (or maybe the CL16s?). Simple design, easy to rig and great for your intended purpose IMHO. Sailboats Online  

I've owned a CL 11 and now a Cl 14 for sailing on the eastern shore of Georgian Bay. The CL 11 was a superb dinghy...great hull shape for tacking in close spaces...it has a 4 foot keelson stretching from aft the centerboard box to the transom. The little dinghy always seems to be sensitive to the helm...not overly but in light winds you feel that you still have control. Tacking is just superb even in 3-4 foot swells and you stay dry. The bailers look after any water shipped. Coming about is sure footed yet the weather helm is not so obvious that you don't have to be bringing the bow back down all the time. I imagine the 14 will be more of the same...quite forgiving of any tiller errors.Running downwind is a breeze...I tacked into a SW 15 wind for three hours and then came back with that wind in under 30 mins! The hull design is the key to it's success...if you find one grab it. There aren't many builders out there who care how a boat sails...as long as they sell it. But C&L Boatworks has a history of good design and it sure shows in the performance of their dinghies.  

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