sailboat build cost

How Much Do Sailboats Cost 2024? The Average Prices

The cost of a sailboat can vary greatly depending on a number of features, so it’s hard to give a definitive answer without knowing requirements.

Although it’s common to think sailing’s for the rich , that isn’t always the case. In fact, you can pick up project boats for as little as $1! This is unusual though, so what can you expect to pay?

To give a rough idea, a small, basic sailboat can start at around $10,000, while high-end, luxury boats can easily exceed $1 million.

Additionally, the cost of owning and maintaining a sailboat should also be considered. This can include expenses for docking fees, insurance, repairs and upgrades, and essential sailing gear and equipment.

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When we bought our sailboat four years ago we had no idea if we would like living aboard or how long we would want to cruise for. We knew we wanted a boat under 40ft so we could manage it as a crew of two (or even one if needs be), but bigger than 35ft so we had enough room to live comfortably.

Because we had a very small budget we knew we wouldn’t be able to afford a sailboat that was fully fitted out and ready to go, so we had to factor in upgrades and maintenance that we would complete ourselves as and when we could afford to.

We bought our 38ft sailboat for under £30,000, which was one of the cheapest sailboats that was ‘ready to sail’ in the size and age range at the time. Just like houses, sailboats go and up and down in price based on demand, and in today’s market it is much harder to find a boat like this in that price range.

So now that you have a bit of context, let’s dive into the factors that affect the cost of a sailboat and some average prices below.

‍W hat Factors Affect The Cost Of A Sailboat?

Before buying a sailboat you will want to consider many different factors, such as what you want your sailboat for, where you intend to sail it and how many crew you are likely to have onboard.

You will want to look at the existing equipment onboard and make a list of extras you will need to fit in order to make it meet your requirements. These extra costs can quickly add up! You should also factor in any maintenance that needs to be done before you start sailing.

Let’s take a look at some of the main factors that impact the price of a sailboat.

New or Used

This is an obvious one. Used sailboats are a lot cheaper than brand new versions. Sailboats are similar to cars and lose their value over time, no matter how much work you put into them. The most common opinion is that new sailboats lose their value on a bell curve, and you will make the most of your investment if you sell a new boat within four years.

Buying a much older boat is cheaper initially, but may cost you ten fold in maintenance and upgrades if it hasn’t been looked after well by the previous owner. You should always use a well regarded surveyor before buying a sailboat to make sure you are paying a fair price.

Larger sailboats typically cost more than smaller ones. You can buy a small used sailing dinghy for around £1000, which will be suitable for hobby sailing for a few hours on lakes or close to shore in calm weather. This is a great option if you’re keen to learn to sail on a small budget.

Here are a few price comparisons on new boats of different sizes.

Average Prices Of 22ft yachts

• Catalina 22 Sport:  $27,000 + VAT
• Marlow Hunter 22:  $30,000 + VAT
• Marblehead 22:  $84,000 + VAT

Average prices of 40ft – 45ft yachts

• Lagoon 40:  $400,000 + VAT
• Hanse 418:  $200,000 + VAT
• Ovni 445:  $600,000 + VAT

Monohull or Multihull

With two engines, two hulls and a lot more space multihulls fetch a premium. In recent years they have become more popular than ever, and therefore they are a lot more expensive both new and used than monohulls. They are also more expensive to upkeep and more expensive to run.

Well-known, high-end brands often come with a higher price tag. As you can see from the chart above, even sailboats of the same or very similar size can vary hugely in price. This is partly down to the reputation of the brand and boat manufacturer. If the boat has the reputation of being of excellent build quality then it will undoubtedly demand a higher price tag!

Additional amenities and technology can increase the cost. If you’re buying a new boat then it will likely come with all the essentials like depth souder and wind gauge (or this may be something you will need to add on as an extra). Used boats will come with whatever they come with, which may mean outdated or broken equipment, or none at all.

When we bought our used boat we drew up a spreadsheet of all the equipment we considered essential and we added missing equipment onto the cost of the sailboat, so that we knew how much extra we would have to spend after purchase.

Some things, like our sailboat watermaker , might not be essential to others but have changed our lives aboard.

Even things like our lithium marine batteries would now be on our ‘essentials’ list, as they are so power and cost effective compared to the alternatives.

⚡ We use BattleBorn batteries and recommend them highly. You can check them out here. ⚡

A used sailboat may be less expensive, but will almost certainly require more maintenance and upkeep. You can tackle a lot of boat maintenance yourself with the help of YouTube sailing channels and a decent sailboat toolkit , and this will keep costs down considerably.

‍‍‍‍‍‍ ‍‍Overall, it is important to carefully consider all factors and do thorough research before making a purchase decision for a sailboat

The Average Cost Of A New Cruising Sailboat

We’ve classed a cruising boat as one you could live on comfortably as a couple, so ranging from around 38ft to 50ft.

On average, a new cruising sailboat can cost anywhere from $100,000 to over $1 million . Some popular brands, such as Beneteau and Jeanneau, offer models in the $200,000 to $400,000 range.

Luxury cruising sailboats from well-known brands like Hanse or any catamarans can easily exceed $500,000.

Of course, the cost will also depend on the size and features of the boat. A smaller, basic cruising sailboat may be closer to $100,000 while larger boats with more amenities can easily surpass the million-dollar mark.

Keep in mind that these prices do not include additional expenses for maintenance and upkeep.‍‍

Here are some examples:

• Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 : $300,000 + VAT
• Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 : $400,000
• Amel 50:  $1,100,000 + VAT
• Hallberg Rassy 57:  £1,400,000  VAT

Used Cruising Sailboat Prices

The cost of a used cruising sailboat will depend on factors such as age, condition, and previous ownership.

A well-maintained, newer model used sailing boat can range from $50,000 to over $200,000. Older boats or those in need of repairs may be less expensive, but require more investment in upkeep and maintenance. You could pick up a used 38ft sailboat for around $40,000, though it will likely need some attention before it is ready to sail.

It is important to thoroughly inspect a used sailboat before purchasing and factor in potential repair costs. As with buying a new boat, the cost of owning and maintaining a used sailboat should also be considered. ‍‍‍‍‍‍ ‍‍

Overall, the price of a used cruising sailboat can vary greatly and it is hard to give an average price, but expect to pay around $50,000 to $100,000 and then extra for maintenance.

• Tayana 37:  $30,000-90,000
• Moody 44:  €60,000-100,000
• Lagoon 380:  $150,000-350,000
• Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 42:  $130,000-200,000
• Ovni 445:  $300,000-500,000
• Hans Christian 48:  $120,000-180,000

How Much Does A Small Sailboat Cost?

Small sailboats, also known as dinghies or day sailors, can range from around $10,000 to $50,000. This cost will depend on factors such as size, brand, and features.

Used small sailboats may be less expensive, but it is important to carefully consider the condition and potential repairs that may be needed. A well-maintained, newer model used dinghy or day sailor can range from $5,000 to $20,000. Again, small catamarans tend to be more expensive than monohulls.

In addition to the initial purchase cost, owning a small sailboat also includes expenses for storage, maintenance, and necessary gear and equipment.

• Hobie 16:  $11,000 + VAT
• Catalina 22 Sport:  $28,000 + VAT
• Catalina 22:  $3,000-22,000
• Cape Dory 25:  $2,000-10,000
• Catalina 27:  $4,000-15,000
• Bristol 27:  $3,000-10,000

How Do People Finance Sailboats?

Sailboats can be a major financial investment, and many people choose to finance their purchase through a loan from a bank or other lending institution. It is important to carefully consider the terms of the loan and make sure that monthly payments fit into one’s budget.

Some boat dealers may offer financing options or payment plans. However, it is important to thoroughly research these options and compare them with outside lenders before making a decision.

In some cases, people may also use savings or sell assets in order to pay for a sailboat.

In addition to the initial cost of purchasing a sailboat, it is important to also factor in expenses for maintenance, storage, insurance, and necessary gear and equipment. Owning a sailboat can be a rewarding experience, but it is important to carefully plan for all associated costs before making a financial commitment. ‍‍‍‍‍‍

You can find out the cost of owning a sailboat before you decide to buy, and don’t forget it is possible to make money living on a sailboat to keep the kitty topped up. ‍‍

Overall, the cost of owning a sailboat varies greatly and depends on personal preferences and budget. It is important to thoroughly research all financing options and consider the ongoing expenses before committing to a purchase.

How Much Does It Cost To Build A Sailboat?

The cost of building a sailboat can vary greatly depending on the size and complexity of the boat. Hiring a professional to build a custom sailboat can range from $50,000 to over $200,000.

Alternatively, some people may choose to build their own sailboat with materials and tools. This option can be less expensive, but also requires considerable time and effort. The cost of building a sailboat oneself will also depend on the materials used and any necessary equipment or hired help.

Overall, the cost of building a sailboat is quite personal based on budget, sailing needs, and willingness to DIY or hire professionals. Remember that if you choose to build the boat yourself you will need a covered space big enough to do so, and a way to transport it to water when you’re finished. All these costs can add up considerably!

Where Is The Cheapest Place To Buy A Sailboat?

Prices can vary by region and market demand. When we were first looking for a sailboat we realised they were a lot cheaper in the US. The only problem with buying there was that we wouldn’t have been able to get a visa long enough to give us time to work on the boat before leaving the country.

Another top tip is to look for sailboats in places that are ‘jump off points’. For example, many people will cross the Atlantic and sell after achieving their dream of crossing an ocean, or reach the beginning of a daunting ocean crossing like Panama to cross the Pacific, and realise it’s something they don’t have an appetite for. There are also cheaper boats in more remote, harder to get to places.

Some people may choose to purchase their sailboat in a different country or region in order to find a lower price, but it is important to factor in any necessary transportation and import fees.

Keep an eye on prices of boats around the world to get a good idea of where you can snap up the best bargain.

Conclusion: How Much Do Sailboats Cost?

All in all, the cost of a sailboat can vary greatly depending on factors such as size, age, and whether it is purchased or built. It is important to thoroughly consider all financing options and ongoing expenses before making a commitment to purchase or build a sailboat.

Find out how much new sails cost as an example of something you might have to budget for when purchasing a new sailboat.

Ultimately, owning a sailboat can be a rewarding experience but careful planning is necessary for successful budgeting and enjoyment. ‍‍‍‍‍‍If you’re looking for more sailing or liveaboard tips then follow us on social media to stay up to date with our latest articles.

Happy sailing!

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How Much Do Sailboats Cost? A Comprehensive Guide

When it comes to the world of sailing, one of the first questions that often comes to mind is the cost associated with owning a sailboat. The price can vary significantly depending on factors such as the size and age of the boat, its make and model, and whether it is new or used. In this article, we will explore the average costs involved in buying and owning a sailboat, giving you a better understanding of what to expect when considering this exciting investment.

The average price of new sailboats is $250,000, with a range from $96,000 to $654,000, while the average price of used sailboats is $111,000, ranging from $19,000 to $518,000  (Improve Sailing) . It is important to note that these figures can fluctuate depending on the specific model, brand, and features that come with the boat. For instance, a 20 to 30-year-old cruising sailboat in excellent condition can cost between $30,000 and $150,000, with some luxury models exceeding $200,000  (Life of Sailing) .

Aside from the initial purchase price, potential sailboat owners must also consider the ongoing expenses associated with maintenance, dockage, insurance, and other costs. Annual maintenance can range from $2,000 to $3,000 for most boats, with the total annual cost of ownership falling between $3,000 and $7,000  (Improve Sailing) . By understanding these expenses and being prepared for them, you can make a more informed decision when purchasing a sailboat and enjoy the many benefits of this exciting and rewarding hobby.

New vs Used Sailboats

When it comes to purchasing a sailboat, one of the first decisions a buyer has to make is whether to opt for a new boat or a pre-owned one. Both options have their own advantages and potential shortcomings, depending on the buyer's budget, preferences, and sailing goals.

New sailboats provide the advantage of being in pristine condition, with no wear and tear, and come with a manufacturer's warranty. Buyers can often customize them according to their specific needs and preferences. However, buying a new boat usually comes at a higher price, and depreciation can be a significant factor in the first few years of ownership. In contrast, used sailboats can cost considerably less, as they already have some usage and age Two Get Lost .

Pre-owned boats may include additional features and equipment that were added by previous owners. These can contribute to the value of the vessel and help the new owner save on additional costs. However, used sailboats may require more maintenance and repairs than their new counterparts, which could affect the overall cost of ownership. An essential part of purchasing a pre-owned sailboat is obtaining a professional survey to assess the boat's condition and identify any potential issues. This typically costs around $500 for a 40-foot or smaller yacht Discover Boating .

Finding the right sailboat ultimately depends on a balance between one's budget, specific requirements, and realistic expectations. By carefully assessing the pros and cons of both new and used sailboats, buyers can make an informed decision in line with their personal preferences, budget constraints, and long-term sailing objectives.

Size and Type of Sailboats

When considering the cost of a sailboat, it's important to take into account both the size and the type of the sailboat. Smaller boats tend to be more affordable, while larger boats tend to carry a higher price tag. However, prices can also significantly vary within a specific type or brand of sailboat, so one should consider all factors before making a purchase decision.

For example, a 22-foot sailboat may be close to $30,000 brand new, yet an older model of the same boat built in the late 1970s might be purchased for $5,500  source . Similarly, a new Islander 36' can cost nearly $150,000, while a used one can cost you around $40,000  source .

Different types of sailboats may have varying costs as well. Some popular types of sailboats include:

• Day Sailers: These smaller vessels are designed for short trips and are a popular choice for beginners. They have limited amenities and are typically less expensive.
• Cruisers: These mid-sized boats are equipped for extended trips and can accommodate multiple passengers in comfortable living quarters. They are more expensive than day sailers, but usually more affordable than racers or luxury sailing yachts .
• Racers: These high-performance boats are designed for speed and competition. They tend to have fewer amenities than cruisers but may be more expensive due to their specialized features and lightweight materials.
• Luxury Sailing Yachts: These high-end vessels are designed for comfort and extravagance, featuring state-of-the-art amenities and ample space for passengers. They come with hefty price tags, often costing millions of dollars.

As previously mentioned, used sailboat prices vary greatly, but on average, they tend to be around $21,000. New boats, on the other hand, can cost $60,000 and upwards  source .

Additional Expenses

When considering the cost of sailboats, it's important to factor in additional expenses beyond the initial price of the boat. These costs can significantly impact the overall cost of boat ownership.

One such expense is  insurance . For new cruisers, insurance can be a considerable expense, with rates dropping the longer you own your boat. For instance, insurance can start at around 2.8% of the boat's value and later drop to 1.3% after a year of ownership  (The Home That Roams) .

Annual maintenance costs  are another expense to consider. On average, maintenance costs for sailboats range from $2,000 to $3,000 per year, but they can be even higher for larger boats  (Improve Sailing) . This includes costs for servicing, repairing, and upgrading various components of the sailboat.

Other recurring expenses include:

• Docking fees  - Depending on the marina and location, docking fees can vary greatly.
• Equipment upgrades  - From time to time, you may need to upgrade your boat's equipment for safety and comfort.
• Fuel  - Although sailboats primarily rely on wind power, they still require fuel for auxiliary engines and generators.

Considering all these additional expenses, the true annual cost of owning a sailboat can range from $3,000 to $7,000  (Improve Sailing) . Keep these figures in mind when budgeting for sailboat ownership, as they can significantly affect the long-term costs involved.

Maintenance Costs

The cost of maintaining a sailboat can vary greatly depending on factors such as the size, age, and build quality of the boat. Typically, the annual maintenance cost for sailboats falls between $2,000 and $3,000, but can range from as low as $1,000 to as high as $5,000 depending on the specific needs of your vessel  (Improve Sailing) . For larger boats of 30 feet and up, these costs can increase significantly, potentially reaching $7,000 or more when considering additional expenses like docking and insurance fees.

It's important to keep up with regular maintenance to prevent future expenses from rising. Such maintenance tasks may include engine servicing, hull upkeep, rigging inspections, and sail assessments  (Better Sailing) . In some cases, annual maintenance costs can be estimated at around 10% of the boat's value, meaning a $30,000 sailboat may cost approximately $3,000 per year to maintain  (Life of Sailing) .

Some common sailboat maintenance expenses include:

• Haul-out and bottom painting
• Engine service and repairs
• Rigging inspection and replacement
• Sail cleaning and repair
• Electronics maintenance
• Hull cleaning and waxing

Keep in mind that the costs provided are averages, and individual sailboat maintenance expenses can vary based on factors such as usage, location, and owner preference. Prioritizing regular maintenance can help you save money in the long run by addressing potential issues before they become major problems.

SeaMag's Take

The cost of sailboats varies greatly depending on factors such as size, age, and model. New sailboats have an average price of $250,000, while used ones average at $111,000  [source] . However, older cruising sailboats in voyage-ready condition can be found for around $30,000  [source] .

An example of sailboat pricing includes a new Islander 36' costing nearly $150,000, while a used one can be around $40,000. A new 26' Catalina sailboat typically costs around $80,000  [source] . While prices can range from $1,000 for a small dinghy to over $1M for a new 50ft catamaran, it's possible to find a suitable sailboat within a reasonable budget  [source] .

Maintenance costs play a significant role in sailboat ownership. Annual maintenance costs usually range from $2,000 to $3,000 for most boats, while the total annual cost, including other expenses, could range from $3,000 to $7,000  [source] .

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The Ultimate Guide to Planning and Building Your Own Boat

Welcome to the ultimate guide to planning and building your own boat . Whether you’re a seasoned boat builder or a beginner with a passion for the open water, this comprehensive guide will provide you with all the knowledge and insights you need to embark on your DIY boat building journey.

From the initial design phase to the final construction steps, we’ll walk you through the entire process, offering step-by-step instructions and expert tips along the way. With our guidance, you’ll be equipped to create your dream vessel and experience the satisfaction of cruising the waves in a boat you built with your own two hands.

Are you ready to dive into the exciting world of boat planning and building ? Let’s get started on this nautical adventure together!

Table of Contents

Key Takeaways:

• Planning and building your own boat is an achievable DIY project.
• This guide covers the entire boat building process , from initial design to final construction.
• Expert tips and insights will help you avoid common pitfalls and achieve professional-level results.
• Choosing the right materials is crucial for the success and longevity of your boat.
• Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced builder, this guide has something for everyone.

The Pleasures and Perils of Plywood

When it comes to boat building, plywood is a popular choice due to its versatility and affordability. Many boat builders opt for plywood boat construction as it offers a range of benefits. However, it’s essential to understand the potential drawbacks as well. In this section, we’ll explore the joys and challenges of building a boat with plywood.

The Advantages of Plywood Boat Building

Plywood boat construction comes with several advantages that make it an attractive option for boat builders. These include:

• Cost-effectiveness: Plywood is generally more affordable compared to other boat building materials such as fiberglass or aluminum, making it an excellent choice for those on a budget.
• Easy to work with: Plywood is lightweight and easy to handle, making it suitable for both professional and DIY boat builders.
• Versatile design options: Plywood can be easily cut and shaped, allowing for a wide variety of boat designs and customization options.
• Strength and durability: While plywood may not be as strong as some alternative materials, it still offers sufficient strength and durability when used correctly.

Tips for Successful Plywood Boat Construction

While plywood boat building offers numerous benefits, it’s essential to be aware of certain factors to ensure successful construction. Here are a few tips from experienced boat builders:

• Choose the right type of plywood: Marine-grade plywood is specifically designed for boat building, offering superior resistance to water and weather.
• Properly seal and protect the plywood: Applying a high-quality sealant and protective coatings is crucial to prevent water damage and increase the lifespan of the boat.
• Follow proper construction techniques: Plywood boats require specific construction techniques, such as edge sealing, scarf joints, and proper fastening, to ensure structural integrity.
• Regular maintenance is key: Like any boat, plywood boats require regular maintenance to prevent rot, delamination, and other issues caused by moisture exposure.

To better understand the benefits and challenges of plywood boat construction , let’s take a closer look at a comparison between plywood and other common boat building materials :

This comparison highlights the unique attributes of plywood compared to other materials commonly used in boat construction. While each material has its advantages and disadvantages, plywood offers an appealing balance of affordability, versatility, and ease of use.

In the next section, we’ll delve into the process of designing your own boat , offering guidance and inspiration for those seeking a more custom approach to boat building.

Building Your Own Design

If you have a specific vision for your boat and want to embark on the exciting journey of custom boat building , this section is designed to provide you with valuable guidance. Whether you dream of a sleek and fast motorboat or a sturdy sailboat, designing your own boat allows you to bring your unique ideas and personal style to life.

Boat Design Process

The boat design process is a creative and analytical endeavor that involves translating your ideas into detailed plans. It begins with the conceptualization stage, where you brainstorm and sketch your boat’s layout, size, and overall design. From there, you’ll refine your ideas, taking into consideration factors such as functionality, aesthetics, and safety.

During the design process, it’s important to consider how you intend to use the boat. Factors such as the type of waters you’ll navigate, the number of passengers, and the purpose of the boat (fishing, cruising, racing, etc.) will influence the design. This section offers valuable insights from experienced boat designers and builders who share their expertise on boat design considerations .

Key Considerations in Boat Design

When designing your own boat , there are several key considerations to keep in mind. These include:

• Intended use and purpose: Determine the primary use of your boat and the specific features required to support that use.
• Size and layout: Consider the desired size and layout to accommodate passengers, storage, and any special equipment needs.
• Materials and construction methods: Choose the appropriate materials and construction methods that align with your design goals and skill level.
• Aesthetics and style: Define the overall visual appeal and style of your boat to reflect your personal taste and preferences.
• Performance and stability: Strive for a design that delivers optimal performance, speed, and stability on the water.
• Safety and regulations: Ensure your design complies with safety standards and local regulations to guarantee a safe boating experience.

Designing your own boat is a rewarding and fulfilling endeavor that allows you to create a vessel perfectly tailored to your needs. By considering these key factors and drawing inspiration from experienced designers and builders, you’ll be well-equipped to embark on this exciting custom boat building journey.

Choosing the Right Materials

The choice of materials is crucial in boat building. The materials you select will determine the durability, performance, and overall quality of your boat. In this section, we will explore the different types of boat building materials and help you choose the best options for your project.

Wood has long been a popular choice for boat construction due to its aesthetic appeal and ease of working with. However, it requires regular maintenance and may be prone to rot and decay if not properly treated. Some common types of wood used in boat building include mahogany, teak, and cedar.

Fiberglass is a composite material made of a plastic resin reinforced with glass fibers. It is known for its strength, durability, and resistance to water. Fiberglass boats are low maintenance and can withstand harsh marine environments. They are also relatively lightweight, making them suitable for speed and performance.

Aluminum is a lightweight and corrosion-resistant material commonly used in boat construction. It offers excellent strength-to-weight ratio and requires minimal maintenance. Aluminum boats are durable and can handle rough conditions, making them popular for fishing and recreational purposes.

Composites, such as carbon fiber and Kevlar, are gaining popularity in boat building. These materials offer exceptional strength and stiffness while being lightweight. Composites are often used in high-performance boats, yachts, and racing vessels.

When choosing the right materials for your boat, consider factors such as the intended use of the boat, the desired lifespan, and your budget. It’s important to balance performance, durability, and cost to ensure the success of your boat building project.

By considering the advantages and disadvantages of each material, you can make an informed decision and choose the best materials for your boat construction project.

The Boat Building Process

Building a boat requires a systematic approach that involves several essential steps. Whether you’re embarking on a DIY boat construction project or assembling a pre-made kit, understanding the boat building process is crucial for ensuring a successful outcome. In this section, we’ll guide you through each step, from setting up the backbone to the final assembly of your boat.

1. Setting up the Backbone and Framing

The first step in boat construction is setting up the backbone, which includes installing the keel, stem, and sternpost. These components create the structural framework of the boat. Once the backbone is in place, you’ll proceed to frame the boat, adding the ribs or frames that provide shape and support. This stage requires accuracy and attention to detail to ensure a properly aligned and sturdy frame.

2. Planking

After the framing is complete, it’s time to attach the planks to the boat’s frame. Planking can be done using various methods, such as using plywood or traditional wooden planks. Each plank is carefully fitted and fastened to the frame, creating the outer skin of the boat. This process requires precision to achieve watertight seams and a smooth finish.

3. Fiberglassing

To strengthen and protect the hull, many boat builders choose to fiberglass the boat’s exterior. Fiberglass provides additional durability, water resistance, and improves the overall structural integrity of the boat. This step involves applying layers of fiberglass cloth and resin to the hull, followed by sanding and finishing to create a smooth surface.

4. Interior and Exterior Finishing

Once the hull is complete, attention turns to the interior and exterior finishing of the boat. This includes installing bulkheads, cabinetry, flooring, and other interior components. On the exterior, you’ll apply paint or varnish to protect the boat from the elements and enhance its appearance. Finishing touches such as adding hardware, windows, and electrical systems complete the boat assembly process.

As you progress through each step of the boat building process , it’s important to follow best practices and consult reliable resources for guidance. Experienced boat builders can provide valuable insights and advice based on their years of experience. By executing each step with care and precision, you’ll be one step closer to completing your very own boat.

Tips and Techniques

Enhance your boat building skills with these valuable tips and techniques. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced boat builder, these insights from professional boat builders will help you improve your craftsmanship and achieve professional-level results in your DIY boat construction project.

Tool Maintenance

Proper tool maintenance is essential for efficient and precise boat building. Keep your tools clean, sharp, and properly stored to ensure optimal performance. Regularly inspect and replace any worn-out or damaged tools to avoid compromising the quality of your construction.

Paint Finishes

Choosing the right paint and applying it correctly is crucial for a beautiful and durable finish on your boat. Consider factors such as durability, UV resistance, and compatibility with the boat’s material. Follow proper surface preparation techniques, including sanding and priming, to achieve a smooth and flawless paint finish.

Scarphing Plywood

Scarphing plywood is a technique used to join two pieces of plywood together to create longer panels without compromising strength. Properly scarphed joints are crucial in boat building to ensure structural integrity. Learn the correct angle and length ratios for scarphing plywood and practice the technique to achieve strong and seamless connections.

Fiberglassing

Fiberglassing is a common technique used to reinforce and protect boat structures. Learn the proper techniques for applying fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin, including wetting out, rolling out air bubbles, and achieving a smooth finish. Understanding the fiberglassing process will help you create strong and durable components for your boat.

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Recommended Boat Building Techniques

By implementing these boat building tips and techniques into your project, you’ll enhance your skills and ensure the successful completion of your DIY boat construction . Remember to always prioritize safety, attention to detail, and the use of high-quality materials to create a boat that is both structurally sound and visually impressive.

In conclusion, this ultimate guide to planning and building your own boat provides a comprehensive resource for anyone interested in DIY boat construction. The guide covers the entire process, from initial design considerations to final construction techniques, offering valuable insights and recommendations from experienced boat builders.

Whether you’re a novice exploring the world of boat building or an experienced builder looking to enhance your skills, this guide equips you with the knowledge and confidence to embark on your own boat building journey. By following the step-by-step instructions and incorporating the expert tips shared in this guide, you’ll be well on your way to bringing your dream boat to life.

Throughout the guide, we have touched on important topics such as the pleasures and perils of using plywood, the benefits of designing your own boat, the selection of the right materials, and the various stages involved in the boat building process. With this comprehensive coverage, you’ll be empowered to make informed decisions and tackle each step of the construction with confidence.

Whether you’re interested in building a small rowboat for calm lake excursions or a larger cruising yacht for adventurous voyages, this guide serves as a valuable resource for all types of boat building projects. We hope that the information presented here has inspired you to embark on your own boat building journey and that you find great joy and satisfaction in the process.

How Much Does It Cost to Build Your Own Sail Boat?

Are you dreaming of owning your very own sailboat? The freedom to explore the open waters, the thrill of harnessing the wind’s power, and the tranquility of being out at sea are just a few of the reasons why sailing enthusiasts choose to build their own sailboats. But before you embark on this exciting journey, it’s important to understand the costs involved in building your own sailboat.

The Cost Factors

Building a sailboat involves several cost factors that you need to consider:

• Size: The size of your sailboat will greatly impact the overall cost. Generally, larger boats require more materials and labor, resulting in a higher price tag.
• Design: Whether you opt for a pre-designed boat plan or hire a naval architect to create a custom design, the complexity and uniqueness of your chosen design can impact the cost.
• Labor: If you plan on building the boat yourself, labor costs can be reduced significantly. However, if you lack experience or prefer professional assistance, hiring skilled labor will add to your expenses.
• Equipment and Tools: Building a sailboat requires various specialized tools and equipment. Factoring in these costs is essential for an accurate estimation.

The Estimated Costs

Giving an exact figure for building your own sailboat is challenging due to these variables. However, we can provide some rough estimates based on industry averages:

• Sailboat Kits: Sailboat kits are a popular option for novice builders. These kits typically include pre-cut materials and detailed instructions, making the building process more manageable. Prices for sailboat kits can range from $1,000 to $10,000, depending on the size and complexity of the boat.
• Custom Builds: If you prefer a unique design or have specific requirements, a custom build may be the way to go. Hiring a naval architect to create detailed plans and oversee the construction can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000.
• Labor: If you decide to hire experienced laborers for your sailboat construction project, labor costs can range from $20 to $50 per hour. The total labor cost will depend on the complexity of the build and the number of hours worked.
• Equipment and Tools: Investing in quality tools is crucial for a successful boat-building project. Depending on your existing tool collection and the specific requirements of your sailboat’s construction, you can expect to spend anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars on equipment.

Additional Considerations

In addition to the direct costs mentioned above, it’s essential to consider other expenses that may arise during the building process:

• Permits and Inspections: Depending on your location, you may need to obtain permits and undergo inspections during the construction process. These fees can vary, so it’s important to check with your local authorities.
• Additional Features: Consider any additional features or equipment you want to include in your sailboat, such as navigation systems, sails, rigging, and interior furnishings. These items can significantly increase the overall cost.

In conclusion, building your own sailboat can be a rewarding experience both personally and financially. While it’s difficult to provide an exact cost due to the many variables involved, considering factors such as size, materials, design, labor, and equipment will give you a better understanding of how much it may cost. Remember to plan your budget carefully and consult with experts in sailboat construction for accurate estimates specific to your project.

5 Related Question Answers Found

How much would it cost to build a sail boat, how much does it cost to live on a sail boat, how much does it cost to sail a sailboat, how much does it cost to buy a boat to sail around the world, how much does it cost to charter a yacht sail.

Daniel Bennet

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How to Build a Boat

If you want to know how to build a boat you've come to the right place, because that's what we did, learning as we went. She's called Alacazam , and you can see her in action in the picture above, charging through the Caribbean Sea off Montserrat. And we're going to take you through the entire sailboat construction process...

Jumping forward several years...

She was called 'Alacazam' , from the great Nat King Cole's song Orange Coloured Sky, and these are her vital statistics...

• Length overall: 11.5m (37.5 feet)
• Waterline length: 10.6m (34.5 feet)
• Beam: 3.9m (12.5 feet)
• Draft: 2.2m (7 feet)
• Displacement: 7,023kg (7.75 tons)
• Displacement/length ratio: 159
• Sail area/displacement ratio: 18.28

Of course you don't have to start from scratch as we did; there are a few other boat building options available that could save time and maybe cash too.

Whichever option you choose it's a very good idea to think the whole project through from beginning to end, as nothing can cause more disruption and additional cost than changing your mind halfway through a boat construction project.

It's an inescapable fact that cost and size are closely related, but not in a linear fashion as you might assume. If you double the length of the boat you're likely to increase the costs by a factor of four; and not just the build costs, but owning and operating costs too. Just wait until anti-fouling time comes around and you'll see what I mean.

Berthing costs seem to take a hike at around 12m (40ft) overall, and another at 15m (50ft), which was the final compelling factor in sizing our self-build cruising sailboat at 11.5m (38ft) on deck. This allowed for the anchor poking out at one end and the self-steering gear at the other, just in case any marina employee should get overzealous with the tape measure.

But where do you want to start? Here are your three main options:

• Buy an old, tired boat and completely refurbish her, or
• Buy a bare hull and deck moulding for home completion, or
• Start from scratch, and build the hull yourself.

We'll take a look at these three options in turn:

1. Starting With a 'Fixer-Up'

This can be a great option, particularly if you can get your hands on an old but tired pedigree boat with a proven reputation like the Ted Brewer designed Morgan 28 shown here - and you might just get it at an absolute knockdown price.

With luck, much of the interior will be salvageable, but you'll probably want to bring the instruments and electronics up to date, replace the rig and all the rigging, install a new engine and stern gear and replace the hatches and much of the deck equipment.

But you really should get a professional surveyor involved before you take up such a project. Explain to him carefully what your intentions are, and ask him to prepare his report with that in mind; it could save you a whole heap of time and money.

2. Starting from a Bare GRP Hull

This approach will get you off to a flying start, particularly if the hull comes with the deck moulding already fitted and the bulkheads bonded in. The problem will be in finding one, as few manufacturers seem to offer this once popular option these days.

3. Starting from Scratch

You need to take a very deep breath before setting off along this route - and believe me, I know, because this is how we built our custom designed sailboat Alacazam .

Unless you're building from an established set of boat plans, you'll be well advised to get a yacht designer involved at the outset.

And one of your first decisions will be the choice of hull material - fibreglass, steel, aluminium, ferro-concrete or wood - but which one, and why?

The Outline Requirements for our 'Ideal Cruising Sailboat'

My current boat at the time was a Nicholson 32 Mk10. Jalingo was a narrow hulled, heavy displacement, long keeled cruiser that I'd sailed thousands of miles - much of it singled handed (until I met Mary, who put paid to all of that self indulgence) - off the shores of the UK, France, Spain and Portugal, and to the Mediterranean and back.

Her hull shape and displacement ( Jalingo's , not Mary's) meant that she was comfortable in a seaway and great in a blow, but sluggish in light winds - and that keel meant she was a nightmare to handle in the confines of a marina.

Like all long-distance sailors we had a good idea as to what our 'ideal cruising sailboat' would be. I've always thought that a cutter rigged sloop is the ideal the ideal rig for a cruising boat, with a roller furling jib , a hanked-on staysail (easy to replace with a storm jib when necessary) and a slab-reefing mainsail with lazy jacks , as I don't trust either in-mast furling or in-boom furling .

Additionally she would:~

• have high resistance to capsize;
• be robust and easy to maintain;
• have good performance under sail;
• have a comfortable, easy motion underway;
• be easily manageable by a small crew;
• have sufficient internal volume for comfortable living aboard;
• be affordable to own and operate.

Did we know how to build a boat with these desirable characteristics? No, but we knew a man who did. Enter Andrew Simpson, yacht designer, surveyor and shipwright - and one of my best chums...

The Designer's Proposals for our Ideal Cruising Sailboat

We discussed all this at length, and made a number of sketches of both the interior layout and an efficient, workable cockpit .

Andrew did the number crunching and came up with an outline design for a 38ft (11.5m) cutter rigged wood/epoxy (cedar strip) water-ballasted cruising boat.

"She'll be light, quick, robust and comfortable" he said

"And seaworthy?" we asked

"Eminently so" he replied

"Right" we said, "Let's do it!"

And so we did...

So How Did We Build Alacazam ?

Here's the whole story, in words and pictures.

How to Build a Boat:

• Part 1:  The All-Important Preparation
• Part 2:  How to Build a Boat Hull in Western Red Cedar
• Part 3:  Sheathing the Hull in Woven Glass Rovings
• Part 4:  Cutting and Installing the Plywood Bulkheads
• Part 5:  Building the Interior Structure
• Part 6:  Constructing the Deck and Coach Roof
• Part 7:  Moulding the GRP Cabin Top
• Part 8:  Fitting the Bulb Keel
• Part 9:  Making the Rudder

Next: How to Build a Boat, Part 1

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Costs and Time to Build

The following cost and time figures have been submitted by builders. If a year of build was provided, we have included that information, otherwise the date of build is unknown so take that into consideration when estimating your costs. Remember, these costs will vary depending on the materials you use and prices in your area so please use them as a general guideline.

If the builder name is blue and underlined, you can click on it and you’ll be taken to the Boatbuilder’s Gallery section of our site directly to that builder’s boat or to a blog post or video about the boat.

Thank you to all who have contributed this information and if you want to add your build costs, please email us at [email protected]

Click on the letters below to to get to the name of the design you are interested in:

Alpha 2 – 18-1/2′ Classic Sailing Dory

Built by Robert Sanson – Finished in 2001. Total cost was about $3,500 and took 6 months to build. Robert Sanson – Saratoga Springs, NY

Andante – 38′ Semi-Displacement Cruising Yacht

Built by Don Bakker – I have been working on this project between 13 and 14 years and it’s just about complete! I’ve used high gloss mahogany throughout the entire boat, granite counter tops, teak flooring, underwater lights and camera bow thruster, Raymarine electronics, and auto pilot, it has an electronically controlled John Deere engine. I have a steel fabricating business with many employees that have made this project possible but so far have spent well over $250,000

Aqua Cat – 18′ Power Catamaran Overnighter

Built by Daniel Bucklin (Australia) – Total Cost/2009: $26,300 includes:

Wood, West System epoxy & SS Fastenings = $3500 Paint & Primer = $1000 Toughened Glass = $1500 Hydraulic Steering = $1000 Stainless Steel Fuel Tanks = $800 Twin Honda 50hp = $15,000 Deck fittings, hardware & upholstery = $1500

So, for about 26 grand I’ll have a boat that nobody can buy for any price because I made THIS one. One of the reasons that I decided to build the Aqua Cat is because of the unique design. I couldn’t hope to buy anything close to it in Australia and so the decision to build was clear.

Argosy – 42′ Cruising Yacht

Built by Foster Sparkman – Built in 1986 and it cost $23,000 with a Ford 135 HP Diesel. Foster Sparkman – Saugus, CA (Editor’s Note: This boat was for sale in 2006 for $250,000 but we don’t know if it sold)

Audeen – 16′ Classic Mid Engine Ski Boat

Built by Al Neil (Ontario, Canada) – I am in the process of building the Audeen. I have acquired just about all of what is needed and made maximum use of e-Bay when looking for parts. This has been good and bad. My recommendation if I were ever to do this again, would be to go new with all of the parts required. This of course would increase the cost dramatically but save a lot of time and problems. The material cost is of less importance then the amount of work and time involved.

My cost in building the Audeen should run in the area of $10,000 Canadian, (including a rebuilt engine). If anyone would like further info on this subject they may feel free to contact me at any time. E-mail address is “[email protected] “. Regards, Al Neil – Kanata, Ontario, Canada

Bandido – 30′ Inboard Deep Vee Runabout

Built by Scott Ure – Total build cost in the region of $60,000 which includes everything including the trailer (2010). I also think I have put in around 8,000 man hours into the project over the last 7 years or so, but this is a very rough figure as I did not keep a record.

Barrelback – 19′ or 20′ Classic Double Cockpit Inboard Barrelback Runabout

Built by Jim Peerless – 2017, Canada – I did not keep a time log but using a conservative average of hours per day over the 3 years that the project took to build I estimate over 3000 hours of labour were accumulated.

As to costs:  I did keep a record of all expenses related to the build and have converted to US dollars below. Naturally I tried to find the best price in our area for all parts and pieces while keeping the need for good quality in mind.  Had very little luck scrounging for anything as few of this design are built in this area.  However, this area is well known for excellent seaworthy fishing boats and sailing craft so I was able to select tried and true fittings suggested by experienced seamen appropriate for my vessel.  Almost all materials were purchased as brand new, including the engine & transmission.

Total cost of all things related to the build, including some new tools, all wood & epoxy, the engine, transmission, trailer and everything else….taxes included:  $50,400 U.S.

A breakdown of some of the more expensive items:

Engine & Transmission (Scorpion MerCruiser & Hurth Transmission):  $12,400

Wood (Douglas Fir and Marine Ply):  $4200

Epoxy (2 part West System):  $3000

Trailer (Tandem aluminum rated to 3600 lb. load):  $4600

Cutwater (fabrication and chroming):  $1300

Upholstery/Cushions:  $2000

Frankly, the boat cost me about double what I had in mind but, then again, such boats are selling for well north of $85,000 US in many cases, I believe.  You occasionally see a ‘deal’ for much less than that but they almost always require major and expensive restoration work.

Built by Gary Schoenfeldt –  The final cost of my Barrelback 19 came to $24,751.83.  This final cost includes many items that were needed for construction such as 2 canvas carports, tools I didn’t have and many other miscellaneous items. Luckily I was able to find a used Mercruiser V6 in excellent condition with all the marine equipment installed.  The engine cost me $1,500.00 which was quite a savings. If I hadn’t found this engine I would have had to add a few more thousand $ to the cost.  I was able to launch the boat this last summer on Lake Pend Oreille in north Idaho.  It operates like a dream.  It is so much fun to take it out.  Every time I take it to the lake it seems to draw people over who are amazed that it is a homemade boat and not a Chris Craft or some other brand.

Bass Boat – 15′ Bass Boat

Built by George Robertson – $8,800 – I believe it includes everything I bought for it, including $3,150 (approx. $6,800 value) for a brand new, still in the crate, Honda 40 hp motor I found at a dealer who was liquidating his inventory after going out of business. That’s a deal not everyone will find. George Robertson – Flint, TX

Bo Jest – 18′ Pocket Cruiser

Built by Rick Klemm – My Bojest (S.K. Ohana) cost approxn $20,000 Canadian dollars. Much of the solid lumber was scrounged. This includes the Motor, electrical, and trailer. At the Vancouver Boat show, I saw a comparable boat for $60,000. Cheers, Rick Klemm – Delta, BC, Canada

Bolero – 24′ Deep Vee Runabout

Built by Donato Conserva (Italy) – I can tell you that to build today (2012) the  “Boleroâ€, complete of all the equipment, interior and exterior, without motors, I think it need about 7,000 Euros (considering the cost of the material here, in Italy) and about 300 hours.

Bull’s-Eye – 11′ Skiff for oars, power or sail

Built by E-J Ohler – Cost (2002): $1,000-$2,000 for sailing version (however, I had a lot of the materials laying around)

NOTE: So adding everything up including buying the plan I probably spend close to $1,000-$1,200 for building a boat with my then young sons and one boat we still have which is priceless.

Cabin Skiff – 16′ Tabloid Cruiser

Built by Ray Macke in 2000 :

$2,137 – Building Materials – plywood, epoxy, bronze screws, FG cloth, etc. $1,206 – Hardware – nuts, bolts, seats, cleats, lucite, steering cable, etc. $703 – Electrical – wire, battery, fuses, etc. (includes instruments – got carried away here!) $329 – Paint – Including thinners, primers $104 – Disposable – paint brushes, gloves, coveralls, etc. $304 – Other – carpet, swim platform, etc. ( items many builders might not use $5800 – Engine ($5,000, Trailer $800) $10,638 – TOTAL

I know there are some receipts missing. I did a far job keeping track of most but I am sure I failed to get a few in the folder where I was filing them. I know many of the odds and ends from the local hardware store were missed. So probably rounding it off a $5000 would cover it all.

This sounds like a pretty good chunk of cash – and it is. But if you compare it to a similar craft like the C-Dory it is actually not too bad. The list price for the C-Dory 16′ cruiser is $11,800 for the hull. Don’t forget like the CS you still need to add the outboard and trailer. My engine ran $5000 and I probably have about $800 in the homemade trailer. A new 2 stroke 50 HP with prop and controller would probably run close to $4000. A factory trailer will be in the $1000 to $1500 range. At least these are the prices I was finding in the spring of 2000. Obviously, a used outboard and/or trailer is another option.

Built by Ed Skulski – 2015

Boat: Hardware & Accessories $2,068.37 (this includes all fasteners, cleats, bilge pump, steering system, etc)

– Wood – $1295.08

– Resin – $1475.27 (includes pumps, applicators, cloth, fillers, etc). I have to say I used way more resin then listed in the Bill of Materials. I believe that I did because of my inexperience working with it and being kind of sloppy.

– Misc – $756.47 Paint, window, canvas, etc.

Total boat cost – $5,595.19

Trailer cost – $1,003.52

Motor $6,389.69 (50HP Etec)

It took me approx. 5 years to build but I mostly worked on it during the warmer months and did not rush to get it done.

Hope this helps. I use the boat very often and keep it in the water at the Small Boat Harbor here in Buffalo, NY. Still get a lot of nice comments on it.  

Console Skiff  – 15′ 9″ Open Skiff with Center Console

Built by George Yannoulis (Greece) – Building Time: 480 hrs (with study plans) Material Costs: $1600.00 (inculding extra upgrade materials like chair skin, etc.) Outboard Machine Suzuki 40hp, 4 stroke (new) : $5,500.00 (2012)

Cracker Box – 15′ Inboard Speedster

Built by Don Fischer – 2017 – It took me 4-1/2 years, mainly winters, to complete. I used the best of everything, white oak frames, Sitka Spruce, Okoume plywood, West System throughout with almost no fasteners, used engine (305 Chevy V8), used transmission, used steering pump for the hydraulic steering system, extensive gauge package, pleated upholstery, used trailer, custom canvas for a total cost of $16,000 . I get the thumbs up wherever it goes. After building something like this you just have to keep it in the family and give it to one of the grand kids. I live on a lake and use this boat for a sunset ride every night if it’s calm. As you know, this is not a rough water boat. I also stretched it to 16.5 feet and I highly recommend this if you want a transmission.

Built by Brian Toth – took about 2 years to build and I spent about $6000.00 (2010).

Built by Don Fischer – Total cost for below—-$12,500.00

Built by Peter Randall – The total including engine, trailer and everything to get it going was about $17,000 Australian. I’ve been quoted around $35,000.00 by boat builders. Peter Randall – Lemontree Passge, Australia

Built by Alex Neymark – $44,000 includes motor & trailer, everything! Only top of the line materials were used including many custom made parts.

Dragonfly – 17′ 6″ Garvey Flats Boat

Built by Nikola Sijan (Serbia) – Dragonfly total cost will be somewhere less than $2500 EUR ($3000 USD). I am not building it alone, I have rented one company that charges me 500 euros for whole boat. Only modification that we have done so far is to make cockpit area a little bigger.

Drifter – 14′, 16′ or 18′ Driftboat

Built by Fred Haaf – T he cost of building my 16 foot Drifter including Plans, fiberglassing and paint was $2,750.00 canadian and took about 6-8 months.

Built by Terry Priser – I live in West Richland, WA.  I started my 14′ Drifter with your plans in September 2013.  I finished it in January 2014.  My cost of materials was around $1500.00.  I added a boat trailer kit for another $900.00.  So I would say the total was around $2,400.00.  

Duckboat Too – 14′ Duck Boat for Power

Built by Scott Winsor – 2017 –  I built a ‘Duckboat Too’ in Caberra, Australia. All up, the boat cost about $600 AUD to build.  All materials came from Bunnings, a popular Hardware store in Australia.  I used marine ply sheets and oak for the frames. Pine for the temporary timbers.  I used screws that are rated for treated pine.  I used Titebond III as the glue, which I ordered online.

The boat moved along quite nicely using a watersnake 54lb electric motor.  The experience of building a boat was very pleasant. I love a good project to keep my mind and hands busy.  The plans and instructions were easy to follow and making custom modifications was a breeze.  I’ll build another wooden boat soon and the first preference for design will be Glen L.

Dyno Mite – 11′ Deep Vee Runabout

Built by Eugen Frunza – 2016 – So far the cost is around 3000 Canadian dollars mainly for the plywood and epoxy, fiberglass, silica and microspheres, some wood filler and screws. Including a circular sander, clamps, sending paper, etc. I intend to buy a 10 HP new engine and this will be around 3000 Canadian dollars.

Probably it will cost me more than $7000 CDN the whole enterprise including a trailer as well.

Eight Ball – 8′ Sailing Pram

Built by Steven Sage – The Eight Ball (stitch and glue version) ended up costing me about $800.00. This was every thing from the plans through the sails and rigging. I didn’t fiber glass the hull but I did encapsulate inside and out. Used exterior 1/4″ Luan for sheathing. Steven Sage – Bland, VA

Built by Scott Richey – In the summer of 2009, I built an Eight Ball dinghy for less than $265. I built a pair of Eight Balls about 20 years ago, but they were stored outside the last 10 years and simply fell to pieces. I reused the hardware on the new dinghy, which helped to lower the price somewhat. I bought Arauco-ply plywood, 3 sheets (2-1/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch sheets) for about $65 and clear douglas fir for the longitudinals for about $30, plus another $18 for the oak rub rails. I used mostly Weldwood plastic resin glue (2 pounds for about $20). I bought fiberglass locally for $70 to cover the bottom and used polyester resin ($35) to apply it. Paint was latex for another $25. I live in Utah which makes getting quality boatbuilding materials a bit of a challenge.

Fancy Free – 21′ Trailerable Sharpie

Built by Michael Newbrough – 2017 – I built my Fancy Free for about $16,000 (counting sails, rigging, motor) & of course plunked in another $4-5 M for electronic goodies, interior fixtures, etc.   That’s over 3+ years. My pleasures in the building & several adventures since have made it all worthwhile…..

By Rock Spencer – 2016 – So far I have only purchased the plans however, I have researched the cost and I have a rough estimate.  I am planning to retire this year and I have built a shop to build the Fancy Free.  My father and I built a Westsail 32 in the 70’s and I wanted to repeat that experience on a smaller scale.  I am a cost engineer so I will keep detailed records of my cost, schedule and time and report it to you when I am complete.  I can tell you that it isn’t the cost savings that inspires me but the joy of the experience of building the boat. I also built concrete canoes in college for the ASCE races and the fun of working with so many people with varying boat building experience is worth the cost.

Fife – 12′ Stitch & Glue Rowing Boat

Built by Peter Ranson – I built the Fife in 2009. The cost, including fibreglassing the exterior was around 500 dollars Canadian. This does not include the oars. This rowing boat performs very well and has given me great pleasure rowing on the Ottawa River from April to December.

Flats Flyer – 18-1/2′ Florida Flats Boat

Built by Phil Coyne – 2017 – In Louisiana you have to keep track of all your costs and especially your receipts for parts and materials. The reason is that Louisiana wants you to pay state taxes on them. I purchased the vast majority of my materials online and no taxes were charged on most items. For instance the marine plywood alone was shipped here from Florida and inclusive of transportation was just over $3,000. Everything for the boat not purchased within the state had to have taxes paid, so again accurate record keeping was a must.

Total for the Flats Flyer all in with the motor and trailer and trolling motor was $23,500. (However the motor was right at $9,300 and the trailer another $1,400. The saltwater trolling motor was another $800). So for the complete hull, inclusive of the console which I purchased, $11,600. 

I put in approximately 1200 hours to complete the boat.

Flying Saucer – 12′ Classic Runabout

Built by Bill Levien : Total (2008) = ~ $8,000 Plans: $75 Lumber for Frames, Planking, & Misc: $750 4 Gallons of Epoxy: $450 Fiberglass Kit: $350 Fasteners: $150 Deck Hardware & Fasteners: $300 Paint & Varnish: $250 Interior “Stuff”: $100 Motor, Controls & Steering: $4500 Harbor Freight Trailer + Modifications: $550 Both still get complimented to no end when we take them out 🙂 Bill Levien – Pleasant Hill, CA (Bill built the Sea Kayak II also)

Gentry – 17′ Gentleman’s Runabout

Built by Neel Thompson – (about 2014) When I built “Scooter”, I didn’t keep track of the hours, but if I had to guess, 750 to 1,000.  And another thousand in the “thinking chair”.  I didn’t keep good records on the expenses either, but I think I have a fairly accurate estimate.  Somewhere around $25,000 total .  Keep in mind that I bought my motor (5.7 liter Merc, ZF 1:1 transmission) on Ebay for $4300 and I have a used trailer that I bought for $850 and put another $500 in it.  So if you add the additional cost for a new motor (around $5000), and the additional cost for a new trailer ($1500), that would put the total slightly over 30K using everything new.

Glen-L 12 – 12′ Sloop

Built by Steven Sage – $1800.00 – This would be for plans through the sails and rigging. Didn’t glass the hull but did encapsulate inside and out. Used exterior AB plywood for sheathing. I was fortunate to have a local lumber yard where I could get African Mahogany for $4.00 per board foot (cost has since risen to $5.50 per board foot), used local cut white pine for the mast and boom (wood was free, just had to go and get it). Steven Sage – Bland, VA

Built by Don Coe – I spent $2,607.45. This was in 2007. This does not include the trailer or the outboard I purchased. Nor does it include related travel (to your place), misc. supplies, registration, etc. It does include mast, rigging kits, hardware kits, fiberglass kits, and, most important, SAILS. OH YEAH! There was the lumber too. Don Coe – Reno, NV

Built by Carl F. Sevey – After working on the sailboat for several years, I completed it on June 25, 2003. Total cost (includes sails & mast) = $1554.02 I worked about 448 hours on my sailboat. The name of my sailboat is “Need-a-Breeze”.

Built by Carl Koski : Fir marine plywood was about $250 Wood for frames = $100 Epoxy, fiberglass cloth, glue, paint and hardware = $600 Mast, sail, boom and standing rigging were from a moth sailboat I built about 35 years ago. The jib is a used snipe sail for $100 Trailer from Harbor Freight Tools = $300 Electric motor = $150 2 lawnmower batteries = $50 Total = $1,550

I sail from Taughannock State Park near Ithaca, New York which is only about 4 miles from home. There is a bridge between the launch and lake so the electric motor is used to get to a sandy beach where I raise the mast.

Glen-L 13 – Simple Rig for single-handed sailing

Built by Jim Morris – I built a Glen-L 13 sailboat in 2004.  The total cost was about $3900, including a locally built trailer and sail.

Glen-L 14 – Lively 14′ Sloop

Built by Kenny Cooper – I spent about $4,000 building my Glen-L 14 “Katey Jane”.  I elected to use silicon bronze fastenings and to fiberglass/epoxy the exterior of the hull.  I already had the mast, boom, sails, standing rigging, barney post, and jib sheet cars/tracks.  I also had a trailer.  Though I had running rigging, I replaced most of it with new line. All of the bright work (seats, floors, etc.) are recycled wood I had on hand.

Built by Ross Lovie –  I started building in October 2008 and finished in April 2010.  I used Mahogany plywood for the hull and decks and got a great deal at a lumberyard in Tacoma at $33 per sheet for marine grade.  Most of the lumber I bought rough cut from local dealers and finished it myself to the desired width and thickness – this saved a lot on the cost of lumber.  I did not fiberglass the boat.

Glen-L 15 – 15′ Sloop

Built by Jim Bradford – Cost approximately $2500 and took about 7 months to build in 2010.

Built by Casey Sterbenz : Here is the breakdown of my costs for a Glen-L 15 built in 2008:

Plans, building forms, building cradle: $182 Lumber, plywood (Mahogony, Okume, Oak, Spruce): $2,156 Primer, paint, caulk: $605 Hardware (stainless steel throughout): $848 Epoxy, fiberglass (incl. fillers for gluing, faring): $401 Sails, rigging: $1,075 Miscellaneous (lead, rubber gloves, consumables): $133 Total: $5,400

The price listed includes the Sitka spruce used for the mast and boom, as well as for two sculling oars that I made from leftover spruce, oak and plywood. The price does not include the cost for a boat trailer. I bought as much as I could (hardware, sails, rigging, misc. stuff) from Glen-L. I live near Annapolis, MD so I have access to several outlets for materials, paint, hardware and like that which minimized shipping costs.

Time to Build: 800 hours – Casey Sterbenz – Crofton, MD

Glen-L 25 – 25′ Sloop with single or twin cabin

Built by Thomas Stuart – 2015 – Almost finished. Wood was a big factor and I purchased quality woods. I bought the rigging kits and sails from Glen-L. Used a 9.9hp long shaft electric start motor and all, I am estimating $20,000 Canadian.

I am going to modify the time it took to build because I’m in Canada and working outside with rain and snow slowing things down, plus I was injured and took 2 years off. General estimate would be 7 years working only a few summer months every day. Also, I diverged from the plans on the cabin and the added complication took a bit more time. Included in the costs, the boat has fresh water, two sinks, grey and black water tanks, electric water pump, propane tank, propane stove, stainless counter top, flush toilet, refrigerator with freezer, all the lights and electrics, solar cells, plus an electric winched centre board and solid brass portlights. All these details make for a nicer boat but it takes time and brings the costs up.

Hell Cat – 16′ Power Catamaran

Built by Garth Fawcett – June 28, 2018 – As have used and milled all my own timber and bought ply etc on the local trademe, the cost without the motors was about about 3,000 NZ dollars, built as a boat for my wife and me to go fishing so hence I put a cabin on it for protection against the weather.

Imp – 10′ Flat Bottom Rowboat

Built by Bernie Melican –  2014 –  Approximate costs:

Lumber – $600

Fittings & hardware – $200

Adhesives & epoxy – $250

Total = $1,050

Time  60-75 hrs over 3 months

Built by Tom Winningham – I built the Imp a couple of years ago for a friend (approx. 2007). I believe we had about $800 in it, and we were being very careful with money. The plywood was marine, but we cut some corners with some of lumber. It was covered on the bottom with fiberglass, and then painted carefully. It has held up just fine outdoors for 3 winters (and summers) now. This was a great first project and very fun–good preparation for building something else. You could probably get an aluminum boat for the price of building this, but this is much nicer and much more enjoyable – a very good winter project. He added a trolling motor (not in the price). I enjoy your web site – keeps me thinking about building another boat. Thanks, Tom Winningham – Downers Grove, IL.

Jimbo – 16′ Garvey Hull

Built by Larry Wilson – (plywood version) – The cost for this boat was $11,455. This cost does not include the motor, trailer, nor the electronics I’ve installed such as a compass, fish finder, etc.

It took me 4 years but a year and a half of that I was spent recovering from 2 operations. I fiberglassed the exterior, added 3 built-in ice chests and 2 live bait wells, 2 built-in storage compartments, one on each side of the motor well, 4 built-in rod holders, 4 built-in cup holders and a bilge pump. The entire aft decks, side decks and bow decks have 1 inch wood blocking underneath. I installed 2 inches thick flotation foam under all of the floor boards and under the side decks and used pour in foam around the built-in ice chests.

Built by Matt Teter – (aluminum version) – Strictly talking about the production of the hull the cost was $1980 for material. Standard marine grade  and 6061 extrude parts. I did make a few changes to it. I used heavier gauge for the chines,  put a water tight storage box in the bow. I shorted the motor well a little to give me more free board. I have most of the tools I used. Did a lot of cutting with a circular saw with carbide blades. Works good.

Key Largo – 19′ or 20′ Classic Double Cockpit Inboard Barrelback Runabout

Built by David Vangsness, Riverside, CA – Costs to build are just under $20,000 which includes the motor, a GM 4.3 L Vortec V-6 marine engine and Borg Warner transmission.

I am now finished, and I may have missed a few odds/ends over the course of the project, this is pretty accurate. As you can see from my spreadsheet we are at $19,918k, which does not include a custom built double axle trailer from Pacific Trailers of Chino.

I have been working on the boat for 6+ years, which seems like a long time. However, I have a wife, 3 kids a mortgage and full-time job, so this is definitely part-time work! As I’m sure you’re aware, building time is very much subject to the time available and skill level of the builder. I have been a serious woodworker for 20 years and have a pretty comprehensive shop. However I have never built a boat, so considerable time was dedicated to researching things before I bought or cut them up. This adds to the time needed. That said, I have no doubt a skilled retiree could build this boat in a year or less. I intended to do a “timeline” as well, but that fell away early.

The money tracking is pretty accurate though and everything has been purchased at retail with no real “inside sources,” just internet comparisons and personal preferences as to what components I wanted. I don’t feel I cut corners to save money per se, but tried to be careful with costs, so I think this is a pretty good base to use for others wondering what one of the Mahogany designs might come to.

Another advantage to taking 6 1/2 years is that $20k over 72 months is just around $275 a month, so the costs are spread out!

Kidyak – 9′ Kid-Sized Kayak

Built by a Third Grade class in the Pacific Northwest – The boat building project was priceless in what my students got out of it.  They learned to read plans, measure in inches and feet, lay out lines, measure twice before cutting once and cooperation when it came time to choose colors to paint it. The cost was just under $100.00 (the paint was donated by parents) Built in 2010.

Built by Phil Storey (UK) – Prices are approximate, but I bought enough materials to build 2 Kidyaks (although I have only completed one at present – 2nd one finished by the end on July 2009 hopefully) and the total materials came at around £170 pounds sterling for both craft. I have to say these are brilliant canoes for youngsters up to 9/10 years of age – they are very stable and easy to paddle – my 6 and 9 year sons both absolutely loved them. Regards, Phil Storey – United Kingdom

Kona Kai – 25′ Deep Vee Fly Bridge Cruiser

Built by Charles Newbold – It took approx two  years (2002).  It was powered by a Mercruiser V6 210 HP. Total cost for materials was  about $17,000.00.I also built the trailer to handle this boat.

Little Hunk – 18′ Flat Bottom Pacific Dory

Built by Court Robinson – It’s useless to put a price on building–use the bill of materials to estimate using local materialss when possible. In building, the cost savings are not the benefit. The real benefit is the recreation and educational aspects. I have no idea of the actual hull costs for my Little Hunk but sure enjoyed the experience. Court Robinson – Orillia, Ontario, Canada

Malahini – 16′ Classic Runabout

Built by Keith Laidig – I built my Malahini over about 2 years, working weekends and evenings (with LENGTHY periods of lazy, lazy inactivity). I kept a blog of my progress for the family – http://seanova.org as well as a candid account of the many, many, many mistakes and my efforts to fix them.

I kept reasonably close track of costs during the process and I found the boat required ~$8000 to finish out, I got the motor for another $7200 and the trailer was ~$500 or so (total = $15,700).

I really enjoyed building that boat.  It runs well, turns heads (which really isn’t my thing) and make me happy whenever I look at it.  As soon as I get more garage space, I’m going to start the 14′ sailboat…

Built by George Redden – I kept a detailed record of time and material during construction. Total cost (rounding to nearest $100) was $15,200, consisting of: 60 HP 4-stroke Murcury – $5800 Trailer – $1800 Wood (including Joubert mahogany plywood at $50 a sheet and Honduras mahogany planking) – $1900 Coatings (Interlux paint/varnish, Glen L fiberglass) – $1200 Hardware – $700 Boat stuff (steering, controls, upholstery, gauges, etc) – $3600 Supplies (like sandpaper) $200 Time – about 1300 hours

It could have been built at a considerably lower cost (maybe $11- to $12,000) using lower grade material, less of it, and a used trailer and motor.

Discounting the value of time, I could have bought a decent classic mahogany runabout or a nice, nearly new 17/18-foot fiberglass bowrider for about the same money, but preferred building over restoring and liked having everything brand new. I always thought building it was exciting, entertaining fun and never work, so if I charge for the entertainment I had, maybe the boat was free??? Plus the many, nice compliments I get are priceless.

I’m thinking of a Glen L 17 sailboat and the cost per foot would be considerably less. George Redden – Staunton, VA

Built by John Loken – I own two boats, The one I built is the one I prize the most.

I kept no detailed records pertaining to money or time. I can tell you 1 year part time, and about $15,000 including a new 60 Merc. 4 stroke and new trailer.

I enjoyed building it and take great pride in it then and now. My Malahini elicits compliments everywhere it travels. One great advantage is the lighter weight over fiberglass. My Malahini resides in New Jersey and has traveled by trailer for vacations as far south as Florida and as far north as New York Lake Chaplain and the NY canal system. This fall it will be going fishing in Canada. Tow vehicle is a mid size SUV.

Another advantage, the money outlay is spread out over time. My other boat is a 25′ Trophy and I cannot recall ever being complimented on that boat–it’s just another boat!

Built by Alan Bates & Dad – I built the 16′ Malahini Classic runabout in Brisbane, Australia in 2006/2007. I didn’t keep a record of the total hours on construction, but the total build time was 9 months (with my father and I working on it), including 2 weeks full-time, and pretty much every weekend. No work was done at night.

I didn’t spare any cost on materials either, as I figured that the material costs were small compared to the hours that I put in on the project!

The total cost was $21,000 Australian dollars (about $18,900 US), but this included a new outboard motor and trailer, and the costs of registration and insurance for the trailer and boat for the first year.

The major costs (in Aust. dollars) were: 50hp Tohatsu Outboard (new) inc. Installation – $6,000 Custom made trailer – $2,500 Custom wrap-around windshield – $1,800 Teak & Ash veneer decking – $1,000 Twin stainless steel 40 litre fuel tanks – $700 Mahogany steering wheel – $250

All timber frames were Hoop Pine (probably a little better than Douglas-fir), and the marine ply was A-A Hoop Pine sheets. So you can see that the timber, epoxy, fibreglass, paint, chandlery, anchor, all safety gear and registration and insurance was less than half the total cost. By the way, when we turned the hull off of the form we weighed it. It was 133kg (293lbs).

Performance: Top speed with full fuel tanks, and carrying two adults and two children is 67 kph (42mph).

Minimaxed – 8′ Stitch & Glue Mini-Speedster

Built by Bob Spiess  – $250-$350 is a good guess. I used marine fir plywood, glass tape, epoxy throughout, designed and built my own steering, and used all of your hardware. It took about 2 weeks to completely build it but time was spread over 4 months due to very little free time. The boat and engines are the same as I had when I grew up in the 1955-1960 time period.

The Glen-L plans were excellent and am planning to build another Glen-L design this winter. The engine is a fully restored 1949 Mercury “Super 5” I just finished. I also just finished a 1955 Mercury Mark 6 restoration that will soon be tested on this boat. Speed is 15+ mph with me in the boat (240 lbs), but faster with some of my less weighty family. Bob Spiess – Griswold, CT

Minuet – 18′ Overnight Sloop

Built by Rob Myran – $5,000 for everything, including how-to books from Glen-L and Sail-Rite kit sails–No real savings over buying finished sails from Glen-L, but my goal with this project is to build everything I can myself.

Built by Nick Adams – I finished building my Minuet in 2006, and up to $4,000 kept careful track of costs; I estimate about another $3,000 was spent after that, including costs for all rigging, sails, hardware, etc., but not the trailer, which I also built myself from Glen-L plans and cost me about $2,000.

So, all told, about $9,000 Canadian (about $8,535 USD as of 2/24/2010) . The work went fairly quickly until we turned the hull, and then at a crawl after that. Other events intervened between when I started the project and when I finished it, so it would be difficult for me to give much of an estimate of the total time it took. But it’s a slow process compared to, say, finishing your basement. Also, I struggled at times just trying to decipher the instructions. But it was a rewarding project, and people who see the boat are amazed that I built it myself. Nick Adams – Winnepeg, Manitoba, Canada

Built by Joel Block and Kathy Lucas – 2015 – It’s been a year and a half since Kathy and I finished our Minuet â€œSpirit of Jessicaâ€. Kathy and I bought our plans in late summer of 2011, started our Minuet  project in September 2011, and launched â€œSpirit of Jessica†on May 11, 2013. Most of the work was completed in the final 11 months.

We used wood from a traditional lumber yard (quality stuff!) We used Mahogany for combing boards, hatch boards, and some of the more visible cockpit boards. We never could afford any teak. The bulk of the boat was built of quality Douglas Fir as that was the cheapest wood that was recommended in the plans.

I found the mast on ebay for 75.00 and only 150 miles away!

The trailer was found in Texas as well as the sails from a Coronado 15.  600.00 for all…

The motor is a NEW Mercury 2.5 because I didn’t want to deal with someone else’s engine problems…..   900.00

We kept all receipts for our project because we were curious, AND needed to show Texas that we actually built it ourselves… 

Our Minuet bottom line (2013 dollars): $7200.00    (boat, sails, rig, trailer), 900.00 (motor)

1300 hours of time–WELL WORTH every penny AND second spent!!!

Miss Chris – 26′ or 28′ Classic Triple Cockpit Inboard Runabout

Built by Steve Gould – I’m nearly done building Miss Chris. My guess is I’m close to $40,000 in material including a 5.7 Mercruiser engine with reduction gear. I’m spending a lot of the finishing work. It will have painted topsides but varnished decks. My guess as to time is more than 1200 hours at this point.

Monaco – 19′ Classic Inboard Mahogany Runabout

Built by Robert Carr – My son and I are in the process of building the Monaco; we are careful about expenses especially the wood; we estimate $10,000 without the motor. Robert Carr, Brooklyn, NY

Built by Alan Close – I have bought new in most cases but taken my time to shop around before purchasing. I have also tried to support Glen-L. Some scrounging is involved and I am doing everything, i.e. marinising engine, upholstery, cutting brightwork veneers, welding, etc.  One thing I have learnt is that it is not the big items that add up, it’s the little ones.  Total estimated cost: AUD$19,425

Built by John Gondek – Total cost for my Monaco – Sixty Plus was about $24,000 including motor – custom built by myself at a cost of over $13,000 including custom heavy duty Velvet Drive Transmission. I shopped very carefully for everything and feel I saved at least $3000 – $5000. John Gondek – Parkersburg. WV

Built by Garry Stout – The engine/trans combo is by far the biggest expenditure I made on my boat. For convenience, reliability and performance reasons I chose to purchase a brand new, factory built marine engine (Indmar) with a new transmission as well. This engine/trans combo costs $7,500. Those who choose to scrounge a junk yard engine and rebuild it themselves can do so for FAR less than purchasing new. Another area of some notable expense is the trailer. Again, I chose to go the top of the line route buying a brand new, all aluminum trailer. Even with a good discount this trailer cost $2,800. Scroungers can find a suitable used steel trailer for under $700. The third item of significant expense is the upholstery. I chose to sub-contract this out to a professional upholsterer as I’m hopeless with a sewing machine. Using high quality “starboard” for seat and ceiling backing boards, and using marine grade seat foams, naugahydes and carpeting has run me about $5,000. Those who can sew themselves and will be satisfied with “builder grade” materials, can do so for much less.

So………having said all that, I have a total of $40,000 into my Monaco, completed. This includes every single nickel that went into the project. My bookkeeping philosophy was if I spent the money and it was related to building the boat, then I counted it. Every nail, screw, staple, piece of sandpaper, new blade for the table saw, etc. is included. I’m probably at the top of the price list compared to other Monaco builders, but I wanted this boat to last a lifetime and did not scrimp on any materials. I hope this helps. Garry Stout – Odessa, FL

Built by Bill Yonescu – Built two boats at $19,000 each in 2000 and covers everything, including 1K$ for the final clear coat spray (done in a booth by a local auto body shop) and 1K$ for the upholstery (done by a local auto upholstery shop), 1K$ for the complete windshield, $500 just for the bow light. 1K$ for a fancy CD-Stereo system with Bose speakers, separate amplifier and powered subwoofer and dash mounted remote. There is a digital compass, a digital depth-finder, and other fancy gold plated gauges (Faria) that were more expensive than may really be required. I used a custom 40 gal fuel tank ($350), about $500 for 10 coats of 2-part polyurethane clear as a pre-finish to the final spray, $500 in epoxy. About 1K$ for the underwater gear (available from Glen-L) and propeller. (I used a chromed rudder, strut and stuffing box.) $200 for a Mahogany steering wheel.

The bottom is 4 layers of 4mm Okoume plywood (approx 12 4×8 sheets) ($400) Sides – 2 layers of 3mm Okoume plywood (8 sheets ) ($300) with a final layer of 1/4″ mahogany ($500). Deck – 5 sheets of 3mm Sepele plywood ($350) over 4 sheets of 9 mm Okoume ($250) The bottom got 3 coats of epoxy, 3 coats of 2-part barrier paint, and 2 coats of white bottom 2-part epoxy paint. Sides and deck were stained, covered with 3 coats of epoxy then the 10 coats of 2-part poly, sanded and sanded and sanded and then the final spray coats. The stringers were laminated out of 2 and 3 layers of 3/4 fir. Engine logs solid 4″x4″ mahogany. The engine/transmission cost approximately $7K. All hardware was stainless steel. Other items make up the rest.

All these number are approximate. I wanted the nicest boat I could build and didn’t spare expenses. There would be lots of ways to cut costs and still have a very nice boat. Bill Yonescu – Palm Beach Gardens, FL

Monte Carlo – 24′-6″ Classic Triple Cockpit Mahogany Runabout

Built by John Amundsen – Total cost, aproximately $21,350. Everything is either completed or already purchased. I scrounged heavily for everything. eBay and Craigslist were searched daily for the deck hardware. And of course lots of Glen-L epoxy. The boat ran great–way better than I expected.

Outrage – 16′ Deep Vee Ski Boat

Built by John Wilmot – $4,400 includes $1500 for a used 90HP motor, $600 for steering and $300 for seats. John Wilmot – Edgewater, MD

Built by David O’Krepka – $4,000. Please keep in mind I modified it from a 16′ to a 19′. The boat is one of the favorites of all the people I meet on the lake. After it was done I added so many extras. This is my 3rd season using it and it’s Great!!! (July 2017)

Pirogue – 13′ Stitch & Glue Cajun Canoe

Built by Ron Krueger – The total cost was over $800 ($480 or so to Glen-L for plans, materials etc. and about three months part time to complete.

Power Skiff – 12′ or 14′ Stitch & Glue Power Skiff

Built by Greg Hamilton – I have $3900 in materials just in the hull complete including paint and decals and all hardware. I used nice mahogany for trim work, inner and outer keel and side supports. All plywood was marine grade Okume to keep it light in weight.

Built by George Yannoulis (Greece) – Plywood: 1 sheet = $40.00 (okume) bought in Greece (I preferred to have your plywood type because I believe that it is better suited) Glen L – Silica : $110.00 ( including postage) Plans, Instructional DVD : $176.00 Sheer 4 : $25.00 Steering: $75.00 – $ 150.00 inox Bow Eyes: $12.00 Bronze Set (2 items): $50.00 Transom Handles: $40.00 each Paintjob 750ml per 9 sq meter: $44.00 Anti-Fouling auto clean protectant ( for boat duralbility in water) 6 month treatment : 3/4 litre : $55.00 Outboard Machine ( second hand) 15hp: $1000.00

Built by Mike Hadfield – My first attempt at building one of your designs was the 12 foot skiff, stitch and glue method. I used exterior grade ply rather than marine grade to keep costs down in case I messed up. It took about 3 weeks to complete, taking into account moving it in and out of the garage (we have small garages over here), but in reality with enough space you could almost start it Friday night and have it in the water for Monday! In terms of cost a similar boat new would probably cost upwards of 800 pounds (about $1233 USD) but new wooden boats are not common, most going for grp. Basically I got our little boat in the water for less than 200 pounds (about $308 USD) and we have been using it for about 3 seasons, it goes very well with a 4hp and 2 adults. I can honestly say any one should be able to follow your plans, you can spend as much as you like but you’ll still end up saving a fortune on buying the equivalant new or even used. Mike Hadfield, Cornwall, UK

Built by Dennis in Australia – About 15 years ago I built the Power Skiff 14  with European plywood, etc.  In today’s costs approximately $450.

Poweryak – 17′ Electric Powered Stitch & Glue Kayak

Built by Dan Hennis – 2015 – Well, I just did a full accounting of the Power Yak project. There was a bit of waste in bad paint, redone deck, etc. But the end result was worth the effort. I am sure I could shave 25-45% off the costs if I did it again today. Also, please understand, this is a complete package that I just sold.  And that included the new motor, charger/maintainer wired in, E-meter, and a host of other extras.  Well here is the number…

$2,485.17 +/- $20 for stuff I can not find receipts for.  Then there is the custom trailer…  It came to $517.00 +/- for lost receipts.

That is a cool $3,002.00 +/-.  That means the education and labor paid me $798.00 (he sold it for $3800 on Craigslist).  I promise to do better on the next one… 😉

Although the finished result is more of a work of art than a working pleasure boat, this may not be the best ad for your site.  It might be an example of an extreme though.

I have built many, many projects in my career, but the thing I can say about this, is it has been a joy to build from start, to finish. I have never had the feeling it was a drudge or a tough thing to do. And to add to that, I never expected to ever ride in it… If I do get even one quick ride, that will be a few moments of ecstasy.

Riviera – 20′ Classic Inboard Mahogany Runabout

Built by Dave Lott – 2009 – 850 man hours (crammed into 1 year) at an expense of $22,000 including trailer.

Built by Mark Bronkalla – My cost numbers are a bit dated as they are from 1999-2000 when I built my Riviera. I came in at approximately $19,500 including trailer. I did a fair amount of scrounging and searching to hold to that price. I could easily have spent another $5000 if I was not careful (engine, trailer, lumber being big items). There were also a few things I bought at the time and never used that are not included in the budget. I still have 3 sheets of mahogany ply wood waiting for a “good project”. At one point I had a bag with all of the receipts in it, but I was not as careful about putting everything in there that I could have.

I have a budget page with some of the numbers filled in at: Not complete, but it does give folks an idea of some of the major cost items and quantities (e.g. number of sheets of plywood). Mark Bronkalla – Waukesha, WI, www.bronkalla.com — 50 mph furniture

Rob Roy – 14′ Stitch & Glue Canoe

Built by Francois Theron – I built a “Rob Roy” canoe about a year and a half ago (2007). I didn’t keep an accurate record of the costs but from memory I would say it cost me between $300 and $400 (Australian) excluding the plans.

I want to make use of this opportunity in commenting you on your website, it is a great resource and contained a wealth of knowledge. I am already dreaming about my next project and would this initiative of providing an estimate of total cost of different boat designs be just what I need to compel me into some action. Regards, Francois Theron – Australia

Rowme – 12′ Rowboat

Built by Alf Judd – It was completed this year over a two month period – June and July 2018  – at a cost of $1500.00. This doesn’t include the motor.

Built by JR Holder – I used your kits for the epoxy and other stitch and glue materials. I purchased Honduran Mohogany for the lumber and British marine plywood. I covered the exterior with two layers of fiberglass that I got from NAPA Auto Parts. The outside of the boat was painted with green gelcoat and the mahogany was finished with Sea Fin Teak oil. The total cost was just under $2000 and it took me about 10 weeks to complete. These costs are slightly higher than most because they are delivered to Fairbanks AK. J R Holder

Saboteer – 10′ Sailing/Rowing Pram

Built by Francois Frigon – I just wanted to inform you that I successfully completed my Saboteer in April 2011 for a total cost of $2,500.  This included Mahog, Okoume ply, fiberglass, paint (bottom & side), sail & rigging.

The boat sails great under sail and 5HP motor (did not try rowing yet).  When using the mast, make sure you properly secure the base of the mast to your bow knee with a stop washer. This was a nice experience for me and I feel confident in building my next boat!

Built by Dennis in Australia – I’ve built 2 of your boats, both small. Last year the Saboteer, approximate cost using the best materials, epoxy etc.  $350  (With out mast and sail).  Building the Saboteer over the jig was the most gratifying.

Scrambler – 15′ Outboard Whitewater Sled Boat

Built by Rick Herrick – I built the “Scrambler” last winter (2008). Cost of building was approximately $1,500.00 in lumber, and $450.00 for bronze fasteners, epoxy, and fiberglass cloth. The boat really handles well, I just got off the river an hour ago and had more than a couple people come up and ask me about the boat including the sheriff who was out on safety patrol. All said it looked like a wonderful design. Thanks Rick Herrick – Sedro Wooley, WA

Sculling Skiff – 17′ Recreational Rowing Skiff

Built by John Crill – From you I bought the plans and the hardware kit for the sliding seat. I bought marine ply from a supplier in England (I live in France but the marine ply is cheaper and better, no voids, in England) and also the epoxy. All the mahogany came from a local staircase manufacturer who sells a tightly paced skip of imperfect wood 10feet by 4 feet by 3 feet for about 100 dollars or about 1.20 dollars/cubic foot. A real bargain. All of the wood is hardwood, some is slightly warped but most of it is only imperfect for making staircases – fine for cutting into narrow strips for boatbuilding and laminating. I bought the sculls at a car boot sale (garage sale) for 30 dollars. They’re beautifully made by one of France’s top racing skiff builders and they just needed stripping and revarnishing, 5 coats.

For much of the build I used polyurethane glue as it is pretty tough and simpler to use than epoxy, but everything is epoxy coated and the boat also has a layer of fine glass roving. I modified the deck design by lengthening it both ends and glassing in a bulkhead to make waterproof caissons. There are a lot of idiots in France in big motorboats who don’t look behind and realise how big the wash they are making is, and I didn’t want to get drowned! If I get too much water slopping in, I might fit a sailing dinghy’s self bailer.

I think that the total cost including the items I bought from you is about $650 to $700 but this includes the epoxy and there is quite a lot left. Best regards, John Crill, France

Sea Kayak – 17′ Touring Kayak

Built by David Lott – I completed the Sea Kayak about a year ago (2008) at a total cost of $220. Working on the Riviera now and keeping track of expenses. David Lott – Branson West, MO

Built by Donato Conserva (Italy) – I’ve spent, including everything, 700 Euros and 90 hours. (2012)

Sea Kayak Two – 19′ Touring Kayak for Two

Built by Bill Levien: Sea Kayak Two: Total = ~$1,000 Plans: $106 Plywood: $150 4 Gallons of Epoxy (S&G + Sheathing): $450 Fiberglass Tape: $50 Fiberglass Sheathing: $80 Varnish & Paint: $80 Hatches: $40 Misc Screws & Hardware: $60

NOTE: I made SKII out of 1/4″ plywood since I couldn’t’ get 4mm locally… Kayak is fast and straight loaded with me, wife and dog but it’s a little heavy to transport so I used a $200 Harbor Freight Trailer but replaced the short tongue with a 16′ tongue ($45 from local metal supplier) and built custom bunks so it’s much easier for my wife and I than securing it to the roof.

Both still get complimented to no end when we take them out 🙂 (Bill also built the Flying Saucer) Bill Levien – Pleasant Hill, CA

Sherwood Queen – 15-1/2′ Mini Tug

Built by Clark Johnson – I extended my Sherwood Queen 10% to 17′ overall and she was built of the best materials I could find. Mahogany Plywood was $75 per sheet, old growth Douglas fir 2×6 grade “c” select for framing (beautiful straight clear grain, no knots in the entire boat). SystemThree epoxy and fiberglass sheathing. Engine is a 15 hp Mercury bigfoot with power tilt and electric start. Trailer is the only real bargain as I found a used trailer for $600 that was perfect for my boat. I painted the boat with several coats of Polyurethane floor and porch enamel. Also installed a fishfinder with speedometer and temperature. Total expenditure was a shade under $7000 (built 2006-2007)

The actual build time would have been longer for most people as I am a retired carpenter and have a large shop full of good tools. This also is the 5th boat I have built. Clark Johnson – Laurel, MT

Ski Tow – 15′ Ski Boat

Built by Mike Aronson – Over the last two years I built a Ski Tow (2006-2008). You may remember that I am the guy that built this boat with my Dad, when I was in high school, way back in the 1960’s. My Dad has passed away and since I am now retired, I decided to attempt to build the same boat, on my own. I struggled from time to time but I finally finished the project. The boat turned out pretty nice and it performs very much like the original. I put a 50 HP Honda on it and it moves along, close to 40 MPH. The cost was approximately $6,400 for materials, paint, varnish, electrical, gauges and controls, etc. The motor was $6,100, so the total was $12,500. Mike Aronson – Holland, MI

Squirt – 10′ Runabout

Built by David Streeter – I built the Squirt in 2008 as a Jet Boat 11′-8″ long. The boat is all epoxy encapsulated mahogany and Marine Mahogany Ply. The Jet power is from a Kawasaki 75SXI I purchased on E-Bay for $600.00. My total cost was a little over $5,500.00 which I think is pretty reasonable for the best and fastest little runabout in Charlotte Harbor. BTW I never could have done this without all the info available on your site.

Built by Pamela Lynn (for jet power) – $3235 including the motor and pump which cost $250. I could have spent less if I had not used mahogany for my stringers, sheers and chines. Or more if I wanted to double plank the deck with mahogany and go for new controls, motor, etc. (2011)

Built by Larry Madison – In response to your request, I am getting close to the end of my Squirt build. I think it will be just under $4,000 and I still haven’t bought a trailer or trailer hitch. I already had my outboard motor from another boat.

I have about 250 hours in, and I’m sure I have another 40 or 50 to go. Thanks for all you do to encourage and support us.

Built by Rich Stabler – I built the Squirt that you have on your web site. I’m glad you are doing this and I might add everyone building a boat or for that mater anything you have to license should keep a spread sheet of the item cost and the tax you paid for that item. When it comes time to visit the DMV office they will ask you to place a value and on it and you can show you have paid the tax along the way. A simple break down for ours was as follows.

Wood- Oak, Mahogany, and Sheet Goods: $550 Epoxy & Fiber Glass Cloth- $450 Primer, Paints & Varnish- $250 Mechanical- Steering, Shift & Throttle, Speedometer: $365 Upholstery- Foam & Vinyl: $110 Electrical- Lights, Switches, Wire, Bus, Bilge Pump: $260 Hardware-Windshield, Cleats & Chocks, Thru Hull Fittings, Motor Pad, Link Arm, Latch: $870 Various- Fasteners, Brushes, Rollers: $200 Motor with Control Box: $650 Trailer- $750 Licensing- First time Trailer $50, First time Boat $67 Our grand total was $4,900, keeping in mind I was after the “LOOK”, Still having FUN! Rich Stabler – Pouslbo, WA P.S. The Zip I’m building as its big brother look-a-like is coming along, I hope to have it completed late summer.

Built by Graham Knight – I kept a close record of my building costs, and in total she cost me £1600 to build in 2004, that included the outboard motor which I bought on eBay for £71 and the cost of restoring it too. I did manage to keep costs down by using quite a lot of reclaimed timber and offcuts from work, and was able to get my marine ply at near trade prices, even so I was amazed at how cheap it worked out in the end!

I sold her a couple of years ago for nearly £3500, the £1900 profit in no way accounted for the work that I’d put into her, but I reckon any profit at all on a used homebuilt is pretty good. Graham Knight – Shepperton, England

Built by Paul McMillan – I completed a “Squirt” in June of 2008 and estimate my cost at $2200 Canadian funds, less the motor. I used Philippines mahogany for the framing and plywood, bought a new steering assembly but the motor controls I was able to purchase used. Someone with more experience may save a couple hundred dollars as I did ruin a sheet or two of plywood! Paul McMillan – Ontario, Canada

Built by Don Wood – I built a Squirt using the kit. The total cost including 9.9 Motor with remote electric start and trailer was $4500.00. The motor was purchased from Small outboard .com, Trailer from Harbor freight. Great planing boat and have had a great time running up and down the Delaware River. Love your products. Would like to build the Zip for my next boat. Don Wood – New Jersey

Built by Terry McIntyre – I built a jet version of the Squirt, in Northern California. I went kind of high-end – the boat is completly “bright finished” in quarter-sawn mahogony, fiberglassed inside and out, has professional tuck-and-roll upholstery, and meets AYBC standards for equipment, lights, and electrical system. Including the donor jet ski (550 Kawasaki) and new trailer, I spent just over $7,000 .

It took me 3 years working on and off, and I’ve probaly got in excess of 1000 hours in it. An awful lot of that was the “Bright finish” and getting all the jet mechanicals right. I think a “normal” Squirt would be substantially less in both cost and hours spent.

Stiletto – 16′ Ski Boat

Built by Pamela Lynn – I currently have $3137 in the Stiletto and will have another $500 or so in a used Johnson 85 HP including the controls. Another $200 should finish the steering. The total should be around $3800 or a little more. A brand new motor would have brought the price to about $10,000. (2012)

Super Spartan – 10′ Hydroplane

Built by Jamie Crocker – Total cost = $1,013 as follows:

Sweet Caroline – 20′ Traditional Dory/Skiff

Built by Duard Swain: Sweet Caroline materials total year 2006 was $960.00 included: pressure treated marine fir plywood pressure treated pine framing bronze oar locks and oars Glen-L fastener kit epoxy and filler 5200 paint boat is not fiberglassed Duard Swain – Washington, NC

Tahoe – 19′ to 24′ Classic Double & Triple Cockpit Inboard Runabouts

Built by Gerald Hurst – I am building a Tahoe 23 (stretched to 24′ 4″) and have logged 1230 hours thus far. Bottom and boot top painted and sides ready for stain and varnish. Have spent $13,900 on materials including strut, shaft, shaft log, rudder and misc. paint, etc. Have steering wheel, steering system, throttle, and other misc. items. Engine and transmission will cost additional $11,000. Have some mahogany in stock, but will need a little more to complete interior, seating, and deck. Will need cutwater and other hardware, rubrail, windshield, and upholestry. Would be foolish to try to estimate the final cost, but hope it is less than $40,000. Great fun and therapy for what ails you. I hope to create a show piece…..and as you know, it takes time. Gerald Hurst – Jacksonville, NC

Built by Bill Edmundson – Built to 20′-6″ and cost Approximately $47,000 (completed in 2008). That includes about $17,500 for the new turbo diesel engine, $1300 for upholstery from a custom shop and $3,400+ for a new aluminum trailer. I used 316 stainless fittings everywhere I could. See my detailed spreadsheet for the breakdown. Bill Edmundson – Pelham, AL

Tango – An 18′ Trailerable Overnighter Sloop

Built by Robert Oswald – I am building the Tango and am in the $8-$10,000 range now with more expenses to come (sails, motor, paint, etc). I think the argument that it is cheaper to build a boat misses the point of the exercise–I certainly could have gotten a very nice used boat of this size or larger for half of what I will spend on this boat. The important point is that I’ve enjoyed building it and hope that I will have something very special at the end of this long process (about 3 years).

Tiny Titan – 8′ Hydroplane

Built by Ken Roy – I built the Tiny Titan. Cost was $600. Mahogany frames, marine plywood and okume decking, I used your nails and screws and West System epoxy. This price does not include engine or steering gear. Ken Roy – North Andover, MA

TNT – 11′ Runabout

Built by Nick Roccaforte – I just completed your TNT in 430 hours. Material costs were $1,850 and construction was all mahogany framing, Okume marine plywood planking, single cable rack & pinion steering and custom upholstery. No motor. Really “sharp” looking. (2010)

Built by Pete Ahlqvist – A few years back I built the TNT and all told with your plan set, galvanized fastener set and aluminum fin, the price was less than a $1,000 Canadian, and that includes the West epoxy system I used,(very pricey(. But I must add that I did have some of the framing material on hand. I used aircraft grade fir, so it’s a little heavier than it could have been, but the results were more than satisfactory. The motor wes a 40 mariner magnum i got for $800 CDN the tank was a fancy 12 gallon one and I also purchased a single cable steering rig with wheel and 2 seats. So all told I pretty much have $2000 CDN into it. Pete Ahlqvist – Wanless, Manitoba, Canada

Built by Andy Bangsberg – I spent about $3,000 on the TNT: $560 for frame kit $500 for epoxy and hardware $500 for Marine plywood and Mahogany $200 for upholstery $750 for engine and controls (73 merc 20 hp short shaft, electric start, controls) $250 for paint, thinner, primer (Interlux Perfection) $300 for misc supplies, hardware etc. http://www.bsehosting.com/get/tnt/bizweb.asp I started in Jan of 2006 and finished in July of 2008 Andy Bangsberg – Cumberland, WI

Being built by Tim Fuchs & Sons – My sons and I have been building a Glen-L TNT for 1-2 years now on and off. We’re really working hard on it now between School work and other things. Prices are in Canadian funds: We started by ordering a frame kit from Glen-L which gave us quite a jump on the project – Approx $430 The materials for all the framing I purchased rough cut lumber that we cut and planed to correct size. The rough cut mahogney cost us approx $300 The sheeting for 5 core 1/4″ waterproof was $65.00/sheet x 5 sheets = $325 The West System epoxy was approx. $200 up to now Stainless Fasteners = $130 Mercury 25 hp 1999 = $900 Teleflex steering = $600 Controls = $500 Total so far = $3,385 ($3,211 USD as of 2/24/2010) Time is something I did not keep track of as my boys and I have had fun doing this project. We have already started our next project the Tunnel King from Glen-L.

Built by David Blanchard – It has been a few years since we built the TNT but back then it ran us $2900 Canadian which included the seats and steering. David Blanchard – Brockford, Ontario, Canada

Built by Tim Mueller – I built a TNT from about 2008-2011. Cost was roughly $2300 which includes plans, materials, paint, epoxy, seats, gauges, and Teleflex steering. Does NOT include motor, tools, & supplies. I used all marine plywood (1/4 mahogany planking) and African mahogany frames. I epoxied the interior and exterior and fiberglassed the exterior seams.

Tubby Tug – 9′ Tugboat for kids of all ages

Built by Bill Hodgdon –    It was significantly modified for a round stern and a folding hardtop. The design changes took time to plan, but no cost. The top rail is wooden, shaped to look like rope (took time, no cost). I hand-made the six fenders and bow pudding (took lotsa time, little cost). I used quality marine plywood, not home depot exterior ply. It was fiber glassed inside and out using epoxy resin. It has full navigation lights, bilge pump, hand pump bellows air whistle, and other little details. It was further modified for electric power.

So….. it took me about 180 hours and cost about $1000, not counting the power plant (motor, batteries, charger, circuit breakers, etc). The power plant (a new 65# thrust Minn Kota electric trolling moter, two 12v AGM batteries, heavy wiring, dual charger, etc) added another $1500 to the cost.  So, my Tubby tug cost a total of about $2500 (2009) . My wife says it was well worth every penny (it’s HER boat) ! And of course, she’s right!  It’s used nearly every good day, often taking the 7 mile trip around the lake here. It safely runs for over 6 hours on a charge. Great little boat!

I have built over a dozen boats now. I could probably build a minimal standard Tubby Tug here, with cheaper materials, not glassed inside and out, in less than 40 hours work time, for a cost of about $400, not counting the powerplant. Almost half of the cost is for the epoxy stich & glue supplies. I can get a used 4hp engine around here for about $100, which would bring the total Tubby Tug cost to about $500.  

Built by Butch David – I spent about $2,000 (including trailer) and about 120 hours building the Tubby Tug. I hit a few unexpected expenses when I began adding on a few features that were not part of the original design. A few learning experiences would reduce the build time by at least 20 hours. Most notably, Phoenix heat made the epoxy set too fast, and I had to sand more than I should have. Future builds (and there will be) will be done in wintertime or in an A/C garage so I can better manage epoxy!

Built by Robert Greco – $1500 without motor

Built by Erik Roadfedt – I spent approximately $2000 on a Tubby Tug build. That’s for the boat w/hardware following Glen-L directions without modification. A new Minnkota 55 lb. thrust trolling motor @ $250 and used trailer off ebay.com @ $300 were extra. I used the best material I could find, including your epoxy kits, okoume plywood @ $90/sheet, white oak for the rails, bumpers, and keel, and mahoghany for the pilot house. All paint and polyurethane is marine grade. The project was affordable for me because the costs were spread out over two years. Thanks and keep up the great work, Erik Roadfeldt – Duluth, Minnesota

Built by Kevin Brown – Took 100 hours over 4 months. Kevin Brown – Flowery Branch, GA

Built by Doug Wade – I just completed my first boat build, a Tubby Tug. I will send pictures and a write up after launch when I can get on the water pictures. I went over the top in this build using all marine wood and finishes. Including fire monitor and pump plus running lights, battery, solar panel, windows, horn and so on–the cost was very close to $3000 Canadian. My time was well in excess of 400 hours but this is a guess because I did not record time and each and every hour was a pleasure. I have a new Suzuki 4 stroke 2.5 hp motor on order (appx 1000 Canadian with taxes) and I assembled a Harbour Freight trailer to move the boat. Doug Wade – Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Tuffy – 13′ Runabout

Built by Allan Gillis – Cost: $13,600 This breaksdown to $9000 for new motor, $400 for steering, $3000 for boat, $1200 for trailer–all prices are in Canadian dollars as of 2006 (US equivilant in 2009 is about $12,600)

V-Dory – 22′ Dory with vee bottom forward

Whitehall – 17′ traditional rowing craft.

Built by Howard Bergholtz – (Strip Planked version) Total cost of materials, tools & hardware & plans = $6,554 (2011)

Yukon – 36′ Cruising Yacht

Built by Glen Zwicker –  I do get many positive reactions, which are due to the classic beauty of the design as much as to my own handiwork.

Built by Tom Schmidt – I’m building the Yukon, stretched to 40 feet and a raised pilot house added, and have completed around 90% of the construction. I mostly have interior work left to do. At this point I have approximately $100,000.00 invested in actual construction costs. This includes twin Perkins diesels with all the instrumentation and most of the electrical components. I bought two Perkins core engines and built them up from bare blocks, and then I modified them by putting a Bowman marine conversion kit on each engine. The total cost for each engine was right at $7,000.00 complete. The engine room is complete. I estimate another $15,000.00 will finish the boat and cover moving and launching expenses. Electronics will be extra although I already have some of them bought. Tom Schmidt – Frostproof, FL

Zip – 14′ Classic Runabout

Built by Joshua Burks – See his YouTube Channel

Total cost of the Zip as of today (July 2017)  $8900

Est. total cost when complete $10,000

Total hours to build as of today 734

Est. Total hours when complete 875

This cost includes a used outboard that was in non-running condition that was easily and cheaply repaired ($600 total in outboard) it also includes the trailer which was bought very cheaply and modified to fit the Zip perfectly, total into the finished trailer $500. Because i am still semi-young over $1000 dollars of my total is in a monster stereo (pioneer deck, kicker mids and tweets, kicker 10″ subwoofers and a 1000 watt kicker amplifier….it is loud!)

Cost is a very difficult subject, a lot depends on material used, for instance I bet if one used rock bottom approved materials you could probably shave $1000 off my cost, minus the giant stereo save another $1000.

A lot also depends on skill or ability as well as available tools, i have $600 I added to the cost of my Zip buying tools alone–if a builder already had them there is less cost yet. Finally my favorite…… ability, as labor goes up costs come down, for instance I built my stainless cutwater,  transom bands and motorwell cutout cap myself, I only have $100 total in materials for all four pieces, but well over 30 hrs. Of labor building these, if a person didn’t possess the resources or skill to do this themselves they would have to pay someone else bringing labor down but cost up. No experience repairing small motors…….a non running cheap outboard is out, real spendy brand new outboard is the only option and cost goes way up while labor goes down.  Thank you for all of your fantastic products, amazing website, and lifelong memories.

Built by Andre Aukes – I built a Glen-L Zip in New Zealand in about 2015.  Marine plywood is hard to find in NZ unless you live in one of the big cities even then it be rather expensive.

In short it cost about $3000 NZD (+-2200 US) for all the lumber (African Mahogany) and Plywood (mix of local stock and African Gabon).  Price does not include outboard engine but the Zip is fitted with a new 30HP Mercury two-stroke which pushes the boat with a family of four towards 25KN.  Build time about one year of weekend work (total work hours 300+).  

Built by Keith Hills – I am very particular about costs and time to build my Zip. I am not finished yet but I can tell you that the hull cost me AU$4,628 plus 340 hrs of time. This was from start to righting the hull, including fibreglass and bottom paint.

Built by Eben Traywick –  I built the Zip it cost $3,500  counting the 20 hp mercury and thank you for your great plans!

Built by Jerry Lindamood – I built the “Zip” boat in 2008, motor and trailer for under $3500.00. This was scrounging for parts, buying used whenever I could, including the motor and trailer.

Built by Robin Thomas – I built the Zip in  about 10 months of sporatic effort for total cost of about  $1000 (Canadian) includes motor and controls and trailer.

Built by Robert Greco – The ZIP cost about $8500 not including motor and trailer–build in 2009

Built by Rolando Perez – As per my expense log, here’s the hull cost for the Zip “Pawprint” that I built. All the materials were sourced locally except for the plans and the bronze boat nails. Hull cost includes plans & patterns, plywood, lumber, fastenings, epoxy & fiberglass external sheathing, paint and consumables. Excluded are trailer, motor, deck hardware and steering & control systems.

In 2005-2006 Philippine Pesos: PhP 24,863.60.

At current 2009 prices with inflation factored in, it would be about PhP 29,836.32 (equivalent to US $623.15 at the current exchange rate). Rolando Perez – Philippines

Built by David Brown – Built the Zip using mahogany and 5 ply okume 8 x 12 sheets, Glen-L epoxy and fiber glass. I remember the total cost including the jig and all screws, etc., was $945.00. This was in 1988……if i remember. David Brown – Meridian, ID

Built by Robert Pinske – $2700 Canadian–doesn’t include the motor. Took 350 hours to build. Robert Pinske – Canada

Built by Pierre Gadbois – Took 500 hours of work over a six month period. Pierre Gadbois – Westbank, BC, Canada

Built by Todd Broadlich – Total (2009): $11,500 (includes motor & trailer)

Built by Shane Dickinson – the total cost for my zip build was $9000 (Canadian) with motor and new trailer, in total I spent 7-8 months working time. Shane Dickinson – Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Built by Jeff Peters – 2013 – Total for all material including a donor boat (that I got a Merc 45 hp motor, trailer, Steering and controls from) was $8555.00. I did not keep track of the hours it took to build.

Glen-L Marine Designs

232 avenida fabricante #105, san clemente, ca 92673, www.glen-l.com, 562-630-6258, one response to costs and time to build.

[…] Another component to the decision  is how much it will cost and how long it will take. We have a listing of these figures that was compiled from feedback from our builders on our website here. […]

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How to Build a Budget to Buy a Sailboat

Table of Contents

Last Updated on August 28, 2023 by Boatsetter Team

Budgeting is key to financial soundness. It should come as no surprise when buying a new or used sailboat that setting a budget for yourself is the way to go! In fact, buying a new or used sailboat can often include expenses beyond the initial price at the sale. Factoring in both one-time and up-front fees and ongoing costs is key to smooth sailing through boat ownership.

Post summary:

• Boat registration

Maintenance

Boat insurance.

• Interest (if financing)

Commissioning

Upgrades & repairs, rigging & sails servicing, accessories.

Find sailboats for rent near you at Boatsetter

Registration or documentation

Sailboats may be registered via the DMV or documented via the U.S. Coast Guard. The DMV is a recurring fee, while documentation is generally higher but is charged only once. The boat’s size, complexity, and price will have a bearing on which of these is applicable.

Good news: Sailboats are built to use wind power; therefore, they use very little fuel. However, the bigger the sailboat, the more you’ll need to rely on the engine to move it in light air and to dock it in tight spaces. Sailboat fuel bills are fairly meager since they use small, single engines. Still, depending on use, you’ll need to budget a few hundred dollars per year.

You must keep your sailboat in a wet slip or on a trailer. Both options can be pricey, although if you keep the trailer on your property, you’ll save money. Slips are hard to find. In some parts of the country, you can expect to pay well in excess of $30 per foot of overall length per month for a marina slip. You may need to add metered electricity and water to the monthly slip fee.

Sailboats aren’t a set-it-and-forget-it proposition. They require near-constant cleaning and care, including washing, varnishing, polishing, waxing, bottom cleaning, painting, etc. You can DIY some of these efforts, but that time comes at the expense of actually boating.

Motorized boats– even if they’re sailboats– must carry insurance coverage. The annual charge is usually 1% or more of the purchase price. The insurance cost is influenced by factors such as the boat’s value, size, intended usage, and the boater’s experience.

Interest when financing a sailboat

If you finance a sailboat purchase, keep in mind the interest rate! Financing fees may run hundreds of dollars each month depending on the initial price. Financial experts say paying more than the minimum on a loan is the best way to combat climbing interest rates.

Commissioning typically (but not always) applies to new sailboats; however, if you truck, tow, or deliver a used sailboat on a ship, it will need to be assembled with its rig and other equipment, called commissioning. A broker or dealer will usually perform and charge for this work, which can cost thousands of dollars.

Maintenance includes only the routine tasks to keep a boat in good condition. To repair equipment breaks or upgrade features like electronics, refrigeration, batteries, etc., create a separate budget. And, don’t forget to consider labor costs and installation.

Your sailboat’s sails and rigging will need servicing. Masts and booms need to be inspected and painted periodically, the standing rigging will need to be tuned or replaced, sails and control lines need to be cleaned or replaced, winches need servicing, and sail covers wear out with use and the elements. The bigger the boat, the more these items will cost.

Be careful not to get too carried away with this fun-spend. You’ll want handheld electronics, apparel for foul weather, extra lines, chart upgrades, safety gear like harnesses, and many toys. You’ll need an extra budget to truly enjoy sailing just like you would with any other passion sport. Check out our list of the 7 Best Sailboat Accessories !

Owning versus renting

The cost of sailboat ownership can sometimes be 20% or more of the initial purchase price. So, for a $100,000 sailboat, expect to spend another $20,000 annually for its management. Another way to go boating is to charter or rent. You enjoy sailing for a week or day at a time at much-reduced costs. Don’t give up on sailing if buying isn’t right for you right now.

Instead, consider renting from a peer-to-peer boat rental service like Boatsetter ! Raise the sails on a bareboat sailboat where you’re the skipper or hire a large yacht with a captain and chef and relax on the foredeck sunbed while sailing on a lovely beam reach. No matter the fee, you’ll spend less overall than taking the plunge into sailboat ownership.

More content on sailing:

• How Sails Work: Understanding the Basics
• Sailgating 101: 7 Ways to Throw a Great Tailgate Party on a Boat  
• Top 10 Sailing Destinations to Explore in 2023

Boatsetter is a unique boat-sharing platform that gives everyone— whether you own a boat or you’re just renting — the chance to experience life on the water. You can list a boat , book a boat , or make money as a captain .

List your boat & start earning an avg. of $20K yearly with Boatsetter

Zuzana Prochazka is an award-winning freelance journalist and photographer with regular contributions to more than a dozen sailing and powerboating magazines and online publications including Southern Boating, SEA, Latitudes & Attitudes and SAIL. She is SAIL magazines Charter Editor and the Executive Director of Boating Writers International. Zuzana serves as judge for SAIL’s Best Boats awards and for Europe’s Best of Boats in Berlin. 

A USCG 100 Ton Master, Zuzana founded and manages a flotilla charter organization called Zescapes that takes guests adventure sailing at destinations worldwide. 

Zuzana has lived in Europe, Africa and the United States and has traveled extensively in South America, the islands of the South Pacific and Mexico. 

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Building Your Own Boat

BUILDING YOUR OWN BOAT

Anyone can build a boat, all you need is the right information.

Choose a design. Browse through our designs and decide which boat you would like to build. Be realistic. If this is your first attempt at building a boat, you probably don’t want to start with a 55-footer!  That said, it may also be the only boat you build, so choose something you want and will use. 

Purchase the Plans and Patterns. If a study plan is offered, you can start with that. There may be some terms in the plans that are unfamiliar. See our online glossary of boat building “lingo”. 

Consider going “by the book.” We suggest you get a copy of our book “Boatbuilding with Plywood” if your design choice is plywood,  or “Fiberglass Boatbuilding for Amateurs” if your choice is a fiberglass design. If you build a plywood boat and decide to fiberglass the exterior (recommended but optional), we also suggest our “How to Fiberglass a Boat” book & DVD combination offer . 

Order the Glen-L kits to simplify your project . We truly want to make it easy for you to build your own boat. Our fiberglass/epoxy, fastener, and stitch-and-glue kits provide you with exactly the material quantities you’ll need. We purchase our products in large quantities so we can offer our kits at very reasonable prices. For more information about our kits, see the About our Plans & Kits section of our website. To see which kits are offered, just go the particular design’s product page. Please Note: Our Kits do not include any lumber because it’s much more cost effective to purchase materials local to you . See our List of Lumber Suppliers to find Lumber and Plywood suppliers near you.

Gather tools needed. Boatbuilding does not require exotic tools (unless you wish to use your project as an excuse to your spouse to get all those neat tools you want!). A table saw is nice, but definitely not necessary. Basic hand tools are adequate as well as a bunch of C-clamps. For specifics, we have a short article all about what you’ll need.

Visit the Boatbuilder Forum . If you want to increase your confidence level or have questions, you will want to visit this forum often. This is a great place to ask about specific designs, modification options, and other technical questions.

In addition to the above, this website is a treasure trove of information. Most questions are probably answered in the various sections of our site. Now go build something real, something you’ll love—something from your own hands!

frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to build a boat

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I can’t find marine plywood, can I use AB plywood? That’s all my building supply center carries.

Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997.

Home   |  Intro   |  Our Design Process   |  Stock Design Info   |  Motor Yacht Designs   |  Sailing Yacht Designs   |  Prototype Designs Plans List   |  Articles   |  Our CAD Design Stream   |  Maxsurf   |  News..!   |  SITE MAP..!   |  Site Search   | Design Team   |  Contact Us Please see the  AVAILABLE BOAT PLANS web page

What Will It Cost...? The Most Commonly Asked Question Copyright 2008 - 2016 Michael Kasten It is for the most part entirely foolish to even be dragged into trying to answer this seemingly simple question...! However in order to address this question, below is an essay that expands upon an inquiry regarding the cost to build one of my designs...   WHAT WILL IT COST...? Cost to build a boat or to have one built is by far the most common question I am asked. But it is a question for which there is no simple answer.  This might seem odd, but consider the following: It is very difficult to pre-guesstimate boat building costs, especially prior to a design having been created. Prior to the plans having been developed, the vessel is merely a twinkle in the prospective owner's eye. It would be the height of folly to even attempt a guess at build costs until sufficient detail has been created, ordinarily in the form of Estimating Plans . The purpose of first developing a good set of Estimating Plans is to thoroughly outline the structure, the layout, the rig, and the intended equipment and outfit so the builder will know what is intended. Without this vital tool, any discussion of eventual costs is nothing more than a pipe dream...! Without sufficient information about what you intend, the builder that you have contacted - even if they may be very familiar with boat building - will inevitably have a different "vision" of the vessel in their own mind than the vessel you actually intend. Without a well-developed set of plans and particulars in hand, there can be no reliable specifics with regard to cost. In the case of a pre-existing design, even if a completed set of Estimating Plans already exists it is still not possible for me to know the cost to build the boat because a new owner's requirements will always differ.  If a preliminary estimate is offered, it can only be provided in very broad terms, which by their very nature will be at best entirely wrong, or at worst extremely misleading. Only the prospective Boat Builders themselves will be able to determine the boat's cost.  But they can only generate a reasonably accurate cost estimate after they have been able to review the design in detail, and for that they will require a complete  set of Estimating Plans.  Even then, the builder may still envision a different level of finish than you do. Over the years, we have seen such 'sharp pencil' estimates come in all over the map. We can only attribute this to differences in builder efficiency, builder overhead, local labor costs, builder skill and the like, but also differences in how they may have interpreted your wishes. Thorough communication is the key to getting an accurate estimate. That is why we take the trouble to provide a detailed Vessel Specification, as well as a 'Designer's Cover Letter'.  Together with the core design drawings, these documents explain to the builder the scope of our involvement in the design process, and to outline the level of support that is available during construction (for example whether there will be NC cutting files, etc.).   Included in our Estimating Plans is an 'Owner's Cover Letter' template, wherein you can outline what you expect of the builder in terms of the scope of completion, your proposed build timing, the level of high finish, and any other factors that might impact the Builder's cost estimate.  If you'd like to know more about developing Estimating Plans for one of our prototype designs, or a custom design that you have in mind, the process of creating a new design is outlined well at our Custom Design web page.  If you would like to review a list of Estimating Plans for one of our existing designs, please see our Plans List web page.  Please do take the time to read the Introduction on that page so that you understand why there is a wide cost disparity among the plans on offer...!   AN EXAMPLE... In order to illustrate the variables that affect the eventual cost of a boat, I would like to use my Redpath 44 as an example. I designed the 44' Redpath for myself, as a replacement for my own 34' schooner Emerald .   As designed, the Redpath 44 was exceedingly simple. In way of explanation, I am probably a bit extreme in the pursuit of simplicity. For example, on my 34' schooner Emerald the entire electrical system was contained within my flashlight..!   There was no wiring. The Sabb diesel engine was started by a hand-crank - there was no electric starter.  Running lights each had their own batteries.  A self-contained radio for time ticks and weather.  In the mid-80's when I completed Emerald, the final price tag was under USD $35,000.  Except for the help of an occasional volunteer, I built the entire boat myself.  I could easily have built the boat for less. I admit I wasted money on stuff that I shouldn't have. For example I added a sealed-cell lead acid battery to run a car stereo. This 'system' was also self contained with a small battery charger to plug in when dockside. I considered the stereo to be an extravagance. On the other hand, I got a terrific deal on very high quality hand-stitched Dacron sails from Carol Hasse's sail loft in Port Townsend.  The sails would probably cost ten times as much these days, so I cannot complain. In fact, the boat was finished very nicely inside and out. The rigging was simple, strong, and highly effective. Maintenance was no trouble. In all, it was a great deal of fun. Most of the reason for this is that the whole boat was exceedingly SIMPLE . A lot has changed since then, in particular my age, and of course the value of the US dollar has diminished greatly over the last 30-some years with respect to materials and labor. However if I were to repeat that same adventure now (2016) with my Redpath design, building in steel, using CNC cutting for the structure, and using my own labor for fabrication, I'm quite certain I could achieve a similarly appointed vessel with a bone-simple electrical system (or none) for less than USD $150k or so. That said, I am probably no longer willing to do 100% of the work myself as I had done on Emerald , so I would likely hire the hull built professionally, or would at least hire helpers to assist with fabrication. Assuming a North American venue for construction, and assuming the structure would be NC cut, that might add something on the order of USD $50k to $125k or so for the fabrication labor, plus maybe $15k or so for the blasting and painting labor. At that point I'd still have the fun part ahead of me, i.e. the joinery, the rigging, and the other (simple) system installations. This means, roughly speaking, that I could probably build the Redpath 44 for around $150k + $50k to $125k + $15k, or approximately USD $215k to $290k. That is for a 100% brand new vessel, fully outfitted, but very SIMPLE. This cost assumes I will provide all of the labor to finish out the completed and painted hull, deck and house.  Since that cost is considerably more than I could possibly afford, I would do my best to beat that price, for example by providing more of my own labor during fabrication and painting.  But as a rough guide it is about right for what I'm certain could be achieved. If the hull were built in a lower cost venue it would reduce the overall cost - possibly by a lot - and could possibly allow me to actually afford it. The result would lack nothing in terms of elegance and grace! If the Redpath 44 were to be professionally built to a 'turn-key' stage of completion the cost would of course be greater. One Redpath 44 was built in New Zealand in steel during the early 2000's to a very high standard of construction, an extremely fine finish, and just about every bell and whistle imaginable including flat screen TV and all the latest navigation and communication equipment. The price tag..? It was offered by a broker on the US East Coast for over $800k, which was presumably less than its original construction cost. A few photos of that boat are on the Redpath web page.  It is an extraordinarily fine yacht - and no doubt worth every penny..! However... if built with a vastly simpler approach to equipment and outfit (but no less elegant a final result) I have little doubt that I could get Redpath professionally built in the USA for somewhere south of $500k and the result would still be stunning. It is possible that I would participate to some extent in the construction in order to achieve that price, say to do some of the interior joinery and all the interior varnish and paint. Every item would be only what it needs to be, rather than what I might wish for in my wildest dreams. It should go without saying that there would be no fancy electronics or flat screen TV..! If I were to take the opposite tack, I have no doubt that with no holds barred if I were to build Redpath to an equal or higher degree of finish as that of the New Zealand built vessel, I could easily spend a million or more. But why...? Believe me, I am in no way disparaging the wish to have only the finest yacht available. What I wish to illustrate here is the extremely wide cost variation that is possible even with the same design.   This is precisely why the cost question cannot be answered without first obtaining or developing a set of Estimating Plans that outline the intent, scope of completion, equipment, finish, and so forth.    To find the right combination and the right venue, it is a matter of balancing the owner's budget vs. the approach taken, the equipment spec'd, the venue selected, and the level of high finish required, and the consequent amount of labor required to achieve the intended result. If we first develop a detailed set of Estimating Plans and submit them to a hand-picked selection of builders, we can then obtain their firm quotations for construction.  Along with the Layout and Structure Drawings, the Estimating Plans include a complete Vessel Specification and detailed Equipment List in order to outline the owner's unique requirements. The intent of the various documents, drawings and cover letters is to clearly outline the owner's intent so that the builder can land reasonably close to the mark.  Only then will we have even the faintest clue with regard to vessel costs.  Without the Estimating Plans package, a builder can only provide his best guess, which is likely to be to be extremely misleading, if not entirely wrong.   BUILD VENUE Despite the ever declining value of the US dollar versus the materials and equipment required, we have found several offshore venues to still be quite a good value in terms of labor.  Presently, Turkey tops the list due to its proximity to the EU and having a legal framework that has moved closer to the EU standards. Thailand is also at the top of the list, as are the Philippines, Taiwan, and other parts of SE Asia.  For example, Myanmar has recently opened its doors for business...! Good!    It is possible that China will become important as well, however as of 2016 access to Chinese yards is still somewhat awkward for the small one-off player, and of course China has very weak legal protections of the sort we are accustomed to in the West.  Naturally that picture is changing, and I am certain that China will become less 'inscrutable' in the years to come. In the not so distant future, China may well be knocking on the door of other countries to outsource the cost of their labor...!  It would not surprise me if one of those countries were the USA. Today, if I were to build a boat for myself and I were willing to venture into a foreign venue, If the vessel were a metal boat, CNC cutting would definitely be employed to pre-cut all of the structure. With that done, I'd first get a good idea of the cost of a "power-away" fully weather tight package from the Netherlands. I would then compare that to the same level of completion in Turkey, Thailand, and the Philippines.  My rationale is that even though I know for certain that the Asian venues can offer a better value due to having much more favorable labor rates, I also know that Dutch builders are extremely skilled with metal boat building, and therefore offer very high efficiency even though labor costs are much higher. Prior to making a final decision, I would then check out the cost to build in the US, especially in the South. These days, I would not be at all surprised to find the US to actually be competitive. It is worth noting that if a vessel is built inside the EU but is not for ownership within the EU, then the added costs for obtaining a CE Mark (possibly 15%) and for VAT (around 25%) do not apply.  And if the vessel is owned and used outside the EU for five years, it is my understanding that neither will apply on being imported to the EU.  Of course if only the best will do, and if it will be a metal boat, then I would consider the Netherlands first. Nowhere else in the world will you find such a concentration of highly skilled metal boat builders with a well developed network of suppliers and sub-contractors to support them. In fact, boatbuilding is very nearly a national passion in the Netherlands.   REGISTRY For a vessel built for ownership or use within the US, I would seriously consider flagging the vessel in the Marshall Islands. Another favorable venue is Palau. In both cases there are no taxes, no annual reports, excellent privacy of ownership, a body of corporate law inherited directly from the State of Delaware, and a 'Most Favored Nation' relationship with the US. This latter status means not having to formally enter and depart from each US port when cruising, plus having extended stay privileges in the US without being hassled. More importantly, your vessel will carry the Marshall Islands or Palau flag, and will therefore be less of a 'mark' when traveling elsewhere worldwide as compared to a vessel carrying the US flag. For a vessel built for ownership and use within the EU, the boat will usually carry the flag of the country where the vessel is kept. That said, there are other flags of convenience which may provide an advantage regarding fees and taxes. Examples are Gibraltar, Malta, the Cook Islands, the Cayman Islands, the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands, among others. Unless there is an extreme tax benefit though, I regard most of these as being flags of "inconvenience" due to the restrictions on movement. For example, not being able to stay within the EU for more than six months without incurring the full cost of VAT (value added tax) plus other registration and regulatory requirements. All of these wild games, despite their intrigue, may in the end cost as much or more than simply playing by the rules..!   FINDING A BUILDER While we will always help with builder recommendations, we do not provide builder lists or any builder contact information until an Estimating Plans set has been developed, or in the case of a stock design, purchased. Why. . . ? There are quite a few reasons: Builders will unable to provide a firm quote until they are presented with Estimating Plans , including Layout and Structure Drawings plus a complete Vessel Specification and Equipment List. If a builder is not presented with a completed concept, they might offer an alternative design or a boat they have in production, which may be quite different from the design the owner had envisioned, and may ultimately prove to be unsatisfactory. Without complete plans and documents a builder's only other option is to provide an incomplete estimate or a wild guess - with eventual build costs likely to end up substantially different. The builder recommendations we offer are based on a number of considerations: The prospective boat owner and their budget The type of vessel being considered The anticipated scope of completion The level of finish that is expected; etc. Without a good set of Estimating Plans , a builder will be in the unfortunate position of "attempting to apply a fudge factor to a variable based on an assumption about an unknown." In absolute terms they can only end up with. . . an unknown! Further, our builder recommendations will be made on the basis of the builder's suitability to the project being considered. Why is this 'suitability' consideration important. . . ? Some builders prefer to only build the metal hull / deck / cabin structures, while others prefer to build the whole boat. Some can build only up to a certain size of boat. Some do not want to fool with power boats, nor others with sail boats, some have a specific suitability to being able to provide the owner's expected level of finish, and so forth. Essentially, for each design and each owner there will be several qualified builders, and there will be others that are neither suited to the project nor possibly even interested.  So, while we most definitely do make builder recommendations, we will only do so when we have also supplied the prospective boat owner with sufficient information in the form of actual Estimating Plans so that those builders can accurately determine construction costs . In this way an owner will not be wasting their own time. Just as importantly, an owner will not be wasting the builders time, nor ours ...!   WHAT ARE ESTIMATING PLANS...? In order to be able to determine a 'completed vessel' cost or even a 'power-away' cost, there must necessarily be a well defined plan. In other words, the owner must present sufficient information to the builder so that the builder can actually sharpen their pencil and provide a firm quote for construction. At the very least the builder must be provided with what we call an ' Estimating Plans ' package. This consists of the first few drawings of the actual "Building Plans" plus a few preliminary design documents, as follows: Drawings Exterior Profile Deck Plan Interior Profile and Arrangement Structural Profile and Arrangement Documents Vessel Specification Equipment List Scantlings List Bolting Schedule for Wooden Vessels Structural Weights & Materials Order Weight Paint & Insulation Surface Areas Designer Cover Letter to Owner Designer Cover Letter to Builder Owner Cover Letter to Builder (Template) The Equipment List includes all the various mechanical and electrical equipment items. The Vessel Specification outlines the intent of the design, gives the vessel's proposed scantlings, construction materials for the hull and the interior joinery, the proposed paint schedule, and a preliminary indication of power, range, tankage, performance and stability. With the Estimating Plans, Vessel Specification and Equipment List in hand, one can then approach builders to inquire about actual construction costs. A complete list of our available Estimating Plans and Building Plans will be found on our Plans List page.   WHY BUILD. . . . ? Although I don't keep track of what new or used production boats are selling for, I do know that a yacht broker's commission is ordinarily 10% of the entire cost of the yacht. This seems a heavy price to pay simply as a finder's fee. Even when an entirely new Custom Design is created, the cost of the design work will usually be less than a yacht broker's commission - often much less - and no small amount of actual work will have gone into the process...! We are not in any exclusive arrangements with builders, and we do not solicit any finder's fees from them.  Our aim is simply to connect a boat project with the right builder. Of course if a Stock Design has been used, the cost of entry is considerably less.  For more information on this subject, please see our web article on Yacht Design Costs . Why build. . . ? Why not. . . ! More Articles on Cost: Nomadic Watercraft | Estimating Boat Building Costs | Affordable Boatbuilding | What Will The Boat Cost..? | What Will the Design Cost..?  

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Liveaboard Sailboat Budget: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Living aboard a sailboat can be a cost-effective lifestyle, but only if you budget smart, predict expenses, and plan ahead.

In this article, we'll go over the basics of budgeting and what to consider when planning your finances as a liveaboard. We'll also cover the most common expenses that are unique to sailboats, along with how to save money and budget accordingly.

As a liveaboard, you'll need to budget for slip fees, fuel, maintenance, utilities, repairs, and supplies. You'll also need to factor in registration fees and mandatory safety equipment that has a limited service life.

We sourced the information for this article from marinas, maintenance records, and from our experience with sailors who live aboard their boats. Other information was sourced from financial experts experienced in budgeting.

Table of contents

Budgeting Basics

Budgeting is one of the simplest and most important aspects of money management. They don't teach it in schools, but it can be the difference between living well and falling behind. This is especially true on a sailboat because a well-budgeted liveaboard can enjoy a level of financial independence unrivaled by traditional housing.

Before we dive into the specifics of budgeting on a sailboat, we will cover some of the basic rules of managing money. This will make it easier to manage your finances in the unique liveaboard environment.

Managing Income, Savings, and Expenses

One of the most important rules of budgeting is to be aware of what's going on in your personal finances. You need to figure out how much money you're making, how much money you have, and how much money you're spending.

One way to get a handle on your finances is to audit your bank statements. Figure out how much you're taking home, when your bills are due, how much they cost, and what you have leftover. This includes things such as credit card bills, loan payments, utility expenses, rent, and other recurring expenses.

Once you have a handle on your finances, keep track of them regularly and look for ways to save. This is how you can safely determine how much you can afford to spend.

Emergency Fund

Everyone, especially liveaboards, should have an emergency fund if they can afford it. An emergency fund is a chunk of change that you don't touch unless you absolutely need to. For most people, $10,000 is the ideal emergency fund balance. It can cover everything from emergency medical bills to job loss, and it can also cover expensive sailboat repairs.

Budgeting on a Sailboat

Many people choose the liveaboard lifestyle because they believe it saves money. That's said, poor financial management can make living aboard cost more than living in an apartment or house. Proper budgeting and regular upkeep are essential to keep your liveaboard lifestyle affordable and comfortable.

Budgeting on a sailboat follows the same basic principles as any other kind of budgeting. However, the specifics are different, as a sailboat is a floating vehicle that has unique maintenance and living requirements.

Boat Payments

Many people make payments on their boats. Financing a liveaboard sailboat is common practice, and you should budget these payments the same way you'd budget a car payment or even the mortgage. Be sure to factor in boat payments when making your budget, as it should be a top priority when cash is tight.

Boat Insurance, while not mandatory in most places, can actually make your budget more secure despite the recurring expense. Sailboat insurance is generally inexpensive and rarely costs more than a few hundred dollars per year.

It provides peace of mind and protection from accidents that can easily cost thousands. Part of budgeting is preparing for unexpected costs, and boat insurance can eliminate one of the largest emergency boat expenses.

Cruising vs. Permanent Mooring

How do you plan on using your sailboat? A moored sailboat has vastly different requirements than a cruising sailboat. Cruising, whether short or far, requires several additional resources that you'll need to budget for. Remember, these requirements are in addition to regular maintenance, which will cover later in this article.

Up-to-date navigational equipment is essential if you plan to cruise on your sailboat. In the 21st century, people rely primarily on digital navigation systems when setting sail. The old tools and methods are important but less expensive to acquire, so we'll focus on Modern systems.

The most basic modern GPS chart systems cost between $250 and $1,000. These systems become obsolete somewhat quickly, so you should plan to update them once every five or ten years. More advanced navigation instruments, such as radar, last longer but cost significantly more. If you intend to use radar, plan to spend between $1,500 and $3,000 for the system and occasional maintenance.

Another consideration for cruising sailboats is rigging. In this case, we'll also include items such as sails, furling systems, winches, and other working hardware that's necessary for sailing.

Plan for regular maintenance and occasional replacement, as the consequences of rigging failure can be catastrophic. Be sure to budget for replacement canvas, tools, stays, lines, and other items that need attention before (or after) getting underway.

Dockside Liveaboard Budgeting

If you plan on spending most of your time at the dock, you don't have to worry as much about rigging and operational expenses. Instead, your expenses will likely resemble those of living in an apartment or a house.

Docking Fees

Docking fees, or slip fees, are the expenses paid to dock your boat at a marina or yacht club. Docking fees vary widely between states, cities, and establishments. Usually, docking and slip fees are calculated by an overall boat length. Additional expenses may apply to unusually wide boats, such as catamarans and trimarans.

You should budget slip fees the same way you budget a rent payment or a mortgage. Similarly, if you fail to pay your dock or slip fees, your vessel could be evicted from its mooring. Slip fees should be a top priority on your liveaboard sailboat budget.

Utilities include everything from electricity to freshwater. These connections are available only on the dock, though sailboats can generate their own electricity using their engine, solar panels, wind turbines, and other sources. Liveaboards typically connect to shore power, water, and sewage, as it requires virtually no initial expense.

Budgeting for utilities is typically fairly easy for liveaboards. This is because shore connections are often included in the price of mooring. If they're not included, you can talk to the marina and get an idea of how much you'll spend.

Fuel expenses are also a factor for liveaboards, even if they rarely move the boat. This is because fuel includes both gasoline or diesel for the engine (which should always be operational) and also propane or kerosene for heating and cooking.

Some boat stoves and heaters use mineral spirits (alcohol), so that should also be considered. There are no hookups for cooking and heating fuel at marinas, so it must be hauled in manually.

If you live aboard in an area with cold weather, such as the Pacific Northwest or the Northeast, you should allocate a considerable amount of your budget to heating fuel. Additionally, consider converting your appliances to run on the same fuel. For example, if you have a kerosene stove, consider installing a kerosene heater as well. This can simplify the budgeting process as only one fuel type has to be acquired.

Maintenance

Apart from slip fees, maintenance is likely the largest expense you'll need to budget for. It is also incomparable to home maintenance, as very few of the same tasks apply. Regular maintenance is essential and will prevent costly repairs down the line.

Safety Equipment

The U.S. Coast Guard requires several pieces of safety equipment to be aboard your boat at all times, whether moored at a marina or out at sea. Many of these items have a limited service life and must be checked and replaced regularly. These items include fire extinguishers, life jackets, flares, among others.

Engines are the source of some of the highest maintenance expenses aboard a sailboat. This is especially true for inboard motors, which must be maintained in tight spaces. It's essential to keep your engine running well. Oil changes, cooling system inspections, repairs, and filter replacements must occur regularly.

The hull of a sailboat is a magnet for undesirable sea life, such as barnacles, muscles, and other growth. Though the hull itself is quite resilient, marine growth can weigh down the boat, immobilize the propeller, damage the rudder, and cause other issues, especially while underway. The hull must be scraped and painted periodically, which can be considerably expensive. This should be included in the budget once every year or two.

Additionally, oxidation occurs on fiberglass hulls which need to be addressed periodically. This process can be done about the waterline and does not always require hauling out. Refinishing kits are available, and you can do it yourself to reduce the cost.

The deck is another source of maintenance costs that are often overlooked. The cost time required to maintain your deck depends on what kind of deck you have. A teak deck, for example, can be maintained yourself, but it's more labor-intensive than a fiberglass deck. Be sure to factor in the cost of chemicals and tools when budgeting for deck maintenance.

Wiring typically doesn't require maintenance in the traditional sense, though it will need to be serviced periodically. Marine electrical systems required fuses, bulbs, and other items that deteriorate faster in a saltwater-rich environment than they do on land. Factor in a few hundred dollars per year for miscellaneous electrical parts.

Hauling Out

Hauling out is an essential part of hull maintenance that's costly enough to include as a separate category. Your vessel will need to be hauled out once every couple of years to scrape and paint the bottom, along with performing any repairs that can't be done in the water. Hauling out is an extensive process that can cost several thousand dollars, but it isn't required very often.

Chemicals are surprisingly expensive and must be budgeted accordingly. Items such as fiberglass and resin, which are essential aboard any sailboat, can cost upwards of $100 per gallon. Several gallons could be required to complete a repair job.

Other compounds, such as paint, spar varnish, and cleaning supplies, should also be factored in. In most cases, $1,000 per year or so should cover most chemical expenses. Storing chemicals properly helps preserve them and reduce costs over time.

Most liveaboards agree that you should have a few grand tucked away for repairs each year. Things break on a sailboat, and this is especially inconvenient if the vessel doubles as your home. We've already covered chemicals for fiberglass repair, so let's go over some of the other sources of surprise repair costs.

Pipes and Plumbing

Plumbing issues are common on sailboats. Leaky showerheads, clogged toilets, and tank issues happen occasionally and must be repaired. Luckily these issues are usually not particularly expensive or complex to fix.

Sailboats must furnish their own water pressure and include systems the pump out the bilge. Potable water pumps and bilge pumps are electric and have a limited service life, which means you'll need to replace them eventually.

Cabinets, doors, gimbals, and other interior furnishings break from time to time. Budget a few hundred dollars each year for wood, stain, hinges, screws, and other miscellaneous hardware to repair interior fixtures if they break.

Leaks occur on sailboats; it's just part of life. Leaks are also the most annoying problems to fix and can be very costly and urgent. It's best to factor in some of your savings to repair leaks in the hull and the deck. Don't ignore leaks around portlights and vents, as water ingress can cause mold and quietly weaken the fiberglass structure of your vessel.

Mechanical Systems

Mechanical and electromechanical systems such as the engine, blowers, and hydraulics sometimes fail and need repair. These systems are the most costly to repair on a sailboat. They can eat up a considerable amount of your maintenance budget in a short period of time. Regular inspection and maintenance are key to preventing unwelcome mechanical issues.

Experienced sailors often already have all the tools they need to maintain and repair their boat. But if you're new to the liveaboard lifestyle, you're going to need to equip yourself with all the required implements for maintaining your vessel.

Along with basic tools, such as screwdrivers, a power drill, and wrenches, you'll also need tools to work with fiberglass, wiring, and plumbing. Most of these tools are available for discounted prices at yard sales, pawnshops, and local marketplaces.

Transportation

Transportation is an important factor to consider when living aboard a sailboat. Some sailors choose to keep a car, especially if they continue to work a traditional job in a city. This poses unique challenges in that it adds car payments, insurance payments, and fuel to the equation. Additionally, some marinas don't allow parking for free.

Ride-sharing apps such as Uber and Lyft are an alternative, but this adds up quickly. Some sailors choose to take public transportation or ride a bicycle, which can reduce the long-term load on your budget.

Sample Liveaboard Budget

Now that we've covered the basic expenses to expect when living aboard, we'll put together a sample liveaboard budget. The figures are based on someone making a monthly income of $4,000 docking a 30-foot sailboat at a reasonably priced marina.

As you can see, a well-proportioned budget leaves plenty of wiggle room for personal expenses, saving, and stashing money away for larger unexpected expenses. These prices may not reflect your individual situation, but the point remains the same. A balanced budget can make living aboard a sailboat affordable and enjoyable.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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What you need to know before you buy a sailboat - five steps to prepare for the reality of boat ownership.

Are you new to sailing and already dreaming about buying your first boat? There’s something so alluring and romantic about the idea of buying a boat, cutting the dock lines, and sailing away. This powerful allure is the fuel for a sailing industry that thrives in spite of sailing being perhaps the most impractical mode of transportation that exists in modern times. The idea of sailing is so alluring, in fact, that we often hear about people buying boats and simply casting off, not letting a lack of experience stand in their way. 

On one hand, we are impressed by their chutzpah  and we root for them. On the other hand, we know that the reality of boat ownership will catch up with many of these starry-eyed newbies sooner or later, who may end up walking away (or running) and selling their boat for much less than was invested in its original purchase, repairs, maintenance, cleaning, berthing, insurance, and upgrades.

The truth is that unless you’re financially very comfortable and can afford to pay others to take care of the grittiest aspects, buying a boat can be in some ways like having a baby – it’s a huge responsibility! All those who come aboard your boat are putting their lives into your hands. Boat ownership can be messy, expensive, risky, stressful, exhausting, and will test your patience. The immaterial rewards can be immeasurable and well-worth these challenges – otherwise we wouldn’t pursue this nonsensical endeavor with such ineffable devotion! (A difference between boat ownership and parenthood is that your child won’t ever leave you in the sea to drown. Or so one would hope!)

Many of us who work for Modern Sailing are, or were at one time, boat owners ourselves, or are directly involved in the care of our fleet, so we have some perspective to offer on this subject. We are dreamers too and nothing thrills us more than aiding and witnessing others making their own sailing dreams come true. Our intention is never to scare you away from your big dream, but as a sailing school, one of our core motives is to help others prepare for the real risks and challenges that come with those cherished dreams. We hope you’ll find this article helpful as you prepare to buy a boat of your own.

1. Learn to Sail Before You Buy a Sailboat 2, Learn What Kind of Sailing You Love to Do 3. Learn About Your Preferred Boat Features and Designs 4. Learn About Sailboat Maintenance, Repair, and Troubleshooting 5. Connect to Community to Support Your Goals 6. How Long Does This Process Take? 7. Need Some Advice?

1. Learn to Sail Before You Buy a Sailboat

There’s a huge learning curve involved both with sailing and with boat ownership. Combining the two at the same time can be a recipe for overwhelm. We often hear stories about intrepid souls with little to no sailing experience who buy a sailboat, read books and watch videos to learn how to sail, and figure out how to repair and maintain the boat’s myriad systems along the way. Some have risen to this challenge, and while we are mightily impressed, we don’t recommend it for everyone! We’ve also heard many stories about some of those intrepid souls who eventually discovered that they, their significant other, or their child(ren) actually hate sailing. Or, they realized that owning a boat costs more in terms of time and money than they can afford. Or worse, their lack of experience led to disaster. The reasons sailors bail out of boat ownership are many and can often be avoided with smart planning and preparation.

We recommend to not start everything all at once. A rational, phased-in approach to your sailing dream will invite enough of the rewards to keep you emotionally invested through the challenges as they come.

Start by not only learning to sail, but by learning whether you and anyone you hope to involve actually enjoy the kind of sailing you dream of doing. Take some sailing lessons, join a sailing club, and expose yourself to as many weather conditions as you possibly can – preferably on OPBs (other people’s boats). In the process, you’ll find out how much you actually enjoy sailing and how well you can tolerate it when conditions are less than ideal.

Some might say they don’t want to waste the time and money on sailing lessons. But, considering that those who come aboard your boat are putting their lives in your hands, and anyone attempting to rescue you from a serious mistake may be putting their life on the line too, we tend to think the investment in lessons is well worth it. Also, you’ll learn the common language for boat parts, lines, and maneuvers, which will make you a better crewmate and a more effective skipper and leader for your own crew someday.

While you’re learning to sail, you’ll be very safe with a US Coast Guard licensed captain as your guide. Experienced instructors know a lot about what can go wrong on a boat, and how to prevent, troubleshoot, and manage problems as they arise. A good sailing instructor will allow you to make minor mistakes as a natural part of the learning process, but will quickly step in to prevent errors that could lead to injury or damage. There isn’t one sailor or instructor on the planet who knows everything about sailing, but the more people you sail with and the more often you sail, the more you will learn, and the better you’ll be prepared.

This level of preparation is worth every penny and every minute, and then some. You are laying a solid foundation of safety and seamanship that will serve you well and contribute to your enjoyment of sailing over the years. Eventually you can even become a valued mentor and the dollars you invested in the beginning will also contribute a legacy of sailing enjoyment for many others.

As you progress in your sailing education, if it turns out you feel less enthusiastic about the realities than you first imagined, you will only be out the cost of lessons and not the cost of an entire boat plus everything you spent on it after buying it. If you enjoy sailing but decide to downsize your goals, you can always continue sailing on OPBs as a member of a sailing club, racing team, or social group. 

2. Learn What Kind of Sailing You Love to Do

There are many types of sailboats built for different purposes and waterways, and to know which type is right for you, you’ll need to find out the answers to these questions:

• What kind of sailing do you love to do? Are you interested in performance sailing and racing, casual day sailing, extended cruising, or maybe all three?
• Will you stick to sheltered inland waters or do you want to explore the coast? Will you ever want to cross an ocean?
• What is the biggest sailing goal that you hope to achieve with your boat?

To explore these questions, join a race clinic and try out racing . Go on a few overnight and multi-day charters in the Bay. Join a Pacific Coast Expedition  or a Global Destinations Flotilla to get a feel for the ocean. Once you have your ASA 104 certification, take your closest companions on a bareboat sailing charter somewhere exotic and beautiful for a taste of the cruising lifestyle. These are the best ways to find out what kind of sailing you love to do – and therefore what type of sailboat will be best for you.

With prudent weather planning, just about any kind of sailboat is up for the job of crossing an ocean, so we won’t delve into the topic of bluewater boats versus coastal cruisers. However, know that due to weight, ballast, and hull shape, some boats' motion will be more comfortable in a seaway than others. Simply know that it takes time to learn about all the different sailboat models, configurations, and builds, and which are ideal for which purposes.

Take the time to learn what kind of sailor you are so you will know what kind of sailboat you want. There’s also nothing wrong with starting with a boat that’s not well-suited for your biggest sailing goal, as long as you understand and intend before you sign on the dotted line that that this will be your “stepping stone” boat.

3. Learn About Your Preferred Boat Features and Designs

In-mast furling mainsail or lazy jacks and stack pack? Dual helm or single? Monohull or catamaran? Pullman berth or centerline? In-line or U-shaped galley? Do all lines lead to the cockpit, or will crew need to go the mast? The possible configurations of boat features are endless. How will you know what your preferences are until you have sailed a variety of boats and experienced for yourself?

This is one of the best advantages of membership with a sailing school or club. You’ll get to try out a wide variety of boats and learn what features and layouts you like and dislike. This will greatly help inform a wise choice of boat for your purchase.

Take your time learning about different sailboat types and designs. One fun way to learn is to simply hop onto YachtWorld.com and look at boats in your price range. When you see something that catches your interest, do some Internet research on the model. Look for a model “owners’ forum” to see what kind of sailing the model’s owners do and what kinds of common complaints they may have. You’ll learn a lot about boat models on the market this way. When you’re seriously shopping for a boat, you’ll know more about what you’re looking for and what you'd prefer to avoid.

4. Learn About Sailboat Maintenance, Repair, and Troubleshooting

There are thousands of parts and pieces on a sailboat, and all of them are continually embattled by the sun, wind, and saltwater. Only your constant care will keep your boat shiny, safe, and seaworthy.

You may have heard some of these bleak euphemisms about boat ownership:

• "BOAT stands for Break Out Another Thousand."
• "A boat is a hole in the water that you pour your money into."
• "Cruising is mostly just repairing boats in exotic places."
• "The two best days in a boat owner’s life: the day you buy the boat and the day you sell it."

As you learn to sail with others, you will inherently begin to learn about some of the common (and uncommon) problems that crop up on sailboats. In the process, you will begin learning from your instructor(s) and fellow sailors about boat systems and how to keep them running. 

In addition to the mechanical skills you’ll need to develop for self-sufficiency on the water, be prepared for the costs. It’s a common belief that a boat’s annual maintenance and repairs will cost 10-20% its purchase price – every year. Sometimes it ends up being less than that, sometimes more. Our advice is to always budget for more.

For example, the standing rigging will need to be replaced every 10 to 15 years, and depending on the size of the boat, it can cost $2,000 to $20,000 or more. (Costs increase exponentially with every foot of length.) If you buy an older $20,000 boat and the engine croaks, you can wind up spending another $10-15k or more on a repower alone. An unfortunate incident like wrapping a line around a propeller or a grounding can cost thousands to repair. That’s only three small examples of the countless costly repairs that boats can need. (At Modern, we’ve seen it all!) Don’t forget about the costs of berthing and insurance too.

Don’t let all this scare you off, but give you pause to slow down. Strategize your sailing goals carefully. When you are prepared for the costs and technical challenges, it’s possible to own a boat and go cruising even on a shoestring budget.

There are also alternatives that can help minimize the costs of boat ownership. Sharing ownership (partnership) is one alternative, but ensure you have a legally enforceable agreement with someone you mutually like, respect, and trust. 

Placing your boat in a charter fleet under a Yacht Management Services agreement can help ease the burdens of ownership substantially. When you are not sailing your boat, vetted sailors can pay the charter company to sail her, and you will receive a share of the revenue to help offset the costs. The charter company will also manage the details of berthing, cleaning, maintenance, etc. A disadvantage is that it might not be easy to go sailing spontaneously. You'll have to place an advance reservation on your boat if you want to take her out. Other than that, keeping your boat in a charter fleet means that she will contribute to the learning and enjoyment of others while helping to earn her keep. 

5. Connect to Community to Support Your Goals

There’s an international maritime rule that requires all mariners to give aid to other mariners in distress, as long as doing so doesn’t jeopardize their own vessel and crew. And as diverse a community as we are, those who are drawn or addicted to sailing automatically share something compelling in common. Stemming from this rule and our shared passion is a general spirit of helpfulness and supportiveness among sailors.

If you jump right in and buy a boat, chances are you will soon connect with a neighbor or neighbors in your marina. Favorite topics of conversation among boat owners is about their biggest mistakes (and commonly other people's mistakes) and their boat’s most vexing issues, so it’s quite possible to pick up knowledge just by talking to other boat owners. Not all, but some sailors will even volunteer to come to your boat and help you troubleshoot. You’ll find this spirit of comraderie and helpfulness in marinas, yacht clubs, anchorages, and seaways worldwide.

A sailing school that is also a charter club offers more than just sailing lessons and certifications. It provides ample opportunities for sailors to practice and learn with and from each other. If you sail frequently, your skills, confidence, and community will grow quickly. Using social sailing forums and tools like the GoSailing app  and attending sailing seminars and workshops, boat shows, and other social events for sailors like Latitude 38’s Crew List Party can also help you get connected. Modern Sailing’s weekly newsletter email also helps keep you informed about opportunities in the Bay Area for sailors to connect with and learn from others. Remarkably, when you express genuine enthusiasm and passion for sailing, you will attract others who will feel inspired to help you learn and get connected to the resources you need.

While we all have a responsibility to be as self-sufficient as possible, it’s great to know you always have a community to fall back on when you need a sounding board or get into trouble. One day, you will come across a sailor in need, and remembering all those who helped you on your journey, you will be glad to take your turn as a helper or mentor in your community.

6. How Long Does This Process Take?

In our experience, we have seen sailors go from absolute beginners to boat owners in about 1.5 to 3 years. Of course, you can go faster or slower depending on your schedule, budget, and goals.

The photo featured at the top of this article is of a former student and member,  Koren Leslie Cohen , seated on the deck of her very own boat,  Sugar . Click on the names to learn about how  Koren , Warren Holybee ,  Scott Corder , and  Ken and Linda Hargreaves  went from beginners to boat owners in only three years.

7. Need Some Advice?

Are you still feeling unsure about where to begin? Give us a call at (415) 331-8250 or send us an email . Our friendly office team can help you build a sailing education plan to prepare you with the skills and confidence you'll need to get underway.

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Testimonials.

The office staff was very accommodating in meeting my availability.

Captain Jeff Cathers is really cool. I had such a great time on the Farallones Day Trip . It was actually my very best day of 2020. Thank you so much for coordinating the trip.

I started sailing at Modern at the end of 2021 and threw myself into it, spending as much time out on the water as I could. I came to Modern with some flat water dinghy sailing experience and it was quite a transition learning to sail bigger boats in much tougher conditions. There was a lot to learn, but the Modern instructors, Club Skippers and fellow Modern sailors made learning fun and rewarding. My Modern instructors were clearly very experienced sailors and sailing with them was inspiring! I want to thank the maintenance crew and office staff for their dedication and hard work - you are the folks who make things work! There is a lot more to learn and I look forward to sailing with Modern for years to come.

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Modern Sailing School & Club

Sausalito Location 2310 Marinship Way, Sausalito, CA 94965 (415) 331-8250 (800) 995-1668

Berkeley Location 1 Spinnaker Way, Berkeley, CA 94710 (415) 331-8250 (800) 995-1668

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