sailboat shore power inverter

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Sailboat Electrical System Upgrades

• By Ed Sherman
• Updated: April 7, 2021

If you’ve been attending boat shows for the past 10 or 20 years like I have, you have surely noticed significant design evolutions from the major sailboat builders. Wide beam carried all the way aft to a plumb transom—which often articulates into a sweet boarding deck, sometimes even opening up a garage for a tender and motor—are becoming the norm. Dual helms and twin rudders are commonplace, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a boat without installed air conditioning and sophisticated refrigeration systems. Boats 30 feet and longer often have a bow thruster as an option, and shore power is standard equipment.

Recently I had the opportunity to turn on the not-so-way-back machine and take a trip to the 1980s to remind me what life on board back then was about. Let me share with you some of my observations and what I would consider changing if I were to buy such a boat.

The sample boat here is a Germán Frers-designed 1983 Beneteau First 42, offered for sale by Dave McKenny at Brewer Yacht Sales in Rhode Island. It is a one-owner boat that was repowered about 10 years ago, and its hull and deck have been repainted. The interior woodwork is the classic dark bright finish of the era and is in excellent condition. More common to that time, the boat has two proper sea berths port and starboard, amidships above and behind the standard saloon settees. And the upholstery has been updated.

The onboard electrical and electronic systems, however, are mostly original, with the exception of a fairly recent autopilot, a 1,000-watt DC-to-AC electrical inverter and an Isotherm seawater-cooled DC refrigeration/freezer upgrade for the original icebox in the galley. The boat has no shore-power system installed, which amazingly was not that uncommon back then. There is no bow thruster or electric windlass; winches are all sized properly but fully manual. So the question is, what would I do to bring this boat’s almost-40-year-old electrical/electronic systems into the new century?

Step one would be to analyze the existing source of electrical power. Currently the boat is equipped with a pair of Group 31 flooded-cell lead-acid batteries. They get recharged by a stock 65-amp alternator controlled by an ancient Balmar voltage regulator. This battery bank has an amp-hour capacity of about 200 amps, but unfortunately flooded lead-acid batteries like these suffer from cycle-life reduction if they get continually discharged below about 50 percent of their capacity. In effect, this boat currently has about 100 amp-hours of power available for running accessories.

In my dream redo, this would not be adequate, and I consider it marginal even as the boat is equipped now without a bit of engine run time to keep those batteries charged.

For me, one of the first upgrades would be to replace these batteries with a pair of group 31 absorbed glass-mat batteries. AGMs have considerably higher recharge-acceptance rates compared with flooded-cell batteries, and can be discharged up to 80 percent of capacity, meaning that engine run times will be at a more acceptable level when away from the dock, at least in terms of electrical-power generation. Upgrading the alternator and voltage regulator to a 100-amp Balmar set would also be on my list for this boat to minimize engine run time.

My intention is to add quite a bit more electrical equipment to this boat, and I prefer not to run things such as alternators near their maximum capacity for extended periods of time. Limiting the amount of full output extends their potential service life considerably.

Plug and Play

AC power on board today is almost a must for boats that are going to be berthed at a dock. Yes, global warming is real, and sleeping on board without air conditioning at this point in my life just isn’t happening.

I’ve lost my enthusiasm for cold showers as well. In the old days, we used sun showers hanging from the boom in the cockpit and got by just fine, but that was then and this is now. The luxury of hot water on demand is not too much to ask in this day and age. So besides adding air conditioning to this boat, we are going to need to add a water heater and appropriate plumbing to deliver hot water to the galley and two heads.

The current refrigeration system, an Isotherm ASU unit, is only a 12-volt, and I would think about swapping that out for a 12-volt DC/120-volt AC unit. Or, as a money saving measure, I might just leave the 12-volt unit in place because I’m going to be installing a proper battery charger to keep my new AGM batteries charged up anyhow. We’ll let the charger replenish the power used by the Isotherm unit.

The bottom line here is that the boat is going to get shore power installed for the first time. The question becomes whether a 30-amp system or a 50-amp system will be needed. Determining that requires performing a load analysis. Here’s how I would go about doing it.

First we have to determine how many Btu we’re going to need to cool the boat. A visit to marinaire.com will connect you with a calculator that will provide the Btu per hour needed to air-condition the boat in either moderate or tropical environments. I chose moderate for this boat because based on MarineAire’s world map, only South Florida is in its tropical zone, and the plan for this boat is to stay in the mid-Atlantic to Northern states the majority of the time.

Based on the calculator results, I still came out needing one of the company’s largest units, which can produce 16,000 Btu of AC and 17,000 Btu of heat when needed. This unit draws just under 11 amps of AC power at 110 volts.

My new water heater will draw 13 amps, and I’ll need another 8 amps for my P-12 Blue Sea 40-amp battery charger.

With an air conditioner, water heater and battery charger plugged in and running, we’re looking at just over 30 amps of AC power needed. That figure does not include any provision for a microwave oven, coffee maker, hair dryer or any other small AC appliance while at the dock.

Knowing this opens up two options for shore power: either a 50-amp service or possibly two 30-amp setups. The potential problem here is the marina itself; many don’t offer a 50-amp option at the dockside pedestal. There are myriad adapters available that would allow you to tap into multiple outlets to get to 50 amps, but remember: You don’t want to pull more than 30 amps from a 30-amp service.

One additional shore-power consideration on this boat is the 1,000-watt DC-to-AC inverter that has been installed. This was possibly done to facilitate running a laptop at some point, or maybe an electric shaver or small hair dryer. It is located in the aft head compartment, so I’m going with the shaver idea.

My inclination would be to relocate the inverter behind a panel in the navigation-station area, probably under the settee at the nav station, and resize it to a 2,000-watt unit. I would add a dedicated battery to supply DC power to the inverter and make sure the battery is connected to my Blue Sea charger. Since I am going to be running only intermittent loads from the inverter, a group 27 AGM will get the job done.

Note that I am not considering a generator for this major upgrade. Space is tight, and I don’t want to carry the extra weight. This is a performance cruiser, and I want it to stay that way. Besides, my plan is to stay mostly in slips when traveling, and so I’ll have access to shore power when I need it.

A Wednesday-night race series is in the plan as well, so I won’t be adding a bow thruster, anchor windlass or electric winches. For the occasional overnight away from the dock, I will still have the power I need to microwave some popcorn and run a laptop to check a weather forecast or watch a downloaded Netflix movie.

Side note: I have no plans to add solar panels or a wind generator either. I love the lines of this boat just the way Frers designed it.

Based on the proposed changes to the electrical system, a new AC/DC combined panel is in order. The boat is currently equipped with 12 DC circuits and no AC circuits. We will also need to modify the battery-switching system, so that will allow the three new batteries, combined, to be separated.

For the panels, Blue Sea, Paneltronics and Bass Products are all possibilities. I just need to take some measurements to see what will fit where the existing panel is mounted. The design will also depend on whether I decide to go with a single 50-amp shore-power service or two 30-amp services.

In either case, rather than having two cigar-lighter-style outlets, we’ll swap those out for a pair of Blue Sea USB plug adapters, which are more relevant in today’s world.

Instruments and Toys

With the exception of the autopilot, the original onboard electronics need to be replaced. A pair of multifunction displays are in order here, with one mounted at the traditional nav station down below and another in a pod at the helm. An updated VHF with digital selective calling and possibly integrated AIS will also be needed. And since trips north to Maine from Annapolis will be part of the plan, we’ll add radar. Air, wind and speed instruments will also be integrated via NMEA 2000. Since coastal cruising is going to be the primary use for this boat, satellite communications will not be part of the permanent upgrades.

I’m not a television person, so a boat with a flat-screen TV that rises up from behind a settee and interfaces with the chart plotter means nothing more to me than just one more thing that can break and need repair. I do have an iPad loaded with my favorite tunes though, so some speakers and a small AM/FM stereo set that connects to my iPhone or iPad via Bluetooth will augment the good company I plan to have on board for entertainment.

Dollars and Sense

The used-boat market has a huge inventory these days, and there a lot of really great boats available for any price range—and at considerable savings compared with the cost of a new boat.

This Beneteau First 42 that I have my eye on has an asking price of $59,900. Although there is no direct comparison for the 2020 model year from Beneteau, a similar boat in this size range would cost over $200,000. That’s at least a $140,000 differential.

That can buy a lot of upgrades!

The proposals I suggest here will not be inexpensive, but when compared with the cost of a new boat with similar equipment (much of it optional), you can come out tens of thousands of dollars ahead with careful selection of the right used boat. I think the biggest part of any decision here is to be totally honest with yourself about your genuine needs versus your dreams and desires.

Ed Sherman writes frequently on a range of technical topics for CW. He is a longtime Boat of the Year judge, and recently retired as vice president of the American Boat & Yacht Council.

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Which is the Best Marine Inverter-charger for Your Boat?

Review weighs the pros and cons of different dc inverters in the 2,000-watt range..

Modern boats are becoming increasingly complex electrically and electronically. Customer expectations call for all manner of home-like creature comforts on board. Things like flat-screen TVs, sophisticated audio systems, onboard computers, air-conditioning, and light-dimmers are the new-boat norm, increasing the demand for AC-power systems that can deliver clean, undistorted power with a minimum amount of electronic or magnetic interference.

Photos by Ed Sherman

That’s where inverter-chargers come in. In the April 2005 issue, Practical Sailor compared six 2,000-watt DC-power marine inverter-chargers. Nothing has changed since then in regard to how they work. What has changed is that today, there are more players offering this equipment, and the level of sophistication in the devices’ monitoring and calibration systems has been ramped up. In light of this,  Practical Sailor editors decided a fresh look at the product group was in order.

Because inverter-chargers are essentially two devices in one, we’ve opted to present our recent tests in two parts. In this issue, we take a look at the devices’ inverters and in an upcoming issue, we’ll report on the battery chargers.

How We Tested

For our tests, the inverters were powered by a West Marine flooded-cell, deep-cycle battery with a 90-amp-hour rating. For loads, we used a series of 200-watt lights that could be separately switched, a Lutron AC light dimmer control, and a Vizio HD flat-screen television to test for interference and functionality of the modified-sine wave units.

Inherent in a modern boat’s complex power system is the problem of radiated interference. Electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI) have become installer nightmares as we try to jam all this equipment into small spaces.

To that end, we tested each product for both EMI and RFI outputs and established a “safe zone of separation,” a minimum safe distance for mounting the inverter-chargers away from other equipment that may be either magnetically or noise sensitive.

It’s important to note here that some vendors will tout their product’s compliance with FCC Class A standards relative to radio frequency interference. This is rubbish, in our view. FCC Class A basically addresses RFI in residential installations, i.e. houses. The typical home offers much greater latitude in terms of equipment location to minimize the effects of RFI than a 35- or 45-foot boat.

To test for electromagnetic emissions, we scanned each unit under load with an A.W. Sperry EMF-200A Electromagnetic Field Radiation Tester. For our radiated noise tests, we used a Grundig G2000A AM / FM shortwave radio (frequency spectrums from 540-1700 kHz, 88-108 MHz and 2.3-26.1 MHz) and a Standard Horizon handheld VHF radio (160 MHz).

We looked at the waveform delivered from each unit and calculated the harmonic distortion on the true-sine wave units, comparing them with normally accepted tolerances. To make our distortion and waveform evaluations, we used a Fluke 867B connected to a laptop computer running Flukeview software.

For cruisers, conserving energy is important, so we also compared DC current draws to AC current draws to calculate the basic efficiency of the units. Efficiency figures will vary based on demand load and battery voltage; most inverters’ efficiency will improve with higher loads. All test products were rated for efficiency using the same loads and voltage. We also measured each product’s DC current draw with the units in “standby” mode—connected to the DC source, ready to supply AC power, but at idle.

We also compared continuous and peak outputs. This specification is quite important if you are going to be operating equipment that has a motor in use for part or all of its function. Motors draw considerably more current on startup than in normal operation, so you must have a capable power source to handle the load. Amperage readings were measured using a Blue Sea Systems 8110 True RMS meter and an Extech 380942 True RMS clamp for comparison.

We considered each product’s ability to combine multiple inverters in a parallel configuration to provide more power if needed. The ease of a DIY installation and manufacturer-supplied instructions also were evaluated. Finally, we looked at price and warranty to determine the best value.

What We Tested

Marine DC inverters, which change low-voltage DC energy (usually from a battery bank) into AC line voltage, are basically divided into two classes: True Sine Wave (TSW) and quasi or Modified Sine Wave (MSW). Each uses a different method to produce AC voltage. (For more on this, see “Inverters 101,” above.) At the time of our 2005 test, there was a considerable price difference between TSW and MSW inverters—that’s not so today.

For this report, testers evaluated modified, or “quasi,” sine wave units from Charles Industries, Magnum Energy, ProMariner, and Tripp Lite, and true-sine wave units from Magnum, Mastervolt, ProMariner, and Xantrex. All test units were in the 2,000- to 3,000-watt output range.

Newmar and Xantrex recently released new units that were not yet available when this test began; we plan to test these in a follow-up report.

Charles IQ-2600

Charles Industries’ IQ-2600 was by far the heaviest and largest inverter-charger in our test group; however, it also has the highest output. Built in the U.S. by Vanner Industries, the IQ-2600 is UL (Underwriters Laboratories) Listed and Approved. (See “Industry Standards,” above, for more on UL certification.)

The IQ-2600 performed well in all of our output testing and met its specifications with no problems. As in our 2005 tests, it was the most efficient of all the units we compared (93 percent), and it had the highest output ratings among the products in this round of testing.

The IQ-2600 uses a traditional, low-frequency transformer, which accounts for most of its heft. It does emit some pretty powerful EMI and RFI, particularly RFI at AM radio frequencies. A 36-inch separation brought the noise and magnetic emissions down to nothing, so separation from magnetically or

radio-frequency sensitive equipment is a must. Its standby current draw on the batteries was middle of the road at 1.2 amps.

The IQ-2600 is available with an optional remote monitor and control panel and has some sophisticated control functionality like automatic power transfer switching and auto power management, both useful features discussed in our April 2005 issue.

The Charles quasi-sine wave inverter’s waveform struggled in our light dimmer test. The dimmer simply would not function, so if your boat has light dimmers, this unit won’t work on those circuits. The waveform saw no effect during our flat-panel TV testing, however.

With a price of $3,500, the IQ-2600 was the most expensive in our test.

Bottom line: This is a ruggedly built, solid performer that has a solid track record. If weight and space aren’t issues on your boat, and higher output and reliability with a good history are of primary concern, the IQ-2600 may be a good choice.

Magnum MS2000

Fairly new to the marine market, the Magnum MS2000 inverter is ETL Listed. (See “Industry Standards,” above.)

The TSW Magnum uses conventionally wound transformers in the MS2000, but it weighed nearly half of the Charles IQ-2600. Of course, the MS2000 had considerably less output than the IQ-2600 with continuous ratings of 2,000 watts and a surge rating of 2,800, compared to the IQ-2600’s 2,600 and 7,800 watts, respectively. The Magnum’s lower output correlates to the lighter weight.

The MS2000 delivered an impressive standby current draw of only 0.6 amps. As with the Charles unit, our tests showed fairly high EMI and RFI emissions that required a 36-inch separation from other equipment, and low harmonic distortion was calculated at 3 percent.

Testers really liked the MS2000’s optional remote monitoring panel ($230), which both testers and the manufacturer highly recommend using. Testers also noted that the device was easy to set up and easy to use with user-friendly software and simple initial calibrations.

The MS2000 comes with a three-year warranty, the best in this test group.

Bottom line: This unit will effectively run any AC equipment connected to it. At $1,750 (with the optional remote panel), the MS2000 is a  Practical Sailor Recommended product among TSW inverters.

Magnum ME2012

Magnum’s ME2012 is an MSW inverter, so it may not effectively power some distortion-sensitive equipment. As with the Charles IQ-2600, the dimmer control would not function during testing, but the Vizio TV performed just fine.

The ME2012 is ETL Listed for compliance with all of the relevant standards. (See “Industry Standards,” page 18.) As with the MS2000, testers recommend using it with the optional, easy-to-use remote monitor/calibration panel.

This unit measured the lowest standby current draw in the test—0.45 amps DC—a valuable trait for cruising sailors who want ready-to-go AC power with a minimum of battery charge depletion. Its calculated efficiency during tests was 91 percent, also a desirable feature for those trying to maximize battery state.

Measured EMI and RFI were moderate, requiring 36 inches of equipment separation to negate the emissions.

The ME2012 retails for $1,650, with the optional panel and a three-year warranty. With there being only a $100 difference between the ME2012 and the TSW Magnum, we’d opt for the MS2000, unless motor circuits are in the plans. The peak current for the ME2012 is 3,700 watts compared to the MS2000’s 2,800 watts.

Bottom line: A solid competitor in the MSW field, the ME2012 would be easy for a DIY installer to conquer.

Mastervolt Combi 12/2000-100

The Mastervolt Combi 12/2000-100 was the only test product made in Europe for the U.S. market. Long known for its innovative solutions, Mastervolt’s Combi clearly demonstrated some of the real advantages to the company’s approach to inverter and charger products in recent years.

This unit, unlike most of the others in our group, uses a high-frequency switch-mode technology as a basis for its voltage conversions. The result is a unit that is not dimensionally small in its form factor, but at 24 pounds, it was one of the lightest units in the test group.

Because it is made in Europe, the Mastervolt is certified by the manufacturer to be compliant with some really tough International Standards Organization (ISO) standards. Standards in Europe for such things as EMI and RFI are much stricter than they are in North America, and our measurements on the Combi bore this out. According to its maker, it’s also third-party tested to ABYC and UL standards.

Magnetically, we measured a peak of only 54 milligauss of emission compared to off-scale readings of more than 200 milligauss, dramatically lower. As for RFI emissions, our tests showed very low noise at all frequencies. Only 18 inches of separation completely nulled noise and magnetic emission readings, making this a good choice for installations near sensitive equipment.

Mastervolt boasts a peak wattage rating of 4,000 watts, one of the highest among 2,000-watt continuous inverters. Our tests confirmed this capability.

Calculated harmonic distortion of the Mastervolt Combi’s sine-wave output came in at a mere 1.5 percent, an excellent reading by any account, which ensures that this unit can power even the most sensitive AC appliances. The unit tested at 88 percent efficiency, a very good showing, especially for a TSW device.

One important installation factor for any European inverter is the set-up for North American power that requires an AC neutral-to-ground link at a source of AC power. The default setting for the Mastervolt is to not have this link made internal to the unit. It is programmable by carefully adjusting dip-switch settings in the device, as are other important functions for output calibration and such.

The Combi is engineered to be “stackable,” or paralleled with a similar inverter to double the effective output. Also, the Combi is completely network capable, which may be significant for the more sophisticated boats using NMEA 2000 integrated systems. Another unique feature of the Mastervolt is its free software program, “MasterAdjust” (downloadable at www.mastervolt.com ), which allows the user to check the status of the battery charger function and the inverter and power transfer functions, and to set switching parameters to meet system specific needs, via a laptop computer.

The most sophisticated device in test group, with power sharing and power boosting, the Mastervolt Combi 12/2000 has a list price of $2,599.

Bottom line: A high-quality product with a host of unique features, the Mastervolt Combi is recommended, particularly for use with highly sensitive electronics.

ProMariner Combi 2500 QS

We had high hopes for the two Combi units we tested from New Hampshire-based ProMariner. Their form factor renders them convenient for either flat or bulkhead mounting, and their 43-pound weight was in the middle of the test pack. Also, they

were the only units in our test group that truly met the spirit of the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) grounding recommendation. (See “Staying Grounded,” above.)

The ProMariner Combi 2500QS had an efficiency value of 89 percent, on par with others in the test group. Its standby current-draw was also in the same range as others at 0.55 amps.

The 2500QS had extremely noisy emissions both magnetically and in audible radio frequencies. Testers were able to clear the magnetic interference with a 36-inch separation, but it took nearly 6 feet of separation to get the noise to stop on the RFI side of things. The noise was evident throughout our entire test frequency spectrum. The 2500QS should not be mounted anywhere near an onboard radio antenna.

The owner’s manual discusses the unit’s compliance with FCC Class A requirements. As explained earlier, FCC Class A is not particularly relevant to marine installations, and the unit we tested was quite noisy. The manual went on to explain that the unit was designed to comply with ABYC standards and applicable UL standards, but there is no mention of any certification associated with this design concept.

The unit is CE marked, but our test results left testers skeptical that the unit we tested actually complies with the European Union’s strict magnetic and radio frequency emission standards.

During testing, the unit did seem to keep up with our stepped wattage and peak wattage tests, so there doesn’t seem to be any disparity there.

The Combi 2500QS has a list price of $1,300 and a two-year warranty.

Bottom line: We commend ProMariner for being the first to comply fully with the ABYC grounding recommendation. However, its average test performance, coupled with its high RFI, held it back.

ProMariner Combi 2000PS

Again, we had high hopes for the TSW ProMariner Combi 2000PS (pure sine). But, our testing showed some flaws in the unit we tested.

Emissions were nearly identical to the 2500QS unit, and the efficiency levels were 73 percent, the lowest of all the units tested. The standby current draw was an acceptable 0.75 amps.

On the plus side, the waveform demonstrated a remarkably low 1-percent harmonic distortion, so it passed all of our equipment tests with flying colors. With that level of distortion, the 2000PS could run even the most sensitive gear. The case and grounding system stud are identical to the 2500QS. The output, both continuous and peak, were within tolerance.

Priced at $1,400, the 2000PS has a built-in monitor panel that can be removed and mounted remotely, making this unit the least expensive of the TSW units we tested.

Bottom line: Because of its extreme emissions and low efficiency, the 2000PS would not be our first choice.

Xantrex Prosine 2.0

The Prosine 2.0 has been around for a few years, and both it and its maker, Xantrex Technology, have proven track records. Because Xantrex is a Canadian company, the unit is certified by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) to comply with UL standards.

Like the Mastervolt Combi, this TSW inverter packs a high-frequency transformer in a lightweight unit. It has an excellent form factor for easy location on a horizontal or a vertical plane, and its light weight will minimize strain on boat structure.

The Prosine demonstrated the lowest magnetic and RFI emissions of all of the units tested. A mere 12 inches of separation negated all interference.

Our calculated efficiency for the Prosine 2.0 was right on target at 89 percent, and the standby current draw was a mere 0.6 amps. Harmonic distortion also put this inverter at the top of its game with only 1 percent.

Our continuous and intermittent wattage testing of this unit verified its specified 2,000 watts continuous and 4,500-watt surge ratings. The documentation that comes with the unit is good, and DIY installation is realistic, in our opinion. Testers did find the calibration instructions a bit convoluted.

Like the Mastervolt Combi, the Prosine is stackable, but in a series configuration. This enables a user to create a 120-/240-volt capable system, which could be useful for running a clothes dryer, for example.

Bottom line: Priced at $1,900, the Prosine 2.0 is an impressive unit, and we highly recommend its inverter.

Tripp Lite MRV2012

Tripp Lite, a Chicago-based maker of power protection devices, manufactures several inverter-charger units, including the MRV2012-UL we tested. There is really nothing too sophisticated about the MRV2012 when compared to some of the other products in our test group.

Performance issues were similar to other MSW inverters we tested. We achieved a calculated efficiency of only 77 percent and found a 2.25-amp current draw in standby mode. Emissions were moderate, similar to most of the other units we tested. Testers found that 36 inches of separation made the noise and magnetic field go away.

The MRV2012 has an optional remote monitor panel, which was not included with the unit we tested. We recommend spending the extra $149 for the remote panel as the LED array built in to the case is a bit difficult to read and is somewhat obscured by the case itself.

At 43 pounds, the MRV2012 falls in the middle of the pack weight-wise. Its continuous and peak wattage ratings tested out OK.

With the optional monitoring panel, the MRV 2012-UL sells for $1,144 and it comes with a 2½-year warranty.

Bottom line: As an inverter, it falls in a “middle of the road” category, but its simplicity and price earn it the PS Budget Buy pick. We’ll see how it performs as a battery charger in our next issue.

To decide which marine inverter-charger best meets your onboard power demands, first consider how it will be used, how and where it will be mounted, and what is required to fit with your electrical system. Not all inverter-chargers are created equal, so weighing the pros and cons of the different types will give you a clearer picture of what you need.

For this look at the inverter function of our marine inverter-charger test group, we recommend the Magnum MS2000 true-sine wave inverter. It is a lightweight, above-average performer, and has a high efficiency rating and an excellent warranty. We prefer lower magnetic and RFI emissions, but for the price and ease of use, we’d find a suitable mounting location.

Testers also liked the impressive Xantrex Prosine 2.0 and Mastervolt Combi.

If you want simple, low-cost raw power, and the assurance of a UL-Listed product, the Tripp Lite MRV2012 may be worth considering. It’s the Practical Sailor Budget Buy for this group of inverters.

The ProMariner devices, the 2500QS and 2000PS, proved average performers, but their high RFI and the 2000PS’s low efficiency kept them from making our top picks list.

Those boat owners for whom space, weight, and budget are of no concern may do well to take look at the Charles IQ-2600, if a modified-sine wave inverter fits the bill.

Bear in mind that this is only half of the picture. Stay tuned for the second part of this test, when we evaluate the charger function of these inverter-chargers.

• Inverters 101
• Industry Standards
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Marine Inverter-Chargers
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Field test: PV Modules

A real world comparison between Mono, Poly, PERC and Dual PV Modules.

* This is a field test and the results are specific for this installation on this location please research which is the best solution for your own situation as the results can be different based on environmental influences.

Total solar yield as of 27/03/2023 when the results were reset: Mono: 9158 kWh Split-cell: 9511 kWh Poly: 9113 kWh Perc: 9471 kWh Perc-east: 1970 kWh Perc-west: 1730 kWh

Enjoy the sound of silence

Harnessing the power of the wind makes sailing an unforgettable experience. All you want to hear is the sound of the wind blowing and the waves breaking. But what is the best way to power the on-board electronics while the engine and generator are switched off? Victron combines energy storage and solar generation to provide the power you need. In absolute silence.

Whether you’re sailing away for the weekend or planning a trip around the world, big chance the very same Victron solution could support both. It’s the level of comfort that really determines your optimal solution aboard. With Victron you can power just about any plans, but as an example we illustrated ‘normal’ and ‘heavier’ power profiles in the below for the ‘average’ sailing yacht.

Consumption

• Power Profile
• Complete system

How much do you need?

A modern sailing yacht is packed with a lot of electrical equipment. Most things used to run the boat usually use DC, bigger (household) appliances need AC. When it comes to estimating power consumption, many just add up the Watts. Time is equally important. A microwave might use 1000 Watts, but only for 2 minutes. A fridge might consume as little as 50 Watts, but is turned on 24 hours a day.

For inspirational purposes we’ve outlined 2 system examples based on ‘normal’ and ‘heavier’ use.

1.2 - 2.4 kWh / day

'normal' and 'heavier' energy consumption. Read more

The microwave uses 1000W an hour but is only on for 2 minutes a day. 1000W / 60 x 2 = 0.03 kWh / 2 minutes

The fridge uses 50W an hour but is on the entire day (actually cooling ½ the day). 50W x 24hrs/2 = 0.6 kWh / day

Storage & conversion

How much energy should be stored.

Storing energy allows you to live of shorepower at sea or lets you use solar power harvested during the day over night. The inverter will convert the stored power to 230V. Sailing yachts typically experience long intervals between battery recharges, so your house battery should have a generous capacity. As a rule of thumb, we’re calculating with 48 hrs on board without shore power shore/engine/generator/solar power. Multiply the daily power consumption x days for even greater independency.

The storage capacity of a lithium battery should be two times the daily power consumption.

Due to its ±50% smaller discharge capacity, the storage capacity of a lead-acid battery should be four times the daily power consumption.

The inverter should be sized to handle the average load continuously and should match the expected peak power current, which our inverters handle very well (on average 2 x their continuous current).

Where does the power come from?

Sources of power, power profile.

Normal and heavier power profiles in kWh, based on the daily energy consumption, which should be in balance with the generation.

Storage batteries in Ah, double the capacity using lead-acid batteries.

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System diagram

For a lithium and lead-acid battery based system.

How do the system design considerations translate into a robust system?

GX 4G modules

The professionals choice:

You’ll want to bring small devices on board for your trip. Or use household appliances like a microwave. These usually run of an AC outlet. Think of:

• Phone charger
• Refrigerator

Being able to plug-in these device saves you the trouble of finding a DC version.

Boat engines

Sailing yachts have one or two diesel engines (Catamarans) to get from harbour to horizon. The engines come with alternators to charge the engine batteries, drive fuel pumps, etc.

Once the starter batteries are recharged, the engines can also power the boat electrics and recharge the house battery. On bigger yachts you’ll find power hungry DC equipment such as anchor windlasses and bow thrusters. The engines have to be running before you can use them.

BatteryProtect

Discharging your battery too far will damage it. Adding a Victron BatteryProtect will disconnect the boat’s electronics when the battery voltage drops below a pre-set level. It will also automatically reconnect everything when the battery is sufficiently recharged.

There is more to a Victron BatteryProtect. The built-in shutdown delay ensures that vital electronics aren’t disconnected in error, i.e. when starting the engine causes a short drop in battery voltage.

Battery Management Systems

Battery management systems take excellent care of Lithium batteries, protecting the individual cells of LiFePO4 batteries against over voltage, under voltage and over temperature and will shut down or reduce charging (VE.Bus products only) or disconnect the loads when this occurs.

Victron Energy offers several BMS options, in general the VE.Bus BMS and smallBMS signal separate devices to disconnect the charging (Inverter/Chargers, Cyrix-Li, DC-DC chargers) or disconnect the loads (BatteryProtect, Inverter/Charger), the modular Lynx distribution system features the Lynx BMS and other modules for more control over the DC busbar. For vehicles and boats all-in-one functionalities are available in the Smart BMS versions for Victron Lithium batteries, but also include current limiting to protect the alternator from overheating and BatteryProtect-like functionality to shut down the loads when pre-set critical battery conditions are met.

Victron Energy also offers full flexibility when it comes to selecting a third-party off-grid battery bank (and their BMS) of choice. A large number of well supported Lithium battery manufacturers can be easily integrated through the use of a mandatory GX-device. This flexibility enables our customers to perfectly match their off-grid needs for their unique power situation. When working with unsupported brands, a Victron Energy Battery Monitor is required to pass on accurate state of charge readings to the wider system.

Battery Monitors

BatteryCombiner

The Cyrix BatteryCombiner is the only safe way to connect the house battery to the starter battery (to start your boat’s engines). With a BatteryCombiner you can charge the house battery from the alternator without running the risk of draining the starter battery (which always should be ready to go). When other sources of power are available (eg. shore/solar/generator power), the Cyrix BatteryCombiner will allow bi-directional charging from the house battery to the starter battery.

When the Voltages of the starter and house batteries are the same, use a Cyrix: its current rating should be equal or bigger than the current rating of the alternator. If the house battery is Lithium and the alternators Amperage is smaller than the house battery, or when the Voltages of the starter and house battery are different: use a Orion or Buck-Boost.

Boat Network

Keeping grips on all the systems on board can be a hassle. The solution: tie everything together in a single boat network using NMEA communication standards. Your boat network can include navigation equipment, tank senders, battery monitoring and much more. The status information can trigger alarms and shutdowns, adding to the safety on board. The Cerbo GX now supports the NMEA2000 out protocol, allowing you to monitor your boat’s network of systems from wherever you are.

The BMS 12/200 is a dedicated battery management system (BMS) that protects Victron Smart 12,8V LFP batteries against deep discharges, overcharging and high temperatures with up to 200 Amps maximum DC current. When critical values are exceeded, the BMS acts immediately: loads are disconnected physically in case of a deep discharge and charging is stopped when there is a risk of overcharging. High temperatures trigger an immediate end to both charging and discharging.

This is the only BMS that can be directly connected to an alternator, protecting them from overload/overheating. This works with a combination of an AB fuse (rated in accordance with the expected max load current of the alternator) and an internal programmable input (which limits the input current electronically to 80% of the AB fuse).

Please check your manufacturer for the maximum charging current of your alternator and size AB fuses of the BMS 12/200 accordingly, see manual.

When different Lithium batteries & higher voltages are used, other solutions are needed, such as the VE.bus BMS and Lynx Ion BMS.

Boat Electronics

A sailing yacht is home to several electronic devices. These are all connected to the house battery. Think of:

• Boat control panel
• Log/depth sounder
• Chart-plotter or GPS
• Navigation lights
• Bow thruster
• Interior lighting
• Music player

The Victron Cerbo GX is the communication-centre of your boat’s installation, allowing you to always have perfect control from wherever you are and maximises its performance. Simply connect through our Victron Remote Management (VRM) portal, or access directly, using the optional GX Touch 50 screen, a Multi Functional Display or our VictronConnect app thanks to its added Bluetooth capability.

The Victron Cerbo GX is an easy to use visual system. Instantly monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from PV, generator, and mains, or check tank levels and temperature measurements. Easily control the shore power input current limit, (auto)start/stop generator(s) or even set quiet periods to avoid starting the generator in the middle of the night. Change any setting to optimise the system, follow up on alerts, perform diagnostic checks and resolve challenges remotely. The Cerbo GX turns any power challenge into an effortless experience.

DC-DC chargers

DC-DC converters, or battery-to-battery chargers (converters with built-in charge algorithms) are used in dual battery systems, where the (smart) alternator and the start battery are combined with the service battery (of equal or different voltages) to charge it. They can also be used to charge applications that have dedicated batteries (eg. bow thrusters), or to power applications that have a voltage different than the service battery bank.

Most DC-DC chargers can be used in 12V or 24V systems and all are suitable for both lead acid and lithium batteries. Some DC-DC charger models can be parallel connected to increase the output current. DC-DC chargers are a perfect and safe solution to charge Lithium battery banks from smart alternators (and lead-acid batteries for that matter).

Charging lithium batteries from the alternator Most alternators cannot be directly connected to lithium batteries. A lithium battery will draw more current than the alternator can supply, which may result in permanent alternator damage. To not damage the alternator, current limiting is one of the options to stay within the safe zone of the alternator.

Victron offers multiple solutions to solve this problem, of which one of them are the DC-DC converters:

• DC-DC converters act as a current limiter between the alternator and the battery: the battery can be safely charged without blowing up the alternator.
• Victron also offers alternative solutions for dual battery systems powered by alternators. Some (smart) BMS products physically limit the current drawn from the alternator, in other systems, battery combiners might be a solid option. See the datasheets for more info.

GX GSM Dongle

The Victron GX GSM is a 3G cellular modem that enables GX devices with mobile internet for the system and connection to the VRM Portal, allowing you to monitor your system from remote. When the boat is in range of a 3G network, it will send data to the VRM website and you can monitor the boat from your smartphone. The GSM module adds tracking the boat, recording your trips and putting up a geo-fence around the boat. You will get an alert via mail when the boat travels outside the geo-fence area.

The Victron Energy Cerbo GX is the communication-centre of your systems installation, allowing you to always have perfect control from wherever you are and maximises its performance. The optional GX Touch 50 is a companion to the Cerbo GX, it’s five inch touch screen display gives an instant overview of your system and allows you to adjust settings in the blink of an eye.

Instantly monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from PV, generator, and mains, or check tank levels and temperature measurements. Easily control the shore power input current limit, (auto)start/stop generator(s) or even set quiet periods to avoid starting the generator in the middle of the night. Change any setting to optimise the system, follow up on alerts, perform diagnostic checks and resolve challenges remotely with the free Victron Remote Management (VRM) portal.

Galvanic Isolator

A galvanic isolator prevents electrolytic corrosion. The isolator is mounted directly behind the shore power connector on board. It blocks DC currents that might leak through the shore power earth terminal. These currents can cause corrosion to all metal parts under water, like the hull, propeller, shaft, etc. The galvanic isolator should have the same power rating as the incoming shore power.

It’s a misunderstanding that galvanic corrosion occurs only in metal and aluminium hulls. In fact it can occur on any boat as soon as a metallic part (the shaft and propeller) is in contact with water. Galvanic corrosion will quickly dissolve your sacrificial anodes, and attack the shaft, propeller and other metal parts in contact with water as soon as the boat is connected to the shore-side supply. It might therefore be tempting not to connect the ground conductor: this is however extremely dangerous because Ground Fault Current Interrupters will not work nor will a fuse blow in case of a short circuit to a metal part on the boat.

The safe option is to use a Galvanic Isolator for non-metal smaller boats, or use an isolation transformer for metal boats or boats with bigger systems.

House battery

The house battery stores power for the boat’s electrical system. Sailing yachts typically have long intervals between battery recharges and the house battery should have a generous capacity.

For a house battery you can choose from two types: lead-acid and lithium. There are various reasons to favour one over the other. Here are a few common ones:

Inverter/Charger

The inverter/charger is the heart of the system. In the marina, it charges the batteries from shore power. While sailing it inverts the energy from the boat’s battery into AC power for household devices. The switch from charging to inverting and from inverting to charging is seamless.

• Victron inverter/chargers come with a handful of outstanding features:
• PowerControl: automatically manage battery charging to prevent an overload of the generator or shore power.
• PowerAssist: uses the battery as a buffer to assist the shore power during peak power demand.
• Perfect power: even sensitive devices run flawlessly on the pure sine wave power.
• High peak-power: use motorised equipment without overheating.
• Low self consumption.

For this power profile we would recommend:

We would recommend our Multiplus-II inverter/charger. If you have a generator on board you’ll need a Quattro inverter/charger, which has an extra input (shore power and generator).

We strongly recommend 24 Volts for new boats. The higher voltage is simply a better choice when it comes to meeting the power demands of a modern sailing yacht. If your boat’s system is based on 12 Volts, select a 12 Volts unit instead.

MFD GX Integration

The Victron integration between our GX range and several leading Multi Functional Display manufacturer brands enables you to easily connect an MDF to the heart of your power system such as the Cerbo GX, or the GX enabled Multiplus-II GX. Once connected you can easily monitor and control your boat’s power system, right on your Glass Bridge.

Shore Power

In the marina, the boat will be connected to shore power. Shore power recharges the batteries. It can also be used for maintenance and to run large AC loads.

Often shore power is limited in how much power you can draw, i.e. just 10 Amps. Berths with higher ratings might not always be available. Victron inverter/chargers allow you set a maximum shore power current. Now you can charge your batteries and turn on any equipment without blowing a fuse.

Sometimes shore power is less than perfect. You might run into voltage drops if you’re at the far end of the harbour. There could also be power surges, which could harm sensitive equipment on board. Victron’s inverter/chargers smooth out these problems and turn bad power into perfect power.

Solar charger

A solar charger- also called MPPT controller, harvests the power from the solar panels to charge the house battery. Solar chargers have the same charging cycles as our regular, fully automatic, battery chargers. When your boat is moored without shore spower, solar power is a great way to keep the batteries charged.

In a marine environment, the performance of solar panels changes constantly. Victron’s solar controllers use ultra fast maximum power point tracking to squeeze up to 30% more power out of your panels.

The rating of the solar charger is defined by the size of the solar panel. For solar panels of less than 150W or less, choose a 75/10 charger. If your solar panel produces between 150 and 220W, pick a 75/15 instead.

Solar panel

More and more sailing yachts area equipped with solar panels. After all, they extend the autonomy range without the noise of a diesel engine and… for free. Victron offers a wide range of small, highly efficient, solar panels that are just perfect for boats.

Starter Battery

The starter battery is needed to start your boat’s engine. These batteries are different from house batteries and engineered to deal with a large discharge current. The starter battery should always be ready to go. It’s best to isolate the important starter battery from all other electrical circuits on board, so it cannot be accidentally drained of power.

VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart dongle

The Bluetooth dongle enables you to use the VictronConnect app with VE.Direct enabled devices (without Bluetooth built-in). With the app you can have real-time insight and full control, and you can access all VE.Direct enabled devices such as the smaller VE.Direct inverters, the BMV 70x series battery monitors or MPPT solar controllers.

VictronConnect

All Victron products on your boat can be monitored and controlled from the palm of your hand. Just connect the VictronConnect App via Bluetooth and you’ll have direct access to values like battery voltage and current. You can also turn devices on or off, as well as change their settings.

VRM - Victron Remote Management

Monitor and manage.

Monitor and manage your Victron Energy systems from anywhere and catch potential issues early by setting alerts and alarms. With VRM you are always in perfect control from wherever you are.

VRM works with a GX-device such as the Cerbo GX with internet connection, the GlobalLink 520 or GSM LTE 4-g for smaller systems.

Monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from solar, generator and mains in real-time. Optimise the energy harvest and usage with history graphs and detailed analytical reports. Catch potential issues early by setting alerts and follow up on alarms to prevent definitive system failure.

Easily control the shore power input current limit, switch on the inverter, (auto)start/stop generators or even set quiet periods to avoid starting the generator in the middle of the night. With VRM you can change any setting, follow up on alarms, perform diagnostic checks and resolve challenges from wherever you are.

Lynx Smart BMS

The Lynx Smart BMS is a dedicated Battery Management System for Victron Lithium Smart Batteries (for non Victron Lithium batteries, see below). There are multiple BMS-es available for our Smart Lithium series of batteries, and the Lynx Smart is the most feature rich and complete option. Its main features are:

• Built-in 500A contactor, used as a fallback safety mechanism and also suitable as a remote controllable main systems switch.
• Battery monitor, indicating state of charge percentage and more data.
• Pre-alarm signal: provide a warning before the system shuts down due to -for example- a low cell.
• Bluetooth for use with our VictronConnect App, for setup and monitoring.
• Local and remote monitoring using a Victron GX device, for example the Cerbo GX.

Battery Management System

The dedicated battery management system (BMS) protects Victron Lithium Smart batteries against deep discharges, overcharging and high temperatures. When critical values are exceeded, the BMS acts immediately: loads are disconnected physically in case of a deep discharge and charging is stopped when there is a risk of overcharging. High temperatures trigger an immediate end to both charging and discharging.

Battery monitoring

Lynx Distribution system

Non Victron Lithium batteries

Lynx Distributor

The Lynx Distributor is a modular DC busbar, with locations for four DC fuses. It will monitor the status of each fuse, and indicate its condition with a LED on the front. When connected to a Lynx Smart BMS or Lynx Shunt, the status of the fuses will be visible in VictronConnect and VRM (when the Lynx Smart BMS is connected to a GX-device).

Multiple Lynx Distributors can be used to connect all the DC-loads and charge sources on one side of the BMS, on the other side, a Lynx Power In (without fuses) or another Lynx Distributor (with fuses) can be used to connect the battery bank to the modular busbar.

This product is part of the modular Lynx busbar system that also provides the Lynx Smart BMS, a dedicated Battery Management System for Victron Lithium Smart Batteries (for non Victron Lithium batteries, use the Lynx Shunt).

Power consumption will vary from yacht to yacht and from owner to owner, even on sailing yachts. Here are two examples - with a normal and a heavier daily energy consumption - of what an Optimal Energy plan for a sailing yacht could look like. Please note that many more factors come into play when designing and installing your optimal solution: your Victron Professional will gladly help you with that.

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MultiPlus magic: small generator, big power.

An expert view: lithium or agm aboard, get your wiring right with wiring unlimited, see your system performance right from your glass bridge, see all our marine products and more configurations., real-time insight and complete control with our victronconnect app, find your local dealer.

Our well established global network of local Victron Professionals is dedicated to help find an optimal solution for your challenge.

Count on our worldwide service

At Victron we find it essential that customers are serviced and supported quickly and competently. This is why our global network of Victron Professionals pack the highest level of technical know-how and are committed to deliver repairs as fast as possible.

So you can start or continue your journey, wherever you’re headed.

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Inverter with shore power - Question ???

• Thread starter tpenfield
• Start date Nov 27, 2021

• Nov 27, 2021

Greetings, My new-2-me boat, a 2016 Cruisers Yacht 338 Mid-cabin Bowrider has shore power and an inverter system. I am not sure how is all is supposed to work. I have an AC outlet in the cabin and another AC outlet in the head compartment. It seems like the AC outlets want to run off the inverter system and not shore power. I also have 2 refrigerators on the boat that could run off of AC or DC. Of course running everything from the inverter system is power limiting and seemingly inefficient, if you have shore power available. The Owner's Manual is a bit vague on the inverter system, and I have not investigated too much. I am just wondering what is the typical setup for a boat? Does all the the AC power have to come from the inverter? Or . . . should I be looking for some sort of a switch that allows AC directly from shore power? (when I'm connected to shore power) Most of the AC stuff, I would want to use only when I am connected to shore power, and only use the inverter in a pinch. I plan on installing a microwave oven in the cabin, and I'd like to get this inverter/shore power stuff figured out beforehand. TIA for any guidance on these systems.  

• Nov 28, 2021

"IF" designed properly, everything should run off shore power and only run off the inverter when switched. Most Friges are 12VDC and 120AC and don't use an inverter  

• Nov 29, 2021

alldodge said: "IF" designed properly, everything should run off shore power and only run off the inverter when switched. Most Friges are 12VDC and 120AC and don't use an inverter Click to expand...

Do the fridges have a AC and DC breakers? Have seen some installed that only run on DC but still have a breaker Oh and I have an additional shore power breaker next to the shore power connection  

Attachments

Yes, once I have a chance to go through things more extensively, I may put on my 'electrical engineer's hat' and do some re-engineering of the system to better utilize shore power when it is available. It sort of looks like an arbitrary split of the 2 systems.  

Vice Admiral

Did you try running the fridge and stuff with the breakers off at the inverter?  

Supreme Mariner

• Nov 30, 2021

Many inverters have a built in transfer switch. It makes the shore power the priority so that it basically bypasses the inverter function when shore power is live. If your inverter does not have an internal transfer switch, there would likely be an external transfer switch. Follow the shore power cable and see where it goes to.  

Scott Danforth

Grumpy vintage moderator still playing with boats.

Ted, have you called Cruisers customer service?  

Scott Danforth said: Ted, have you called Cruisers customer service? Click to expand...

Petty Officer 2nd Class

I think the use of the inverter is an attempt to keep the shore power amperage in check. If you get the hot water heater and both fridges, the mic... etc, all running on shore power, that's a lot of amps. A battery charger on the other hand for intermittent charging is not a big amp eater. With the inverter setup, you can deliver a lot of amps for shorter periods and then charge the batteries off hours, all without running a cord the size of welding cables for shore power. I think if you change that out you may run into under amperage problems at peak times.  

tpenfield said: Yes, we are good friends now. As I look into the charging system . . . which is the Xantrex Freedom SW 2012 model (2000 watt/12 volt) . . . it may provide the type of functionality I'm looking for. There is a 'System Control Panel' , which is part of an 'Xanbus' system, which I'll have to figure out. There are a few more bits and pieces that I'll have to figure out, but it may do what I am expecting . . . i.e. use shore power when available. It seems like every step of the way as I learn about the boat, I am downloading another manual to read through. My head is starting to hurt Click to expand...

I'll have some more time to work with the electrical system this weekend . . . hoping to get it figured out. It does look like the system senses shore power and handles the source of AC accordingly.  

• Jan 14, 2022

Quick update . . . It appears that the inverter figures out what it needs to do and balances shore power with inverter power. I believe it also can charge the house batteries from shore power, as needed. I am wanting to add solar power to the electrical system of the boat, since the boat will be sitting on a mooring during the summer, and it would be nice to maintain the batteries while the boat is not in use. My plan is to buy a 100 watt 12v solar kit. mount the panel on the top of the radar arch and run the wiring down to the solar 'controller' (probably mounted somewhere easily accessible - maybe the cabin). Then use power diodes to isolate the power feed to each of the 3 (three) battery banks. There are 3 battery banks, as mentioned, 2 batteries for the Port engine, 2 for the Starboard engine, and 3 batteries for the House power. So, there would be about 14 watts (max) of power to each battery (or about 1 amp). While running, the engines charge the batteries (of course). The house batteries get re-charging from the Port engine, as per the schematic that is displayed in the engine compartment. I am wondering if 100 watts is enough to maintain the batteries? It would seem so to me, since trickle chargers are much less current (just a few milliamps). I have done a little bit of searching and not found too much in terms of examples, guidance, or "how-to's". Thoughts/experiences welcome. TIA.  

Not sure if solar will keep up. I've seen a few at the marina, and if we have to move them sometimes the batts are low/dead. One has a wind charger propeller thing. It always is ok. Wind around here is fairly constant; cloud cover slows solar down a bit.  

Ted, have you looked at the flexible solar panels? I have seen boat covers with them where the panels are over the windshield  

Scott Danforth said: Ted, have you looked at the flexible solar panels? I have seen boat covers with them where the panels are over the windshield Click to expand...

tpenfield said: Quick update . . . It appears that the inverter figures out what it needs to do and balances shore power with inverter power. I believe it also can charge the house batteries from shore power, as needed. I am wanting to add solar power to the electrical system of the boat, since the boat will be sitting on a mooring during the summer, and it would be nice to maintain the batteries while the boat is not in use. My plan is to buy a 100 watt 12v solar kit. mount the panel on the top of the radar arch and run the wiring down to the solar 'controller' (probably mounted somewhere easily accessible - maybe the cabin). Then use power diodes to isolate the power feed to each of the 3 (three) battery banks. There are 3 battery banks, as mentioned, 2 batteries for the Port engine, 2 for the Starboard engine, and 3 batteries for the House power. So, there would be about 14 watts (max) of power to each battery (or about 1 amp). While running, the engines charge the batteries (of course). The house batteries get re-charging from the Port engine, as per the schematic that is displayed in the engine compartment. I am wondering if 100 watts is enough to maintain the batteries? It would seem so to me, since trickle chargers are much less current (just a few milliamps). I have done a little bit of searching and not found too much in terms of examples, guidance, or "how-to's". Thoughts/experiences welcome. TIA. Click to expand...

• Jan 15, 2022

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Power Inverter for my Sailboat or Generator? Why Not Both?

“I was deciding between a power inverter for my sailboat or a generator when I identified that they both fulfill different needs. So, I decided to go with both … and boy am I glad.” -Claude G., Somewhere in the Gulf of Mexico

As all seasoned sailors know (and most novice sailors for that matter), AC power on a sailboat originates from three main sources: plugging into “shore” power, using a generator or using a power inverter. When pulling into a marina or having your sailboat docked, you’re obviously going to use the supplied shore power. But, when you’re on the move, your options are limited to two sources: generator or power inverter.

I’ve used a generator on sailboats previously and I wanted to explore my options with my new boat, mostly because I wasn’t crazy about the smell of spent gasoline or the noise produced by the generator when I’m out under the stars. Given, I had quite an older generator and I’m sure they’re at least a little bit quieter (and less smelly, maybe).

As I began exploring my options, I identified two main power needs: 1. The need for continuous power to run my air conditioner and deep freezer. 2. The need for easy access to (silent) power not worth cranking the generator up for, such as blending a quick drink or running the toaster in the morning.

I began talking with other sailors who were quite happy having both on board. Most of the sailors commented on the generators being noisy, and even rattling obnoxiously, but they agreed they would rather have air conditioning on those unbearable days. Some also fished quite a bit and liked being able to keep their deep freezer going after cleaning and dividing the meat from a big catch. When it came to the power inverters, most of the sailors commented on the convenience. The quiet, clean power was nice to have any time they wanted to use electronic devices. Some even ran their TVs, laptops and DVD players via their power inverter.

So what did I do? I bought a power inverter for my sailboat … I also bought a generator.

Yes, the generator is noisy and it runs on gasoline, which means it smells like gasoline even though I have it well ventilated. I use my generator to run my air conditioning for long periods and also my deep freezer when it’s stocked. I even used my generator to charge my boat’s batteries a few times when I noticed they were low (I purchased a marine-rated AC battery charger for this very reason).

The power inverter is the real treat. It’s such an ease when I want to use electricity just for a moment when the generator is off. I can plug in my transistor radio, make a cup of coffee and plug in my space heater on chilly nights. It’s always available and it’s quiet, which is nice when I’m anchored in a serene harbor and want to listen to something other than a noisy gas engine.

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Ranking the Best Marine Power Inverters of 2024

Xantrex Prowatt 1000 SW Marine Power Inverter

Rally Marine Grade 400W Power Inverter

Go Power! GP-3000HD 3000-Watt Heavy Duty Marine Power Inverter

If you’re serious about boating, you need the best power inverter. Marine power inverters change the DC power from your boat battery into useful AC power. AC power is what allows most common appliances to function. You can plug in any appliance you choose and get it running when you have access to AC power. That’s anything from a blender to make drinks to a charger to charge your phone. You can even kick back and play Xbox if you want. And of course, it’s also handy for plugging in power tools or cooking equipment.

One of the big benefits to using a power inverter is the efficiency of it. While a generator could provide power, it’s harder to use. Generators run on fuel. They also produce exhaust. A power inverter is quick and clean. All it needs is your boat’s battery to run. Then you have access to high power for a long period of time. With an inverter and charger combo, you can power your boat and appliances for even longer.

You do need to make sure you selected the correct power inverter for your boat. Not every power inverter is compatible with every boat. Likewise, you need to make sure your power inverter can handle the appliances you’re plugging into it. More and bigger appliances require more power.

The Xantrex Prowatt is one of the best power inverters on the market. It features a continuous 1000-watt output. There is an easy-to-read display that shows output power and volts. There’s also one USB and GFCI plugs that are included. GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter. It helps prevent you from getting shocked if there’s a fault somewhere in the circuit. You can safely plug in numerous devices to the two AC outlets.

When idle, the Xantrex Pro watt power inverter minimizes energy use to help save power. It also comes with an optional remote switch, so you don’t need to walk over and turn it on all the time when you need it.

At just over seven pounds is not going to break your back moving it around. It also has a 900-watt pure sine wave power output. Compared to similar power inverters, this one also doesn’t make very much noise. On a hot day you may want to keep an eye on where you have it placed, however. You definitely want to keep this cool. The possibility of it overheating and direct sunlight is very real. The price is also on par with cheaper modified sine wave power inverters. That makes this one of the best power inverters you can buy.

• Buy on Amazon   →
• Buy on Walmart   →

If you’re not in the market for a massive power inverter, Rally has you covered. Their 400-watt power inverter comes with a USB charging port and two AC parts. The output peaks at 800 watts so you don’t want to use this for something like a microwave. However, if you’re just looking to spend a day on the boat and keep your phone charged, this is a great option. It’s cheaper than the larger units, but it gets the job done. It’s built for marine work, which makes it corrosion resistant. Safety features include low battery shutdown protection. There’s also overload and thermal protection. The company also includes a 2-year warranty. This is much better than some of the more expensive options. While this may not work for hardcore use it can charge a car’s battery or run some smaller power tools.

The Go Power 3000-watt power inverter has 3000 watts of continuous power. The safety features offer protection from overload, under voltage, and over-voltage. Four 120-volt AC outlets are available to power your various appliances. There is no USB outlet, however. It does warn you of low battery, and there is an auto shutdown feature with an alarm. The company provides a one-year warranty. Although this is not a pure sine inverter, it has proven to be very reliable for many boaters. For a modified sine wave power inverter, this is one of the best. Expect it to be able to power the TV, a laptop, a microwave, power tools, and much more. If you need a very high power output, this is one of the best power inverters you can get.

GoWISE Power 2000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter

The GoWISE Pure sine wave power inverter offers three outlets and also a USB port. If you need two USB ports, you can simply plug in an adapter. That should be adequate to handle all the power needs for the devices on your boat. It’s one of the highest power inverters you’re going to find on the market. It offers a continuous 2000 watts of continuous power output. The peak output is 4000 watts. Low harmonic distortion technology makes this close to the level of power you expect to get at home. It also features a 5-protection safety features system to keep you safe. That protects against thermals, low voltage, over-voltage, under-voltage, and overload. There is even a remote switch and battery cables included in your purchase.

The remote is good for up to 15 feet. Warning indicators will let you know when the inverter has run for too long. It also powers off when the volts go too low. Some owners have complained that it doesn’t always meet peak power output. It may max out before 2000 watts. But it does offer quality power anywhere on your boat. And the operation is usually quiet.

Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

If your big concern when it comes to power inverters is safety, the Cantonape 1500-watt pure sine wave is for you. You’re looking at six levels of safety features to offer protection when you choose this inverter. Overload, overheating, over-voltage, under-voltage, short circuit, and reverse polarity. With the 1500-watt continuous output and 3000-watt surge, it can handle most electronic devices. You can safely plug a fridge into this inverter without worry.

There are two AC Outlets available. Battery and output voltage are listed on a built-in display. The cooling fan is a smart fan and we’ll adjust speed according to the temperature of the unit. The case is also aluminum, so it can handle life at sea. Spare fuses are also included, not to mention a one-year warranty.

$129.99 Amazon  →

AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200-Watt Pure Sine Inverter

The AIMS power inverter offers up 1200 watts output. it is cheaper than many other pure sine wave inverters. The trade-off is that it is not as powerful as some others. Depending on your needs however, this could be a great fit. If you’re only looking to operate a few appliances or electronics, this is a good idea. A cooling fan keeps the unit from overheating. However, it is noisier than some. It’s also available with an optional remote control. Hardwire terminals are also included when you buy this. There’s a transfer switch that controls the inverter’s pass through. It does not have USB ports or AC outlets, so this is not for casual use.

Power Bright PW2300-12 Marine Power Inverter

The Power Bright 2300 marine power inverter is built to change 2300-watt 12-volt DC to 110-volt AC power. This is modified sine wave model. It runs 2300 watts of continuous power with a 4600-watt peak power at the high end of consumption. This makes it a standout compared to most power inverters. The case is anodized aluminum for durability. There is a built-in cooling fan as well. The cooling fan runs fairly quietly. There are two 120-volt AC outlets, but no power cords included, you’ll need to buy those. It’s powerful enough to run a freezer if you want to.

It features overvoltage and under-voltage shutdown. There’s also a low voltage alarm. It features overload and thermal shutdown as well. There’s also a wireless remote control. The remote is effective up to 150 feet.

Magnum Energy MS2000

The Magnum ms2000 is a pure sine wave power inverter and charger. This one is designed to be permanently installed in your boat. Most others are portable ones you’d carry around with you. But, since it’s both an inverter and a charger, it does serve dual purpose. It offers up 2,000 watts of continuous power. Because it’s a pure sine wave inverter, it can handle delicate electronics. Things like dimmer switches or charging phones or even your TV and Xbox. It features a five-stage smart charging system. This is able to speed up charging while protecting your battery. It also uses less power from a generator than your standard charger. Most chargers use 23 amps Per 100 amps. The Magnum Energy will operate at a lean 15 amps per 100 amps.

The housing is designed for marine use. it features code and circuit boards to protect from corrosion. You can write it off of 12 volt or 24-volt DC power. As is to be expected it features the protections that most other units offer. That means no fear of over voltage for under voltage shut down. this is definitely not for casual outings or you just need to charge your cell phone. If you’re looking for some serious power, the Magnum energy might be the best inverter you’ll find.

ProMariner True Power 2000PS Pure Sine Wave Charger

For true versatility, the Promariner pure sine wave charger and inverter is one of the best. This power inverter can also function as a battery charger. It’s definitely a bigger investment than most other converter seal fine. But its dual purpose makes it worth the money. Combined with a durable construction, this is truly a powerful piece of technology.

Featuring 2000w continuous output, this inverter can handle most of what you throw at it. Because it’s a pure sine wave inverter, it’s safe for your most sensitive Electronics. As a battery charger you can get 70 amps from it. It’s capable of charging a 12-volt battery. There are also 7 charger profiles you can use and three stages of charging.

Both the inverter and charger are automatic. There is no loud noise when the unit is in operation and it features an instant AC transfer switch.

Tripp Lite Power Marine Inverter

The Tripp Lite power inverter offers up 2000 watts of continuous power output. Peak output takes it up to 4000 Watts. It features two AC outlets as well as a ventilated case with a cooling fan. It’s also designed to be tough and durable and features a one-year warranty. It includes protections including overload, short circuit, high voltage, low voltage, and overheating.

That 42 lbs it’s definitely a bulky unit. The cooling fan is good at keeping the temperatures down for the size, however. The durable case is also moisture resistant, which makes it perfect for boat use. it’s all so easily mounted on any flat surface. You can expect this inverter to last you a long time if you take care of it.

IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter

The IpowerBingo pure sine wave power inverter has a 2000-watt continuous output. Peak power is 4000 Watt. An LED display will show you your voltage output. There is overload, short circuit, and over temperature protection. It also offers reverse polarity and over and under voltage protection. Bibs ideal operating temperature ranges from 0 degrees Celsius up to 40 degrees. When it does get too hot, there is a cooling fan that is nearly silent. High gauge cables have been included. There’s also a high-quality aluminum inductance.

 Amazon  →

Things to Remember

Choosing the best power inverter depends heavily on what you plan to do on your boat. If all you need to do is charge your phone, then power output may not be your Chief concern. In that case, you may want to focus mainly on the price of the inverter. Any inverter will have a few factors you’re going to want to check out. Once you know how the inverter works and what it can do, you can make an informed choice.

Continuous Wattage

Arguably the most important thing to consider when buying a power inverter. When you know the continuous wattage, you know how many appliances the inverter can power. For instance, if you have a 2000-watt inverter, you know you can handle an 800-watt microwave. One thing to remember is that most inverters will not be able to offer you 100% efficiency. If it says 2,000 watts, expect it to max out at 1800 watts. Most inverters can only pull about 90% efficiency. Just to be safe, plan for that as your baseline.

Depending on what you want to do with your inverter, you’ll need to account for the outlets available. Some offer one, two, three or more AC outlets. Some will also feature USB charging ports. More outlets offer more versatility. But you have to remember your space concerns as well. How many appliances can you plug into the space you have available?

Inverters are sold as either modified or pure sine wave forms. Modified sine wave inverters are less expensive. Pure sine wave inverters are a more efficient power source. They can create more power and transfer more power. If you are using smaller electronics, a modified inverter will probably do the job for you. If you’re running some serious electronics, you’ll want a pure sine wave inverter. Pure sine wave inverters are able to handle large appliances. Think things like refrigerators and stoves.

Safety Features

An unprotected power inverter can fail you in a number of ways. There are up to six different levels of protection that you can get from certain power inverters. The more levels of protection, the better off you’ll be. These include:

• Overload protection
• Short circuit protection
• Reverse polarity protection
• Overheating protection
• Under voltage protection
• Over-voltage protection

Any one of these could cause serious damage with your electronics if something were to go wrong. An inverter that includes protection against these things will keep your devices secure.

Some inverters feature GFCI output. These are safer to use than typical AC outlets. They greatly reduce the risk of shocks. Remember, the amount of power flowing through and inverter can be dangerous. 120 volts could be dangerous, especially in wet conditions on a boat.

Even though this may not seem like a major concern, the case for your inverter is important. Not every inverter is meant for marine use. Tough aluminum cases resist corrosion. A power inverter that’s meant for an RV might not be able to handle extended use on the water. This is especially true if you’re using your boat on the ocean. The salt spray could potentially cause damage to a normal inverter.

It should come as no surprise that a power inverter can draw a lot of power. You need to make sure your batteries are up to the task. Many serious boaters will pair their inverter with a generator. That ensures you never run low on power. You can also get an engine alternator. That will recharge your battery while the engine is running. That way your inverter will not drain you dry. Also, many boaters opt to use solar panels. You can even get wind generators. Always make sure you are sure about how to handle this kind of wiring. If you’re not, get a professional to do it for you. Mistakes could leave you out on the water with no power at all.

The Bottom Line

A good power inverter can make boating life much more enjoyable. If you spend a lot of time on the water, you probably look at your boat the way people on land look at RVs. You need to have a reliable power source to operate your electronics. Whether that means running a microwave, or plugging in a computer, it makes things easier. Even keeping your phones charged can be a hassle sometimes. The best power inverter can make your boat almost as convenient as your home in terms of power usage.

Make sure you are buying an inverter that matches your needs. If you are planning on extensive hours of use, then you’ll need and more powerful inverter. If you just need to keep a few things charged, then a smaller unit may work for you. Stay safe and have fun, that’s what boating is supposed to be about.

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

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How to test inverter for shore power ELCI failure without ELCI present

• Thread starter Fredct
• Start date Jun 21, 2021
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Background: My boat has a Xantrex Freedom HF inverter/charger. It was professionally installed. Here is what happens: 1- At my marina when connected to shore: no problem. Shore electrical is many years old. 2- At other marinas with new pedestals (ELCI-style), shore breaker is tripped after a few seconds, indicating a >30 mA leak between neutral and ground. Per this forum and others, this problem is usually related to improper wiring of the inverter, mainly the need to separate the pre-inverter neutral bus from the post-inverter neutral bus. In layman's terms: place air con and water heater (which only run on shore power) before inverter. My boat has a common ground and neutral bus for all. So far so good. My issue is as follows. With the shore cable OFF, I measure 170 kOhms between neutral and ground (at the connector). This is because the Xantrex bonds the AC neutral and ground when not connected to shore. It breaks that bond after a few seconds when shore power is detected. To make sure that I correctly identify my problem (improper wiring or inverter failure), I want to simply disconnect the heater and see if I still trip the ELCI. However, my marina does not have pedestals with ELCI! How can I continue to troubleshoot and test?  

Fredct said: My boat has a common ground and neutral bus for all . Click to expand

I suspect as much but the inverter could be faulty as well. Is there a way to test?  

Fredct said: I suspect as much but the inverter could be faulty as well. Is there a way to test? Click to expand

So this is my goal then: create a new pre-inverter bus as shown in high level overview. Sounds like there will not be a way to test until i get to a dock with an ELCi equipped pedestal.  

Attachments

Fredct said: So this is my goal then: create a new pre-inverter bus as shown in high level overview. Sounds like there will not be a way to test until i get to a dock with an ELCi equipped pedestal. Click to expand

I do not have aircon, just a Raritan hot water heater. We never use the heater when inverting (when not connected to shore). From what I figured out, the 3 GFI outlet neutrals + the water heater neutral are connected to a common neutral bus, post-inverter. Same with the ground. When I am disconnected from shore, the inverter bonds the neutral and ground. When connected to shore, the inverter breaks (or is supposed to break ) that bond. 90% of the load is to charge the battery. Ours is a very small boat with a single stater battery and a single house battery. There is a switch/breaker between shore and inverter. The GFI outlets have a on/off switch (not breaker - applied to black only). The water heater also has its own on/off switch (also not a breaker, also on hot or black) which we always leave off. I need to check but both circuits may be fused. Why would I have an ELCI problem when the 3 GFIs and the heater are in OFF position? Regardless of Xantrex recommendation for a separate neutral bus for the heater, wouldn't this indicate a problem with the inverter itself? It sounds like the simplest way to test is to wait till I go back to a new marina and then disconnect the heater altogether. If that does not work, disconnect each GFI neutral 1 by 1 until the problem is fixed. If that does not work, disconnect ALL neutrals from bus except the inverter neutral. If that does not work, the inverter is faulty or otherwise not installed properly. All of this is not very proactive unfortunately.  

Stu Jackson

dlochner said: On shore power you the white and green wires should not be connected any where on the boat. When the boat is off grid and using the inverter, the white and green wire should be connected. Click to expand

Fredct said: It was professionally installed. Click to expand

Fredct said: My boat has a common ground and neutral bus for all. Click to expand

@Stu Jackson I am not the owner who got this installed. I know it was professionally installed and I know that I saw a single neutral bus and single ground bus for all 4 A/C circuits. When disconnected from shore, the neutral and ground were bonded, as they should. When connected to ELCI pedestal with these 4 circuits OFF (on the hot/black wire), the breaker trips within 1 or 2 seconds. I read elsewhere that the inverter does not break the bond automatically, it takes a few seconds. The ELCI is quicker to trip. I do not mind the work, I just don't want to randomly change things without being able to test or at least isolate the problem. One final detail, the green AC bus was jumpered to the DC black bus. These seemed correct with I looked a the Freedom installation guide.  

Fredct said: I read elsewhere that the inverter does not break the bond automatically, it takes a few seconds. The ELCI is quicker to trip. Click to expand

Fredct said: The GFI outlets have a on/off switch (not breaker - applied to black only). The water heater also has its own on/off switch (also not a breaker, also on hot or black) which we always leave off. I need to check but both circuits may be fused. Click to expand

The switches are definitely switches. They may be fused but i am far from vessel so can't check tonight. For the ELCI to trip, it must detect a 30 mA current. For there to be a current, there must be a load. If all 4 circuits are OFF, there can be no load from these devices. At that initial moment, the only load is the inverter drawing AC to generate DC. That's what made me suspect the inverter, all things being equal. Again, I am looking for a sure way to test without have access to ELCI pedestal.  

Fredct said: At that initial moment, the only load is the inverter drawing AC to generate DC. Click to expand

@dlochner So it draws from shore to charge while the neutral and ground are still bonded. That could be tested on ELCI pedestal by disconnecting the inverter white from the bus.  

Fredct said: @dlochner So it draws from shore to charge while the neutral and ground are still bonded. That could be tested on ELCI pedestal by disconnecting the inverter white from the bus. Click to expand

Fredct said: With the shore cable OFF, I measure 170 kOhms between neutral and ground (at the connector). Click to expand

@Stu Jackson I thought about turning off the inverter BUT, here is what happens. 1- shore to boat with in-boat shore AC switch off = GOOD. As soon as in-boat AC switch is ON, the inverter automatically turns on, creating the fault. @dlochner Yours is a good point. I checked resistance between neutral and ground at 2 places (NO SHORE AC PRESENT). At the connector: 170 kOhms. At the post-inverter neutral and ground buses = 0 ohm. The 0 ohm makes sense because the ground is bonded in that state. The 170 kOhms pre-inverter does NOT make sense. In fact, now that I write this down, I see that this could be the issue. The ELCI will trip immediately if neutral has path to ground. If we extrapolate, I may have a leak pre-inverter between Neutral and Ground. not sure...  

Fredct said: In fact, now that I write this down, I see that this could be the issue. The ELCI will trip immediately if neutral has path to ground. If we extrapolate, I may have a leak pre-inverter between Neutral and Ground. not sure... Click to expand

@dlochner I will do just that. I am not ready to ditch inverter yet unless faulty. One, I do not want to rewire if i can avoid it. Two, we occasionally run our business from the boat and the limited inverter capacity is enough to power our hotspot. What i need to do is test the wiring from the in-boat shore power connection to the inverter IN, with a special focus on white and green. more to follow. I will do a diagram first. Of course, boat is very cramped so I anticipate slow progress.  

Go Power 200W Pure Sine Wave Inverter - GP-ISW200-12

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8 Best Marine Power Inverters In 2023

Reviewed By Herb Benavent / Boating Editor

OUR TOP PICK

GoWISE Power PS1003 2000W Pure Sine Wave

Editors choice.

Xantrex PROwatt 1000 SW 806-1210

PowerBright PW2300-12

The top 8 marine power inverters in 2023.

• 1. GoWISE Power PS1003 2000W Pure Sine Wave
• 2. Xantrex PROwatt 1000 SW 806-1210
• 3. PowerBright PW2300-12
• 4. Go Power! 3000-Watt Heavy Duty High Wattage
• 5. Rally Marine Grade 400W USB Charging Port
• 6. IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave
• 7. Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave
• 8. ProMariner True Power 2000PS Charger

A power inverter is a handy piece of equipment to have on your boat. It converts DC power from your marine batteries to AC power giving you a safe and reliable power supply to power the electronic devices, entertainment systems and appliances you have on-board. 

There is quite a choice of inverters on the market. To make your choice easier, we selected some excellent marine inverters with different power outputs and waveforms. To pick out the best boat inverter for your needs, go through our reviews and buying guide below where we break down the details.

The best pure sine wave inverter you can rely on to power any appliance, audio/visual equipment, or mobile electronics you have on your boat without a hitch is GoWISE PS1003 boat inverter. An ETL certified pure sine inverter with low harmonic distortion and a 60Hz frequency, it provides clean power, maximum efficiency and a pleasant user experience.

Power Output and Outlets

2000W continuous power with 4000W surge capability is plenty of wattage for boat power needs. The pure sine wave with low harmonic distortion and soft start technology delivers clean power similar in quality to the AC power at home and safe for any piece of equipment connected to it whether it's a computer, a microwave or a laser printer. It’s equipped with 4 charger sockets – 3 AC output outlets and 1 USB port.

Features and Operation

The charger is very safe for your devices since it comes with 5 protection systems – thermal, overload, over voltage, under voltage and it has a low voltage alarm and LED indicator. It comes with a remote switch for turning it on or off.  Being a pure sine inverter, it runs quietly and efficiently and has two air conditioning fans on the side for cool operation.

• Stand Out Features - Why We Love It
• A pure sine wave inverter safe for the most sensitive equipment
• Low harmonic distortion with a THD <3%
• Low frequency inverter with soft start low interference tech
• Four charger sockets – 3 AC outlets and 1 USB port

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 2000W Peak Power: 4000W Dimension: 17.1 x 9.3 x 4 inches

Featuring GFCI only output, Xantrex PROwatt pure sine inverter is specifically designed for use on floating ground systems. This means that it works great when installed on water vessels and the low frequency pure sine wave can power even your most sensitive computer and entertainment equipment. All these qualities make it one of the most popular boating inverters. 

This top rated boat inverter has 1000W continuous output and is equipped with two GFCI AC receptacles and a built-in USB port. An LCD display shows volts and output power. As you can expect with a top notch pure sine inverter, charger operation is very efficient and quiet.  

Protective features include low voltage alarm and shutdown, over voltage protection, overload shutdown and over temperature shutdown. Xantrex makes reliable chargers and this one is no different. Quality is excellent all around and this is a good power inverter and tough enough to operate in 32°F to 104°F temperatures.

• GFCI only output charger ideal for boats
• True power pure sine inverter safe for sensitive devices
• A wide range of operating temperatures 32°F − 104°F
• Dual GFCI AC receptacles for safe operation

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1000W Peak Power: 2000W Dimensions: 8.7 x 13.4 x 3.5 inches

For powering typical resistive loads such as appliances and lights, PowerBright 12-volt modified sine wave inverter is a reliable and cost effective charger. What separates it from many other inverters is the anodized aluminum casing and the sophisticated microprocessors and transistors housed inside it. They enable it to run more reliably and efficiently and last longer than other units in its class.  

2300W continuous power and 4600W surge rating make PowerBright a fairly strong inverter. If you’re concerned that it is a modified wave inverter, it uses sophisticated technology to protect even the most sensitive electronics. Its advanced transistors enable it to start and run difficult reactive loads such as freezers without overloading. Outlets include two 3-prong AC outlets (120V).  

You can connect the inverter directly to a battery, or plug it into a car lighter jack. The input and output wattages are displayed on the LED display. Safety features include an overload indicator, an audible low-voltage alarm and auto-shut off in case of overload, thermal or short circuit. Built-in cooling fan and heat sink design ensure the charger runs cool.

• Durable anodized aluminum casing
• More reliable and efficient than standard modified inverters
• Two 3-prong 120V AC outlets
• CE approved and ROHS compliant
• Efficiency up to 90 percent power factor
• Wireless remote control 150 ft. range included

Wave Form: Modified Sine Wave Dimensions: 18.25 x 12.25 x 6.50 inches Warranty: One Year

Go Power! 3000-Watt Heavy Duty High Wattage

With 3000W continuous power output, Go Power! heavy duty modified sine wave inverter is a high wattage power inverter that can power all the electronics, appliances and tools you have on your boat. If you have large boat power requirements, this is an excellent option. Build quality is also outstanding making it a reliable and durable inverter for boating. 

Although this is a modified sine wave inverter, it is among the outstanding options on the market and its marine power inverter reviews by users attest to this. 4 AC (120V) charger outlets to go with the 3000-watts output ensure you won’t run out of power or plugging outlets. If you would like to wire it into your electrical system, you can do so with an optional transfer switch.

Features and Operation 

A highly rated feature of the Go Power! is its quality construction. For your safety and that of your belongings, it’s equipped with over and under voltage protection, low-battery alarm and auto shutdown function when the battery is low as well as overload protection.

• Allows you to wire it into your electrical system
• High wattage power inverter for high power needs
• Four AC output outlets for powering multiple devices at once
• Heavy-duty build quality suitable for boating

Wave Form: Modified Sine Wave Continuous Output: 3000W Dimensions: 9.92 x 4.13 x 11.41 inches

Rally Marine Grade 400W USB Charging Port

Rally modified sine wave inverter is a solid basic choice if you just want a reliable and affordable power system for charging essential electronics while boating. It will give you 400W continuous output to charge your smart devices and camera and the corrosion resistant and marine certified build will ensure it will hold up well mounted on a boat.  

This is a modified sine wave inverter with 400W continuous and 800W peak output. While it won’t be good for powering a stove or a freezer, it will do a good job with cell phones, cameras or a music player with loudspeakers. Two AC ports as well as two USB ports give you powering flexibility.

For an inverter so small and affordable, the feature set is impressive. You even get a built-in map light. Different types of protection are included – thermal, overload, low battery shutdown and safe start with maximum output. Finally, you can check how everything is working on the LED indicator.

• Inexpensive basic power inverter for electronics
• Equipped with dual AC ports and two USB ports
• Designed in Miami and backed by a 2-year warranty
• Corrosion resistant and marine certified construction
• Replaceable fuses and handy built-in map light

Wave Form: Modified Sine Continuous Power: 400W Peak Power: 800W Dimensions: 2.88 x 7.56 x 8.56 inches

IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave

If you would like a pure sine inverter on a limited budget, IpowerBingo 1200W pure sine wave is a fantastic option with great build quality, a great set of features and an accessible price tag. 1200 continuous watts of pure sine output means you can charge appliances and electronics with none of the equipment behaving erratically.

Charging outlets include two 110V AC outlets for charging your laptop, game console, fan, TV or even a fridge and a 3.1A USB Charging Ports great for fast charging your smartphone. The peak power rating is 2400 watts and you can see the battery and output voltage on the built-in LED display.

The included high gauge cables help you get up and running faster. Thanks to the aluminum alloy housing and cooling fan, the true pure sine wave inverter runs cool to touch and is also equipped with all the essential safety features from overvoltage to polarity reverse protection. 

• An affordable true pure sine power inverter
• High-quality aluminum inductance and high gauge cables
• Replaceable fuses and four spare fuses provided
• Runs quietly and at >90% peak efficiency rating
• Two AC outlets and a fast charging USB port
• Backed by an 18-months warranty

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1200W Peak Power: 2400W Dimensions: 11.81 x 7.87 x 3.94 inches

Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave

If you want a boat inverter with exceptional safety, Cantonape 1500W 1500-watt pure sine wave inverter fits the bill. In addition to being a pure wave device, it shields your electronics and itself with 6 different types of protection – overload, short circuit, overheating, reverse polarity as well as under and over voltage. A pure sine inverter at its price range, it also offers fantastic value for money. 

Cantonape delivers 1500W continuously while surge capacity is 3000W. This makes it good for larger appliances like a fridge or power tools you may need on the boat. Being a true pure sine wave inverter, it’s a great choice for all the sensitive electronics. You have two AC outlets to work with.

The stated energy efficiency is over 90%. You can see the battery and output voltage on the built-in display and the cooling fan adjusts its speed according to the internal temperature. With a rugged aluminum body, this boat inverter stands up to the harsh marine environment. Cantonape also sends you spare fuses in the package and gives you a 1-year warranty.

• Pure sine wave true power inverter
• Highly efficient with efficiency over 90%
• Powerful for inductive loads and safe for sensitive devices
• 6 types of safety features and replaceable fuses

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1500W Peak Power: 3000W Size: 12.6 x 5.9 x 2.76 inches

ProMariner True Power 2000PS Charger

In addition to being an automatic true sine wave inverter, ProMariner 2000PS true power inverter doubles as a battery charger. The duo function and the durable construction makes it an excellent investment for you boat. Of course, all these features raise the price a little higher that the other options on our marine power inverter reviews but you’re also getting unmatched value for money.  

2000W continuous output is plenty of power to run a boat. And this is pure sine wave you can confidently use to charge even the sensitive audio and visual systems. As a battery charger, it puts out a true 70 amps and is capable of powering a 12V battery. 7 charger profiles to choose from and 3 stages of charging allow you to optimally charge your battery.

A fantastic thing about this top rated boat inverter is the ease of use. The inverter and charger are fully automatic and the included manual is clear and straightforward. As you can expect with a pure sine wave inverter, the ProMariner 2000PS runs efficiently and without an annoying buzz.

• An inverter and battery charger in one device
• Fully automatic with an instant AC transfer switch
• True power inverter yielding pure sine wave
• Battery charger has seven profiles and three stages
• True inverter runs efficiently and quietly

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Output: 2000W Battery Capacity: 70 amps Dimensions: 25 x 12 x 13 inches

How To Choose The Best Marine Power Inverter – Buying Guide

Continuous Wattage

A good power inverter is powerful enough to power all the devices you use on the water. The manufacturer will state the continuous wattage and peak wattage. The continuous wattage rating shows you how many appliances the charger is capable of running at the same time.

You can check the wattage on the devices you’ll be charging and sum the wattage to determine your power requirements. For appliances showing amps, you can covert these into watts by multiplying with volts. For example – 2 amps x 120 volts = 240 watts.

It’s always a good idea to buy a larger charger than your power sum to avoid overloading and also because marine inverters have about 90% efficiency. Of course, the best marine power inverters with higher wattage are going to cost more.

Inverters can have either be modified or pure sine wave forms. Modified sine wave inverters are generally more budget-friendly and a solid power source for most things. On the other hand, pure sine wave inverters have better efficiency power factor – they create more power and give out clean power similar to the one at home. This is why this type of waveform is recommended for more sensitive electronics to work properly.

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Other Features

Some additional features can make the boat charger both easier and safer to use. Some products have power, voltage and battery monitors. You can also get chargers with additional power outlets, and USB ports. Having an efficient cooling fan is also a good idea to prevent the charger from overheating and causing harm.

The inverter should be designed in such a way to control power surges so there is no damage to sensitive electronics like your computer, cell phone or stereo. An inverter that comes with a remote control panel offers greater convenience. Finally, there are inverter-chargers with battery chargers integrated – this means they can power-up the batteries when plugged with shore power or generator.

Batteries and Wiring

Inverters need a steady supply from the batteries to covert direct current to alternating current. They run on a 12V battery, and larger inverters drain a lot of power from your battery bank. So choose a good marine battery or powerful battery bank to run it and handle it according to manufacturer’s instructions to get the best life. You can buy a battery charger and plug to a shore power line or generator.

There are also engine alternators which can recharge the battery while the engine is running. Alternatives are solar panels or wind generators, or you can invest in an inverter with a charging function. When it comes to installation and wiring, you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep in mind that the inverter converts the DC power to 120V AC, which can cause electric shock and serious injury.

Q: What Do Power Inverters Do and How?

Power inverters use the 12V power from the marine battery to translate it to 120V AC which you can use for powering appliances on-board, when you head out to sea. Because it uses batteries to do this, if you don’t have some sort of backup system it’s a good idea to have separate batteries for this.

Q: Why Choose Marine Power Inverters over Auto Power Inverters?

Marine power inverters generally represent a higher quality power source, and a better choice for sensitive electronics. This is especially true for pure sine wave inverters.

On the other hand, auto power inverters are usually modified sine wave type. This is a more cost-effective charger solution, and they don’t have such high requirements as marine power inverters. They are used to power small devices through the car lighter jack.

Q: How Much Power Does an Inverter Need and How Much Does It Produce?

An inverter needs a 12V battery source. Larger inverters will drain the battery quicker, so it’s good to have more than one battery for this, or a charging solution. As for the power it produces, it can range from very small inverters with 100W output to large chargers which give out over 3000 continuous watts.

Q: Where Should the Inverter Be Installed?

General recommendation is to hardwire the inverter as near the battery banks as possible. The distance should be under 10ft, to avoid unnecessary power loss and voltage drops, as well as to reduce the chances of a hazard occurring. The place where you store it should be dry and ventilated (getting a waterproof power inverter for boat is a good idea), and this goes for storing the battery too.

Globo Surf Overview

Boat inverters present a very reliable AC power source to meet your power needs when you’re not docked. Investing in a good power inverter allows you to have a steady AC supply on board. Compared to a generator, inverter chargers don’t require fuel or an exhaust system and they’re more reliable than shore power. It comes down to your particular needs when choosing the best marine power inverter, but if you follow the guidelines we give here you won’t go wrong.

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