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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

Prevent a Clogged Head/Toilet on Your Boat

Published on March 22, 2013 ; last updated on January 20, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

Is preventing a clogged head as simple as changing what you do with toilet paper? Yes.

You’ll be a lot less likely to have clogs if you don’t put toilet paper down the head.  Instead, do as people in many parts of the world with undersized sewer systems do:  use a lidded wastebasket lined with a plastic bag, and burn it or otherwise dispose of it daily. A few drops of eucalyptus oil or other air freshener will cover any smell.  Tell guests with a polite sign in the head (see below).

Yes, this is a photo of the head in our first boat, Que Tal (we now have a composting toilet on Barefoot Gal).  We always put the TP in the trash and so did almost all cruisers in the Sea of Cortez; the joke was that when we’d make a trip to the US or Canada, we’d have a hard time remembering to flush the TP!

I know, a lot of people are going to say “yuck!” and others will say they’ve flushed the TP for years without a clogged head.  Dave’s and my feeling was that inasmuch as Que Tal had only one head, and neither one of us was very wild sweating over an un-flushed toilet in 90+ degree temps, and even less wild on the idea of having to use a bucket during the process, not flushing was the way to go.  If you’re willing to risk having to unclog it — in most cruising locales you can’t just call a plumber and let them deal with it — your choice may be different.  I’ve also heard of boats that allow flushing but impose a 2-square limit . . . I find that idea MUCH more repulsive than putting it in covered container!

Here’s a close up of our sign — we had two copies of it, one above the pump handle and one where they’d see it while sitting on the toilet.  Of course, your flushing instructions will be different but it’s good to post them (ours were particularly strange due to a strange siphon break).  Every head is slightly different and even other cruisers may want instructions on how to use yours.  We had the signs laminated so they’d last longer (as you can see, it’s time to re-do them!).

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Reader Interactions

Debra Perfitt on Facebook says

March 22, 2013 at 6:08 am

Good idea. It’s a worry when you have guests onboard how to explain potty training.

Jan Irons on Facebook says

March 22, 2013 at 6:52 am

Love the sign. We’ve never put TP in the head, but had the TP trauma earlier this week anyway! Solved now though! 🙂

March 22, 2013 at 8:28 am

Here in the Philippines not flushing TP is standard. Initially I was surprised at the lack of odor expecting otherwise. Apparently the TP removes the moisture from the fecal matter on the paper by capillary action relatively quickly and this prevents odors.

The use of TP is a luxury for most in third world countries and they use a ‘tabo’ – a plastic sauce pan as a dipper to rinse with; pouring with one hand while washing with the other. Not having mastered this trick as I am new to this procedure, I have modified the rinse procedure by using a small plastic watering can with the sprinkler removed to provide a more controlled stream of (sea) water – I just fill the can on the way to the head. This eliminates the whole hassle (and expense) of buying and storing TP. One never thinks of this while in first world countries as we have been taught differently our entire lives.

AKMary says

March 22, 2013 at 9:54 pm

Burce – After your rinse, do you drip-dry? Use a towel? Thanks.

Anonymous says

May 10, 2018 at 1:16 pm

I would add that in the “first plus world” (obv Japan) the exact same water technique is used except with a small pressurized hose. There is an Asian saying that may be TMI but here goes. “Wipe with paper—never clean.”

“Toilets in Japan are generally more elaborate than toilets in other developed nations” citation below.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toilets_in_Japan

March 22, 2013 at 9:14 am

My sign says:

“Nothing goes in the head that hasn’t been eaten first.”

“Gentlemen Please be seated.”

On the lids of my toilet paper cans it says:

“Toilet paper here. There are no plumbers at sea.”

Carolyn Shearlock says

March 22, 2013 at 9:43 am

Great signs!

Gail Johnson says

March 22, 2013 at 11:23 am

Why do you put your finger over a hole?

March 22, 2013 at 11:32 am

It’s a weird siphon break that I’ve never seen on another boat.

November 16, 2013 at 6:01 pm

We have to put the finger over the hole in the siphon break too. We put a blob of bluetac over it when we have guests and discreetly check after they gave been to the head.

November 16, 2013 at 7:02 pm

May 10, 2018 at 8:32 am

Does the siphon break create a sinking prevention advantage?

May 10, 2018 at 9:44 am

Jorge Bermudez on Facebook says

March 22, 2013 at 11:37 am

A Lavac head! Love it!

The Boat Galley on Facebook says

March 22, 2013 at 11:43 am

Yep! We hadn’t used one before we bought Que Tal, but loved it. In almost seven years, our only repair was to replace the gasket/seal on the lid once.

March 22, 2013 at 11:45 am

My wife loves it because you don’t have to get close and personal. Just close the lid and goodbye!

March 22, 2013 at 1:20 pm

March 25, 2013 at 7:35 pm

AkMary – it depends, a smart finger flick will get rid of most of the drops and then the boxers get damp but soon dry in the heat; in a swim suit it makes no difference but if more layers the dampness usually doesn’t show and is soon gone. If you were worried about a damp spot showing, you could use a towel – but that raises complications: does everyone use the same towel? separate towels? (more washing) – so far the towel thing hasn’t been an issue. Probably a personal preference thing.

March 27, 2013 at 8:42 am

I find that a can of Coke in the head once a season clears any blockages. To make the pump run smoothly use 1 Tbsp cooking oil in the bowl & flush through.

Christopher Rasch says

November 16, 2013 at 10:17 pm

What do you think of composting toilets like Nature’s Head:

http://www.natureshead.net/marine.html

November 17, 2013 at 6:27 am

I’ve used various brands of composting toilets on friends’ boats (we didn’t have one) and talked to many others about them as well. Everyone who has one seems to like it — the biggest thing seems to be finding the absorbent material (whether it be peat, coconut husks or something else) in some out of the way places. One friend uses sawdust which she says works well and they’ve been able to find everywhere.

If they’re done right, there isn’t any smell and there is nothing to clog. Just have to find a place to dispose of the bag. From what I can gather, a composting toilet is legal in no discharge zones where you otherwise have to show proof of pump outs (but don’t just take my word on this — check where you are and where you plan to cruise — as I did a quick general check, not specific to any particular place).

Sherry Stewart Haught says

November 17, 2013 at 11:45 pm

Where do you burn it?

The Boat Galley says

November 18, 2013 at 1:51 am

We’d burn it with the rest of our burnable trash (or if you’re in an area with good trash disposal ashore, you can put it with the rest of your trash). More on how we burned trash: https://theboatgalley.com/burning-trash/

Verona says

January 26, 2014 at 11:25 pm

A tablespoon of vegetable oil every day or so in in the head, does wonders in keeping the seals lubricated and makes the flushing job a lot easier!

Jorge Bermudez says

October 24, 2014 at 10:10 pm

That looks like a lavac head? I don’t understand the finger over the hole instructions. What is that all about. I have a lavac on Skalliwag-no hole.

October 24, 2014 at 11:27 pm

It’s in the anti-siphon valve, non-standard, and the anti-siphon works so well that it won’t draw water unless you cover it up. Since no one else has ever seen anything else like it, have to give directions or else it won’t flush.

Carlos Nunez says

October 24, 2014 at 10:18 pm

no TP in the head and vinegar twice a year to brake up the calcification from the salt water

David Grimm says

October 24, 2014 at 10:37 pm

When we first started sailing we just got into the habit of not putting TP in the head.

Jane Gammons says

October 24, 2014 at 7:09 pm

Carry a bottle brush for use in cleaning the head. It also helped us one evening with a friend who had some constipation problems and clogged the head. It got pushed thru, Ok, maybe TMI but it happened.

Mary E Dixon says

October 25, 2014 at 12:09 am

Since I put my arm & hand to the bottom of the full holding tank & pulled a clog from the pickup tube everyone is banned from flushing tp. Yuk.

October 25, 2014 at 12:46 am

I just can’t “Like” that. Yuck is right!

Florian Wolf says

April 19, 2017 at 2:11 am

I am currently going along the same route with our ‘posh electric toilet’ that my sweetie so much wanted (grrr,,,), with the only difference that the lovely toilet paper dumped in the bowl subsequently ground the macerator to a hold & subsequently burned out the motor. Now I have to take the whole shit (literally…) apart, fix what I can fix, but most likely will use the whole shebang as a ‘boat anchor’ & replace it with a lovely, mechanical all bronze & porcelain pump toilet w. walnut seat, manufactured by Sands in the US in 1924 & lovingly restored by me. On a 1923 ship THIS is appropriate, not the modern electrical crap manufactured by GMC & others. And as of today no paper will ever again go down the hole, but only into an appropriately labelled bin. scented bin

Burt Tandy says

August 22, 2018 at 3:23 pm

The one thing most dealers of electric toilet and most skippers won’t talk about is how solid solid from a very healthy passenger will sit across the toilet drain or straight as a resisting soldier that no amount of flushing will push down. The other funny and interesting one is the small floating fellow who laughs at you and all your efforts to send him down the drain. In just a few months of use, we’ve had about 8 cases of very embarassing situations, no TP involved in the problem with visitors. Makes you regret the porta potti that you just shake in such a case.

Peter Craig says

October 25, 2014 at 1:32 am

When I bought my yacht, the surveyor/shipwright said the manual toilet was leaking and suggested putting in an electric toilet that I assume macerated the stuff as it flushes it into the holding tank or over the side depending on the settings. As this was my first yacht I just went with his suggestion and had it installed. Do you still have problems with toilet paper with an electric toilet? It also has a macerator to empty the holding tank.

October 25, 2014 at 6:36 am

I’ve never had one so can’t say with any certainty. I know that aboard a friend’s boat, with an electric head, they also follow the no TP in the head rule, but I don’t know if it’s for clog prevention or if they just don’t want it taking up space in the holding tank.

Jeff Janacek says

October 25, 2014 at 6:57 am

I’ve done charters for over ten years and know that the vast majority of my clients would not like this approach. Neither do I, and I’m a farm boy and very familiar to yucky things. We have used Charmin Basic, or some other cheap, one ply tissue for years and never had trouble with the macerator or pump out. We tell folks to use a minimum amount and that if it plugs up they will help us clean it out or go over the side. Peggy Hall’s (Queen of Crap, Head Mistress) test: put a couple sheets in a jar of water and shake it up. If it falls apart, it’s OK.

Debra Adkins says

October 26, 2014 at 5:57 pm

If it didn’t go in your mouth, it doesn’t go in the head!

October 27, 2014 at 8:38 am

I keep a spray bottle next to the toilet and a hanging plastic shopping bag for the toilet paper. Mix about a 10 to 15 % solution of water and vinager and add 3 or 4 oz of dawn to this. Spray toilet after use and paper in bag. No odor, disinfects and lubes toilet.

Cheri Ogden says

October 27, 2014 at 3:07 pm

We have a couple of rules on our cruiser. Even though we don’t cruise great distances, the thought of my husband (yep, I’m not gonna do it) having to work on a smelly, stopped up toilet it not pleasing. Our first rule for people who are on board with us is similar to another posting: “if it doesn’t go in here (pointing to your mouth) it doesn’t go in there (pointing to the head) and secondly our standard rule of thumb is that no toilet paper goes into the head. All TP goes into a plastic garbage bag hanging in the head but we keep sandwich baggies in the head for putting “dirty” TP inside before placing into the plastic garbage bag. I have found this will contain most odors when the garbage is emptied every day or two.

Wally Moran says

January 17, 2015 at 8:50 am

This entire thread is proof that people can get used to anything. I refuse to put TP into a bag for future disposal. The daily aggravation of having to deal with that sort of thing is far greater than an occasional clog – and in 12 years have had one clog, which was due more to calcification in a hose more than anything else. Here’s how you deal – don’t use a ton of paper. Let it get good and wet before pumping it down. Pump ALL the way through to your holding tank (or overboard where applicable). And if worst comes to worst – have an elbow length set of plastic gloves on board… ;>)

January 20, 2015 at 4:40 pm

Wow! Is that REALLY the flush process for a Lavac toilet? What a pita! I have been using a vacuflush for fifteen years as a live aboard. Using normal hose hold tp protocol. Never once a problem–ever.

I had been thinking of switching to a Lavac before leaving for a long term cruise. This article is seriously changing my mind…

January 20, 2015 at 7:32 pm

I think that you mistook my description of flushing a Lavac head — ours was a slightly unusual installation with a non-standard siphon break that required us to put a finger over the hole as we pumped. A normal installation does not have that.

In seven years, we never had a problem with the Lavac head other than once changing the seal on the lid. Never had a clog or had to change the joker valve. Never had a time when it couldn’t be used.

Don’t decide against one based on how we had to flush — look at a standard installation. I’d much prefer it over the Raritan in our current boat!

April 19, 2017 at 2:21 am

Nope – we have an electric TMC too, and it will go flying out of the ship after TP clogged up the macerator AND THE MOTOR BURNED OUT ! We will go 1924 mechanic (fully restored Sands marine toilet, white porcelain, polished bronze and walnut seat & lid) again and have an appropriately selected bucket with fragrance side by side with ‘the throne’. Not to forget about an appropriately elaborate sign on the wall, probably in brass on a mahogany board or whatever timber fits the bill and looks good. My wife is the modern ‘pooper’, I am quite old-school and have sailed on several bucket and pump-toilet equipped ships – works all fine as long as some restraint and discipline is exercised. The golden rule on the classic yawl I crewed on for many years was: whoever screws up the toilet has to fix it – the verdict was enforced by our not always diplomatic ex-German Navy bosun, and I can guarantee you that this all worked very fine and flawlessly. While I am normally not a great fan of too much inflexibility I must consent that when it comes to the potty on board that’s when the fun stops.

Sax Dearing says

April 18, 2017 at 12:46 pm

A number of companies make toilet paper that rapidly disintegrates in water thus preventing clogging. Bybthe time you finish your business the paper is mush. Thetford is one brand. Seems a simpler solution to me.

Peter Bould says

April 18, 2017 at 1:06 pm

We have been using a TMC electric toilet for 30 years. And flushing the TP. Never had even one blockage. When we first installed I fed almost a whole roll of TP in trying to block it. Nada. Nothing. Zero. Go electric.

Beth Joyal says

December 16, 2017 at 12:27 pm

I have one more thought – on our sailboat Lake Effect *** there is a small sign – “When at sea, we all sit to pee”

Carey Moluchi says

December 16, 2017 at 11:11 pm

I like: “We aim to please, so will you aim too please”

BoBo Bailey says

December 16, 2017 at 12:36 pm

Just use your left hand, problem solved. Millions of Indians agree.

Marc J. Kornutik says

December 16, 2017 at 12:46 pm

December 16, 2017 at 12:56 pm

….and, shake with the RIGHT!

December 16, 2017 at 12:49 pm

Only issue we ever had was visiting teenage nieces years ago. We include paper for solids only (separate paper for pee use only, that gets binned) Since then zero issues in nearly 10 years… knock wood !

Scott Ward says

December 16, 2017 at 12:55 pm

It all goes in the toilet! Anything else is barbaric.

December 16, 2017 at 2:32 pm

I would not say barbaric, but that’s perhaps because I do it and many places I’ve lived, it’s also the custom on shore. No, you don’t have to do it but realize that many people do.

Larry Schwartzbach says

December 16, 2017 at 1:14 pm

Boat Galley -Disagree with your logic on toilet paper disposal – First and foremost use the correct product and you can flush worry free. As a marine tech I’ve had countless heads apart and can count on one hand the paper clogs encountered . Nine out of ten times the culprit is female products .

December 16, 2017 at 2:30 pm

I know some people do. Far more of the people I know do not put TP in the toilet; therefore, you won’t see clogs from them.

Mike Turner says

December 16, 2017 at 3:00 pm

My grand daughter visited and in spite of repeated warnings the seven year old clogged it big time! I’m still trying to make the remainder of the clog go away. I may do it before her next visit!

December 16, 2017 at 3:02 pm

Perhaps we should return to the wet sponge on a stick for sanitary consideration.

Wayne Broadhead says

December 16, 2017 at 4:31 pm

Seven years live aboard. Two vacuflush heads. Cheapest Walmart single ply tissue down the heads and no plugs. We flush each head with lots of water during each pump out. We flush when the tank is empty and there is lots of vacuum. It seems to flush out residue that builds up in the system.

Linsay Patterson says

December 16, 2017 at 10:08 pm

Yes, but when does EVERYONE do it the correct way? I brought in a “2 squares rule”, thinking that some people will always go up to double the limit, and had far less issues after that. But some think it’s just like the one at home!

Gena Beckett Olson says

December 16, 2017 at 2:08 pm

Yep, that’s what we do!

Barb France says

December 16, 2017 at 2:12 pm

After having to unclog twice we follow that rule to the tee!

Paul Sunshine says

December 16, 2017 at 2:54 pm

on the boat next door

Joanne Cannon says

December 16, 2017 at 4:42 pm

The resistance I have gotten from visitors on this has been unbelievable!

Mark DeCicco says

December 16, 2017 at 6:34 pm

YUK save dirty T. P. Bet you have 0 guests. I’ve been Live aboard for years, owned boats with heads for 30 plus years. I’ve had 4 memorable experiences with clogged heads…. never been caused by TP. 1 Lady’s product, 2 by baby wipe, 1 a clogged line saltwater flush “ calcium buildup”

Kristy Dunning says

December 16, 2017 at 7:39 pm

With our composting head, we can put the TP right in, but in our electric flush head we use the garbage can for all paper. It isn’t just us using that head, and we frequently have guests with kids on board… They are notorious for using too much TP, lol. Yes – we have had TP clogs before on other boats before using the garbage can.

December 16, 2017 at 10:06 pm

Too much paper can stuff a head as much as a sanitary product. I’ve had to clear heads due to both issues (Sanitary being the worst culprit). One boat I’m no longer having to repair the head on now has a bin for ALL paper.

December 16, 2017 at 11:10 pm

And never keep Q tips where they can accidentally fall in the bowl! They are now banned from the area………………….

Claire Phillips Hickman says

December 17, 2017 at 3:38 am

Marry a plumber. And we’ve never had an issue. LOL but he has fixed other boat toilets.

Jan New Moring says

December 17, 2017 at 4:50 am

Have owned 5 boats and NEVER put paper down the head. We also have a sign in our head saying if it didn’t come out of your body it doesn’t go into the head! Barbaric or not – guests won’t help unblock the head when it happens. If they don’t like it they don;t have to use it.

Enid Bibby says

December 18, 2017 at 5:23 pm

We fitted a bidet douche spray which minimizes TP use. Beware toilet wet wipes- we also have a bin.

Lester Griffith says

December 19, 2017 at 1:06 pm

Just completed a passage and there was a strict no TP rule. Three days in the Skippers head clogged but the crew head was fine. I do not know if he flushed TP or not, he said of course not. I was able to clear the clog using Dawn dish soap. Hero of the day – me!

Paul Shapiro says

May 28, 2018 at 9:01 am

I’m curious about the hole in your u-tube siphon break. My Lavac toilet has a small plastic part with a very small orifice inserted into a 5mm hole at the top of the fill hose. That small orifice allows the pump to work without pulling in significant air, and when you stop pumping there is enough air flow to refill the toilet and release the vacuum in a minute or two. Are you maybe missing that little plastic insert in the hose?

May 28, 2018 at 3:50 pm

The prior owner had installed it and deliberated created a larger siphon break.

Hector MacNeil says

October 2, 2018 at 8:54 am

I’m curious to know how the Dawn dish soap helped clear the clog. Did you just flush it down the head? What is the procedure? Thanks. – Hector

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Marine Toilets: Everything You Need To Know

A marine toilet is has several components and what we consider to be a “toilet” is actually the least important element when it comes to maritime laws. As you’ll see further in this article, maritime law focuses on the storage and treatment of sewage with your Marine Sanitation Device (MSD). For starters, lets look at the element of a toilet that land-lubbers are familiar with, the toilet bowl.

Marine toilets are designed to allow for sanitary conditions while out at sea. It should be evident that a traditional toilet would not work well on a boat. Consider a rough sea and the boat rocking heavily. A traditional toilet would have water spilling from the toilet bowl as the boat rocks. Conversely, marine toilet bowls a kept dry until such time that they are being used, then water is pumped into the bowl.

The toilet pump comes in two basic styles, electric or hand-powered. The basic concept is the same in both cases, they pump water into the bowl or out of the bowl in two different operational modes, “wet” or “dry” pumping.

“Dry” Pumping is the term used to indicate that you are pumping all the water out of the bowl so you do not have water spilling over the edges of the toilet bowl while the boat is swaying or pitching.

Storage is the element of a marine toilet that needs serious attention. This is where the maritime laws come into play. Basically a toilet flushes the waste into a storage tank which makes up the main focus of the balance of this article.

Marine Sanitation Device (MSD):

A Marine Sanitation Device or otherwise known as MSD is defined in the Federal Water Pollution Act as “Any equipment for installation onboard a vessel that is designed to receive, retain, treat or discharge sewage, and any process to treat such sewage.”[ 3 ] This leads to some level of confusion because a fixed mounted toilet on a boat, known as the “head” as well as Coast Guard Certified Type I, II or III MSDs, units that not classified as the head, are also MSDs according to the Federal Water Pollution Act.

One clarification point: The typical head (marine toilet) on its own has ever been made that is Coast Guard certified. The way the Coast guard looks at MSDs is that the head is strictly the component that receives and discharges the sewage. The components that treat the sewage are considered to be Type I and Type II MSDs. This treatment component is separate from the head and these components are the elements that are certified by the Coast Guard.

Upon Further Examination of the MSD: The Federal Water Pollution Act has two key words that need some elaboration, “installation” and “sewage.”

Sewage Clarification: Sewage is defined in CFR 140.3 as, “human body wastes and the waste from toilet and other receptacles intended to receive or retain body waste.”[ 5 ] When is pertains to maritime law, sewage is strictly human bodily waste and does not include items such as galley water, food, oil, etc. However, the Great Lakes do require that “grey water” be held. Grey water is water used in showers, baths and in the galley.

Coast Guard Type I, II and II MSDs: The first point to remember is that the Coast Guard doesn’t care about the toilet. They view MSDs as the device where the toilet flushes into. Basically the Coast Guard is concerned with the holding and treatment of sewage.

Rob Cozen for the Marine-Surveyor.com does a nice job explaining the differences in Type I and Type II MSDs as shown below:

A Type I MSD must macerate (a macerator is essentially a “blender”) to no visible solids—in other words, totally liquefy solids and paper, and reduce the bacteria count to less than 1,000 per 100 milliliters. The discharge from a Type II MSD must contain less than 1,000 parts per 100 milliliters suspended particulate matter—in other words be almost absolutely clear (though not necessarily colorless)—and the bacteria count must be below 200 per 100 milliliters. A Type III MSD is a holding tank—any holding tank, including the holding tank in a portapotty. Vessels up to and including 65′ may use a Type I, II or III; vessels 66′ and over must use a Type II or III. Because a Type II is so much bigger, so much more expensive, and draws so much more power than a Type I, you aren’t likely to see a Type II on a vessel smaller than 66 feet.[ 6 ]

Regardless of the type of marine toilet that you have, it is always a great idea to discuss toilet ettiequte with your guests when hosting people on your boat. Instruct them on the proper way to use the pump and remind them that the only toilet paper that should be used is biodegradeable!

Keep in mind that the fines for overboard discharge of untreated sewage are constantly rising. Additionally, get in the mindset of protecting the environment. Learn where the local pump-out facilities are located. Some other tips for marine toilet maintenance include cleaning. We have found that mixing a solution of one part bleach to 10 parts water kills any bacteria during your cleaning process. One last point, prior to hauling out you boat for the season, flush, clean, and pump dry the holding tank. When the boat is land, completely drain any remaining water in the toilet to prevent freeze-up damage during the winter.

[1] http://www.boattest.com/view-news/3232_a-seacock-is-your-most-important-gear

[2] http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_31/features/Joker-Valves-for-Marine-Heads_11065-1.html

[3] (10 pp, 170 K). https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/USCODE-2013-title33/pdf/USCODE-2013-title33-chap26-subchapIII-sec1322.pdf

[4] http://www.epa.gov/enforcement/marpol-annex-vi

[5] https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/140.3

[6] http://www.marine-surveyor.com/newsletters/9910.html

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Boat Toilet Systems, Soap Dishes and Parts

Keep life aboard clean, comfortable, and convenient with boat head and toilet systems and fittings from Great Lakes Skipper's inventory of new and replacement discount boat parts. We carry boat vacuum flush toilets and vacuum tanks, ceramic boat toilets, gravity toilets, portable camping toilets, toilet system control boxes, and boat waste management systems. Check out our great discount prices on boat toilet systems from Dometic, Galley Maid, Hydra Sport, Jabsco, Springfield Marine, and many more manufacturers.

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Clogged Marine Head

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Just recently purchased a used 35 foot sailboat. When sailing her home, I noticed that I could not get water to pump out of the head. I have no problem pumping water in. And yes, I switched the lever to dry when I tryed pumping it out. I believe that it is clogged as tiny bits of toilet paper have starting floating back into the bowl. The holding tank is completely empty and there is no Y-valve that separates the holding tank from the overboard discharge. The question is: "Can I use draino or a snake on a marine head?" Are there any other suggestions besides having to take the thing apart? Thanks for you help. PS. The plumbing is not PVC pipe but marine grade plubing hose.  

I would not use draino, but I would give the snake a shot or two, before taking it apart.  

Possibly clogged discharge hose-very common to have build-up of hard mineral deposits in hose from combination of saltwater and .... Remove hose and if necessary bang it on dock or better yet replace it.  

Damn, I hate it when that happens. Good luck. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes. Try the snake: gently and no I would not use Draino (Just like Freesail said). Remember, your not dealing with Household Fixtures. Draino will most likely deteriorate and damage the hoses.  

You could try a dose of vinegar as well, and then CLR. But I suspect for peace of mind you might just plug your nose and replace the hose so you have a fresh start date for its use.  

A friend of mine coats the inside of all his pipes with vasoline. He swears it keeps things moving freely ......  

I suggest you be very careful if using a snake - particularly extending the metal snake beyond what you can see. Depending upon the make of your head, there is a high risk of damaging rubber components which make up the valves and gaskets. Try using a manual bilge pump to empty as much liquid from the bowl as possible and begin to disassemble the manual pump - working your way down to the discharge hose and finally, if the source of clogging isn't yet found, to the rubber joker valve at the base of the toilet.  

You might want to gently try a plunger. I would not use much force. Relacing the hose might be your best bet.  

Once you get past the present problem, think PRECAUTION. In over 17 years full-time liveaboard I learned a thing or three about marine heads. After several very nasty clogs of the macerator and other parts, I adopted a very hard policy aboard my vessel: NO TOILET PAPER OR OTHER MATERIAL IN THE TOILET PLACE ALL MATERIALS IN THE SMALL WASTEBASKET NEXT TO THE TOILET Use small plastic bags to line the wastebasket. Guests are told they can use all the toilet paper they want...just ball it up and put it in the wastebasket, not the toilet. I have signs to that effect in my head, and whenever a new guest or crewmember comes aboard I ALWAYS go thru the proper use of the toilet with them, including the policy of no paper or other material in the toilet. It's now been over 15 years since I adopted that policy, and I've had no (zero) problems with head clogs. Bill  

Bill, That's a good policy which we normally use on our boat as well - although only with liquid waste. How do you contend with the wastebasket stench with all that brown smeared TP?  

Thats not going to work on my boat, Sorry, I just can't handle it. Our rule, If it passes through your body in normal fashion its ok. (No pucking in the head) and Marine Toilet Paper Only.  

I'm curious tj, is there a no-discharge law on the Great Lakes and if so, how often do you pump-out? We sail offshore and dump our holding tank at least once a week during season, leaving the 3 mile confines of Narragansett Bay, which has a zero discharge law. This eliminates the hassle for weekly pumpouts - since we do live aboard during the summer months.  

The entire Great Lakes is NDZ. We spend a lot of time aboard but are not liveaboards. Friday to Sunday liveaboards with a couple of weeklong cruises each season. We usually pump out every two to three weeks. Thats usually sufficient. Never have we had any problems. I do use a lot of the Blue Stuff. I also have found that leaving a little water in the bowl helps with odors. When we cruise we are most often docked and try to use the Marina's Facilities. But, more pump outs as required, usually every three to four days if I remember. 1 Wife + 2 Teenage Girls + Extended Periods Board = Frequent trips to Pump out Dock.  

I have to commend you on your courage tj. Sailing with three females as crew - two with raging hormones, is a test for any man's wits.  

For what it is worth, We do NOT use any TP in the head, except the marine grade TP(although the RV stuff at Walmart is the same as I recall). Charmin in a marine head is just asking for a clog. The marine stuff (made by Sea land... or at least sold by them as I recall) works well and disolves quickly. I have never had a problem with it: 1995-2007=12 years. However, that was on different boats too. - CD  

I once saw an RV product that claimed it disolved clogs and was safe for RV toilets, and I think boats too. I don't remember what it's active ingredient was, maybe hydrochloric acid?  

sailortjk1 said: 1 Wife + 2 Teenage Girls + Extended Periods Board = Frequent trips to Pump out Dock. Click to expand...

TrueBlue said: I have to commend you on your courage tj. Sailing with three females as crew - two with raging hormones, is a test for any man's wits. Click to expand...

Valiente said: I'm trying to figure out if you are being figurative or literal. All I know is those things better not be found sideways in my Henderson Mark V. Click to expand...

JimHawkins said: I don't remember what it's active ingredient was, maybe hydrochloric acid? Click to expand...

TrueBlue, "How do you contend with the wastebasket stench with all that brown smeared TP?" Actually, there's very little smell. I spray the wastebasket occasionally with Lysol. Also, if you bunch up the TP before you put it in the basket, it reduces the odor considerably. Finally, whenever I detect an odor, I remove the plastic bag, seal it with a knot, and put it in the larger ship's trash. Then, a short spray of Lysol into the trash, and one into the now empty small wastebasket, and bingo....no odor at all. Fit a new small plastic bag to the small wastebasket, and you're done. Total time: less than one minute, start to finish. Bill  

Three fast pages of a poopy topic . . . just before lunch too.  

Or, a better idea is to go poop on your buddys boat. It really saves you all the frustration. By the way, TJK, there is a sign we have kept on all our boats, it is available through west and others. It reads: DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN THIS HEAD THAT HAS NOT BEEN EATEN FIRST.  

To adhere to that rule, wouldn't TP be prohibited from flushing?  

You guys are really helping me cope with marine head envy. That little $60 walmart porta-pooper is looking better & better. If it acts up, just chuck it in the dumpster & get a new one.  

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• Systems & Propulsion

Vacuum-flush Toilets for Sailboats Reduce Water Use Onboard

Flush testing dometic’s vacuflush, sailvac, and blakes lavac highlights vacuum technology..

In the February and March 2011 issues, Practical Sailor reviewed 14 popular electric-flush marine toilets. All had various types of 12-volt or 24-volt water pumps or macerator pumps to move waste out of the toilet bowl. In our ongoing effort to evaluate on-board sanitation equipment, we had an opportunity to test some toilets that rely on a vacuum (negative air pressure) in the lines for flushing.

Similar to the types of toilets found in airline lavatories, these toilets are touted for their ability to flush with very little water. In order to reduce water use, some newer homes are employing pressure-assisted toilets that operate on a similar principle.

Most makers also claim the design helps eliminate odors and keeps the system cleaner and bacteria-free since they use onboard fresh water, instead of raw sea water, for flushing. Most vacuum systems use only about 2 pints of water per flush, so they conserve the fresh water supply and increase holding-tank capacity.

What We Tested

PS worked with two electric vacuum-flush units from Dometic Corp. and a manual unit from Blakes Lavac Taylors. The Dometic Group also markets products under the Sealand brand name.

Dometic offers a wide range of marine sanitation systems and toilets in addition to the six different series of its VacuFlush line of vacuum toilets. Its 5000 series of compact VacuFlush toilets is geared for medium-size sailboats. The No. 5006 is the shortest in the series. We tested the taller No. 5048 and No. 5148.

For sailors looking to replace older, compact manual heads, the 140 series will likely be a better fit, and for owners of larger yachts who want a residential-style toilet, the premium-grade 4000-series models are worth a look.

The Blakes Lavac toilet is a manual toilet system that is made in the United Kingdom. It is significantly different from the VacuFlush toilets in that the powerful suction is generated only during flushing, whereas VacuFlush lines are airtight and kept at a constant negative pressure.

The Lavac was first introduced in 1963 and has served on many small sailboats around the world. It is imported into the U.S. by St. Brendan’s Isle Co. in Green Cove Springs, Fla. As we reported in our last comprehensive test of manual toilets in September 2000, it is small, relatively inexpensive, easy to use, and easy to maintain.

How We Tested

As in our previous toilet evaluations this year, this was a controlled bench test. We compared size, weight, price, style, features, and functions. We reviewed installation instructions and documentation, parts inventory, construction and ruggedness of materials, ease of installation, installation options, added features, and customer service.

To test the electric toilets, we hooked up the Dometic vacuum pumps to a fully charged, 12-volt battery and installed the proper hoses for water intake and waste discharge. The installers evaluated the ease of electrical and plumbing hookup, commented on possible ease of maintenance, and compared functions. Testers also measured amp draw, sound level, and ease of use. For filling, flushing, and rinsing the Dometic units, which call for a pressurized water supply, testers hooked up a standard three-quarter-inch garden hose at low pressure to draw water into the bowls. The Blakes Lavac toilet is manually operated, so it didn’t need 12-volt power, nor did it need a pressurized water intake.

To compare flushing, we mixed equal batches of “faux poo,” consisting of a rotten banana and 4 feet of West Marine Pure Oceans single-ply, quick-dissolve tissue paper, and evaluated the speed and efficiency of the waste discharge.

It is worth noting that Dometic included a bright yellow “Technical Alert” sheet that specifically called for quick-dissolve toilet tissue used in these systems. One brand in particular, Charmin Ultra-Soft toilet tissue—was cited as a known cause of clogged vacuum generators and tanks. The company recommended Sealand Ultra Two-ply TP, although we found others that dissolved just as well or better in our recent toilet paper test (See PS, June 2011).

Dometic (Sealand) No. 5048

This is a standard, mid-size toilet with a semi-oval ceramic bowl sitting on an 8½-inch diameter plastic base. The base has a white plastic cowling that wraps around, snaps in place, and is held by one screw. The cover is purely cosmetic, adding smooth curves to the toilet’s base. It has a heavy-duty wood lid and cover. For our first test, the waste outlet of the 5048 was led to the J-series VG4 vacuum generator (described below).

On the side of the toilet is a control handle and valve that you control with your foot. (Dometic’s electric units have a bulkhead-mounted push-button as an option.) Various sensors and panels to check for vacuum leaks or monitor holding-tank level are optional.

Lifting up the foot pedal allows water to enter the bowl. Pushing down opens the water inlet valve as well as a 3-inch diameter plastic ball valve at the bottom of the bowl. This opens up the suction line, allowing the vacuum generator to suck out water and waste from the bowl and pump it into the holding tank. The water and waste are pulled through a small 1-inch opening under the ball valve. This passage is deliberately sized smaller than the other plumbing to make it easy to clear any foreign material that might clog the system. The vacuum in the line automatically re-charges after each flush. In our installation, with 6 feet of hose between the vacuum generator and the toilet, this took 30-40 seconds.

The operation of the ball valve at the bottom of the bowl depends on the tight fit of two, round, 7-inch rubber gaskets. These seals are Teflon coated and should last for years, but may need to be checked and cleaned periodically in order to keep an airtight seal. Cleaning is a simple matter of reaching down from the bowl with a sponge or brush, just as you would clean a home toilet. The use of clean fresh water will minimize the build-up of salts, minerals, and foreign material that might inhibit this seal.

Dometic offers several options for generating vacuum pressure in the lines, ranging from the compact S-type vacuum generator to the bronze-body M Series for multiple toilets. Our test toilet came with the new J-series VG4 vacuum generator and tank, which Dometic says employs its new “whisper quiet” technology. This is a white plastic box about the size of a toolbox—6 inches high, 7 inches wide, and 19 inches long—with flanges for securing to a floor or bulkhead and 1½-inch hose fittings for waste input and output.

On the top of the vacuum generator is a 12-volt, 6-amp motor to operate the vacuum pump. The motor is activated by a pressure-sensitive internal vacuum switch and is protected by an internal thermal cutoff switch. Early versions of the vacuum switch, which should not be adjusted by the user, had some problems, but according to Dometic, there have been very few switch problems since 2008.

To wire the generator, you simply connect the positive and negative leads to 12-volt power, with a 10-amp fuse or breaker to protect the circuit against over-current.

This J Series 6-amp motor is a good size for its dual function of sucking in waste from the toilet and pushing it out to a holding tank. Specifications call for locating the vacuum generator within 50 feet horizontally and 6 feet vertically from the toilet. The pump is supposed to push the waste up to 6 feet vertically overboard or to a holding tank. During our test, the pump managed to pulse waste out of the vacuum generator at the 6-foot level but did not clear the hose completely. Installers should aim for short hose runs with the least amount of lift (the vertical distance a pump has move waste), particularly after the vacuum generator. The hose between the vacuum generator and the toilet typically retains little water because it is under vacuum.

Four bi-cuspid “duckbill” valves prevent any effluent from getting back into the toilet. When testers ran the vacuum generator outlet hose horizontally, all the water and waste was pumped out. The operation is fairly quiet except for one initial, quick “pop” in the bowl. The pump motor noise is a tolerable hum that lasts less than a minute (30 to 40 seconds in our installation) as the vacuum recharges.

During testing, we experienced one clog, as one of our test bananas blocked the inlet valve at the base of the toilet. (According to Dometic, our test bananas are denser than human waste.) We were able to dislodge it without too much trouble by reaching into the bowl with a plastic knife. To help clear clogs, four screws at the top of the vacuum generator allow you to easily remove the pump for access to the chamber below. The entire lid may also be removed for more thorough cleaning.

Bottom line: This unit generated the fastest, most powerful vacuum flush of the three toilets we tested, and the motor was surprisingly quiet­—except for the pop, which was loud enough to wake sleeping bunkmates. The J-series vacuum generator permits a wide range of installation options. Since the generator becomes, in essence, a temporary holding tank for waste and paper, owners need to be vigilant about what goes in.

Dometic / Sealand 5148

The bowl, seat, and cover of the No. 5148 we tested were identical to the No. 5048, but the base was smaller and about 1½ inches shorter. The white plastic base is all one piece without the extra cover. Unfortunately, the plastic threads on the half-inch inlet fitting on our test toilet were misaligned or damaged, and we had to find a replacement. The 5148 has a “pedal-lock” feature that holds the foot pedal down and flush ball open during a holding-tank pump-out.

The 5148 came with a SailVac VHT 5200, an integral vacuum generator and holding tank (14 gallons). This system could be used with any of the company’s VacuFlush toilets, and is one of several integral vacuum pump/holding tank options that Sealand offers in sizes ranging from 6 to 14 gallons. The SailVac holding tank is specifically shaped to install vertically in the outboard bulkhead space in a head. It is exactly the same size as Sealand tanks already found on some production boats.

Sealand claims the VHT 5200 provides enough holding tank capacity for two people for four days, and we found this to be an accurate—if not conservative—statement. It comes pre-wired with a 12-volt, 3-amp motor, a vacuum pump, internal vacuum switch, and a tank sensor indicating when the tank is three-quarters full and full. There are also relays for an alarm and auto shutdown.

The tank is made of a green, heavy-duty polyethylene composite material and is 36 inches high, 20 inches wide, 11 inches deep at the top and 5 inches deep at the bottom. The 1½-inch diameter hose connections fit snuggly into three round, flexible, rubberized donut rings, which, in turn, squeeze snugly into the tank.

The threadless design allows the fittings to turn a complete 360 degrees to point in any direction, but the hose fittings and donut must fit smoothly and tightly in order for the tank to maintain the vacuum. One fitting is for the waste inlet from the toilet, and the other is an outlet to another holding tank, offshore pump-out, or dockside pump out.

The top of the tank has a 5/8-inch discharge fitting exiting the air pump to evacuate the foul odors while the air pump creates a vacuum. There is no vent in this system. The vacuum pump is quiet, but it takes longer for the system to reach a full vacuum. When powered up, the tank can take up to three minutes to reach a full vacuum after each use. This time becomes shorter as the tank fills.

The VHT 5200 tank may be up to 13 feet horizontally and 5 feet vertically from the VacuFlush toilet. The weight of a full tank is on the bottom of the tank, secured to the bulkhead with straps. The tank came pre-wired with a Sealand Tankwatch level indicator, a small 2-inch by 2½-inch flush-mount panel with a yellow LED for three-quarters full and a red LED for full. Several other tank-level indicators are available, and some of the ones PS last tested (see July 2009) are also compatible.

Both of these Dometic vacuum toilets recommend a half-inch freshwater line with a water pump flow rate of at least two gallons per minute. Any of the freshwater marine pumps, we recently tested (see April 2011) would provide more than enough water flow for this function.

Bottom line: The SailVac will appeal to owners of production boats that are already fitted with vertically oriented holding tanks of roughly the same dimensions. The SailVac took more time than the J-Series pump to restore vacuum pressure, but its integrated vacuum generator/holding tank design simplified installation. Owners of small boats may want to look at similar, smaller integral tank/pump options offered by Sealand.

Blakes Lavac Popular Model

Using the same type of manual diaphragm pump commonly used to dry up bilges, the Blakes Lavac does not require electricity or pressurized water. An electric version, however, is an option.

The small white vitreous porcelain bowl is a mere 12 inches high and would typically be mounted on a small riser for added comfort. The base can be easily disassembled and turned to allow the discharge hose to be directed left, right, or back.

The white plastic seat and cover each have special round gaskets. The toilet seat must be closed, and these seals must seal properly when pumping to create the vacuum for flushing and to allow the pump to pull clean water in.

The separate white plastic diaphragm manual pump is 5¼ inches high and 7 inches wide with four flanges for securing to the bulkhead. It comes with a 12-inch stainless-steel removable pump handle that travels about 6 inches with each pump stroke. The top or front of the pump has a wide opening with a screw-on lid to access the rubberized bellows of the pump for cleaning.

For toilet installation, the pump should be installed and secured to a firm bulkhead above the level of the pedestal base at a minimum. This allows some clean water to remain in the bowl after each flush and allows water to drain out of the pump bellows. If installed level with or below the pedestal base, water in the bowl would instead drain out through the pump or collect in the pump instead.

To prevent back-siphoning, the installer must loop the ¾-inch inlet hose above the waterline at maximum heel. In addition, the installer must drill a small hole at the top of the loop and install one of two airbleed plugs that are included with the toilet. These air-bleed plugs release the vacuum after each flush and determine how much water is left in the bowl after each flush.

In addition to preventing back siphoning, this bleed hole relieves the pressure in the line so that the lid may be opened again after flushing. It also determines how much water will be drawn into the bowl for refilling after pumping has stopped. Normal operation leaves about a pint of water in the bowl, depending on the length of the intake hose and which air bleed plug is used. The bleed holes are tiny, so it’s important to keep these clear of any debris.

To flush the toilet, you must close the seat and lid and give eight to 10 steady full strokes of the pump handle; pause for 5 seconds and repeat. More strokes may be necessary, depending on the length of the hose runs. Once a few installation issues were resolved (described below), our test toilet performed very well. It evacuated our bananas and toilet paper with an average of 16 to 18 strokes and about 4 to 5 pints of water. Lavac’s tests show 3 to 4 pints.

Diaphragm pumps of this type are famously resistant to clogs. The valves and diaphragm last two to three years, but are cheap and easy to replace.

Like a few of the toilets in our other test, the Lavac makes the seemingly simple task of fastening a toilet seat to a toilet amazingly complicated. Six different pieces had to come together correctly before tightening the wing nuts to hold the lid down. Two of those pieces, a gasket and a wing nut, gave testers trouble and had to be replaced.

Since the vacuum principle of this toilet depends on the seat and cover sealing properly to the bowl, the hardware joining these pieces is critical. In any case, new gaskets and metal (metric) wing nuts from a local hardware store easily solved the problem.

During our first tries to fill the bowl, the seal around the seat and cover did not seem to hold a vacuum for more than 10 to 15 seconds. Testers could hear air sucking in after pumping. We replaced the seat and cover gaskets with new ones, and that immediately solved the problem. We recommend keeping a spare set if you plan to venture farther afield.

In our conversations with Lavac after testing, we learned that this gasket and hinge assembly has been improved, ensuring a tight seal out of the box.

Bottom line: This Lavac system is highly regarded by many cruising sailors for its simplicity and the robust construction. The diaphragm pump is difficult to clog, and if it does, it is fairly easy to clear. Flushing is efficient, requiring about 2 to 4 pints of water per flush.

Switching to a vacuum system requires some changes in habit. With the VacuFlush system, it is important to turn off the power to the system at a proper switch or breaker whenever leaving the boat for long periods. If any of the seals in the toilet or hoses should begin to leak, the vacuum pressure would drop and the vacuum generator would turn on automatically, gradually running down the ship’s house batteries.

Users also will have to be more vigilant about what goes into the toilet. Reduced water usage means that the bowl is not rinsed as well. Some VacuFlush owners provide a separate small garbage bin for users to deposit toilet paper in.

Holding the vacuum pressure is critical. Any leak around any hose fitting would compromise the performance of the system. The installation guides suggest having a digital vacuum gauge (available from Sealand) to assure vacuum level integrity, and this would be a good addition on any boat planning a cruise of a year or more.

Although the vacuum-pressure reduces water usage, some of the best electric-flush toilets in our tests earlier this year (see March 2011) were also quite miserly with water, and more forgiving with solids. If you host many guests who are unschooled in the ways of the marine toilet, you should also look at other models from Dometic and other manufacturers that had vortex-type water pumps to break up and wash out solid waste. If you like the VacuFlush concept, consider having a pro install it, and explain how to operate, maintain, and troubleshoot the system.

The Blakes Lavac is best compared to compact manual toilets like the Raritan PHII or the Jabsco Compact (see January 2008). It is aimed at the basic, “keep it simple” sailor. It is relatively inexpensive, small, lightweight, easy to install, use, and maintain. It has very few moving parts and is definitely our Budget Buy choice in this comparison.

We recommend the VacuFlush system for the sailor who wants to be extra-stingy with water and wants the conveniences of a vacuum-type system. For new-boat buyers and builders, the more simple SailVac system or a similar unit with a matching holding tank and vacuum generator would be our choice. The VacuFlush with a separate vacuum generator is better suited for integrating into an existing holding tank system.

• Dometic / Sealand

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Toilet Paper

• Thread starter Craig2up
• Start date Aug 2, 2011
• Forums for All Owners
• Marine Plumbing and Sanitation

Hi Peggy What's the deal with toilet paper? We have an electric macerating Jabsco toilet and using fresh water to flush. Everytime we've chartered a boat the charter people have threatened us within an inch of our life not to flush paper. Now that we live aboard it would sure be nice to be able to. Also, there is a difference between RV/Boat TP and home TP, if we do flush paper does it really matter? Connected in Connecticut...for the moment.  

Peggie Hall HeadMistress

Yes, there's a difference...and yes it matters...however.. Charter companies have to be a lot more strict about what can and can't go into a marine toilet 'cuz people just don't get it that a toilet CAN swallow 6-8 sheets of quick-dissolve TP, but CAN'T swallow wet wipes, tampons, condoms, paper towels or half a roll of ANY TP at one time. Since they're the ones who have to clean out the clogs, they draw the line at ANYthing except what's been eaten (and even that isn't 100% bulletproof). And there's another reason too: in the islands, toilets flush directly overboard...and even when only the "right" TP is used, white "snow flurries" out the thru-hulls of boats in an anchorage isn't the most aesthetically appealing sight. There is definitely a difference between premium brand TP and marine/rv TP...premium TPs have extra fiibers for strength and creams for softness...they can clog a macerator and they can sit in water for a month without ever dissolving...which can clog up a hose and/or the discharge in a tank. However..."marine/rv" TP is just flimsy made-from-recycled, practically-dissolves-in-your-hand-if-it-even-gets-damp you can find at Sams, and Costco and also in supermarkets for a fraction of the price. To find out whether a particular brand/type of TP is suitable for use in a marine toilet, tear off a sheet...put it in a glass of water and leave it for at least a couple of hours. Stir it when you return. If the water is milky and all you see is "snow, " it's the same thing as "marine/rv." But if it's still an intact, or mostly intact sheet when you come back, keep looking...it'll clog your system. It's guests who are responsible for 99% clogged toilets (which helps to explain the charter cos' attitude)...almost always WOMEN guests. Women who haven't learned to be boat savvy seem to be genetically programmed to use half a roll/flush...and a big enough wad of even the "right" TP can clog a toilet. But the GOOD news is...if it IS the "right" practically-dissolves-in-your-hand-if-it-even-gets-damp TP, the clog will dissolve on its own in an hour or two. So just wait...and tell your crew they'll just have to hold it or go swimming if they can't! :naughty:  

Does zero discharge from Boat applies to boats only? What about human direct discharge? Sorry to be funny ;-)  

Only applies to discharge from boats... But only if you put it into any device" intended to receive or retain" body wastes. "Direct deposit" from you at the rail is legal...though it's best to do that only after dark or where you have complete privacy...'cuz while you won't run afoul of any marine sanitation laws, there are those pesky indecent exposure laws to worry about. It's a valid question...so no need to apologize for it. And btw, "no discharge" ONLY applies to human body wastes...it does not apply to gray water (galley, bath and shower water)...it can go directly overboard in all waters except for a few inland lakes.  

RV TP it is Thanks Peggy, good info. We have found that RV/Marine TP is "MORE" expensive, not less, so maybe we're buying it at the wrong places. We haven't found it at Costco, but the one back home is not near a big boating community like here in CT. Walmart had it in their Auto/RV section, but again, way more expensive than Charmin. We've opted so far for the zip loc bag behind the door routine. I'm so used to it now I think I'll stick with the soft, strong stuff. The Admiral has opted for a portable bidet and absolutely loves it. Maybe we'll only offer our guests RV paper just to be on the safe side. I hear that tearing the system apart to unclog a paper jam is not a pleasant task.  

Peggie Hall-HeadMistress said: But only if you put it into any device" intended to receive or retain" body wastes. "Direct deposit" from you at the rail is legal...though it's best to do that only after dark or where you have complete privacy...'cuz while you won't run afoul of any marine sanitation laws, there are those pesky indecent exposure laws to worry about. It's a valid question...so no need to apologize for it. And btw, "no discharge" ONLY applies to human body wastes...it does not apply to gray water (galley, bath and shower water)...it can go directly overboard in all waters except for a few inland lakes. Click to expand

Just get the cheapest single ply from No Frill super market will do. Yes, it disintegrates fast. The Raritan head has a bigger diameter pump which can push a lot more than the cheap Jabsco. I know what I am going to get when my Jabsco quits. I saw a boat named "Other Women" last week. I love the name. You never go cheap on the Other Women ;-)  

Urban legend... Please cite your source for your statement that "that more men have been lost overboard while whizzing on Neptune than any other single cause, especially at night"...because I've never heard of a single documented case of an "open fly" drowning victim from a sailboat. Any male drowning victims who HAVE been recovered with their flies open have fallen out of bass boats or similar open boats on an inland lake or river while fishing alone, usually in the dark (that's the only part of your statement that IS accurate). They don't wear PFDs...more often than not, beer consumption is a factor. They stand up to pee...the boat rocks a little...and in they go.  

That's why they call them MOB (Man Over Board). Women are smarter.  

This forum has a tradition of respectful disagreement, stating facts, relating experiences, and offering points of view without denigrating other's ways.  

Stu Jackson

Good one(s)! My wife has learned to use the basic TP and knows how to properly use the head. She tried the ziplock and got YUCKED out years ago. No clogs since. If she can train me...  

Charmin, $.50/roll: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ultra-Soft-Rolls-Bathroom-Tissue/14284559 Thetford, $1.50/roll http://www.amazon.com/Thetford-2080...Z74O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312384523&sr=8-1 These are just examples. This is so cheap, compared to almost anything we do, as to be totally meaningless, a no-brainer. But NO one is recommending using either one of those! Charmin will clog the toilet and Thetford costs at least 3x as much as institutional grade TP from grocery stores and/or warehouse stores...which CAN be flushed. Who would contemplate keeping poop tissue in a Zip-loc, hanging on the back of your head door, and having to deal putting the poop tissue into it, and with disposing of it, I'm on your side there. But you'd be amazed at how many people, mostly sailors, who have a hard and fast rule of "NOTHING goes into the toilet that hasn't passed through you."  

PS just did an article on toilet paper. Scott's Rapid Dissolving TP was the Best Choice. " Scott’s Rapid Dissolving tissue (made by Kimberly Clark) made for RVs and boats was the fastest-dissolving product in our test. It wasn’t a very strong paper, but it got the job done. Sheets were relatively thick, and in terms of dollars per ounce, it was a pretty good value. " They bought a 4-roll pack for $3 or $0.75 a roll. Thetford's single ply rolls were second place. With a travel trailer and a sailboat, we're buying the Scott's as you can get it at places other than worst marine.  

When we charter in the BVI, the boats all say "no toilet paper in the toilet, deposit it in a bag." When we go ashore, most of the shoreside toilets say "no toilet paper in the toilet, deposit it in the provided container." So we get pretty used to dropping the paper in the bag/container. So when we're back on board our own boat, we've gotten used to having a small open top trash can in the head. The small office size. We keep an ample supple of those flimsy plastic grocery bags onboard that we get when shopping. One goes in the open top trash can as a liner. When you wipe (men or women) the paper goes in the bag. Nice large opening to hit, no muss no fuss. Daily, or when the bag gets full, or just whenever we think it needs it, we lift the grocery sack out of the trash can by its nice clean loops that were on the outside of the trash can, tie them together, and deposit it in the galley trash, placing a clean grocery sack in the head trash can. It's really easy, no mess, and best of all, it takes a LOT less water to flush the bowl when we're not trying to push a bunch of toilet paper though it, so longer time between pumpouts.  

WayneH said: PS just did an article on toilet paper. Scott's Rapid Dissolving TP was the Best Choice. Click to expand

Peggie Hall-HeadMistress said: Please cite your source for your statement that "that more men have been lost overboard while whizzing on Neptune than any other single cause, especially at night"...because I've never heard of a single documented case of an "open fly" drowning victim from a sailboat. Any male drowning victims who HAVE been recovered with their flies open have fallen out of bass boats or similar open boats on an inland lake or river while fishing alone, usually in the dark (that's the only part of your statement that IS accurate). They don't wear PFDs...more often than not, beer consumption is a factor. They stand up to pee...the boat rocks a little...and in they go. Click to expand

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