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Electric Re-power- Thread starter WestIslandJohnny
- Start date Sep 8, 2014
- Oday Owner Forums
- Ask An Oday Owner
WestIslandJohnnyWondering if anyone out there has done an engine re-power from OMC Saildrive to electric (Electric Yacht, specifically) on a similar O'Day to my 27. I've weighed the options and I think my situation is a great candidate for an electric re-power. I don't really want to spend any more time trying to get the old saildrive running (two attempts thus far pulling the motor completely out), and I'm not a huge fan of diesel fumes. I will mostly be sailing Buzzards Bay, Vineyard Sound and maybe Narragansett Bay occaisionally. Bottom line is that battery capacity and solar charging technology have made it seem more of a viable option now. Anybody having experience with electrics, conversion to electric, or just general comments on the technology would be welcome. I'm really just trying to see if there are any major "gotchas" involved with the conversion process. Thanks in advance! WestIslandJohnny said: Wondering if anyone out there has done an engine re-power from OMC Saildrive to electric (Electric Yacht, specifically) on a similar O'Day to my 27. I've weighed the options and I think my situation is a great candidate for an electric re-power. I don't really want to spend any more time trying to get the old saildrive running (two attempts thus far pulling the motor completely out), and I'm not a huge fan of diesel fumes. I will mostly be sailing Buzzards Bay, Vineyard Sound and maybe Narragansett Bay occaisionally. Bottom line is that battery capacity and solar charging technology have made it seem more of a viable option now. Anybody having experience with electrics, conversion to electric, or just general comments on the technology would be welcome. I'm really just trying to see if there are any major "gotchas" involved with the conversion process. Thanks in advance! Click to expand 25yearslaterHey Johnny. There is quite the debate about this going on at the ask all sailors forum. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=165653 I looked at it as an option but decided to keep the A4 a while longer. I believe Volvo Penta makes a saildrive unit that your boat might be a good candidate for. The tides and currents in your area might be asking a bit much from an electric. A nice 15hp Mars brushed motor would work nicely. I bought one for my conversion, then ended up with a nearly outboard, so I never finished it. Let me know if you are interested. Physically, the conversion can be made. If you use your motor as a true auxiliary to maneuver in/out of mooring fields, occasional extra power for emergencies, then it can work for you. People who feel they need to motor for long periods of time will not be happy since battery charge is limited. The battery energy can go out quickly like a firehose, but it refills slowly like through a straw. I have been using a Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 on my Capri-22 for the past four seasons. The last three seasons have been on a mooring with no shore power. The batteries were recharged with solar panels originally off the stern, but now mounted on the foredeck (flexible, walk on-able panels). Since I am a day sailor who goes out once or twice a week, the batteries always fully recharge even when I draw them down past the 50% level. The debate on http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.co...d.php?t=165653 does bring out many of the limitations. The nay-sayers are voicing their opinion strongly. Mostly, you have to determine how you want to use the motor. The less you use it, the more sense it makes to do the conversion with today's technology. If you need to motor longer distances, then it makes more sense to stick with a gas or diesel engine. I have been very happy with my setup. It meets my needs and desires to use only wind and solar power for my recreational sailing. - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…
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Sailboat conversion from 14 hp Diesel to 10 Kw 48V electric motor- Thread starter Thread starter keimor85
- Start date Start date Feb 16, 2021
- Feb 16, 2021
Hi All, I'm new to the forum. Have been reading many of the threads on here to educate myself and looking for any guidance. So here is my story. I'm converting my 1979 Cape Dory 30 sailboat from a 14 hp diesel to a 10Kw 48V electric motor (the motor is ordered). I was planning on just using 8 105 Ah 12V batteries in a 4S2P configuration to yield 48V and 210 Ah but @ 60% this would only give me 126 usable Ah with a cost of around $2600. Buying LiFe 105 Ah 12V or 24V would cost may thousands more so that is out of the equation. So now I'm looking at building my own battery with the 3.2V LiFe cells. I'm specifically looking at the Xuba 280Ah cells but the article that was attached to one of the threads say that going with cells over 200Ah for a marine application is not a good idea. I also saw some 200 Ah cell for a very good price as well but they are from Jidian Technology so looking for any feed back on them as well. I have many more question but this is a good start. Looking forward to your replies. Im also thinking of doing conversion of my small 7m semidisplacement powerboat it was diesel 80hp and I'm also thinking about 10 kW electric and go with displacement speeds .and probably go with 16s3p 280ah cells .which electric motor you order ? gearboxlabsSo thoughts... Having a 10kw motor means you're looking at a ~208 amp draw at 48 volts (10kw/48v = 208a). With that, you'd draw down a 200Ah 48V battery in about 45 minutes of operation, or about 65 minutes for the 280Ah pack. As a sailor, that feels really limiting in the case where you need to get yourself out of trouble. What is your planned use for your boat with this electrical system? I went with the QuietTotque 10 Sport "Having a 10kw motor means you're looking at a ~208 amp draw at 48 volts (10kw/48v = 208a). With that, you'd draw down a 200Ah 48V battery in about 45 minutes of operation, or about 65 minutes for the 280Ah pack. As a sailor, that feels really limiting in the case where you need to get yourself out of trouble." I always try to stay out of trouble. Good planning and diligently watching conditions pays off. Having a boat that can sail around the world also helps. I even sail my 30 ft 10,000 lb boat for 8 week with no motor one year. Yes, you are correct but no sailor ever runs their diesel at max RPMs as no Tesla owner ever runs in ludecrist mode for very long besacue the battery will die in minutes or possibly the driver. As an example my diesel redlined at 2750 but the rule of thumb is run a diesel at ~75% or 2050 with would push my boat at 4.5-5 kms depending on current and relative wind direction. So to push my boat to hull speed (6.5 kms) it would use about 180Ah but if you look at the speed to power consumption curve I will only use about 60 A at 4.5-5 kts. Drop the speed to 3 kts and it only draws 20 A Which means I could run about 10 hours or 30 km. Throw in the solar again and it just increases the hours and distance. What is your planned use for your boat with this electrical system? The bottom line is I'm a sailor and the mechanical propulsion is an auxiliary. Last season I logged about 3,000Km less then 30 of those Km were motoring. On an average day I will run the electric motor 10-15 minutes at 5 kms which will use 15-20 Ah. My solar system with array 1 will provide about 32 Ah per day on average if I add the array 2 the average daily Ah will increase to 52. Also my electronic, stereo, etc... will consume about 10-15 Ah per day. So I will see if array 1 will be sufficient or if I need to add array 2. I will update in the spring. MisterSandalsParticipation medalist. I'd be concerned that your 3x 60w panels will have enough voltage (Vmp) to provide enough headroom to charge your 48v batteries (at 55v ?). I guess the question is, is your 63v based on Voc or Vmp? Some math (use scratch pad for me): 180w / 55v = 3.27a 19ah / 3.27a = 5.8h per day of solar Does that correspond to this?: How many "solar hours" of sun do I get per day throughout the entire day at a city near me? 280w / 55v = 5.1a 32ah / 5.1a = 6.27h per day of solar (is this array in a sunnier location?) 280ah / (19 + 32) = 5.49 days to fully charge your batteries operating at 100% efficiency. I believe that the solar panel manufacturer used 5.5 hr per day to come up with the average Ah per day per panel. Yes, I agree on the three panel array (array 2) only being a at 63V is problematic. The solar panel manufacturer is looking to see if they can up the voltage on each panel. If they are unsuccessful then I will try to add a forth panel to bring the voltage up to 84V. Per my statements above I will never fully discharge the batteries. As stated on average I will consume 20-30 Ah so it will charge in a day or less. Lots of good comments but no one has chimed in on my two original questions: 1. Does any one have any input on not exceeding 200Ah cells in a marine application? 2. Does anyone have any knowledge on reputation of Jidian Technology? I'll add a third question as well: 3. Can anyone recommend a good BMS 48V for marine applications? for my 48v build i am going to be going with these for bms but also getting chunky 280ah batteries https://www.amazon.com/DALY-LiFePO4-Protection-Balance-Temperature/dp/B08LD4VY57 keimor85 said: I'm converting my 1979 Cape Dory 30 sailboat from a 14 hp diesel to a 10Kw 48V electric motor (the motor is ordered) ... the article that was attached to one of the threads say that going with cells over 200Ah for a marine application is not a good idea. Click to expand... keimor85 said: I will update in the spring. Click to expand... gearboxlabs said: you'd draw down a 200Ah 48V battery in about 45 minutes of operation, or about 65 minutes for the 280Ah pack. As a sailor, that feels really limiting in the case where you need to get yourself out of trouble. Click to expand... gearboxlabs said: I'm personally not ready to give up the diesel inboard, but I am planning on doing my own FLA -> LiFePO4 conversion this year in my Cal 36. Click to expand... but for range extension I plan a 5kw diesel generator Click to expand... I'm personally not ready to give up the diesel inboard Click to expand... Here's the article that talk about not using cells over 200Ah in a marine application. Lithium battery systems | Nordkyn Design Caution it is a lot of information but very informative. keimor85 said: I have been there for several years. My diesel was sill running very well with the exception that I was starting to get raw water into the oil last summer. I eliminated all of the simple root causes and finally determined that the water jacket must have finally started to rust through. So I changed the oil every month until I hauled out in early Nov and made the decision to go electric. I'm starting to strip the boat of all diesel gear. Click to expand... keimor85 said: I know of three people that added the diesel or gas generators, two of them have never used it and the other used it once. Click to expand... It's all about setting up our boats for how and where we use them. What is right for one person may be wrong for another. I sail primarily in Nantucket sound where there is always wind. The most common forecast in the summer is 10-15 gusting 20 or 25. In the spring and fall it's more like 15-20 gusting 25-30. I sailed 166 days last season and only had to motor in one time. There was still a couple of kts of wind and I was ghosting along at about 1 kt but decided to motor. The furthest I would ever have to motor would be from Nantucket to my home port on Cape Cod which is about 23 miles. Solar Enthusiastsolarbot said: Legacy 12 volt subsystem. Nearly all of the existing 12 volt subsystem is going to stay: starter motor, cabin lights, electronics, etc. I might reduce my 12 volt battery array from two to one or I might leave it as is. The main change is the solar charging system, it becomes 48 volts. So I need to charge the 12 volt system from the 48 volt system. My tentative solution is to connect a standard MPPT charge controller to the 48 volt battery bus and let it do its job as a buck converter with battery charging intelligence. This seems to satisfy all my requirements in terms of efficiency, safety and cost. If anybody out there has a better idea I would love to hear about it. Click to expand... doug said: I looked at using an MPPT converter to charge a 12V battery from a 48V battery, but I ended up getting a voltage & current limited DC-DC converter and it works well. I have a diode on the output to prevent backwards current from the 12V battery when the DC-DC converter is in standby, though I'm not entirely sure I need it, but for now this is the safe option. It charges in constant current mode up to the set current, then when it reaches the set voltage, it switches over to constant voltage mode. I believe you could operate 2 or more in parallel if you wanted a faster charge rate (I recommend diodes for each). I also have a boost converter from the same manufacturer to charge the 48V from the 12V and that works for the rare occasions where I want that. The diode is critical in this direction though. Click to expand... solarbot said: Thanks, that's basically the other option I considered, but I thought my electrical engineering skills too weak at this point to determine how it would behave in a fully charged state. You provided me with some ammunition to investigate that further. What made you decide against an MPPT converter? Click to expand... doug said: The MPPT would need some sort of current limiting feature so as to not destroy itself... Click to expand... solarbot said: I see I'm going to need to learn a whole lot more about electronics to make this call correctly. Click to expand... MisterSandals said: Its actually a fairly common feature of some SCC's. You simply enter a value for the max charging amps and you're done. You just need to make sure you buy an SCC with that ability if you need that functionality. I have a Victron 100/30 and can set it with a bluetooth app in about 15 seconds. Click to expand... Similar threads- Aug 7, 2024
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Repowering a 55' sailboat- Add to quote
- Former motor: 120 HP diesel engine (substantially more power than needed, even at hull speed).
- Length: 55’ (49’ at waterline)
- Beam: 16’ (14-15 ft at waterline)
- Hull speed: 9.4 knots (calculated, and seems about right from experience)
- Prop: 24” diameter, feathering, with adjustable pitch (currently 24”, I believe)
- Transmission: 2.57 reduction (inline gear reduction), also acting as thrust bearing (I believe)
- Moorage: Washington state (but need to move from Columbia River to Puget Sound)
- Electric motor primarily for moving in and out of marina
- Mostly day sailing, but with occasional trips to Hawaii / South Pacific
- Potentially add a 5kw diesel generator for continuous motoring at 4 knots (calculated guess)
- I’m planning on keeping the feathering prop, as I don’t intend to attempt regen until I’m beyond day sailing and will be taking her to Hawaii or the South Pacific.
- I can’t figure out how to get enough power running at 48V
- Ideally a 5:1 reduction would allow the motor to run at higher speeds and I could use the entire motor range at existing 24” prop pitch (but I have the existing 2.57 reduction)
- Minimum” recommended” OK range (from Propeller Handbook, Dave Gerr), (0.65 pitch ratio), but could go as low as 13” with additional efficiency loss)
- Assumes 45% slip (calculated based on Propeller Handbook, not measured)
- 100Ah & 144V = 14.4kW
- Alternatively, buy a used Nissan Leaf battery and tear it apart. (Same 14.4kW assuming batteries are only at 60% - but extra work and an extra hundred pounds or so. Savings is substantial, though. Price goes from $7-8,000 for batteries to around $1500.)
- At 4 knots approx. 2.5 hours of runtime = 10 nautical miles
- At 9 knots approx. 20 minutes of runtime = 3 nautical miles
- Anything above 4 knots will take > 5kW and will use battery
- Anything below 4 knots will charge battery
- 24” pitch at 4 knots requires 1100 motor RPM (9.4 knots = 2700 RPM)
- 18” pitch at 4 knots requires 1500 motor RPM (9.4 knots = 3600 RPM)
- 14” pitch at 4 knots requires 2000 motor RPM (9.4 knots = 4600 RPM)
- Hype-9: 1000 – 6000 RPM
- AC-51: 1000 – 6000 RPM
- My Dad, Uncle and Grandpa bought the hull and custom built the boat. It’s beautiful! I took over the boat a few years back. I’d like to repower the boat partially to make it easier for me (I’m more comfortable with electric motors than diesel), and partially to add sweat equity into the boat in order to share in the family effort to build the boat. One of my sons will also be joining me in the effort.
- It’s in the Columbia River now, and I’ll need to move it out the mouth of the Columbia, then up and around the Olympic mountain range, and into Puget Sound. I have a slip for her in the southern part of the Sound.
- Although likely use is day sailing for the next few years (once or twice a month), eventually I’d like to take her to Hawaii, and beyond. But that will likely be several years from now.
- It would give me closer to the full range of the motor (4600 RPM at hull speed vs effective top range of 6000 RPM for the engine)
- I’d lose a little efficiency of a higher pitch, but wouldn’t have to buy another inline gear reduction, or figure out how to do a belt system or the like. It just seems simpler, and the gear reducer is attached to the driveshaft already.
- Can I put that many in series (45 – 48 cells) to get 14.4kW hours at 144V? If so, do I need to use any special connector bars since I’ll be pulling 500 Amps, or are the thick copper ones they ship with sufficient?
- Should I buy them on Alibaba for less than $5,000 for 50 batteries or get them from someplace a more traditional store (EV West, Stealth EV, etc )?
- Should I go with an OEM battery and just rip it apart?
- Which BMS should I use? I’m thinking the Orion BMS2, but they are expensive. ( Comparison | Orion Li-Ion Battery Management System )
- Netgain Hyper-9 - AC / Large Motor Kits :: Netgain HyPer 9 :: HyPer 9 IS (Integrated System)
- HPEVS AC50/51 - AC-50 72-108 Volt 650 Amp Kit
- HPEVS AC34/35 - AC-34 48 Volt 650 Amp Kit
- Or should I do something completely different? I’m not wanting to use a brushed motor, and would like something more plug and play than doing my own build from a forklift motor. I’m comfortable with working with electronics and electricity, but for this build I’m looking for more simplicity.
- By my calculations I can push the boat approx. 4 knots with 5kw.
- I don’t have any idea on a charging system. At all.
- Oh, my. What am I missing? When I started writing this thread I felt like I knew a lot more than I feel like I do now! :-O
You have given this a lot of thought. I am a marine systems tech, who sailed away from Victoria, BC, in 2011. Made it as far as New Zealand, before running out of money. Now planning to sell the boat, and return to Canada. I am at the hypothetical stage, of planning a car conversion, when I get back. (And maybe a boat conversion farther in the future) Either the Hyper9, or AC50 would work. I like the Hyper9, mostly because they have a matched controller, and the higher voltage adds to efficiency. I think keeping your gearbox is a good choice, for your application. What is your current engine's cruising RPM? If it is a Lehman or Nissan, I'm guessing around 1800 RPM. 24" pitch sounds like a lot, but I am used to smaller boats. I would suggest getting the batteries and charging system figured out first, followed by removing the diesel, and fitting the motor. Worry about the prop after the boat is moving under electric power. As it is a feathering prop, you can adjust the pitch after you get a sense of the performance and have real world RPM to base things off. Prop calculations are complicated, requiring assumptions that affect the result, but may not be accurate. Most 'prop guys' can tell from experience, what the pitch should be, from the basic boat stats. Knowing your actual motor RPM and your target RPM, should allow you to get the correct pitch, without too much trouble. Check out Will Prouse on Youtube, DIY Solar Power. He reviews a lot of different lithium iron phosphate battery manufacturer's products, often cracking open the case, to inspect the internals. He also discusses battery management systems. If you are considering a battery pack, from a salvaged EV, take a look at Damien Mcguire's Youtube channel, EVBMW. He gets into the fine details of hacking and repurposing EV systems. My general impression is that putting together a propulsion system with something like a Hyper9 and lithium iron phosphate batteries is expensive, but reasonably straight-forward. Using a system from a salvaged EV can be pretty inexpensive, but tends to be complicated, especially for those of us without knowledge of CAN bus. I'm not sure a diesel generator is going to have the benifit that you expect. 5kW converts to an equivalent of about 6.7 horsepower. 5kW won't move your boat at 4 knots. Your 120hp diesel is equivalent to a 90kW Hyper9. If you are running it easy, just over half power, at 50kW (67hp), you will need 50kW hours of capacity, for every hour of range that you want. I can't see a battery pack of less than 150kW hours being practical. And that brings us back to the question of new, or salvaged batteries. - ?
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Repowering Your Boat: What You Need To KnowAdvertisement There are many considerations when starting a repower project, including some that are unrelated to the performance requirements of your boat.These five below, should give you a good starting point from which to plan your shopping list. Transom Limitations: Space and WeightThe physical limitations of your transom will dictate how much horsepower and weight you can put back there. While modern four-strokes are getting close to their two-stroke counterparts in weight, they still will add to the load at the stern. If you were not running the maximum-rated horsepower in your previous set up, you may have some wiggle room, and be able to absorb some extra weight without impacting seaworthiness. It's a good idea to check with your boatbuilder what the design limitations were before you start shopping. Weight considerations could limit you to DI two-stroke technology. Space is more of an issue if you are running twins (or more) because some of the high-horsepower modern four-strokes need more width between the engines, but not always. Honda, for example, designed their four-strokes to fit the standard footprint for easy repowers. In addition, with the increased horsepower ratings available today, you may wish to switch from twins to a single outboard configuration. For example, swapping twin-150s for a single 300-hp motor, in theory, will reduce both weight and drag, which should increase fuel economy without sacrificing performance. However, boatbuilders caution that the increased power and torque of these modern, power-dense outboards can be too much for transoms that weren't designed for it. A safe bet is to limit horsepower to the highest horsepower single engine configuration offered as original equipment. The boatbuilder should be able to go into greater detail. Rigging: Time To Upgrade To Electronic Controls?This is your chance to simplify your dash and clean up the console, as well as consider adding joystick control, if you are running twins. If you've got a large multifunction display, you may also wish to network it to your outboard(s) to allow it to display engine data. To do so, you need to look for an outboard that supports NMEA standard data outputs or one that offers a "gateway" converter that changes proprietary outputs into a data stream that your chartplotter can use. Converting to joystick control will also require hydraulic steering, and a specialized command bus to talk to the joystick. How you intend to use your outboard? If you do a lot of trolling or low speed operation, you may benefit from an outboard that makes use of fuel saving tactics like stratified combustion. If you run offshore or through an inlet to go fishing, you may benefit from electronic throttle controls combined with an outboard with instantaneous mid-range punch. Maintenance SchedulesScheduled maintenance intervals have a big impact on the cost of ownership during the life of the outboard. In general, DI two-strokes will have longer intervals between scheduled services because they lack mechanically-controlled drive trains that need adjustment every 500 to 1,000 hours. Although recently Mercury unveiled a 150-hp four-stroke that should not require valve adjustments at all during it's lifetime. Four strokes also need regular oil changes. But annual oil changes should be weighed against the operating cost of burning oil in a DI two-stroke. Electrical DemandThe amperage output of most outboards has increased over the years, but if you run an electric trolling motor all day, or a suite of electronics while drifting or slow-trolling, the alternator on your outboard better be able to keep up. Check not only the rated amperage output, but also make a note of what the output is a low rpm, where it could half of what it is a cruising speeds. Related ArticlesThe truth about ceramic coatings for boats. Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings. Fine-Tune Your Side Scan FishfinderTake your side-scanning fishfinder off auto mode, and you’ll be spotting your prey from afar in no time DIY Boat Foam DeckingClosed-cell foam flooring helps make boating more comfortable. Here’s how to install it on your vessel Click to explore related articles Michael VatalaroContributor, BoatUS Magazine Michael Vatalaro is the former executive editor of BoatUS Magazine. He has a Pursuit center console, which he uses in the Chesapeake Bay. BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS MembershipMembership Benefits Include: Subscription to the print version of BoatUS Magazine 4% back on purchases from West Marine stores or online at WestMarine.com Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more… All for only $25/year! We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. By continuing to use our website, you’re agreeing to our cookie policy. |
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Oceanvolt offers Hybrid or Electric systems as a power & propulsion option in partnership with many leading monohull boat builders - adding new partners continuously. We also offer repowering solutions for converting away from legacy diesel engines - removing the diesel engine, fuel tanks and exhaust system - cleaning up greasy, smelly engine compartments and freeing up both weight and space ...
The era of electric sailboat motors is here. Looking for a conversion or a new electric motor for your sailboat/yacht? This post explains everything to help you make a wise choice.
The new Gunboat G4 cat will have electric ring-drive 2 6kw motors that are capable of regenerating electricity. They use LIon batts and mount about 1kw of photovoltaics on the boat. Gunboat will also offer a generator option to keep the batteries topped off. It will be a foiler.
Learn how to repower your sailboat with electric motors from different companies and battery types. Compare speed, range, runtime and installation methods for various horsepower and voltage levels.
But the electric propulsion is an $10,680 option without batteries. You would still need to plug in to charge any appreciable amount. The Yanmar diesel at $11,100 is a much better value and will give a much longer range under power at lower cost. Nice boat but nothing new really.
Powerful, Quality Electric Sailboat Motors. Get back to boating as it should beClean, Green & Quiet.
Frequently Asked Questions regarding electric and hybrid electric motors, replacing diesel engines with electric, electric conversion formulas, and more.
Explore VETUS E-LINE AIR electric propulsion for boats, offering efficient, sustainable repower options for small tenders and sailboats.
Looking to repower an old sailboat or purchase a new electric yacht? Learn about the pros, cons, and future of electric yachts and sailboats.
Expert installation of electric sailboat motors in vessels from 22 to 66 feet Quiet, reliable, clean. For less than the cost of a diesel repower, enjoy the benefits of electric sailing. Take a demo sail with us today. Team Electric Blue Coconut Grove, Florida(939) 630-5957(786) 543-3412 [email protected]
Absolutely everything you need to know about electric motors on sailboats is right here, in this episode where we have an in-depth discussion with Dan and Ki...
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Ep75 After a year, a rundown on the Golden Motor 48V 10KW BLDC electric motor sailboat conversion Sailboat Power - Experiences, Solar and Tech, Victron Energy
In this episode, we have created a "proof of concept" motor for our 34' Irwin Citation Sailboat and bench tested the components needed to get us off the dock...
Repowering with an Elco Electric Motor You have expressed an interest in applying ELCO electric propulsion to a boat by contacting us for information on suitability and cost, regarding a particular vessel you have in mind.
Electric Yacht Offers a complete package designed to make an electric repower as easy and straight forward as possible: uses state of the art permanent magnet ac (PMAC) motors and vector motor controllers, maximizing efficiency across the entire operating envelope.offers adjustable regeneration that can be optimized to your boat, propeller and sailing conditions. The QuietTorque™ 10.0 is ...
Wondering if anyone out there has done an engine re-power from OMC Saildrive to electric (Electric Yacht, specifically) on a similar O'Day to my 27. I've weighed the options and I think my situation is a great candidate for an electric re-power. I don't really want to spend any more time trying to get the old saildrive running (two attempts thus far pulling the motor completely out), and I'm ...
So here is my story. I'm converting my 1979 Cape Dory 30 sailboat from a 14 hp diesel to a 10Kw 48V electric motor (the motor is ordered). I was planning on just using 8 105 Ah 12V batteries in a 4S2P configuration to yield 48V and 210 Ah but @ 60% this would only give me 126 usable Ah with a cost of around $2600.
I'd like to repower the boat partially to make it easier for me (I'm more comfortable with electric motors than diesel), and partially to add sweat equity into the boat in order to share in the family effort to build the boat.
In Part One, Jack Wilken of Seattle Boat Works describes the systems and layout of the new electric power system that has replaced the diesel engine. This is all in the old engine compartment ...
There are many considerations when starting a repower project, including some that are unrelated to the performance requirements of your boat.
Repowering is a lot faster and easier than many people think. And that's just one reason to consider repowering your boat. Here are some more, along with expert advice from Mercury. 1. Convenience: You Can Repower Many Types of Boats. If a boat's transom and hull are in safe, operable condition, it can probably be repowered.