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Viking Yachts 90 Convertible Reviewed

• By Sam White
• July 10, 2024

Forced to discontinue production of its popular 92-footer, Viking Yacht Company took a step back and brought its decades of boatbuilding know-how to the forefront with a redesigned yacht: the Viking 90. 

“We could have continued production of the 92 except for an international mandate requiring the installation of a heavy, bulky and potentially dangerous exhaust-treatment technology called Selective Catalytic Reduction,” says Viking President and CEO Pat Healey. “The SCR systems in the 92 would have increased purchase and operating costs of the boat; added significant weight; reduced performance; hindered accessibility for service; compromised safety; and required additional ventilation and onboard tankage. With the new 90, we invested $20 million to develop a new flagship sportfishing yacht that does not require SCR. It was a costly decision, but one that had to be made because it’s the best product for our owners.” 

The Viking 90 is a leveled-up sport-fishing boat in several ways. Viking took what it learned from the 92, as well as other recent new models, including the 82, and applied that knowledge to the 90. Improved elements include the latest lifting-strake design, a refined driveline and prop pockets, along with the advanced propulsion systems. Performance was optimized through the use of computational fluid dynamics software, allowing the design team to analyze pressure distribution, study trim angle and trim tab effectiveness, and modify strakes and chines to increase running efficiency.

At the business end of the 90, the cockpit measures 224 square feet, with a 203-gallon transom fishbox/livewell and a pair of full-length, 103-gallon insulated in-deck fishboxes with optional refrigeration. Access to the Seakeeper 35 gyrostabilizer is via a centerline hatch. There are three aft-facing seating areas on the upper and lower mezzanine levels, with optional air conditioning in the backrests, plus freezer and refrigeration stowage as well as engine room access on centerline. 

The vessel’s interior has a six-stateroom, seven-head layout with a high level of style and luxury. The U-shaped lounge to port is perfect for anglers to rest out of the sun while enjoying the starboard-side home theater center with pop-up 65-inch HDTV, wet bar with sink and ice maker. 

A wraparound galley with refrigeration and freezers is forward and starboard. It has engineered stone countertops and five bar stools. Across from the dinette is a raised dinette with U-shaped seating and a walnut table. The elevated platform allows for excellent views outside while also providing a rod locker with pull-out drawer below. 

The 90 has a full-beam master stateroom with king-size berth, a his-and-hers head with shower, a credenza below a 65-inch HDTV, a vanity/desk area with swing-out stool on the starboard side, a portside lounge seat, and port and starboard credenzas with drawers. There are five additional guest staterooms, each with an en suite head and shower, crew quarters with immediate access to the engine room, a pantry with an additional crew athwartship berth and a day head.

The Viking Yachts 90 is available in three models: an open bridge, enclosed bridge and sky bridge. Caterpillar C32A 1,925 hp engines are standard, but the most popular setup are the twin 2,635 hp MTU 16V2000 M96L diesels.

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On the trail of the Vikings in Veliky Novgorod

Veliky Novgorod (589 kilometers from Moscow and often referred to simply as “Novgorod”) was for many centuries the most important commercial hub in Eastern Europe, having developed relations with German and Scandinavian cities, the Black Sea region and with Muslim centers of the East. A unique political system emerged here that was republican at its core. Novgorod was fortunately spared a Mongol invasion and its development was not stunted by the catastrophic destruction that afflicted ancient Rus’, whose largest cities were turned to ashes.  

From the Varangians to Rus’

The Vikings sailed great distances for more than just plunder: in the ninth century Novgorod’s rivers were part of a major trading route “from the Varangians to the Greeks.” Byzantine merchants preferred traveling along this route and traded in the cities located along its river banks, as in the hinterland merchants could fall prey to murderous bandits and thieves. The demand for warriors that could guarantee the security of overseas guests and these thriving cities was enormous. The Vikings had no equals in the art of war and were welcomed. Therefore many offered their services to a Slavic ruler, settled down here and became citizens of Rus’.

The ancient capital

According to another version, outlined in the “Tale of Bygone Years” (the 12th century Russian chronicles and the oldest that have survived), it was Novgorod’s inhabitants themselves who asked Rurik to be their ruler and establish order during a difficult period of internecine fighting. As a result, in the ninth century Rurik reached the banks of the Volkhov River with a small group of warriors and founded a settlement there whose traces can still be seen 13 kilometers from Novgorod.

On the right bank of the Volkhov River there is a towering hill. This is all that’s left of Rurik’s ancient settlement, the residence of the first Russian ruling dynasty, the Rurikids. The city of Novgorod was later christened as the “New City” (Novy Gorod in Russian) to differentiate itself from this older outpost. This small hill today is covered by green grass. However, in the 10th century wooden streets could be found here, the first ones to appear in ancient Rus’.

In the 12th century it was on this hill that the Annunciation Cathedral was built, while on the opposite bank of the river a cathedral was built in honor of St. George, becoming the main church of the Yuriev Monastery. The sparkle of the two sanctuaries’ domes welcomed guests coming to Novgorod’s land from the northern direction of Lake Ilmen. Today all that’s left of the Annunciation Cathedral are some picturesque ruins. But if you come here by boat (the river is open to navigation from May to September), it’s not difficult to imagine the prince sailing on a light “ladya” boat towards his town and being welcomed by the ringing bells of the two cathedrals.

Messages from the past

It is worth going to the local museum-reserve to inspect the personal correspondence of Novgorod’s citizenry dating back to the 11th-12th centuries. Such sentences are common: “buy butter, buy clothes for your children and let your son learn to read and write;” “so let your heart and your soul burn of passion when you see me;” or “send me the money, even if you don’t send money to Svenya, send money to me.” These correspondences allow visitors to practically look through the keyhole of an ancient city.

If you want to do more than just read about the days of old, then go to the small town of Staraya Russa (about 100 kilometers from Novgorod), on Aug. 8 to attend the festival of early medieval culture “Knyazhia Bratchina.” For a couple of days you can pretend to be Rurik or a Viking guard before returning to reality with a Varangian sword as a souvenir. 

How to get there

By car: From Moscow – 640 kilometers (about 7 hours), from Saint-Petersburg – 195 kilometers (about 2 hours)

By train: From Moscow take train “Ilmen” from Leningradsky Station. The journey takes 8 hours and 30 minutes from St. Petersburg. Then take train "Lastochka" from Moskovsky Station. The journey takes about 3 hours.

Where to stay

Park Inn Veliky Novgorod   RestUp Hostel  

Where to eat

Restaurant Ilmen  (ancient Scandinavian cuisine) La Chatte Cafe

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• Places - European, Western and Northern Russia

NOVGOROD (SOUTH OF ST. PETERSBURG): THE CRADLE OF RUSSIA AND THE HOME OF ITS OLDEST CHURCHES AND SETTLEMENTS

Western european russia.

Western European Russia refers the area between Moscow and St. Petersburg that borders Ukraine, Belarus, Latvia, Estonia and the Baltic Sea in the east. The region is comprised of rolling hills, farms and steppe. It was site of fierce fighting in World War II and other wars.

Western European Russia is the heartland of Russia. Before the creation of the Russian Empire, Russian territory included a number of independent and semi-independent princedom and republics such as Novgorod, Pskov and Tver. Other groups were created such as the Cossacks and Old Believers mainly on the periphery of the empire.

Early Scandinavians in Russia were known as Rus to the Slavs (Rhos to the Byzantines). Rus is an Arabic word and the source of the word Russia. It may have been used to describe the dominant Kievan Viking clan and later became affixed to the Eastern Slavs in the north, while those in the south became known as Ukrainians and Belarussians. The Rus were also called Varangians and Varyagi. The Baltic was known as the Varangian Sea and their trade routes were called the Varangian Way.The Rus mingled with the local people and helped set up a series of small principalities centered around single families and clans. They became concentrated in places like Novgorod, Smolensk and Kiev. Viking princes became rulers in Novgorod and Kiev in 862 and 882.

Western European Russia was the first stage of the medieval trade routes between Scandinavia and the Middle East. Byzantium based in Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) was the richest empire in the Viking era and the easiest way for the Vikings to reach it was via the rivers of Russia. There were two main trade routes used by the Rus that began in the Baltic Sea. One went down the Dnieper River to the Black Sea and Constantinople. The other followed the Volga to the Caspian Sea.

The Vikings traded furs, amber, honey, beeswax, weapons and slaves from the north for silks and silver. Most of the goods that made their way between Europe, Russia and the Middle East followed Viking trade routes. Of the 120,000 coins found in Gotland Sweden, 50,000 were of Arabic origin (the rest were mostly English or German). The Rus traveled in convoys and flotillas, often with more than more than hundred boats, and built fortified trading posts. They traveled on the inland waterways in shallow-draft boats carved by local residents from tree trunks. They were about 20 feet long and 7 to 10 feet wide.

Novgorod Oblast

Novgorod Oblast is one of Russia's oldest regions and the site of early Viking trading posts located where the Viking traders hauled their boats overland from the Baltic lakes to the Dnieper River. Founded by the Rurik dynasty in the A.D. 860s, it lies at the crossroads of international trade routes and was inhabited by Finno-Ugrians, Slavs and Varangians (Scandinavian merchants and warriors). Novgorod should not be confused with Nizhny Novgorod, which lies 420 kilometers east of Moscow.

Novgorod Oblast (region) covers 55,300 square kilometers (21,400 square miles), is home to about 600,00 people and has a population density of only 11 people per square kilometer. You’d be hard pressed to come up with an area that is richer in history than Novgorod. The region full of monuments, museums, churches, estates and monasteries. Places over a thousand years old can be seen almost in its original form. And some of the sights of the Novgorod region — Yuryev Monastery, the Novgorod Kremlin and Yaroslavovo Courtyard — have been recognized as national monuments or UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The great Russian composer Sergei Rachmaninov was born in the Novgorod region.

Getting There: The distance between Moscow to Veliky Novgorod, the main city in Novgorod Oblast, by highway is about 550 kilometers. The trip by car takes about seven hours. From St. Petersburg, it is only 150 kilometers to Novgorod, a road trip of two to three hours depending on the traffic. By Train: The train ride from Moscow take eight and a half hours. A ticket in a compartment costs about 300 rubles. The fast train between Moscow and St. Petersburg skirts Novgorod. That trip takes about three hours. The cost of a one-way ticket is about 650 rubles. Trains run daily. By bus: Veliky Novgorod-Valdai: tickets from 407 rubles. Veliky Novgorod-Staraya Russa: 275 rubles. Veliky Novgorod-Borovichi: from 490 rubles. Route schedule and tickets: https://avokzal53.ru/ .

E105 is part of the International E-road network and one of the main roads in Europe. Begins in Kirkenes, Norway and follows the M18, M10 and M2 in Russia and the M18 in the Ukraine, ending in Yalta, Ukraine. Some cities on its route include Kirkenes, Murmansk, Kandalaksha, Saint Petersburg, Novgorod, Tver, Moscow, Kharikiv, Simferopol and Yalta. The road may be closed due to heavy snows or rains. Long delays may occur at the border crossing. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, the road is closed to vehicles with a foreign registration

Early History of Novgorod

Novgorod is one of Russia's oldest city and the site of early Viking trading post located where the Viking traders hauled their boats overland from the Baltic lakes to the Dnieper River. Founded by the Rurik dynasty in the A.D. 860s, it lay at the crossroads of international trade routes and was inhabited by Finno-Ugrians, Slavs and Varangians (Scandinavian merchants and warriors).

By the ninth century, Scandinavian and Rus warriors and merchants, had penetrated the East Slavic regions. According to the Primary Chronicle,the earliest chronicle of Kievan Rus', a Varangian named Rurik first established himself in Novgorod, just south of modern-day St. Petersburg, in about 860 before moving south and extending his authority to Kiev. The chronicle cites Rurik as the progenitor of a dynasty that ruled in Eastern Europe until 1598. Another Varangian, Oleg, moved south from Novgorod to expel the Khazars from Kiev and founded Kievan Rus' about A.D. 880. During the next thirty-five years, Oleg subdued the various East Slavic tribes. [Source: Library of Congress, July 1996]

Novgorod was comprised of wooden building placed around streets consisting of pine logs placed over the marshy ground. The pine log streets were replaced every 20 to 30 years. In some places archeologist have unearthed 30 layers of logs. Describing 10th century Novgorod, the Arab geographer Ibn Rustah wrote: "As for the Rus, they live on an island...that takes three days to walk around and is covered with thick undergrowth and forests; it is most unhealthy...They harry the Slavs, using ships to reach them; they carry them off as slaves and...sell them. They have no field but simply live on what they get from the Slavs' lands...When a son is born, the father will go up to the newborn baby, sword in hand; throwing it down, he says, 'I shall not leave you with any property: You have only what you can provide with this weapon.'"

Later Novgorod was supplanted by Kiev but the Republic of Novgorod prospered as part of Kievan Rus' because it controlled trade routes from the Volga River to the Baltic Sea. The destruction of Novgorod in World War II gave archeologist a unique opportunity to excavate the city. Birch-bark documents uncovered in Novgorod from the 11th and 12th century included lists of saints and requests for payments and mentioned fishing, weaving, embroidery and production of various kinds of cloth. One read: "Greeting from Nastasia to my lord, to my brother. My Boris is not alive anymore." Another read: "From Mikita to Ulianica. Marry me. I want you and you want me. Send Ignat as a witness.”

Novgorod City

Novgorod (150 kilometers south-southeast of St. Petersburg) is an ancient city in the Slavic heartland. Regarded as a Russian version of Williamsburg and officially known as Veliky Novgorod,it draws large numbers of tourists, most of them Russians, to its reconstructed kremlin, old stone churches and open-air museum of historic wooden buildings. The modern city of Novgorod is home to about 230,000 people. It had a progressive governor after the collapse of the Soviet Union that helped attract nearly US$1 billion in foreign investment, for a variety of projects, including a Cadbury chocolate factory. Novgorod should not be confused with Nizhny Novgorod, which lies 420 kilometers east of Moscow. Official portal of Krasnaya Izba Tourism Development Center / visitnovgorod.ru

Most of the sights are in the historic center of Novgorod on the Volkhov River. The kremlin is on one side of the river and the old market district on the other. As is true in other places many Soviet-era street and landmark names were changed after 1991 but people continue to use the old names. Some streets even have two signs: one with the old name and one with the new name. Novgorod is a pleasant city to stroll around in. B oat trips can be done on the Volkhov River, Lake Ilmen and the marshes surrounding the town. A few boats that gather around the kremlin landing have scheduled one-hour trips, Other take groups of 10 or more for a set fee.

Novgorod has a myriad of monuments, museums, churches and historical buildings. Sometimes it is hard to determine where the city of Veliky Novgorod leaves off and the museum begins. About 50 of the most valuable monuments of ancient Russian architecture from the 11th–17th centuries have become a part of the city's contemporary living structure. When you walk around the city you can touch the rough walls of churches and see medieval frescoes mixed in with shops and restaurants. Even Detention Center No. 1 is housed in an architectural monument of the 19th century. In the center of the city archaeologists discovered wooden pavement from the 14th century which extended almost a kilometer to the river.

Novgorod is Russia's oldest city and the cradle of Russian civilization. Founded by the Rurik dynasty in the A.D. 860s, it was the first permanent settlement if the Varangian Vikings who established the early Russian sate. It's name, ironically, means "new town," most likely because it replaced a nearby town. According to legend, Prince Rurik, the founder of the Russian state, was born here in 862.

Novgorod began as an early Viking trading post and developed into important Slavic trading Center. After Christianity was introduced in the late 10th century, Novgorod filled with churches built in a distinctive style and a famous school of icon making was founded. The city flourished during the 12th and 13th century, when it was called "Lord Novgorod the Great," and remained relatively unscathed during the Mongol invasion because the Mongol horses got bogged down in swamps outside the town. The city did pay tribute to the Golden Horde.

According to UNESCO: “Situated on the ancient trade route between Central Asia and northern Europe, Novgorod was Russia's first capital in the 9th century. Surrounded by churches and monasteries, it was a center for Orthodox spirituality as well as Russian architecture. Its medieval monuments and the 14th-century frescoes of Theophanes the Greek (Andrei Rublev's teacher) illustrate the development of its remarkable architecture and cultural creativity.

For centuries Novgorod existed as an independent quasi-democratic state whose princes were picked by a citizen's assembly. It suffered under early the tsars who punished the city for displaying independence. Ivan the Terrible raised the entire city and massacred 60,000 people in a brutal pogrom. When St. Petersburg was founded, Novgorod declined in importance as a trading center.

Destruction of Novgorod in World War II

Novgorod did not emerge from World War II unscathed. The Nazis held the city for two and half years and left it almost completely destroyed. Almost all the remaining wooden churches and 12th to 14th century frescoes and icons, plus around 4,500 of 5,000 first rate works of art, were lost. Among the more than 3,000 precious monuments destroyed by the Nazis, the most tragic worst lose was the destruction of the 12th century frescoes in the Old Church of the Savior in Novgorod.

The Red Army liberated the city on January 19, 1944. Out of 2,536 stone buildings, fewer than forty remained standing. After the war, thanks to plans laid down by Alexey Shchusev, the central part was gradually restored.

Of the 70 or stone churches built between 11th and 16th centuries, about 40 survived the bombardment and were restored. Among those that survived are the Cathedral of Sant Sophia (1045-1050) and the Church of the Transfiguration on Nereditsa Hill (1198). Some of the great frescoes inside survived. Of the 47 that remained in the 1980s, one was active and the remainder were state monuments or museums. None of them were heated in the winter.

Historic Monuments of Novgorod: UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Historic Monuments of Novgorod and Surroundings was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. According to UNESCO: “ These historic monuments “have a direct relation to the process of establishment of the Old Russian state in 9th-10th centuries. The urban aristocracy that governed the city-republic through a People's Assembly (Vece) invited a prince from the Swedish (Varangian) dynasty of the Rurikids to reign over the Russian lands throughout 700 years.

“Due to the care of its Orthodox archbishops, Novgorod was one of the oldest and most important centers of Russian art and, more generally, of Russian culture. The most ancient Russian Old Church Slavonic manuscripts (11th century) were written at Novgorod, including an autonomous historiography (as early as the 12th century) and, in particular, the first complete translation into Slavonic of the Old and New Testaments (late 15th century). Novgorod was a birthplace of the national style of stone architecture, and one of the oldest national schools of painting.

“The majority of historical monuments are associated with Novgorod Republic (12th-15th centuries) which itself was a unique phenomenon of Medieval Russia. It was only after the conquest of the two republics (1478, in the case of Novgorod) by the Muscovite rulers that the present Russian capital acquired cultural supremacy.

“Novgorod’s historic monuments are situated not only in the city center but also in some outlying areas. In Novgorod itself, there is the district of Saint Sophia, including the Kremlin with its 15th-century fortifications, reinforced in the 17th century; the church of St. Sophia from the mid-11th century; and other monuments from the 12th to 19th centuries. There are monuments in the commercial district, including many of the oldest churches in the town, such as the Church of the Transfiguration, decorated with frescoes at the end of the 14th century by Theophanes the Greek, who was the teacher of Andrei Rublev. There are also four religious monuments from the 12th and 13th centuries outside the old town, including the famous Saviour Church on Nereditsa.

“The outstanding archaeological and cultural layers of Novgorod of 10th-17th centuries occupy an area of about 347 hectares, with a depth of 7-8 meters and are waterlogged and anaerobic, thus preserving organic materials.” UNESCO says the site is important because: 1) it is “an outstanding cultural center, the birthplace of the national style of stone architecture, and one of the oldest national schools of painting, the town of Novgorod influenced the development of Russian art throughout the Middle Ages.” 2) “With the broad range of monuments conserved in Novgorod, the town is a veritable conservatory of Russian architecture of the Middle Ages and later periods (11th-19th centuries). These monuments alone suffice to illustrate the development of Russian architecture.” 3) “Novgorod was one of the major centers of Russian culture and spirituality; its monuments and the treasures they house bear living witness to this.”

Kremlin of Novgorod

Kremlin of Novgorod (next to the Volkhav River) is a large sprawling complex encompassing a large number of buildings and a park-like spaces. Among the buildings inside are the leaning 17th-century clock tower, the 15th-century St. Sophia belfry museum, Metropolitan's Chambers (with a concert hall and Pokrosskaya Tower.The Chamber of Facets contains an excellent collection of icons and church treasures. The Museum of History & Art is one best archaeological and historical research museums in Russia. It features early icons, birch-bark manuscripts, paintings, folk art and early wood sculptures.

The Novgorod Kremlin, also known as Novgorod detinets, is the oldest stone fortress in Russia. Founded by Prince Yaroslav and first mentioned in historical chronicles in 1044, the Kremlin was the administrative, public, and religious center of Novgorod and was where the veche and the election of the posadnik was held and was where Alexander Nevsky's troops set off to fight the Swedes, The Kremlin was also where the chronicles were kept and books copied. Its walls protected the Cathedral of St. Sophia and the residence of the Novgorod ruler.

The first Novgorod fortress was built in the middle of the 11th century. It was located on a small hill between two ravines where is St. Sophia Cathedral now stands. Under Prince Vladimir Vladimirovich Yaroslavich and Mstislav (11th -12th centuries) the kremlin expanded and reached its current size. At the end of the 15th century, the walls were built of the stones you see today.

The of walls are kremlin at Veliky Novgorod are about 1350 meters in length. Their thickness reaches four meters. Walking around the Kremlin takes about half an hour. The walls are best viewed when approached along the Volkhov River from Ilmen Lake. A road leading to the bridge joining the Sofiyskaya and Trading Squares, as was the case in medieval times, passes through the Kremlin. The 41-meter-high, 19th century, Kokuy observation tower offers a panoramic view of the entire city and the surrounding area. The landscape of the southern suburbs has remained almost unchanged since the time when Vikings called it Holmgard, a country of islands. The Volkhov starts from Ilmen Lake; its tributaries flow around numerous islands, overgrown with tall grass.

These days, the Kremlin is a cultural and tourist center. It hosts the major exhibits at the Novgorod Reserve Museum, conducts restoration workshops and sponsors a philharmonic, an artistic college, artistic and music schools. From May to November you can also visit “The Gallery of the Time”, an exhibitions about the history of Novgorod in the 20th century. The exhibition is housed is the the Spasskaya Tower and Princes Tower.

Towers and Monuments at Novgorod Kremlin

Of the twelve towers nine have survived. The oldest date to the 16th century. Intercession Tower, the only one the projecting beyond the wall was the most vulnerable during an artillery attack. Therefore, it has three-meter-thick walls and facades have 55 loopholes. The neighboring five-tiered tower Zlatoustovskaya Tower was converted into a prison in the 17th century. It former name meant Prison.

Two of the towers at the Kremlin of Novgorod are not typical round towers. One of them — the Metropolitan — dates to the 17th century and is known as "round" or "red." The second — Theodore — got its name from the church erected in memory of the brother of Alexander Nevsky, who died on the eve of his wedding. Theodore was canonized as a saint. His relics rest in the Cathedral of St. Sophia.

The highest tower of the Kremlin is Kokuy Watch Tower. It is 41 meters high and was built in 18th century and now is open for visiting in the summer from 11:00am to 7:00 pm, with a lunch break from 2:00pm to 3:00 pm, closed Monday and Thursday are days off. From its top opens a great view on Novgorod lands many kilometers away.

Millennium of Russia Monument (inside the kremlin across from Holy Sofia Cathedral) was raised on 1862 to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of the founding of Russia (the arrival of the Viking Prince Rurik in Novgorod in 862). The monument looks like a bell and consists of three tiers, each of which tells about the heroic past of Russia and its important dates — the baptism of Russia, the foundation of the Russian Empire and others. This huge bronze wedding cake features images of many of Russia's great figures, include the Alexander Nevesky, Peter the Great and Ivan the Terrible. The Nazi wanted to cut it up and use it for scrap but the Red Army arrived in time rescue it.

Holy Sofia Cathedral

Holy Sofia Cathedral (inside the kremlin) is considered the greatest church in Novgorod and is probably the oldest church in Russia. Finished in 1050, it is a stolid Byzantine structure with some of Russia’s most treasured relics, icons and Byzantine, West European and Russian art. The bronze doors captured from the Swedes are covered with biblical scenes. A few icons date back to the 14th century. Most of the frescoes have been painted in the last hundred years but some are among the oldest found in Russia.. It is possible to climb Sofia belfry. At the time it was built, the cathedral was the only stone building in Novgorod. Since the 11th century, a saying has gone, “Where there is St. Sophia, there is Novgorod.”

The cathedral was founded by Yaroslav the Wise and his son Vladimir. It was built from 1045 to 1050 years and is the oldest surviving stone building of the medieval Rus. Novgorod citizens have always regarded the cathedral with the greatest reverence. For example, they believed that it was Sofia who protected the city from Mongol attacks. It is known that in 1238, Mongol troops turned back after nearly reaching Novgorod. Citizens regarded this as a sign of God. In 1391, the city escaped a terrible plague. Again Novgorod citizens linked this with the intercession of St. Sophia.

The cathedral has five domes. In the 15th century, the central one was covered with gold, giving the cathedral an even more majestic appearance. Along with the gilding of the dome, a lead dove symbolizing the Holy Spirit was installed on the cross. A similar medieval Rus structure, Kiev Cathedral, has not survived to the present. According to legend, while painting the dome, the Savior's outstretched hand was depicted in the form of a fist. The fresco was repainted several times until the painter had a dream where Christ told him that he had deliberately balled his hand into fist to keep Novgorod in it.

In addition to fragments of 12th-century frescoes, the St. Sophia Cathedral also has ancient birch bark graffiti, scrabbled with a stylus (even though Duke Vladimir the Baptist of Kiev by decree had forbidden the cutting of inscriptions on the walls of temples already in the 10th century). These inscriptions have survived largely because Novgorod's architecture was never destroyed by Tatar raids. The inscriptions often address the Christian God, but some carry the echo of heathen beliefs and others are of a purely routine character.

Thanks to this graffiti, we know the names of some of those who worked during the construction and decoration of this masterpiece of ancient Russian architecture. They are George, Stephen and Sezhir. Once the cathedral was built, it was painted in stages and in separate fragments. Real painting work in the cathedral began only in 1108. This work partially hid earlier frescoes that were later discovered during the renovation of the cathedral in the late 19th century.

Today, visitors enter the Cathedral through the northern door. The western gate, Magdeburg Gate, was once the main entrance. It was moved and is now open on holidays and during ceremonial services. This gate is unusual as well. They came to Novgorod as a war trophy from Sweden in the 12th century. The gate was made in Germany in the city of Magdeburg. In the 15th century, the gate was reconstructed by a Russian craftsman Abraham; his image can be seen today on the gate next to the image of the German foundry craftsmen Veysmut and Rikvin.

Paintings and Icons in Holy Sofia Cathedral

In the Martiryevskaya portico, exceptional images of Saint Constantine and Helena, dating to the 11th century, have stood the test of time. They are quite unusual: the fresco was not painted on wet plaster, as usual, but on dry plaster. Researchers believe that this technique was used to paint the ancient wooden churches of Rus.

The final interior decorations in the St. Sophia Cathedral were completed in the 12th century. Two icons from the 11th-century altar have survived: “Savior on the Throne” and “Apostles Peter and Paul”. A newer, taller iconostasis was installed in the St. Sophia Cathedral much later, in the 14th-16th centuries.

The icon Our Lady of the Sign, painted in 1170, is considered to be miraculous; according to a legend, she protected the city from a Suzdal invasion. This event played such a significant role in the life of the city that it is still celebrated as a revered religious holiday. This story became the basis for another famous icon named the Battle of the Novogorodians with the Suzdalians.

There are two iconostases in the St. Sophia Cathedral today: the Assumption iconostasis and the Christmas iconostasis. Before the Assumption iconostasis, the miraculous icon Our Lady of the Sign can be seen. On the Christmas iconostasis, two icons that are considered to be miraculous can be seen: Our Lady of Tikhvin and Savior on the Throne. Our Lady of Tikhvin is the most revered icon. The Savior on the Throne icon was painted in the 16th century over a more ancient picture that also survived (it can be seen through special little windows).

Bell Tower of St. Sophia Cathedral

Bell Tower of St. Sophia Cathedral is a five-tier construction that looks like a white monolith and was built under Archbishop Euphemius II. At the foot of the tower there are five medieval monumental bells. The belfry itself houses bells of modern casting. Every day the sound of the bells can be heard far away above the city. The great Russian composer Sergei Rachmaninov, who was born in the Novgorod region, said the chimes of these bells was one of his brightest childhood memories. Now the belfry houses the exhibition “Ancient Bells of Veliky Novgorod”. The largest bell exhibited weighs over 20 poods (about 705 pounds, or 320 kilograms) and the smallest one is over 1.5 poods (about 53 pounds, or 24 kilograms). The viewing point provides a picturesque panorama of Veliky Novgorod. In the summer time it is open daily, except Tuesday.

Bell Tower of St. Sophia Cathedral stands over the Kremlin wall with five spans forming its upper part. This type of construction was invented during the reign of Euphemius II and then was duplicated only twice in Russia. The first mention of the bell tower is in 1437, when spring flooding of the river Volkhov brought the tower down. Two years later a new bell tower was built in the place of the old place. Since then the tower has been rebuilt many times, and only architectural and archeological research and the images on the ancient icons give us a picture of its original shape. However, the “main bells” of Novgorod, for the most part remain true to the original despite the reconstructions.

It is said that Sofia bells could be heard 80 kilometers (50 miles) away and were noted for the special melody they produced. These are the bells Rachmaninoff heard. Unfortunately, nowadays these bells are on the ground. During World War II, an effort was made to evacuate the bells on a barge, but the ship engine was hit by artillery, so the attempt to evacuate them failed and the bells were damaged. But maybe one day the sound of the bells will be heard again over Novgorod. Scientists are working on technologyto to “cure” the bells.

Now there is an exhibition “Ancient bells of Veliky Novgorod” in Sophia bell tower, which is represented by 14 bells. The biggest one weighs more than 20 poods (320 kg), and the smallest one is more than 1.5 poods (about 24 kg). Sightseeing platform which is located in the bell tower is open daily for visitors during the warm season. It opens a spectacular panoramic view of Veliky Novgorod.

Churches in Novgorod

Churches include Church of Our Savior of the Transfiguration, a medieval church with a an image of suffering Christ looking down from the central dome; the Church of Our Savior Nereditsa (1198), with some remnants of 12th century frescoes; Church off SS Peter and Paul (1406); and Church of St. Theodore Stratelaetes (1361). Some of the old churches such as the Church Intercession and Church of Apostle Philip are working churches with regular services. Others remain museums, concert halls and exhibition halls they were been converted into by the Communists.

Church of Our Savior-at-Ilino is a charming, solid-looking Novgorod-style, 14th-century church. The interiors contains the only surviving frescoes of the legendary Byzantine painter Theophanes the Greek. The church is in amazingly good shape considering it was used as a machine gun nest by the Nazis in World War II.

Church of St. Simeon the God-Receiver is a small two-tier church opened in 1467 and located on the ground of the former 12th century Zverin monastery. It was preceded by a wooden church built in one day under the vow given to stop the Great Plague. The unique wall-painting of the church interior are well. preserved. The arches, pillars, and walls are covered with small paintings of saints united in a way that makes it possible to pray for all the people died of plague. On the territory of the former monastery is the 14th century Church of the Protection of the Virgin. The relics of St. Savva of Vishera the Miracle-worker are kept here.

Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady in St. Anthony's Monastery Antonovo, Veliky Novgorod) was founded in the early 12th century and several original structures are intact till this day. The founder was a wealthy foreigner named Anthony who was born in Rome. His arrival in Novgorod has grown over with legends and tales that have been preserved in his hagiography (a literary genre that had a saint's life as its subject). According to one legend, Anthony the Roman arrived in Novgorod by sea on a rock, having sailed on it around the European continent miraculously in just three days. This rock is still displayed in the courtyard of the monastery's Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady that was built in 1117. It is said that the rock has healing powers.

Fragments of the original 12th century frescoes have been uncovered on the alter wall of the cathedral. The figures are depicted in very dynamic, turning positions and a very realistic. A name "Peter" is scratched out over one of the fresco's figures. It is thought that it is the name of the architect who built the cathedral. A seminary was established at the monastery in 1740 – it was one of Russia's first learning institutions. Now the building houses one of the departments of Novgorod State University named after Yaroslav the Wise.

Yaroslav Court and Cathedral of St. Nicholas

Yaroslav Court (accessible from the kremlin by a foot bridge over the Volkhav River) is the Novgorod market area. Named after Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who once had a palace here, it contains a 17th-century riverside arcade, a market gatehouse, old churches sponsored by medieval merchant guilds and an 18th-century road palace built as a rest stop for Catherine the Great. The Novgorod veche was gathering place for traders from all over Russia. Ships moored on the banks of the river. The historical architectural complex was badly damaged in World War II.

Court Cathedral of St. Nicholas is all that remains of Yaroslav's palace. Inside are remains are some 12th century frescoes, including fragments of “Job on the Dung Hill”, which shows of Job covered in boils, and “Last Judgement”. Most of the painting refers to the 19th century. Most of the frescoes date back to the 19th century. Currently, the Yaroslavl courtyard has been restored and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

St. Nicholas Cathedral was built in 1113-1136 and consecrated in honour of St.Nicholas the Miracle-Worker, who was highly revered in Rus. In May, 2013 exhibitions timed to the 900 anniversary of the cathedral were open: 1) drawings and graffiti from 11th to 14th centuries preserved on the walls of the Novgorod cathedrals; 2) materials related to the research and restoration of St. Nicholas Cathedra; and 3) an exhibition honoring of St. Nicholas the Miracle-Worker in Novgorod with many items including icons, liturgic items of different type and purpose, prince seals of the 11th to 13th centuries with the image of the saint. One round icon with St, Nicholas’ image, according to the legend, healed Prince Mstislav. There are hagiographic icons, icons from a cathedral iconostasis,, indicating about the honouring of St. Nichola as well as 16th century needlework and 16th century carved wooden sculpture by Nichola Mozhaisky.

Check out the panorama the Great Market and Prince yard in the new multimedia exhibition complex. A 360˚ panoramic screen, six meters in diameter shows images created using six wide-angle projectors controlled by high-power computers. The system also produces various sound effects.

Near Novgorod

Boating in Novgorod include boat trips on the Volkhov River, Lake Ilmen and the marshes surrounding the town. A few boats that gather around the kremlin landing have scheduled one-hour trips, Other take groups of 10 or more for a set fee. A boat trip along the Volkhov River to Lake Ilmen with a stop at Rurik’s Hill Fort cost 700 rubles for adults, 300 rubles for children students 7-12 years and is free for children under 7 years old.

Rurikovo Settlement (Rurik’s Hill Fort) (two kilometers south of Veliky Novgorod’s city center) is an ancient Rus hill fort and archaeological site and the original 9th century settlement of Veliky Novgorod.. Also known as Rurikovo Gorodische, and in Scandinavian sources as Holmgård, it is located across from Yuriev Monastery where the Volkhov River flows out of Lake Ilmen. Part of the Novgorod UNESCO World Heritage Site, it includes the original residence of the princes of Novgorod.

Rurikovo Settlement dates to the Viking Age and was situated at the source of the Volkov River, guarding the trade route “From the Varangians to the Greeks”. The settlement is a ruin now. But from the observation deck located nearby, you can enjoy beautiful views of the ruins and see both the Yuriev Monastery and the Kremlin. Archeological excavations done near the fortress, its dwellings, and utility structures provide prove that Rurik's Hill Fort dates to 9th-10th centuries (The city of Novgorod was founded in the late 10th-early 11th centuries). In the center of the hill fort are the ruins of the Cathedral of the Annunciation erected by the Prince Mstislav the Great in 1103 and then reconstructed in the 14th century. The Hill Fort was used by rulers from the Novgorod area until the age of Ivan the Terrible. The area can be explored on foot or by bike or from a boat trip along the Volkhov River to Lake Ilmen

Tesov Narrow Gauge Railway (65 kilometers from Veliky Novgorod in the village of Tesovo-Netylsky) offers rides. In the summer you can ride in a special railway carriage. In the winter you can ride in a special warmed up passenger car. The cost of the tour for adults is 700 rubles, for children under 12 years a ticket is 400 rubles. Children under 6 years are admitted for free. Excursions are held all year round. A nice bonus is tea drinking. Adults can take a class on driving the locomotive.

Museum “Slavic Village of the 10th Century” (in the village of Lyubytino, 120 kilometers east of Veliky Novgorod) is a small settlement with copies of traditional Slavic housing and information on the history, culture and beliefs of the ancient Slavs. The bus journey from Veliky Novgorod to Lyubytino takes about three hours and costs 550 rubles. Since most often the bus leaves at 6:50pm you will need to stop for the night in Lyubytino. At the recreation center of “ Lyubytino Khutor” (Lyubytinsky district, Bor village, 129). You can take a bath, rent a bike or go horse riding. Rooms go for 2500 rubles a night.

St. George (Yureiev) Monastery

St. George Monastery (just south of Novgorod) is a function careworn 12th-century monastery also known as Yureiev Monastery. Founded by Prince Yaroslav of Kiev on the southern reaches of Veliky Novgorod., it situated on the Volkhov river, near Lake Ilmen. The Cathedral of St. George has been largely reconstructed. Many other buildings date back to the 19th century. It is set in a beautiful location among swamps and fields.

There is a legend regarding the year in which St. George's monastery was founded, 1030. Following a victory over the a group of Chuds (local Finnic peoples), prince Yaroslav the Wise founded the city of Yuriev (now: Tartu, Estonia) and constructed churches in Novgorod and Kiev in honor of George (Yury) the Victorious, his patron saint. The St. George's Cathedral in Novgorod was built on the route from the city to the countryside residence of the prince in the village of Rakomo on the shore of Lake Ilmen. Near the cathedral a monastery of the same name was founded.

The earliest documented data about St. George's Monastery is dated 1119, when prince Vsevolod Mstislavovich founded “a stone church named after George and built by a master by the name of Petr.” St. George's Cathedral, together with the Church of the Annunciation constructed opposite to it in the fortress in 1103, formed a kind of propylaeum through which the people entered the city. The importance of St. George's Cathedral was stressed by the fact that the prince's chronicles were written in it and the cathedral itself was used as the burial vault of Novgorod princes. The mother and brother of Alexander Nevsky, Dmitry Shemyak, among other historical figures, are buried here.

The cathedral was painted in the 12th century. In 1902, the old paintings were restored (actually, re-painted). The original frescoes were preserved in the window jambs and in the upper part of the stair tower, where a small church was arranged back in ancient times. Ninety-three steps lead to them.

St. George's Monastery was one of the largest property owners in Novgorod. Its lands were situated in different places: from the Lovat river head up to Onega, and from Shelon up to Sestrinsky camp in Volokalamsk district near Moscow. The monks had their own granary in the Novgorod Kremlin and their own stands at the market. Even at the end of the 17th century, when some of the monastery's possessions were confiscated, it still owned 15 small monasteries, thousands of peasants, wide agricultural lands, fisheries, trade shops, and salt works granted by the grand ducal and patriarchal letters. The second rise of St. George's Monastery was in the first half of the 19th century, when countess A.A. Orlova-Chesmenskaya, the goddaughter of abbot Photius, sponsored repairs in the old buildings and funded the construction of new ones.

Even today, St. George's Monastery seems grand, despite the fact that it is not yet completely restored. It includes a 52-meter-high bell tower and five buildings: eastern (with prison cells), southern (with the Church of Our Lady of the Burning Bush), Archimandrite's (with the Cathedral of Our Saviour, under which both Archbishop Fotiy and Countess Orlova-Chesmenskaya are buried), northern and the Cathedral of the Rising of the Cross (1823). Its five sky-blue domes with shiny golden stars attract attention from afar. The cathedral is squat, a bit too heavy, but convenient for services.

In the 19th to the beginning of the 20th century, the monastery had a wonderful garden and flower beds, from which the roads led to Orlov's country house and to the house of A. A. Orlova-Chesmenskaya and to Novgorod. Willows were planted along the roads. These 150 years old trees remain to this day.

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior on Nereditsa Hill, 1198

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior (3 kilometers to south of Novgorod near the Gorodische) was built in 1198 by Novgorodian Prince Yaroslav Vladimirovich near Prince's residence and was dedicated to his sons” memory. The year after the church was built it was decorated with frescoes. The painter of the murals could be the well-known artist Olisey Grechin. The cloister was founded where Novgorodian Prince Afanasiy Danilovich, a grandson of Alexander Nevsky, took monastic vows in 1322, before his death, and was buried.

The Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior on Nereditsa Hill was rebuilt several times. In 1903-1904 the restoration work (the first truly scientific restoration in Russia) gave the church its original appearance back. The church frescoes are not only famous in Russia but also in Europe. Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior was badly damaged during World War II. Only about 50 percent of the building and 15 percent of painting remained intact. Restoration works began in 1944 and the church was restored in 1956-1958.

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior on Nereditsa Hill is on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. The restoration of the frescoes is still being carried out. The expressive fragments of “The Day of Judgment” and images of the saints and martyrs in sacristy are historical and cultural treasures.

Vitoslavlitsy Museum of Wooden Architecture

Vitoslavlitsy Museum of Wooden Architecture (in the village of Vitoslavlitsy, four kilometers from Veliky Novgorod). is an open-air museum of wooden architecture with some of the oldest wooden architectural monuments in Russia, including residential buildings, craft workshops churches, huts, chapels and a mill from the 16th to 19th centuries.

A village existed on the site from the beginning of the 12th century to the 18th century. Later it was the site of the Semevskiy noble estate, bought by A. A. Orlova-Chesmenskaya. Of the old manor, a two-story house still remains and a one-story wing, as well as some parts of the manor park.

Many beautiful old wooden churches and peasant houses were relocated here from around Novgorod region. The museum was established in 1964, when the first exhibit — the Church of Assumption of the Mother of God, dated 1595 — arrived from Kuritsko village. Today the collection at Vitoslavlitsy a total of 34 buildings, including some of Russia’s best preserved examples of folk wooden architecture, spread over an area of 33.4 hectares.

Some of the peasant houses, rural chapels, and churches have exhibits in them. The Dobrovolsky double house contains exhibitions titled “The Arrival of the Badger” and “Wool Milling Craft”. The museum and the monastery also houses the work of Alexander Grekov, a Russian man who reassembled many frescoes in buildings damaged in World War II. He hunted down pieces of plaster scattered in ruined buildings and on hillsides and assembling them like a giant jigsaw puzzle and glued them altogether.

Every year, the Vitoslavlitsy Museum hosts folklore and crafts festivals, ethnographic programs, Christmas festivities, and the International Festival of Chimes. Costumed dancers and singers perform shows. Tickets: 170 rubles for adult, 120 rubles for students over 16;,children under 16 are free of charge. Some workshops require an additional admission fee.

Staraya Russa: Where Dostoyevsky wrote the Brother Karamazov

Staraya Russa (opposite side of Lake Ilmen from Veliky Novgorod) is an old town that began as a Viking trading posts and was later used by Dostoyevsky as retreat. The riverside log cabin used by Dostoyevsky to write the “Brother Karamazov”, “The Possessed” and “The Adolescent” is now a museum. A number of family photos, books and possessions are on display. There is also a 12th-century church and a 17th-century church in Staraya Russa, which can be reached by bus or boat in two hours from Novgorod.

The Memorial Museum FM Dostoevsky in Staraya Russa opened May 4, 1981. The great Russian writer arrived to Staraya Russa in 1872 and lived there with his family for eight years. For him, the town was a place of relaxation and creativity. The house is on the quiet shores of Pererytitsy. The house-museum recreates a 19th century living situation. Some of the furniture, utensils and household items belonged to Dostoevsky’s family. Others date to the time he lived in the house. Many of the belongings, documents and books are authentic, belonging to the writer and his family.

The first floor serves as the museum. The porch, six rooms on the second floor, front, the living room, the writer study, dining room, and Anna's children tooms have all been restored in the form in which they were in Dostoevsky’s time. Residents of Staraya Russa were inspirations for some characters of Dostoevsky’s novels and the city itself served as model for some of the settings. Dostoevsky also wrote famous "Pushkin speech" while living on the house.

In 1918 Dostoevsky House was nationalized and its contained various institutions. After the liberation of Staraya Russa from Nazi German occupation the house was one of the few surviving wooden buildings. In 1969, the first Dostoevsky exhibition was set up in two rooms. After major restoration in 2000-2001, the museum was expanded and has welcomed many visitors since then.

Valdai National Park

Valdai National Park (150 kilometers southeast Veliky Novgorod) is a beautiful park comprised mainly of forests and lakes. There are many hiking trails and places to enjoy boating. The park organizes nature walks and other outings. Visitors can stay in tents or rent a guest houses for around 2500 rubles (US$40) a day.

Valdaisky National Park was established in 1990, to preserve the unique forests and lakes of the Valdai hills. Located in the Okulovsky, Valdaisky, and Demyansky districts of Novgorodskaya oblast, park covers is 158.4 square kilometers. In 2004, the park received the status of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Apart from the natural landmarks, the park has plenty of attractions of historical and cultural interest, including 18 neolithic dwelling sites and the burial mounds from the 6th-9th centuries. Every year the park is visited by up to 60,000 people. The tourists are attracted primarily by the lakes, the largest of which are Valdaiskoe, Velye, Polnovsky ples of Lake Seliger, and Borovno. Valdaisky Park offers more than 100 recreational sites where one can set up a tent and camp.

The visitor's center of the National Park is located on the Obraztsova mountain and offers a great view on the clear waters of Valdai Lake. Many events are organized in Valdaisky every year. In the summer, the Biankovskie readings take place on Borovno Lake. Then there is Fisherman's Day. Artists of all sorts congregate for the Nord Vest Festival of Amateur Artists. On July 9, for the holiday of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God, a Cross procession and consecration of waters take place at the Tekunok water source near Novotroitsa village. In the beginning of October, the Kalevala Festival is organized on Lake Uzhin.

Seliger Lake

Lake Seliger (320 kilometers northwest of Moscow) is located near the headwaters of the Volga. It is a beautiful place, dotted with islands and surrounded by forests with pines and white-barked birches. There are plenty of opportunities for hiking, camping, fishing, canoeing and hunting. You can take a boat ride to an island with a monastery turned into a labor camp in the Stalin era. Website: region.visitnovgorod.ru

Located in the Tver and Novgorod Oblasts and of glacial origin, Seliger Lake covers a total area of 260 square kilometers and has about 160 islands covering 38 square kilometers. The largest island is Khachin. It covers an area of 30 square kilometers and has ten lakes of its own. The water is fresh and generally clean. Among the 30 species of fish that live in Seliger are bream, pike, burbot, pike perch and ide.

The deepest part of the lake is 24 meters. The irregular coastline of 589 kilometers long and consists of 24 distinct stretches, broken up by rivers and channels. A total of 110 rivers and tributaries flow into the lake, the largest of which are the Krapivenka, Soroga and Seremukha. Only one river flows out of it — the Selizharovka. One of the largest stretches of Seliger is the Polnovsky stretch.

The first mention of Lake Seliger is in the 12th century. At that time the village of Polnovo on Seliger was named as a a settlement on the ancient trade route between Volga and Novgorod. On the shores of the lake are numerous archeological sights, the oldest of which date back to the 3rd-2nd centuries B.C. On the eastern and western shores of the Polnovsky stretch, there are graveyards, mounds and hills from the 9th-15th centuries.

Nilova Hermitage

Nilo-Stolbensky Hermitage (on Stolbny Island on Seliger Lake, 10 kilometers to the north of the town of Ostashkovo) is a Russian Orthodox monastery. Also known as Nilova Hermitage, its has served over the years as a monastery, POW camp, juvenile criminal colony, hospital, nursing home and holiday camp. Now it is under the control of the Russian Orthodox Church.

The monastery dates back to 1528 when a hermit monk, Venerable Nil, moved from near Rzhev to Stolbny Island. During the first year, he lived in a dug-out hut. Later he built a cell and a prayer chapel. During his time there he endured fires, floods, bandits and animal attacks. However, Nil never gave up or moved away, overcoming adversity with prayer and faith and is said to have healed the sick. There is a legend that the Venerable Nil made a vow to never lie down. He slept standing up, keeping himself upright with ropes and hooks driven into a wall. Venerable Nil lived on the island for 27 years until his death in 1555. Before he died he wished that a monastery be built in that spot he lived and that wish was ultimately fulfilled.

The construction of the Epiphany Cathedral of the monastery began in 1767, and was finished in 1833. But many monks were already living there at that time. The monastery flourished in the 17th-19th centuries. In the early 20th century, the number of permanently residing monks stood at 1,000. After the Revolution of 1917, the cloister was sacked. Despite thing the monastery continued to exist until 1927. In the Soviet era is when it served as a POW camp, juvenile criminal colony, hospital, nursing home and holiday camp. It was returned to the church only in 1990.

There are two ways to reach Nilova Hermitage: by tourist boat across the Seliger Lake from Ostashkov, or by car. The monastery and other sights of Stolbny Island are open to visitors every day. You can view the cloister of the monastery and climb the bell tower of the Epiphany Cathedral to see breathtaking sights of Seliger Lake. Venerable Nil’s relics are considered holy and monastery attracts many pilgrims. Entrance to the territory is free. Visitor are advised to dress conservatively. Women are expected to wear long skirts and cover their heads. Men should not wear hats. There is a hotel in the monastery. Homestays are guest house are available on nearby Svetlitsa peninsula. Local shops sells honey, bread, dairy products and tea. For more information check the Tourist Portal of Tver Oblast: www.welcometver.ru

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Federal Agency for Tourism of the Russian Federation (official Russia tourism website russiatourism.ru ), Russian government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Yomiuri Shimbun and various books and other publications.

Updated in September 2020

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Take a walk through the most ancient Kremlin in Russia

The Novgorod Kremlin, which is also called ‘Detinets’, is located on the left bank of the Volkhov River. The first fortified settlement was set here during the reign of prince Vladimir Yaroslavich, the son of Yaroslav the Wise. During these times, all the state, public and religious life of Novgorod was concentrated here. It was the place where people kept chronicles and copied the texts of books. The Novgorod Kremlin, the most ancient one in Russia, was founded here in the 15th century.

St. Sophia Cathedral (11th century), The Millennium Of Russia Monument, Episcopal Chamber (15th century) and the main exhibition of The State Novgorod Museum-reservation located in a public office building of the 18th century are all situated in the Novgorod Kremlin. The exhibition will tell you about the whole Novgorod history from ancient times to the present day. There are also restoration workshops, a children’s center, a library and a philharmonic inside the Kremlin walls.

Send a letter with the State Novgorod Museum-reservation stamp

While visiting the main building of the Novgorod Kremlin museum, you’ll see a small bureau near the souvenir area. Two more bureaus like that can be found in the Fine Arts Museum and the Museum information centre. This is the Museum Post, the joint project of the State Novgorod Museum-reservation and Russian Post.

The tradition to exchange letters (at that time written on birch bark sheets) dates back to the 11th century so it’s hardly surprising that such a project appeared here. The bureaus are desks and mailboxes at the same time, so you can send your friends a postcard with a view of Novgorod right from the museum.

Find the famous Russian poet Alexander Pushkin among the figures of The Millennium Of Russia Monument

In 1862, 1000 years after the Varangians were called to Russia, a monument dedicated to this event was launched in Novgorod. To tell the story of Russia’s one thousand years, the sculptor used 129 bronze figures: from state and military leaders to artists and poets.

One of figures portrays Afanasy Ordin-Nashchokin, a politician and reformer who was responsible for Russia’s diplomatic relations in the middle of the 17th century. He is believed to be the father of international and regular mail in Russia. He was also the person who came up with the idea of the first Russian Post official emblem — a post horn and a double-headed eagle.

Cross the Msta River over the first arch bridge in Russia

The steel bridge in Borovichi town that connects two banks of the Msta river was built at the beginning of the 20th century. The project of the bridge was created by Nikolay Belelyubsky, engineer and professor of St. Petersburg State Transport University. This is the first arch bridge in Russia.

In 1995, it was included in the national cultural heritage register. More than 100 bridges across Russia were developed by Belelyubsky, but only this one is named after him.

Cast a virtual bell

When in the Novgorod region, you’ll definitely hear bells ring and learn about the Novgorod Veche Bell. During the siege of the city, tsar Ivan III ordered to remove this bell from the bell tower and send it to Moscow. Legend says that the bell didn’t accept his fate, fell to the ground near the border of the Novgorod region and broke to pieces against the stones.

In the biggest Museum Bell Centre in Russia located in the Valday town, you can see bells from across the world and learn why Novgorod bells are unique. The museum’s collection represents bells from different countries and ages, some of them dating back to the 3rd century BC. You’ll learn about the history of casting and modern bell-making technologies and also play games on a touch table. For example, harness virtual ‘troika’ (three) horses with bells or cast a virtual bell.

Spot the pigeon on the cross of St. Sophia Cathedral

St. Sophia Cathedral was built in Novrogod between 1045 and 1050 by Kievan and Byzantine masters. It was conceived as the main cathedral of the city, and during its first years it was the only stone building in Novgorod. So where does the pigeon on the cross of the cathedral’s biggest dome come from?

Legend says that while tsar Ivan the Terrible and his Oprichniki were cruelly killing peaceful city folk in 1570, a pigeon suddenly sat down to the cross of the city’s main cathedral. It looked down, saw the massacre, and was literally petrified with horror. Since then the pigeon has been considered the defender of the city. People believe that as soon as the pigeon flies away from the cross, Novgorod will come to an end.

Visit a monastery, that was founded by Patriarch Nikon

The Valday Iver Monastery is situated on the island in the middle of the Valday lake. It is considered to be one of the most important and picturesque orthodox shrines.

The monastery was founded in 1653 by the initiative of Nikon who had just been elected Patriarch. Nikon wanted the monastery to look like the Iviron Monastery on Mount Athos, including the architectural style and monk’s clothes. Legend says that Nikon saw the spot for the monastery in a dream.

Check out Fyodor Dostoevsky’s country house

Fyodor Dostoevsky, a famous Russian writer, first visited Staraya Russa town in 1872 during a summer trip with his family. They liked it so much that the next year they rented a house near the Pererytitsa River’s embankment and spent every summer here ever since.

Dostoevsky loved this house, called it ‘his nest’ and considered it the perfect place to work and to be alone. In Staraya Russa he wrote his novels ‘The Adolescent’, ‘The Brothers Karamazov’ and ‘Demons’. Today, this place is a museum where you can explore what Dostoevsky’s house looked like and see his family’s personal belongings, photos and letters.

Visit an authentic Russian ‘izba’ (wooden house)

If you want to really enjoy the atmosphere of the old Novgorod, you should come to the Vitoslavlitsy Museum of folk wooden architecture that is located on the Myachino lake not far away from Veliky Novgorod. In this open-air museum you’ll see the best examples of Russian wooden architecture, including authentic old ‘izbas’ (wooden houses), rural chapels and churches.

During the year, the museum hosts fairs of crafts and folklore, christmastides, and even an international bell ringing festival.

Learn what Brick Gothic looks like

The Episcopal Chamber of the Novgorod Kremlin is the only non-religious German Gothic building of the 15th century preserved in Russia. You can have a good look at the facets of the gothic cross-domed vaults inside the chamber. This is why this building is also called ‘Faceted Chamber’ or ‘Chamber of Facets’.

The chamber was part of Vladychny Dvor, the place where all important city events took place: court hearings, gatherings of the Council of Lords of the Novgorod Republic, ambassador’s receptions and feasts. The seals of the city’s lords were kept here. The decree of tsar Ivan III on merging the Novgorod Republic with the Moscow State was first announced in 1478 in Episcopal Chamber. This is when the name of the new state, Russia, was first pronounced.

See the murals by Theophanes the Greek

The Byzantine Empire had a huge impact on the development of the Russian culture. Many works of art and architecture in ancient Russia were created by Byzantine artists and masters. Theophanes the Greek was one of them. He was born in Byzantine and created icons and murals in Constantinople and Caffa (modern Feodosia). After that he moved to Novgorod where he was commissioned to paint the walls of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior on Ilyina Street. You can enjoy his unique and expressive style if you look at the murals inside the dome of the church and the Trinity side chapel.

The most recognizable and the only monumental work of Theophanes the Greek that is preserved today is the chest-high portrait of the Savior the Almighty in the dome of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior.

Take a photo with an ancient Novgorod citizen who is learning how to read and write

In 1951, a letter written on birch bark dating back to the 14–15th centuries was found in Veliky Novgorod. Many decades later, in 2019, a sculpture designed by Novgorod artist and sculptor Sergey Gaev appeared on this exact site.

The sculpture portrays an 8–year old boy sitting on a stool and holding a piece of birch bark. At this age children in Novgorod started to learn how to read and write. During archaeological excavations in Novgorod, scientists often found ancient handwriting practice books and children’s drawings on birch bark sheets.

Feel like an ancient viking or prince Rurik’s guest

Novgorod is one of the waypoints of the famous trade route from the Varangians to the Greeks. The route passed through the Volkhov river. In the 9–10th centuries there was a fortified settlement of the Viking Age here.

Some scientists believe that Novgorod is named after this area which was called ‘Stary Gorod’ (‘Old City’) at that time. Some historians and archeologists consider this place to be the residence of Prince Rurik who was asked to rule the city in 862. That’s why this ancient settlement is called ‘Rurikovo Gorodische’ (‘Ruruk’s Old City’).

Learn more about the Soviet modernist architecture

On the bank of the Volkhov river near the Novgorod Kremlin, there is an incredible building that looks like a spaceship and contrasts strongly with the ancient buildings of the city.

This is the Fyodor Dostoevsky Theater of Dramatic Art that was built in 1987. It is one of the most striking examples of the Soviet modernist architecture. The theater was built for 10 years according to the project of architect Vladimir Somov.

See what an everyday life of Old Believers looks like

The Krestsy town in the Novgorod region has always been considered to be the center of the Novgorod Old Belief community, and it still is. Before the Soviet revolution there were three Old Believers churches here.

The Lyakova village, which is located not far from the town, used to be inhabited completely by Old Believers. You can learn more about their lifestyle in the local interactive museum. You’ll be introduced to Old Believers’ traditional crafts and ceremonies, drink tea with healing herbs and learn how to chop wood and use an old spinning wheel.

Buy a traditional embroidered tablecloth

A unique embroidery style that is now famous all over the world was born in the Staroye Rakhino village in the Novgorod province. By the middle of the 19th century, it had become a folk craft. Since then, linen tablecloths, towels and clothing items decorated with unusual ornaments have been popular not only among the locals, but also travellers.

In 1929, the first cooperative partnership of embroidery masters was created in Kresttsy. Later it turned into a factory that still operates today. The factory has a museum where embroidery traditions are preserved and new ornaments and technologies are created.

Find yourself in the Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, Staraya Russa town could be called ‘the salt cellar of Russia’. That’s because salt making was the main trade here up to the 19th century. A few years ago, the old craft was brought back to life, and construction of salt works began. Later, an interactive museum was launched based on the results of archaeological findings.

This museum recreates a typical medieval manor of Staraya Russa of the 12th century with living rooms, a bathhouse, workshops, a livestock pen and traditional peasant household items. In this museum, you can also buy salt which is made in the same way as 1000 years ago.

See the place where Suvorov started his Italian campaign

Alexander Suvorov’s manor in the Konchanskoe village, which has now become the museum of the great commander, was originally the place of his exile. Suvovor openly disagreed with the reform of Russian’s army based on the Prussian model, and Emperor Paul the First didn’t appreciate such behaviour. He first fired Suvorov and then sent him away to his family estate.

However, the exile lasted for only two years. The great commander started the military campaign straight from his house in the Konchanskoe. During this legendary expedition, he crossed the Alps and defeated the French army.

Become a real hiker

If you dream of having a hike in the Novgorod region, but at the same time you are afraid that a tourist’s life may be too hard, you should try the Big Valday trail. This is a five-day 59-kilometer walking route. Its central part goes right through the Valday National Park’s territory.

You won’t have to cope with difficulties and inconveniences of camping life here. The route is marked with signs, and there are camping sites where you can find everything you need for an overnight stay from shelters and places for a fire to toilets. The trail finishes at the Dunayevshchina village where you can take a bus back to Valday. To take the trail, you have to fill out a special form and register on the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Russian Federation website.

Russian Post has launched a limited series of products dedicated to the cultural heritage of the Novgorod region.

In autumn 2020, Russian Post announced an open contest to create the design for its limited series dedicated to Novgorod region. The project was supported by the Government of the Novgorod region, ‘Russ Novgorodskaya’ (Novgorod Russia) project, the State Novgorod Museum-reservation and Yandex.

Stamps and envelopes are traditionally used to spread information about historic dates and figures and famous landmarks. Now we can also use parcel boxes, packaging tape and postcards. The limited series products will travel around the world, introducing the most popular Russian attractions to six million Russian Post clients daily.

The participants were to create the design for the limited series featuring three iconic attractions of the Novgorod region, the Novgorod Kremlin, the Millennium Of Russia Monument and the Belelyubsky Bridge in Borovichi. Moscow designers and graduates of the Higher School of Economics’ Art and Design School Alena Akmatova and Svetlana Ilyushina won the contest. Their project was chosen via an open vote and by the expert jury.

Viking 54 | Boat Review

• By Peter Frederiksen
• Updated: January 11, 2021

All new Vikings benefit from previous models, due mostly in part to the company’s mantra to build a better boat every day, as well as a substantial workforce in its design, manufacturing and fishing teams. Owner and dealer feedback ­contribute the input necessary to ­accumulate all the knowledge that adds up, checking every box for the boat’s purpose. This commitment is easily explained by company president Pat Healey: “We are not smarter; we just work harder at getting the job done right.” From bow to stern, the fruits of collaborated effort are both clear and obvious.

Textbook examples of smart design and function, the 54′s cockpit offers 154 square feet in place to fish: flush-mounted rod holders, a transom door with lift gate, and rounded coaming. A subtle crown in the transom easily pushes away the wash when backing up at 7 knots.

Hull No. 1 has been set up for South Florida’s winter sailfish season and serves as an HMY Yacht Sales’ demo boat, with captain and company sales associate Trey Claus at the helm. This boat is designed to carry hundreds of frisky live baits. Along with the pressurized transom livewell and a pair of integral ports for a dual GlassTech livewell system, additional plumbing supplies two more on-deck livewells that drain through threaded scuppers at the transom corners. As part of the boat’s custom touches, Claus added a few inches to the rocket launcher’s pedestal to accommodate the height of his anglers. Flanking the rocket launcher is a full-size fish box and storage compartments that double as a hopper for the Dometic ice chipper. A lazarette hatch lifts to access the Seakeeper 9 gyrostabilizer, plumbing, steering and other systems. And built into the mezzanine deck are bait freezers, three chiller boxes, a tackle locker and engine-room access.

Engine Room

As with any Viking, ­attention to detail is a hallmark, affording 5 feet, 8 inches of headroom in the entryway and continues to the front of the MAN V-12 CRM 1,550 hp diesel engines. The absence of clutter is apparent, even with the air-conditioning and watermaker pumps that are located inboard of each engine. Outboard you’ll find the batteries ­enveloped in fiberglass boxes, climate-control ­systems, steering pump, ASEA power transformers, and a Bluewater Legend desalinator; Delta-T ventilation and fire-suppression units are located on the hullsides. The freshwater manifold system, forward bilge and fuel-transfer pumps are hatch-protected forward of the engines.

The optional three-­fuel-tank configuration was engineered to allow the ­installation of a Furuno ­full-circle scanning-sonar tube. The generator sits aft of the port engine, with room to add a second behind the starboard main engine. Snow White Awlgrip helps illuminate the bright engine room, and in true Viking fashion, chafing gear for hoses and electrical runs is provided, and labeled fittings and ­equipment are abundant.

Four interior wood options are available—teak or walnut, in gloss or satin finishes—with this 54 being dressed in stunning ­high-gloss walnut. The forward stateroom arrangement can ­accommodate either a queen berth as standard, or with crossover berths. In the portside master, a queen bed with lift-up ­storage is flanked by nightstands and ­credenzas, as well as a maple-lined hanging locker. The en suite head offers engineered stone counters and a notably large fiberglass shower stall with a glass door.

Upper and lower berths outfit the starboard stateroom, with the upper berth measuring a sizable 33 inches wide. The lower berth is narrower at 27 inches, but both extend to 6 feet, 3 inches. A second head separates the starboard stateroom from the forward stateroom—each with private access, in addition to a companionway entrance for day use.

Watch: Get to know Viking Yachts president Pat Healey in our interview .

Three distinct ­gathering areas in the salon are equally inviting, in part due to the boat’s nearly 18-foot beam. The L-shaped sofa to port is accented with a high-low Mappa burl cocktail table. The portside peninsula galley is topped with engineered stone, and an offset overhang accommodates a pair of upholstered bar stools.

Amtico custom vinyl flooring, Sub-Zero undercounter refrigerator/freezer units, a cooktop, microwave/convection oven and plenty of storage meld convenience, comfort and practicality for offshore life.

Flybridge and Tower

This 54-footer sports a number of changes to its familiar center-console-style helm station. In lieu of being recessed behind lift-up acrylic panels, Atlantic Marine Electronics installed a pair of Garmin 8622 multifunction displays flush-mounted in a raised helm. Below the MFDs, a bank of stainless-steel Bocatech solid-state, resettable push-button waterproof switches activates the ship’s systems at the touch of a finger—from ignitions to bilge pumps to fuel transfer. On either side of the teak helm pod, fiberglass compartments with split lids house other assorted controls. A recess in the fiberglass hardtop accommodates the MAN instrumentation, autopilot and other navigation tools. A pair of teaser reels are also recessed in the hardtop, complete with remote ­controls for the tower.

Helm visibility is superb, with lounges on each side; a drink-box cooler, additional forward seating, and a pair of Release Marine helm chairs also adorn the bridge.

The Palm Beach Towers 6-foot-gap tuna tower in brushed aluminum is outfitted with a 63-inch control box to house the electronics, steering and engine controls. An upgraded forward X-brace, side diagonals, and hardtop brace add the contour and style to complement the 54′s sleek profile.

Performance and Construction

The Viking 54 is offered standard with two MAN V-12 1400 CRMs or, as in this test boat, optional MAN V-12 1550 CRMs. A strong torque curve is apparent; we saw 42 knots on a wide-open-throttle run at 2,330 rpm, with the MANs drinking 160 gph. At 1,830 rpm, the boat slides along at 31.5 knots, and an additional 50 turns pushes her to 32.6 knots.

The wake slices paths of clean water for good bait presentation, and the hull and running surface are designed using a series of computational fluid dynamic programs to run virtual sea trials that help determine the best performance and most effective use of power and trim. The hull structure is a composite of coring materials and fiberglass with vinylester resin infusion. Reinforced with structural composite bulkheads and integrated fiberglass fuel, water and waste tankage, the engineering consistencies deliver a tournament contender in true Viking style—which is hardly a surprise.

Viking Yachts 54 Specs

• Beam: 17′8″
• Draft: 4′11″
• Displ: 75,026 lb.
• Fuel: 1,535 gal. (opt.)
• Water: 198 gal.
• Power: Twin MAN V12 1550 CRM
• Gear/Ratio: ZF/2.250:1
• Propellers: VEEM 5-blade, Interceptor
• Hull Color: Haze Gray Gelcoat
• Climate Control: Dometic

• More: Boat Reviews , Boats , Viking Yachts

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